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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/13/2018 in all areas

  1. Got my B1B running and driving well, except it won't idle. Have to keep it revved up a bit. I know the idle circuit in the carb is the problem, but I've had it apart a couple times and can find no problems. Pulled 4 other carbs off of other vehicles and all have set so long they'll all need a major rebuild before they do anyone any good. Not looking for help, just bitching! Oh, well, I'll eventually figure it out. In the meantime I'm getting in it and heading to the cafe for lunch.
    2 points
  2. This is my '73 Dodge truck. I am in need of some help with the A/C. Anyone here have experience with these great trucks?
    2 points
  3. I encountered this on a 50 Plymouth. The owner was on vacation and 500 miles from home. It certainly sounded like a bad rod but the collateral clue was that the windshield wipers did not work well. Turned out that the pump's top cover was loose. Rather than risk further trouble we replaced the pump with a conventional one and hooked the wipers directly to the manifold.
    2 points
  4. I watched a movie last night on the Turner Classic Movie channel On Demand titled "The Young Stranger" made in '57. In it, the young man who is the main character has a P15 club coupe which appears in several scenes.. The car looks a little used and could use some TLC but doesn't put out any smoke. I always liked that body style model P15. John R
    1 point
  5. I just got a new speaker mounted behind the grille in the dash of my P15. Music is provided via bluetooth from my phone, using a piece of kit developed by a guy I know over here in the UK. They will be available commercially in a few weeks' time. If you're on facebook, here's a video...
    1 point
  6. It's interesting to see this thread revived. I ran with the electronic switch for a while but the OD was drawing too much current so it wasn't really up to the job. So I now have a VW headlight relay activated via a Shift-Rite knob on the gear shifter. It works really well and the mechanical relay makes a great sound as it engages/disengages giving it a real period feel. The VW part number is 311941581C (for 6v +ve ground). Hope this helps.
    1 point
  7. Sounds like your guardian angel was on duty !!!
    1 point
  8. Doc,you need to get in touch with bluefoxamazone above. Sounds to me like your burnt up old radio is exactly what he is looking for to convert to modern. Or as a wise man once said, "For every solution,there is a problem." Or something like that.
    1 point
  9. And they thought we wouldn’t notice. They don’t know who they’re dealing with! Lol!
    1 point
  10. All of the 6v fuel senders I have were worn. I ended up using a 12v tank (has different sender & fitting to 6v) in the 6v 52 truck and had a 12v sender modified to suit. My gauge fella reckoned it was a pain as the sender internals at the top of the arm worked in the opposite direction, so he hand-made a small brass cog to suit. I installed a later model plastic float and have set the arm to read empty with an inch of fuel left in the tank.
    1 point
  11. Our trucks are a little different here in Oz. My Canadian built (but Australian assembled) 52 DeSoto 1/2 ton truck has the internal rear vision mirror, passenger side door mirror, steering wheel horn ring, electric wiper, 802 radio, & under-dash ash tray. I pieced together my own set of 6v dual horns working from factory specifications... and I’m actually piecing together another 12v set for my 53 Dodge coupe truck at present (I have all of the parts but am yet to have them painted). I have another 802 radio which will be retro-fitted with all modern 12v components for the 53 coupe truck, and I will keep all of the old valve electrics for spares for my other fitted 6v (fully rebuilt) radio. i have fitted a USA internal door latch mechanism (which I picked up from Mark at the BBQ in CA last year) to my 53 coupe truck so I now have external door locks on both doors. i have changed out my 4.1 diff centre for a 3.54 for better highway cruising, but I am yet to install the other 3.54 in my 52 truck. I brought home a good set of bumper guards last year also... but your USA bumper profile is dirrerent to ours here in Oz, so my mate Hank will get a nice gift when I am back in CA for the BBQ in 2020.
