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I will replace this engine with the rebuild, Again, thanks to everyone for all of your input and help throughout this project. Bill

I guess it's about time I posted a few pictures of my project. I got this truck about 3 years ago, it was either I bought it or it went to the crusher, as I was only paying scrap price I figured I had nothing to loose. I knew once I started though, that It would be a very time and money consuming project. Besides replacing a bunch of sheet metal, I changed the rear end to a Jeep Cherokee with a 3.5 ratio and drum brakes. I installed a front ScareBird brake kit. The engine that is currently in the truck was supplied by Dan Babb. The engine that I am rebuilding is the one that was in the truck when I got it. Although the engine has some issues I have been driving it, I really love driving this old truck and am amazed at the amount of attention it draws, seems I can't go anywhere without someone wanting to examine the truck and relate fond memories of old Dodge trucks they have known. The paint color is called Laguna Green and was available on Mini Cooper convertibles for a short time. I put the truck together to make a comfortable driver, not a show truck.

Read this. Three times. http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/brakes.html/

Okay today I looked thru both a 1929-39 Plymouth parts book and a 1936-42 Plymouth parts book.... It's very unclear as to exactly which plug and part # is the one needed... but here you go. see what you can do with these #'s.. P3/P4 and up....661080 upper housing plug All this info from thru 1936-42 Ply parts book 661081 lower "" " The 1929-39 Ply parts book only listed Bell housing plug #660324 Try these parts numbers on a search. Good luck!

I didn't use a kit for the interior, but I did get ideas from this forum and from looking at Pilot House interiors website. I used a cardboard sheathing material that is plastic coated on both sides to make patterns and to make the final head liner, back panels, door panels and kick panels. I'm fairly happy with the way they turned out, everything is covered with vinyl except for the kick panels which are carpet. Bill

Congratulations on getting your out...mine is completely seized in, so a drill is the only way to remove it...why I went to locking door handle instead

Your stock 15" wheels may not fit with the Scarebird kit. My stock 15" wheels fit with Rusty Hope's (olddaddy's) kit. There was a thread not too long ago where the stock 15" wheel didn't fit on a Scarebird kit, had to order new wheels. Adam

If the gauge is verified with a known good gauge, then the only things that come to mind are the bearing clearances mentioned above, oil pressure relief permanently relieving, weak pump or a leak in the transfer pipe.

Depending on your long term plans for the car, and since you have plans for front disc conversion, you might want to look at replacing the axle assembly with something a bit more user friendly. Explorer 8.8 is a good option.

The Amazon link I posted above is for 0.156 bullet connectors for 10-12 gauge wire. They were the only ones that size I could find. That's why I was willing to wait on shipment from China. I pull off the yellow insulation and use heat shrink. They fit my 1939 headlight switch without modification. So they do exist...

I call it a Piling system and if you have any ambitions toward becoming an archaeologist now is your chance. Several times over the past ten years I have taken a plastic tote tray and put everything on the bench into it except paper and old rags . I then wrote the date on the tote and put it in the attic of another building where the whole upstairs looks like your bench. The reasoning was that I would know where anything of importance was and could easily go back and find it. I have never needed to look as of this date. However, I greatly fear that the totes will now be M I A . dp

Can bolt on Scarebirds in an hr or so.. Either are good kits, Scarebird gets you brand new hubs too, but the kit costs $100 more

Just build a new countertop over the old one. Or just set a countertop on a few bricks. You can push stuff apart enough to spot a few bricks.

Back in the day I refreshed the engine or more than one old beater with just rings and bearings using a hone and plastigage. You won't know until you pull the head, if the ring ridge at the top of the cylinder is minor then you can probably reuse the old pistons, hone the cylinders and drop in new rings. It won't be the same as a rebuild but can get you another 20,000 to 30,000 miles. On a lightly used hobby car that might be enough. If you have broken pistons and the cylinders are rough shape then you are in for more work. Pull the head, take a look and decide what you want from the car/engine and proceed accordingly.

