Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/12/2018 in all areas

  1. We took old Betty for a tour around the monuments and special places of the battle of the Bulge where so many young guys fought (and died...)for our freedom. You see pictures of the Mardasson museum, Barriere Hinck, Bois Jacques with the foxholes, Bastogne barracks... hope you enjoy them; greetings from Belgium. (This was our first big trip from Flanders to Bastogne 200 miles in an ambient temperature of 35°C. The car ran fine, overheating problems gone thanks to a total flush of the engine and a new water distribution pipe. I have installed an electronic thermometer and it never exceeded 80°C, even when driving up the hills)I am happy....)
    3 points
  2. I wrenched my foot the other day. Hurt like heck....
    1 point
  3. 6v solenoids work fine on a 12v system. I've used several that way.
    1 point
  4. Assuming (I know, I know) it's wired correctly, the only logical explanation is a defective governor is grounding the circuit. that shifts the solenoid into overdrive even if it is below the governed speed. Of course, a defective, grounded wire before the gov can cause the same.
    1 point
  5. yI grew up with overdrives from th late 40's into the early 60's. My last car with an OD was a 60 Rambler American. I cannot recall an over drive failure ever and we drove them hard in mud, snow, and on every inpmagiable road then known. So my take is that if a problem exists, as stated above, it is electrical. Get a schmatic (google has a great one) and check it out.
    1 point
  6. additional information - Modified Wiring Diagram with Headlight Relays + Turn Signal
    1 point
  7. When you dive into it, start a thread in the "truck forum"..... I don't think as many guys check or look at this forum (" technical archive") or have a moderator move this one for you. (If you want) Theres 1.5ton ? of smarter guys out there.... hate to see you get stuck with just me, LOL
    1 point
  8. this is the smaller of the two common clips for Mopar...am thinking this is the item you are in need of...... https://www.ebay.com/itm/NORS-WINDSHIELD-WIPER-ADAPTER-CONNECTING-ARM-J-CLIPS-1935-1962-Ford-Mopar/372212945709?hash=item56a99ed32d%3Ag%3AVlYAAOSwcgNZBLV9&_sacat=0&_nkw=1949+plymouth+wiper+clip&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313
    1 point
  9. Well done! It warms my heart to meet a kindered spirit! As a vote of confidence, I'd like to tell you that I did the very same thing at fifteen. I hated modern ponton styling and stiff suspensions and step-down bucket seats, et c.. So I finally convinced my folks to let me spend my savings on a 1946 Plymouth Deluxe coupe. A bit rough, but nothing a willing hobbyist mechanic couldn't figure out. It has been my daily driver since I got my liscence in 2011 with splendid success and happiness that a modern car could never bring. I never intend to replace the car, as I see no reason trying to improve upon perfection. It's all stock, too - I even run bias ply tires (they look fantastic). I've done all sorts of work on it over the years, that is, driving an antique car regularly requires care, but like anything else worthwhile in life, it pays off. No matter how horrible my day or night has been, I can always count on a little joy the next time I have to drive somewhere. By all means, buy yourself a P-15!
    1 point
  10. A lot of us know exactly what your saying, I was at a show yesterday I was the only pilothouse, the other Dodge truck there was a Ratrod.... at least I was parked between two Plymouths
    1 point
  11. Thomba, I had a similar problem. I took a couple of hex-nuts of appropriate size, and drilled out the threaded hole to the needed size. As for the e-clips, I bought new ones, but the groove in the mechanism just wasn’t deep enough to securely retain them, so I put the arms into a drill-press-vise, and drilled a small hole cross-wise in the shafts, and used a spring clip with one end thru the hole. Altho’ not original—problem solved.
    1 point
  12. see if this will help...in the download section.....
    1 point
  13. put in a six volt abattery and you going to find the same condition...check your wiring for correct connection and or a shorted switch...stuck contacts...
    1 point
  14. Thank you. The metric speedometer suggests that your car was originally intended for sale in Europe. Interesting.
    1 point
  15. What did that old car ever do to anyone to deserve that?
    1 point
  16. I understood them to the point where starting in the 3rd grade my goal was to become a paratrooper. I even wore jump boots to elementary school. Joined the army on my 17th birthday after enlisting for a guaranteed assignment to jump school (airborne unassigned),and ended up serving 6 years in Special Forces before getting medievaced from VN while on my second tour there in 1969. No longer physically able to remain in a Special Forces or other airborne unit,I was assigned to the regular army as a babysitter (NCO) for young draftees who didn't want to be there and who spent more effort trying to avoid doing anything useful than they did actually doing anything. The regular army didn't like me any better than I liked them,so I took my discharge in 1970. It is a rare day that passes that I still don't miss being in SF,though. This is due entirely to the people I served with. Nobody had to be ordered to do anything. If someone saw something that needed to be done,they did it and didn't bitch about it. Best time of my life.
    1 point
  17. Very nice! I just bought a "new-to-me" truck. A 1998 Ram 2500 4x4 extra cab, long box Cummins 24V turbo diesel. I've certainly got some work to do before I post any pics. LOL. I need a tow/rescue vehicle!
    1 point
  18. Thank you for sharing this; I enjoyed your post. My uncle flew a bomber in the European theater in WWII.
    1 point
  19. Thanks for sharing. My dad was in the 7th infantry and my uncle was involved In the D-day landing at Omaha beech. I wished more people understood the meaning and importance of these memorials.
