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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/12/2018 in all areas

  1. Hey, it's been some time since I've last visited the ol group here. Any way, things are going good. The '40 is doing well and I've managed to really make it a trustworthy ol' crate. The 218 I posed here is doing just fine, keep it happy and it's about due for a tuneup. Earlier this year, I finally had the headliner done! I paid a little extra and had quality insulation installed too. So, it's much more tolerable to drive on a warm day! Here's some photos of her more recently: At the LA Air Raid event, Fort MacArthur, San Pedro. Last year's trip to Big Bear Lake. 2016, up at Crystal Lake, Azusa Canyon for Christmas! In 2015, got new tires, and finally found the correct hubcaps! More photos to come.
    2 points
  2. 2 points
  3. why are some member being very critical of the gentleman that is having the issue? I give him credit for asking the questions and also great credit for trying to learn about his car and the electrical system. Yes the forum has a great amount of season veteran antique car owners that have a great deal of knowledged. But least remember that YOU All did not know it all when you were first starting out in this hobby. We allhave to learn at some point in time. Yes the owner could have taken it to a mechanic and the mechanic would have found the issue and fixed the car, But would the mechanic have explained what he did and transfered his knowledge to this owner, I think probably NOT. So now the owner has some kinowledge and can keephis car running incase it has a breakdown on the road. I must say that there are members on this forum that also ask alot of questions also, so why is not that you do not put down these members and also discourage a new member from restoring or keeping a good old MoPar running but maybe we should chase him away to the Chevy and Ford guys. I was a teacher and the parting of knowledge is what all of us need to do to help each other. May be someone with another antique car will be stuck on the raod and this owner just might stop by the car that is stuck onthe raod be it any other make of car and gets the guy back onthe road. This is what the hobby is all about helping and not putting people down for their questions. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
    2 points
  4. Jayfire, Is this a Canadian car? The reason I ask is I see it says Spitfire on the head, which would be a Chrysler head, that would make it a 25" long block. The American cars were 23" long, so somebody may have switched the engine and that may be causing the shifting problems if not properly lined up. Just thinking out loud.
    1 point
  5. When the carb was apart, did you remove or disturb the throttle butterfly valve? I had the same problem with a B&B C6E2.The engine would idle on the adjustment screw, but the mixture screw had no affect - it idled best with the screw all the way in. Poor transition off idle - stumble, hesitation, stalling, fouled plugs. I tried everything I could think of - Installed a carb kit, checked fuel pressure, changed the float level, different initial timing, a different distributor, nothing helped. I finally read the rebuild instructions in an old Motor manuel. They stressed the importance of correctly centering the throttle butterfly making sure the transfer slot was completely covered. The C stamped in the butterfly visible from the bottom and toward the idle port. The C6E2 had been apart before. Sure enough, the transfer slot was partially exposed with the butterfly completely closed. This condition bypasses the the idle port/ mixture screw completely and dumps air/fuel emulsion below the butterfly. It's only supposed to happen off idle to supply extra fuel until the main metering system has sufficient air velocity to take over. I was not able to adjust the butterfly correctly as I think it had the wrong butterfly. Luckily, I had a parts carb, swapped butterflies, and that butterfly adjusted perfectly and the carb worked fine. If the shaft is loose in the throttle body, the butterfly may not center correctly. Hope this helps. The first picture shows the idle port and transfer slot below it. The second picture is the throttle butterfly closed and the transfer slot covered. The third picture is problem butterfly that couldn't be centered to close enough to block the slot
    1 point
  6. Robert, you do not need 8 volts to start these engines if everything is in good condition. Make sure to clean BOTH ends of your battery cables, and check that they have not been replaced with 12 volt cables. You need size O or OO cables on your 6 volt vehicle. Good job on hunting down your ignition problem.
    1 point
  7. Finally found the problem The insulation on the small jumper wire was worn and the wire was either arcing or grounding out. Fabricated a new jumper wire and started and runs fine. Again, appreciate input and help from everyone. Another learning experience. Next question. Converting to 8 volt battery. Can someone explain how to adjust the voltage regulator? With pictures would be awesome. Thanks again
    1 point
  8. It was a rare visit from the sun! And it's true... my son is 18. How does that happen?!!!
    1 point
  9. Thanks Keith, that's very helpful. Yes, we'll be in the Speedster -- we are drawn to bad roads like flies to an outhouse. These photos are from last Labour Day weekend when we did 600+ miles of gravel from Whitecourt to the Crowsnest (eastern slopes of the Rockies)
    1 point
  10. Check this measurement tutorial and search online for a shock absorber that works for you! DJ https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1&q=how+to+determine+shock+absorber+length&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwie5OjtnZjcAhUBP6wKHVtbBU0Q1QIIugEoAw&biw=1746&bih=959
    1 point
  11. Yup you can feel it just from picking them up. I bet the old or NOS ones weigh 5-10 times what the cheap new ones do.
    1 point
  12. Thanks for posting this — very timely, as we expect to be speedstering through the area in late August on our way to Oregon and it will be an interesting stop. Can you tell me whereabouts the artifacts are based on the map below? Thanks.
    1 point
  13. New rule!!! The closer to the ground the repair is, the more likely l will now pay some one else to do it.
    1 point
  14. My problem is that I keep having to buy a jack that lifts the car higher than the previous jack. Tall jack stands are getting expensive too.