You need a special puller to work on the rear brakes. You need to get a service manual for your car reproductions are on eBay all the time. A good investment. Will keep you from making expensive mistakes.

Brakes are never an area to cut corners. Replace all the hard line with the new copper-nickel brake line that will never rust in or out,and replace the hoses,too, Replace the rear wheel cylinders with new ones and turn the drums.

abra cadabra....many kits out there...I recommend our very own member who makes the kits, olddaddy@rustyhope.com

You could have the system pressure tested by a shop. Be advised these systems were not pressurized from the factory so any testing should not exceed 5 psi. Does you heater supply hose go any where close to the area in question?? In the mean time, clean it up, start it up and observe what happens. The other thing folks tend to do is overfill the radiator. There wants to be some room for expansion when hot. As long as the radiator core is covered with coolant you are good to go. If you put in more than needed it will belch it out.

All the 30" motors had 12 ports. I have a couple 331 ci motors, 12 ports.

My dad was part of the team that designed the first transistor radio. Note the soldering process in this film clip.

Here's a before and after of my 33 Plymouth .

I think that you should just close the door and build a new garage. ?

my buddy often said that cleaning a shop is best done by opening a door on each end and driving through with a front end loader....miss that guy, cancer took him a few years back.

Hey All, I have been having an issue with the parking brake disengaging when I release the handle and finally decided to take a look. I am pretty sure that what I found was the original setup from the factory...original parking brake lining plus 77 years worth of dirt, grease and rust! Gotta give Ma Mopar credit where credit is due...77 years on one lining! I pulled it apart and found the the lining was worn down to the rivets. And knowing my Gramps as I do I know that he never, ever considered changing it as he never, ever used the parking brake! I knew I had a spare parking brake assembly in a box-o-parts, but when I pulled it I discovered that it was for a 1938-40 Plymouth and the mount point was about 10 degrees off to the right [see attachment]. Now, I probably could have made it work, but I didn't want to take the chance, and I am lucky enough to have a lining repair company less than a mile from my house! So I spent a few hours removing the old lining & rivets, cleaning, sand blasting and painting. Once this was done I took the original assembly [with original lining as pattern] over to Peck's and had them reline the assembly. I took it in last Saturday at 1:30pm and picked it up today at 3:30pm. Not too bad and it looks damn near new [see attachments]. Now I get to clean the tail shaft and parking brake drum, put her all back together, adjust the parking brake and take her out for a test drive to the milkshake shop ?

Your post strikes a note with me as with so many others here. Your emotions are palpable as our family just had a get together to say goodbye to Molly. Molly started having seizures and the meds at the time were not helping. Those raw emotions rock you down to your soul without warning, so again, I feel your pain. Your sharing was well timed for me and I can see how your love for Abbey has also touched so many others here on the forum who too have shared their story. Old cars, trucks and pets can really bring a family together. My takeaway is to pickup some ice cream and check out cats on Amazon. I also think @P15-D24 makes a good point: "Good news is their is another friend waiting out their to join your life and family, " We are all (Molly too) deeply sorry for your loss.

Mayo jars are the cat's pajamas for this kind o' stuff. Trader Joe's still sells their mayo in glass jar (w/blue top). I feel bad every time we throw one out!

JB, I'm very envious, I desperately need to do that. Great job and great example.

This was the factory Miller tool to remove the axles...

I restored this truck over a 2 year period, but sold it several years ago. I would like to know if anyone knows where it is today. It was sold to a person in Maine then he sold it to someone else. I anybody has seen it, please let me know. Thanks

Just wanted to say to all of you from past to present that have proudly served our country. Thank You. I can speak for my family and say, we will always be in debt to you and will always have your back.

Pretty sure at 1:03 the guy calls the driver an a-hole........maybe cuz he didn't buckle in the kids?.....:D 48D