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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/18/2018 in all areas

  1. Casper..........when I found out how expensive 41 Plymouth clocks were, a NOS one was listed on ebay at over $700 I took a real clean scan of it from the net, resized it to suit the hole in the dash and stuck the pic behind a piece of perspex.....I then had a clock that was 100% accurate at least twice daily.............although its accuracy was debatable for the rest of the time, but it looked good...........sorry.......I'll go back in my corner now.......lol........andyd
    2 points
  2. Saturday will be the 2018 HAMB Drags at MoKan Dragway. Hoping to see Bob BobT-47P15 at the host hotel tomorrow evening. Made the drive up from Dallas to Joplin today in the 37 coupe with my trusty Co-Pilot who will visit with my mom while I am running around doing car stuff. Unfortunately I did not get my AC back together before the trip so we had to brave the heat. The roll out windshield made it bearable, but greatly elevated the volume. Will share photos over the next couple of days.
    1 point
  3. Got back from being overseas for over a couple of weeks and needed to stock up with fresh food. Went out to the garage and the 2017 was dead (-1 points). Hopped in the '33 Plymouth, cranked it on over and it fired up in a couple of seconds so I drove it to the market (+1 points). New car has a ton of electronics that are always on and being a hybrid the 12 "aux" battery is quite small so it apparently did not have enough capacity to last without the car being started in a couple of weeks. I guess I need to put a trickle charger on it if I'm not going to be driving it for a while.
    1 point
  4. I rebuilt a Mopar model 802 for my 48 Plymouth, which appears to be a similar radio. I have a copy of the service documents, I had to replace the paper and electrolytic capacitors. I also replaced the mechanical vibrator with an electronic one. Radio works well, but the darn thing only gets old AM stations. Bill
    1 point
  5. He's right. I also recommend you start fixing stuff as you take it apart. This includes priming and making ready for paint and sending your chrome off to the chrome shop a year before you need it. That way there is no danger of having a completely disassembled car with hundreds of random parts laying around that need to be redone,and getting overwhelmed. For example,pull the front clip and get it all blasted,repaired,and ready for a final scuff and wipe down before the color goes on. This is a good time to make an inventory of all the crhome you are going to be sending off to the chrome shop,along with photos of it, You can also redo the headlight buckets,blast and paint the bumper braces,etc,etc,etc. When you get all that done,pull the engine and trans,and start working on the firewall,floors,and doors. Don't start on something else until you have finished repairing and prepping what you have already pulled. Make notes of what you need to buy as you pull it apart and work on it. Include little stuff like new gaskets for the parking lights,new parking light lenses,etc,etc,etc. Put the bolts you pull from the fenders in bags with seals and mark them as being from the front fenders,bumper brackes,hood hinges,radiator,etc,etc,etc. You will be glad you did later.
    1 point
  6. I think that when you replace the entire drivetrain, including converting from front wheel drive to rear wheel drive, you can't really call it a Prius anymore.
    1 point
  7. Put an inline fuse in the power feed. I would start with 15 amps.
    1 point
  8. Some added info about the 1953 trucks... The 1953 trucks have the hooked together upper and lower seat frame assembly. This style does not permit moving just the lower cushion forward or backwards on the two positioning pins on the lower frame. The park lamp bezels on the 1953 trucks are chrome. The hub caps shown on the OP's truck look to be 1951-52 caps. There is the frame serial number stamped on the LF frame rail right behind the bumper towards the front spring hanger too. All this to help the owner know more about his truck and some tech info.
    1 point
  9. There’s a 51 Plymouth Suburban right beside it. I’m probably going to buy both as a package deal.
    1 point
  10. Look on the passenger side of the trans mission main 3 spd. case or on the OD housing for a cast in R-10-G for Mopar OD's from this area that do fit your car. Be aware that the tailshaft on the trans can be either long or short depending on if it was used in fluid drives or standard 3 spd. only. If the over-all length of the trans (mounting face to tailshaft is the same). as your current trans . If the # is what is above matches and overall trans length is the same ---BUY IT!! ? DJ
    1 point
  11. What a great read. I really enjoyed following your build and the attention to detail. I only wish I had a shop, like yours, near me. Great job and thanks for sharing. David M
    1 point
  12. just be aware the 49-52 steel wagons have a shorter wheelbase so swapping the OD involves driveshaft mods in those models.
    1 point
  13. I once had this bolt holding the spring pack together shear off. This allowed the axle to shift on the spring perch and the car began to dog track destroying the rear shock.
    1 point
  14. bolt it up and let the big dog eat...I would however suggest to anyone that has disturbed a drivetrain and reinstalling to pay close attention the condition of the rear shackle bushing as tend to get beaten out of shape and cause the rear axle to bit a bit out of kilter that could show as a vibration or 'shuddering' on take off.
    1 point
  15. it grows overnight. until you have the car completly apart you will find more every time you remove something. I can't describe the feeling you get when the rust removal is over and the painting begins.
    1 point
  16. My 2004 Prius died when a trash truck backed into it: The repair cost was more than the 14 year old 200+K mileage car was valued at. Got a 2017 Prius Prime. So far averaging about 84 MPG with it, current tank is over 110 MPG. And it qualifies for the car pool lane stickers which helps if/when I have to get somewhere on a freeway. I suspect feed and care of a horse would exceed the cost of a trickle charger, especially since I already have a trickle charger left over from a different application. Not sure the neighbors in this fairly densely developed beach town would appreciate a stable either.
    1 point
  17. I drove a 37 Plymouth for 30 years and was always impressed by the way it handled. It was all stock except I changed the differential ratio to 3.9 to 1 and used 15 inch wheels from an early 50s Plymouth. I traded it away to get a 35 PJ coupe no regrets but the PJ handles like a buckboard compared to the 37.
    1 point
  18. All done... Glad I did this before the trip. I got an early start this morning. Was out in the garage around 6:30. Got the steering box adjusted right away and was on to the manifold job by 8:00. I thought I was going to have a delay for a supply run. I wanted to grease the front suspension components before lowering it down, but my grease gun was empty. I dug out my second grease gun and it had just enough to grease the front end. Delay avoided... The manifold sway went fairly smoothly. I had 3 studs come out, so I had to drain the coolant. It was 3 with the conical nuts and cupped washers. It took a fair amount of heat to break the bond between the nuts and studs, but they finally loosened up and were reusable. The good part about that was that those areas were easier to clean up the old gasket material without having to work around the studs. A little sealer on the threads and it all went back together without any fuss. Had it running by 10:30. Got things cleaned up and backed it out of the garage for a test drive. Needed to run some errands anyway, including a stop at Fleet Farm for grease. Runs great. Steering is awesome now. Much easier to drive now. It smoked quite a bit at first until all of the gunk was burned out of the replacement manifold, but that cleared up fairly quickly. When I got back home I jacked up the rear and greased the rear suspension and driveline. All good to go now. A BIG thank you again to Todd for hooking me up with the manifold. The crack was worse than I expected. Red arrows are pointing at the ends. Wouldn’t have been long before it was a 2 piece manifold. All done... and retorqued after running it for a few minutes, and again after my errand run/test drive.
    1 point
  19. Got a couple hours in the garage tonight as my wife and mother were out and about, leaving me home alone. All cleaned up and ready to mount... once the paint cures. Saturday morning I want to adjust the free play in the steering box. Between that and a new drag link I’m hoping to remove all of the free play in the steering wheel. Then I can get the front end back on the ground and tackle the manifold change. If all goes well I’ll be test driving it by noon.
    1 point
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