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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/28/2018 in all areas

  1. The build sheet for my car says that it was “delivered” on this date in 1948, so today is its 70th birthday. To celebrate my wife and I took the old Dodge to a local ice cream/snack bar for lunch. When we got home I told the car I would give it some oil when it cools off?
    2 points
  2. I have a 50 B2b from the original owner(my father-in-law). So i poured the oil out of the oil bath air cleaner to replace it. Lying in the oil was an ignition key with a key tag. I fits the truck perfectly in the passenger door and ignition. The key i had been using is brass and looks original as it has identical border design, however it is so worn that it hangs up in the ignition and won't work in the door at all. The key I found in the air cleaner is steel, not brass. So is it original? don't know. I have included a picture. It has a tag with a number and the same name (Hurd) as the key. The tag is labeled "Record and detach" ????. Not sure why. Is there, or was there, a data base somewhere that an ignition key could be reproduced if i have this number? At the dealership?
    2 points
  3. Let me see if I can explain my point of this setup. When I installed the dual carbs I bought the carbs and air cleaners from tom Langdon and they were just these simple bell type air cleaner with the filter exposed to elements. I took my wagon on the hot rod power tour this year and after 2700 miles I returned home and noticed that the rear air cleaner element that the lower molded area of the air filter was distorted from the engine exhaust heat . Never liked the exposed filters and decided to change the air filters to something more protective to the elements and maybe improve drive ability. No one makes a dual element air cleaner so I went thru the shop looking for something that might work. We had a big block vette tri power set up and I measured it and thus the air cleaner . I wanted to help cool the air temp entering the engine and thus the ambient air sent to the air cleaner . From past experience with allowing fresh air into the carbs verses hot engine air. Cool air is the winner. Never dyno an engine that didn't do better cold verses hot. Secondly I like the look of the air cleaner. ps. Had several people on this site question me as why would I spend money on an aluminum head,dual carbs,Fenton exhaust ,etc and air cleaner . Drove my wagon for a year in stock trim and I can confirm that without a doubt this wagon runs,drives and out performs itself now.
    2 points
  4. After 171 years of candy making, the Necco plant in Revere Mass has closed it's doors... Necco has been making the classic Necco Wafers since 1847, as well as other sweets, including Sweethearts, Mary Jane, Thin Mints, Clark Bars, and the Sky Bar.
    2 points
  5. We have a pair of white fuzzy dice hanging from the rear view mirror in our new (used) convertible. My 6 year old great nephew was visiting so I gave him a ride. He jumped in the front seat and pointed at the dice and said “Cool Dominoes”.
    1 point
  6. After roughly 12 years on this forum, I seem to read more than post. I apologize for my level of involvement, but it gives me cause to "tip my hat" to the gentlemen who keep at it "day in and day out". If you click on the leader board, you get an idea of who's digging deep inside their cranium on a regular basis to give us all a bit of free gold from the depths of their motorheads. I share what I can, when I can, and look forward to fixing my old threads so the images show again. But until then..... I wanna say Thank You my friends, for the love you show our trucks thru the wisdom of busted knuckles , and for sharing all that damn gold. 48D
    1 point
  7. Here's a dis-assembled convertible vent window. Is the top serrated stop washer loose? I've had some pretty good success with a penetrant called Free All when used repeatedly over three or four days. Keep spraying and tapping with a brass hammer.
    1 point
  8. Here's a video I did a few years ago on the spindle etc.....might be interesting. Estrada Motorsports video 48D
    1 point
  9. Hey @Al Peterson, I love your walls! Oh yeah, nice truck too ? I've got a '50 B2B l'm slowly fooling around with; named her Roxanne. Currently her wheels are naked on the floor while I try to figure out how I'm going to go about painting them.
    1 point
  10. Now that is a nice truck, just as it is. Welcome to the real world. Now you need some MOPAR signs on those prestine walls!