    1 point
  15. My Oz 2cents says that for me it should have a nice shiney paint job, Silverdomes suggestion re shooting some clear over it may help.........but I'd venture to say that if it had a real nice paint job even costing 5-10 grand and some chrome bumpers that the price then could easily top 20-25K...........but whether the owner has the coin to go further or even wants to is something only he can decide...........any pics of the engine bay & interior and whats the overall mechanical spec too?............andyd
    1 point
  16. As CSGM Bill Edge,one of my friends and heroes from my army days used to say after he retired,"Getting old ain't for sissies!"
    1 point
  17. Nice car. Where in Pa.are you located?
    1 point
  18. Under the hood or trunk in this case.
    1 point
  19. Congrats on your project. My first car was a P15 and I still have it. I just got it back on the road after 30 years in a barn. These things come apart much easier than they go back together. In a weekend, I blew it pretty apart and it sat for over 3 years in pieces because it was a bit overwhelming once I was staring at a pile of parts. It really wasn't a car at that point. As others are saying, resist the temptation to turn a manageable project into a massive project. What I finally decided to do was go with the Roadkill philosophy and just get it running, and only fix structural rust and then figure out what I really want to do with it and then work on that part. Don't care what car looks like, just get it on the road. As soon as I got it running, it was a car again instead of a pile of parts. It motivates you. Now I drive it around with a piece of cardboard covering the master cylinder hole, zip ties to hold open the vent window and I work on smaller projects of a running car. I have the parts to fix both, but neither stop me from going to the parts store in it. One day I may even paint it. :) IMG_1615.mov.mp4
    1 point
  20. True dat. You will still get a odor that will bring back memories,but not good ones.
    1 point
  21. At some point and time you are going to stall out or get frustrated with the part of the car you are working on......say the fuel system. Resist the urge to move on and deconstruct another part of the car, if you go down that path you will have a pile of parts that more than likely will never go back together again. Pick a task and finish it, then move on to the next one. Lots of project cars out there that will never be finished or worse get scrapped. Not every car needs to be a frame off restoration. Good luck with your plymouth!
    1 point
  22. Seriously - and I hope without appearing to be sarcastic...this is July 1, not April 1st. I think at this point you should consider hiring a knowledgeable mechanic to help you out. LOL
    1 point
  23. Hey i use to drive as a daily my 41 dodge luxury liner coup, it’s more a 2nd car now but i use it in all weather conditions, all original, engin run like new, 3 on tree no fluid drive and bias ply tires make it a real confortable car and now i just buy a 42 chrysler windsor, this car need to be serviced before taking the road again but body in very good shape paint need to be polished i’m gonna use it like my dodge. both with the original flat 6 engin from factory
    1 point
  24. In 1956, I bought a '36 Plymouth coupe almost identical to the one pictured here. Mine was a rumble seat model and cost $25.00 Also pictured are my present vintage '67 Plymouth Furys. Not as vintage as most listed here but they are 50+ years old. I use them year round unless there is heavy rain or of course, salted roads. John R
    1 point
  25. Hello, I just drove my 48 Plymouth to the Glendale Elks Car show last Sunday. It was a 45 Min drive, She worked Great! And after 35yrs of ownership she still gets a award.
    1 point
  26. I'm a fair weather driver. The '36 was stored inside an old garage from 1957 thru 2005, and hasn't been wet in 60 years. The '49 is a 40 year old restoration and leaks in lots of annoying little places in the rain. I just drove it today, and now it's in for an oil change.
    1 point
  27. Mine is a rolling restoration. In other words, I had enough money to get it drivable, but not enough to paint and upholster. That being said, I drive mine at least a couple of times a week around town or to work and back. Joe Lee
    1 point
  28. I drive my 52 3/4 ton Dodge truck every day. It is the only vehicle I own. I knew when I started on it it was going to be my daily driver so I built it accordingly. I have put over 10,000 miles on it so far....and so far so good. Here it is in front of my shop this morning. We are finally getting a bit of rain. Jeff
    1 point
  29. Same car since 1991, fifth State it's been registered in since we've owned it. Put up for the winter right now. Where this photo was taken on our property is currently under 4 feet of snow. Although our antique car insurance has a lay-up discount that applies from December to March, I have to put it away in November, and don't event consider taking it out again until mid to late April when most of the snow is gone, and depending on how much/many "April Showers" we get to wash the salt off the roads. Then I take it to work once a week or so, depending on rain, to the farmer's market whenever we go, and at least one "spin" - as my Grandpa used to call it - just burning gas and enjoying the car and countryside, every month. We drive it more here than in previous places we've lived, but still put only 500 miles or so on it a year. Seriously thinking of replacing the bias-plies with radials, roads around here are just shy of awful and heavily rutted from log trucks. Makes driving it a bit more exiting that it needs to be...
    1 point
  30. I built mine to drive and do at least once a week. I must say there are some fine looking MOPARS in this thread. Jim M Clover,SC
    1 point
  31. When it's dry and sunny I drive my cars and trucks.....
    1 point
  32. Well I've been driving my Oz 1940 Dodge Sedan since September 1971 when I bought it as an unrestored stocker, after doing battle with getting the engine trans, diff, brakes & various other things "restored" I pulled the original running gear out in April 1973 and its been 318 V8 Poly,auto, 4wheel discs, rack & pinion etc since on normal Oz registration.....I usually drive it 2-3 times a week but its been having some intake manifold therapy the past 3-4 weeks but should be back on the road next week.............whilst its not technically "vintage" its close enough for me ..............lol.........varoom!!!!!!!.......Andy Douglas
    1 point
  33. Showoff!!!............lol.........seriously tho' you have every right to showoff, it looks very nice, a real credit to you........btw did you know that your dash pic is reversed.......the steering wheel should be on the other side............o/k.....will go sit in my corner now..........lol...............andyd.
    1 point
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