    1 point
  20. The bolt is an important one that helps bolt the OD case to the back of the main 3 speed case. Yes the bolt can be easily inserted with the Rubber O-Ring already on the bolt into the case hole. I also use Permatex # 1 sealant on the 3/8" X 16 TPI bolt. I'll go measure the length of one here shortly. Shortly later... the bolt is just under 5-1/2" long..... 9/16" hex head... grade 5
    1 point
  21. All done... Glad I did this before the trip. I got an early start this morning. Was out in the garage around 6:30. Got the steering box adjusted right away and was on to the manifold job by 8:00. I thought I was going to have a delay for a supply run. I wanted to grease the front suspension components before lowering it down, but my grease gun was empty. I dug out my second grease gun and it had just enough to grease the front end. Delay avoided... The manifold sway went fairly smoothly. I had 3 studs come out, so I had to drain the coolant. It was 3 with the conical nuts and cupped washers. It took a fair amount of heat to break the bond between the nuts and studs, but they finally loosened up and were reusable. The good part about that was that those areas were easier to clean up the old gasket material without having to work around the studs. A little sealer on the threads and it all went back together without any fuss. Had it running by 10:30. Got things cleaned up and backed it out of the garage for a test drive. Needed to run some errands anyway, including a stop at Fleet Farm for grease. Runs great. Steering is awesome now. Much easier to drive now. It smoked quite a bit at first until all of the gunk was burned out of the replacement manifold, but that cleared up fairly quickly. When I got back home I jacked up the rear and greased the rear suspension and driveline. All good to go now. A BIG thank you again to Todd for hooking me up with the manifold. The crack was worse than I expected. Red arrows are pointing at the ends. Wouldn’t have been long before it was a 2 piece manifold. All done... and retorqued after running it for a few minutes, and again after my errand run/test drive.
    1 point
  22. 1 point
  23. no external resistor allowed for full voltage when cranking....it is the by-passing of this resistor from the start contact of the ignition switch that applied full power to the coil, the run circuit is the one that drops the voltage on the coil so not to overheat it when in operation. The OP needs to get familiar of how an basic points ignition system works and if he does not have an owners manual at hand, there are so many good white papers on the internet that simplify the operation and offer excellent simple tests for each component. I suggest a sit down and read session.
    1 point
  24. There is a long bolt that goes in that top OD housing. The bolt hole also has a beveled recess for a rubber O-Ring to help seal the bolt so it does not leak oil. here is a couple pics of an original OD showing that bolt and external toothed lock washer. You can just see part of the rubber O-ring poking out as I un-screwed the bolt...
    1 point
  25. I had a cousin that married a young man that was a paratrooper in the 101st. He ended the war as a platoon sgt. One of my neighbors as a kid was a draftee that got a battlefield commission to 1st Lt Platoon Leader of Armor with Patton in Africa. Never saw him mad in my life until somebody mentioned Patton to him. I thought his head was going to explode.
    1 point
  26. moderator, please post parts wanted in the "wanted" section! no, really (luv ya man!)
    1 point
  27. I'd say a MINIMUM of 2 threads...I normally like to see 3
    1 point
  28. If I recall correctly, a bolt's length is correct if 1 1/2 threads extend past the nut. Or in this case, threaded portion of the drum. Not sure if a 3/4 inch long bolt would be long enough and am pretty sure 1.5 inch would be too long. Pretty easy to mount the wheel on the drum with the drum off the vehicle to check. I would error on the long size and be prepared to cut it too length if there is a clearance problem.
    1 point
  29. If the lug bolts are the same as for passenger cars, then the right hand thread version is Chrysler part 386984 which crosses to Dorman 610-018 and/or NAPA BK6411554. For the left hand thread version the original Chrysler number 856981 should match up with NAPA TWD WA2592. I keep my cross reference data at http://www.ply33.com/Parts/numeric (don't let that "numeric" in the link fool you, you can search by name, part type codes or part number) with the stuff for lug bolts at http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group22#22-05-14
    1 point
  30. After multiple software & hardware technical problems were addressed, I finally got a wiring diagram put together in AutoCAD. This includes the Signal Stat wiring diagram and a headlight relay to improve lamp candlepower output. I've also routed the PANEL switch to control the dome lamp, linked the front & rear park lamps at the HEAD switch, and shown a ground wire to the horn (something I've been tinkering with, details to follow). The wiring insulation on the '49 is falling apart, so it'll be the first to get this tryout. The next thing I want to figger into this is an electric fuel pump with relay & oil pressure safety switch, as well as a fused power tap for a radio & a fan. I've read articles on the dangers of overloading this simple circuitry that's choked off by that AMP gauge, so I've been considering doing a partial bypass...anyhow, more to fiddle with; at some point I'll put it on paper, figger up a wiring jig, and slap it together B-WiringDiagram3.PDF
    1 point
  31. After 171 years of candy making, the Necco plant in Revere Mass has closed it's doors... Necco has been making the classic Necco Wafers since 1847, as well as other sweets, including Sweethearts, Mary Jane, Thin Mints, Clark Bars, and the Sky Bar.
    0 points
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use