    1 point
  11. It is fun when you have an experienced pro teaching you how to do it right. Learning to weld on your own is one of the most frustrating things to try to learn. LOTS of people are self-taught including me,but I sure wish I had taken classes instead of burning up enough steel to build a battleship first.
    1 point
  12. The heads are '70 or later. The '67 engine has decent cases with a 69mm crankshaft and a 200mm flywheel with single port heads and a single oil relief valve. In 1970 VW changed the cases to dual oil relief valves, a slightly different oil cooler and installed dual port heads. It's not unusual to see dual port heads on a '67 VW but they weren't OEM. Replace the distributor with an 009, upgrade to a Weber progressive carb, install an Engle 110 cam, and that will be a much more responsive motor.
    1 point
  13. Nick regarding the chassis upgrade choices.........with the independant front end that mopars have already installing another suspension system such as a Mustang 11, Jag , Corvette or aftermarket system is a little more complicated than say on a late 30's/40's Frod or GM product as their chassis's are essentially straight forward from the firweall which makes installation of a different sysytem a little easier............our Mopar chassis forward of the firewall has all the suspension bracketry, spring pockets etc that need to be removed THEN a pair of straight chassis rails installed and only then the various aftermarket or whatever bolt/weld in suspension units installed........its doable but in reality a much more complicated job..............the mopar front end properly rebuilt with new bushes & pins with disc brakes installed and possibly a Cavalier rack or later model steering box or just a rebuilt original will be more than a great riding, handling and stopping car............my own 1940 Dodge has a 318 Poly V8, auto, 4wheel discs, rack & pinion steering etc, etc and has been more or less like this since the mid 1970's and is still going strong so these cars are worth perservering with...............you asked about welding and hiring the welding gear............I would NOT recommend this arrangement as I can see it getting very expensive very quickly..........I started off with an Oxy set and did a part time welding course at the local Tech college then got a stick welder as a Xmas present and taught myself to use that, this was the early 70's when MIG's were much more expensive than today...........I'd still suggest trying to get hold of an Oxy set as there are a lot of things you can do using Oxy once you are good with it and part from welding you can learn to Metal finish/panel beat and that is a skill to be proud of........but whatever you decide thats fine as its good to be involved and enjoy working on your car...........have you got any pics you can post as we'd all like to see what you have......regards from Oz.......Andy Douglas
    1 point
  14. July 27: In the driveway at home with the moon shining down. My phone takes some weird pictures sometimes ?
    1 point
  15. Finished my fresh air cleaner using a 69 vette big block tri powered air cleaner and the factory blow thru blower motor
    1 point
  16. oh man....just couple weeks ago discovered that they were making the NECCO wafers in a sour variety....,sad to see this icon candy disappear from the shelves.
    1 point
  17. with all due respect, a floor pan is often easily repaired as the tunnel seems to hold up fairly well and the common foot placement areas where water and dirt is forever present gets the worse rust. Cutting these sections out and copying the shape of the removed piece, use of bead roller and proper butt weld clamps on install and alignment prior to weld is usually the worst of the fabrication and even then that is not bad. After this phase it is welding, prep to prime, paint and undercoat in the manner you find best suits your build. Most any metal working shop will have flat stock to purchase. I even recommend use of donor hoods and roof panels as they are a tad heavier guage....many body shops will let you walk off with one of these from a collision repair for token coin.
