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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/26/2018 in all areas

  1. After roughly 12 years on this forum, I seem to read more than post. I apologize for my level of involvement, but it gives me cause to "tip my hat" to the gentlemen who keep at it "day in and day out". If you click on the leader board, you get an idea of who's digging deep inside their cranium on a regular basis to give us all a bit of free gold from the depths of their motorheads. I share what I can, when I can, and look forward to fixing my old threads so the images show again. But until then..... I wanna say Thank You my friends, for the love you show our trucks thru the wisdom of busted knuckles , and for sharing all that damn gold. 48D
    4 points
  2. I used to fool with British cars years ago. About 98% of electrical problems could be traced to bad grounds. Oh, yes, they might look good but corrosion has a way of creeping into the fastener and reducing the effectiveness. Since that learning experience I've come to check the grounds whenever there are problems. I am rarely disappointed with that philosophy. The 98% rate stands with old American cars, too.
    2 points
  3. additional information - Ground Strap Information
    2 points
  4. update: The long and short of it is a ground issue, which I figured but I did assume the painted taillight mounts were removed and cleaned when painted. They were not. So I cleaned the mating surfaces and both taillights and brake lights worked great. The headlamps didn't work either, I did have to replace the dimmer switch as well. Once I took the lamps out, the mystery was solved. First, the bottom of the lamp assembly was fiberglass reinforced and thusly creating a barrier to it being grounded. Secondly, the headlamp harnesses were in terrible shape. A big thanks to everyone for your suggestions and help!
    2 points
  5. there should be no need for ground straps if you have properly cleaned connection points where you run your grounds. Ground straps are a "cheat".
    2 points
  6. Since Al has the book with the "key", he'll have the definitive answer. But I'd venture a guess that "Z" is the fuel gauge, "EE" is the fuel level sensor, and "DD" is the tail/brake light. Edit: Al's reply beat mine. but it was a good educated guess
    1 point
  7. They can get very plugged up.
    1 point
  8. To me it looks like "E" is the dimmer switch. One wire in, two out (leaving page) possibly going to headlights, and 4th going up to high beam indicator "V".
    1 point
  9. Recently did mine in 3/16” NiCop brake line. Ran it around the back of the head and left some slack for timing adjustments. It will be anchored to the block in front of the temp gauge bulb with an edel clip.
    1 point
  10. I'm thinking if you have dash lights your grounds are good. If you by-passed the light switch and went with a hot wire directly to the head light hot leads and the bulb lit, the ground for the head light is good. This gets me back to the wiring diagram. I compared your diagram for the 47 WC against my diagram for a 49 B1B. Looks like they both have the 6 terminal light switch. My headlight wire comes off the terminal of your wire 28 at your headlight switch. My headlight wire goes from the headlight switch to the input terminal of my dimmer switch then out of the dimmer switch to the HI and LO of my headlights. Your wire 28 comes off the headlight switch, goes to item "L" (a connector?) and then becomes wire 13, goes to item "E" (a terminal block?). Off of item "E", wire 12 feeds a single bulb "V". Your wiring diagram is cut off and doesn't show me where the other two wires from item E are going. So the question becomes: do either of these two wires come back and feed the input of the dimmer switch, item V. You have to have a Hot wire coming off your headlight switch and feeding the input of the dimmer.
    1 point
  11. Use of a short rubber hose allows flexibility required to adjust the timing.
    1 point
  12. The original would have been the metal line and the reason for the bends and or curvature is for engine movement and twisting. The line can flex since there is a curve to the metal line. If it was rigid then it would bend and then break and then cause a vacuum leak. Also with a rubber hose the hose would be crossing over the head and also the manifold and there would be a good posibility of the hose getting hot and burning a hole inthe hose. Get the new nicad metal lines and bend a new line with the fittings. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com
    1 point
  13. A lawyer. For somebody who supposedly passed the bar, he couldn't spell worth a tinkers damn.
    1 point
  14. so while on my yearly trip to the UP, this year the "End of the Road" show fell on the same weekend. So while we went to Copper Harbor to have a few beers, shop for trinkets and wander some trails I saw these fella's. I know the Pilot House owner posts (posted?) here for a while, ran thru the show a few times to see if I could catch him, never did...
    1 point
  15. The plunger, needle should move with no resistance other than the spring tension. P
    1 point
  16. Set the mixture screw for the highest vacuum reading. From there you may need to open it up just a bit to make sure when you set the idle speed screw the throttle plate will be it the proper relationship with the off idle port. If that the relationship is off it can result in a stumble when accelerating from a stop. Pete
    1 point
  17. It was a rare visit from the sun! And it's true... my son is 18. How does that happen?!!!
    1 point
  18. See Merle's "Pilot - House Friends" post from August ’17 for background. Last summer/fall, between a couple of trips to the clinic for follow up care, Eddie enjoyed sun on his face and good asphalt under his toes – at most 50 miles. In early November a clogged artery (idle tube) and another bum knee (rear wheel cylinder this time) stopped him in his tracks again. It’s pretty clear discharge from the nursing home was premature – but it was fun. With winter approaching and a list of ailments to address, I exercised power of attorney privileges and stuck him in rehab for more treatment. Eddie got out today! Highlights of an 8 month rehab stint: · Shedding a few pounds of crud from under-carriage and a decent cleaning under the hood and inside the cab Prepped and painted cab floor; added sound insulation to most of the cab; and re-covered seat · Refurbished original parking lights and replaced 60’s era front turn signals with 40’s era Arrow brand signals · New tail lights (including passenger side addition) and rear LED turns · Installed restored 802 radio and 40’s era speaker; plus a hide-away antenna · Complete wiring harness; tachometer added; temp gauge and choke cable repaired; NOS dimmer and panel light switches; and speedo cable · Rear brakes – re-sleeved cylinders, drums shaved and shoes re-lined · Carb cleaning/adjustments; fuel filter; and a few other mechanical tweaks; · Other miscellaneous quality of life items. · (New windshield and painting visor are on to-do list) Eddie won’t win a street fight at a car/truck show, but he is a solid old-codger with an attitude. Hopefully we’ll get some work done and have a little fun before he demands time off for bingo (or another breakdown). A BIG shout out to Merle for his guidance and help. Thanks to B1BKeven and ggdad1951 for their contributions. And thanks to forum members for sharing hundreds of pages of insights and ideas.
    1 point
  19. All that time working with you on your truck and I had no idea you had named him Eddie. ?
    1 point
  20. The info I posted was for both you and Rich and others. Someone might need this info in the future if they can find this thread. I'm not lookin anymore.! I'm worn out.
    1 point
  21. Prior to retiring I was a field engineer for the company that maintains and upgrades all the bank note processing machines for the federal reserve banks all across the country. One of the things required when doing an upgrade was insuring that all ground straps (and there were a lot of them) were connected prior to the final inspection and returning the machines to service. We were also required to fabricate a cardboard rear door on these machines for testing purposes. On one occasion my boss (many of you know him as forum member Chet) was paying an inspection visit to the FRB in Seattle. Prior to his arrival I connected a ground strap to the temporary cardboard door to insure compliance. He found that and we all had a good laugh.
    1 point
  22. the starter you have, MAW 4041 is actucally for a 46-48 Dodge 230 ..you never know over the years what may end up on what car as so much will interchange..for what it is worth, the Chrylser for those years is MAX 4050 and DeSoto is MAW 4025
    1 point
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