    1 point
  18. Welcome aboard Nick, seems like you have a great project you never know but it might just get addictive.........I've had my 1940 Dodge since 1971, bought it when I was 17, still in school and learnt to drive in it with my Dad as co-pilot..............lol............all the suggestions put forward by the guys are good and worthwhile, I'd also recommend getting a workshop manual, ideally a paper one not the CD version also when you start work on the car, only do relatively small easily completed jobs at first as if you sometimes start pulling too many things off in one go it can overwhelm you and make it difficult to continue.......believe me I know...............lol..............I'd give it a good clean from top to bottom, regrease all the grease points in the suspension and chassis including the driveshaft, and generally tidy everything up and keep it roadworthy as nothing beats being young, bright eyed and busy tailed and driving YOUR car down the road............radial tyres wil make it much more pleasant to drive, a disc brake conversion is a good investment but remember that in doing so you will more than likely need to swap master cylinders, also the brake lines /front hoses will need changing more than likely...........whether its 6 or 12volt it would be a good straightforward job to go thru ALL the connections and check they are clean and have proper earths etc...........if the battery has 3 cells then its 6v, if 6 cells then its 12volt..............anyway again , welcome aboard from sunny Sth Grafton Australia...........Andy Douglas
    1 point
  19. I would personally recommend running radial tires......the old bias ply style are bad about following all the ruts and grooves in the road and you sometimes have to fight the steering wheel. Radials have the sidewall give and a newer tread design......therefore they track better. They are harder to turn when at a stop or moving very slowly. Is your car the two seat coupe or the one seat business coupe? The engine should be a silver color and most accessories attached to it are black. Or, at least that's what I did. I presume you know it is positive ground, with the positive side of the battery grounded to the block. Make sure all your parking light and tail light connectors and bulb bases are clean and make good contact.....and are grounded properly. If you have not invested in a P15 repair manual and also a factory parts manual.....you should do so soon. Reprints are usually available if originals are difficult to find. Addendum......on a P15 with 15 inch wheels....the equivalent of a 215 R 15 is the best size in my opinion.
    1 point
  20. On mine, the stock hole where the brake line came through the rails on the passenger side was like you said, in a position where the tire may rub it and just as bad, stretch the line when turned the opposite direction. I re-drilled the hole through the frame to be close to center with the axle to alleviate the problem on that side. The drivers side is a bit if a problem as you have two brackets, one for the steering gear, and the other for the brace from the frame to the cross-member. There was already a hole on the drivers side in about the right location so I used it. It may have been the wrong hole as I totally disassembled my truck to the rails and didn't take pictures of it. I had to replace the brake lines anyway as they were cut. Someone had cut them when they removed the engine. The hoses that Charlie suggests work fine, but they are a bit on the short side and could use an inch or two IMHO.
    1 point
  21. Let me start this by saying I am not looking for sympathy, but instead want to raise your level of awareness. I know many of you are in my age group, I turn 73 this year. All of those years I have been blessed with excellent health. Almost never sick, no allergies, just one good day after another, for over 70 years. I have spent my entire life eating anything I wanted, no problems. About a year ago, I started noticing shortness of breath when exerting myself. I have had a wood stove in my shop and wood burning fireplace for 40 years. Always enjoyed being in the timber cutting wood. Last fall I was only able to cut about 5 minutes and needed a break. Sat there grasping for air. The last several months I have felt very tired all the time. When Life Line Screening came to my town, I signed up. And paid extra for more tests. All tests were satisfactory. Somewhat of a surprise to me as I was sure something was not up to par. Next I visited my family doctor. After hearing my story, he set me up for a stress test (the good ole treadmill). Couple of days later his nurse calls me to let me know I have a appointment with a cardiologist. After consulting with him he said nothing was showing up as a problem, but I might want to do an angioplasty to be safe. I said yes. I am nowhere near being a hypochondriac, but I wanted a definite answer, not just an opinion. I knew something was causing my symptoms beside my age. The angioplasty found 3 arterial blockages. One was 50%, the other two were 90%. All three in the same artery, the one known as the “ Widowmaker”. The cardiologist said, “you dodged a bullet, many men their first warning of this situation is when they’re falling to the ground dead”. Had I not paid attention to what my body was telling me, and not vigorously pursued an answer, that would have been me. I now have 2 stents, but a future ahead. Pay attention guys or someone else may be driving your Flathead.
    1 point
  22. Lol. It keeps commin! Oh well. 2 more things fixed up better than it was. You won’t be able to contain the smile when you are back out cruising.
    1 point
  23. Saw this set up on a '41 Dodge at the Syracuse Nationals last weekend - looks like it really flows!
    1 point
  24. Thank you. Still no luck. Not sure if the pins are pressed in or what. The video shows them being tapped out toward outside of frame.
    1 point
  25. so while on my yearly trip to the UP, this year the "End of the Road" show fell on the same weekend. So while we went to Copper Harbor to have a few beers, shop for trinkets and wander some trails I saw these fella's. I know the Pilot House owner posts (posted?) here for a while, ran thru the show a few times to see if I could catch him, never did...
    1 point
  26. Welcome to the cult, some may say family.
    1 point
  27. Ya don't have a bout of flu comin' on? *COUGH* SICK DAYS *COUGH* 4 DAY WEEKEND *COUGH* ?
    1 point
  28. LOL. I'd love to. Colorado is a great place to visit. Unfortunately my vacation time for this year is already booked up.
    1 point
  29. Hey Merle, c'mon over here. We'll use my truck and make a new video
    1 point
  30. Check out the videos from 48Dodger. There is one addressing taking this apart. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC9KYZPKxJJaOE-D3-2IRTMg
    1 point
  31. Bringing this back so I can add to it. I finally got to road test it and I hadn’t made any other changes besides the intake and headers. The exhaust is y-piped into a single 2.25 pipe going through a stock 2010 Mustang GT muffler exiting before the rear tire. It sounds pretty good and works well. Engine is a fairly stock fresh 230 with a .030 overbore and .050 off the head, cam is stock. It has a modified slant 6 distributor, 1.5 ohm canister coil, HEI module and plugs set at .040. Using 7mm resistor wires. Went from the stock intake and exhaust and Carter carb. The ignition system was already done so it is not new. Other than taking a screwdriver to the Weber’s, I haven’t made any changes, they are Langdons out of the box First impressions: BOTTOM END improvement! Big difference down low! It idles really well and better throttle response all around. Even works ok with the Fluid Drive despite not having a dashpot but I may add one. 2000 rpm and punch it: good improvement. Slight bog when the secondaries open but it pulls through and if you roll into it, no bog at all. 3500-4500: I’m almost never there but I backed out at 4500 and it was still pulling so I’m definitely not running out of carb. Overall I’m very happy with the results. Hope this helps someone who is considering similar mods. Adam
    1 point
  32. Btw, I have done zero tuning, the way it ran was out of the box. Throttle response was much better than stock even in its poor state of tune. Started and idled at about 300 rpm without lifting a screwdriver to it.
    1 point
  33. still have about 8 inches to go before it hits the hood.
    1 point
  34. Intake time.... Couple of dilemmas here, my 49 has a heater box hanging on the firewall and I wanted to center the 2 carbs between the 3 intake ports as best as I could. Some careful measuring here but I did make a couple of boo boo's. First, I underestimated how bulky these Weber carbs were going to be so I goofed a little on the spacing. Second I mis-measured on the back carb and got too close to the heater box. The results were choke removal on both carbs to fit. Oh well, I live in CA so it will be fine... What to use for intake runners? I didn't want to use standard bends but I wanted a gradual bend from the intake log to the port, off to Home Depot I go. I found 90 degree bends in the EMT section that will fit the bill perfectly. Now to clear the heater box, remain symmetrical and be able to center the carbs between the ports I had to lean the outer intake runners toward the middle a little Adding the horizontal part of the intake Risers for the Weber carbs
    1 point
  35. I chose to finish the headers with a hand file. My OCD is showing... I didn't like the caps I welded over the removed 4th exhaust tubes so I made some covers. Warpage can be a problem so I had to bend it back a little. (pitfall)
    1 point
  36. Next would be to find a set of donor headers to cut up, in my case it was SBC headers. Cut, weld, modify and start tacking them to the flange. Best to get both tacked on and fit to the engine before final welding. I wanted to be able to clear the oil pump and fuel pump with room to spare. Finished welded the headers to the flange, ground and dressed the welds.
    1 point
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