    1 point
  12. There's your problem, I think. Check the Kwik Wiring instructions again carefully. I think you will find the #16 red 10 Ga wire goes from the solenoid to the fuse panel to supply power, and the battery negative should go to the same solenoid terminal. Bear in mind that these kits are for 12V negative ground (at least I can't find any mention of a 6V positive ground kit on their website) so you need to bear that in mind, and secondly the wires will all be too thin for a 6V system (halving the voltage doubles the current requirement).
    1 point
  13. Have you had any overheating issues? I have seen more than one piston that looks like this pictured below on high mileage engines. Usually this sounds like a ticking noise and after the engine is running a bit hot.
    1 point
  14. 1 point
  15. I had 5 rims sandblasted and primed by a local outfit, then used rattlecan Rust-Oleum semi-gloss black back in '99, I think the total price was less than $150. These rims have been outside in the TX heat and humidity all these years, and still clean up nice. They aren't show quality, but for the price and durability, it's an effective and economical approach
    1 point
  16. I agree with PA, pull the head and pan and remove #4 and see what you've got. There is a very good chance the top ring has broken, chewed up its groove and is letting small fragments into the combustion chamber which makes a lot of noise. If it is feasible to put a new piston in that hole, then remove the rest of them and see what you have. Used to be, you would take the pistons to a machine shop and have the top grooves trued up and a (Hastings) GL spacer put in, restoring the groove. New rings all round, and put it back together. Quick, relatively cheap and will give good, if not lasting , results. Might run for years .
    1 point
  17. Cam shaft end play checks out ok
    1 point
  18. They are tape. Can't find a pinstriper within 200 miles of me that wants to do it.
    1 point
  19. I picked this up at the local flea market not long back. The man assured me he had no clue if or if not it would run as he has owned it for years and never tried to start the thing. Being a bit familiar with the Model 72 I found it to be 100% complete and with compression. Put gas in it, 16:1 ratio, hit on third kick...running on the 6th...sweet running little engine. Maytag engines have always been a favorite of mine and happy to have found it. Maybe find a Model 92 next.
    1 point
  20. Here's one of the VW relays. I've bought from these guys for a long time. https://www.jbugs.com/product/111941583.html
    1 point
  21. On the 8 bolt I believe the hub has to be machined to accept a non FD pilot bushing. It's not just a swap.
    1 point
  22. The trip to town and back went with no problems. 55mph for 9 miles each way. Big grin.
    1 point
  23. I feel you may be on the right track...time for head removal...further investigation...report your finding....and yes, you can attend to the re-ring from below This was done so many times in the past..referred to as a short overhaul....
    1 point
  24. Might take a real close look at the step up circuit......
    1 point
  25. Many years ago a friend picked up a hot rodded WD pick up with a small block Ford in it. Right away he did the right thing and swapped in a LA series MoPar. 'Course any "will it fit?" conversation must include the Cessna powered '39 Plymouth pick up....
    1 point
  26. I had mine powder coated and don't regret the cost at all.
    1 point
  27. I went to the local west coast big box tire shop (Les Schwab) in January, they charged me $50. per rim (locking rims) to power coat. they offered a few different colors
    1 point
  28. seems like a solution I could live with. thanks.
    1 point
  29. who would want too? Sleep is not a problem with coffee withdraw as I can sleep after consuming 3 pots as easily as having none. Coffee's main effect on me is first the diuretic that it is and second, usually by the second day I may have a mild headache. I try not to ever be without my coffee...
    1 point
  30. I've not tried to cut back myself. I guess I usually drink 6 or so cups a day. The measurement gets me, if I get a cup its 16oz or maybe 20. A man I use to work with drank lots at work, then on the weekend not so much. Was having bad headaches when he was off then realized the reduction in caffeine was the cause. I've quit sodas all together for about 2yrs. I don't know if they are saying coffee is good or bad for you these days. I really don't care, love it will not give it up. Lol
    1 point
  31. Yeah,"Not inexpensive" is one way of saying it.
    1 point
  32. Luckily I am a bodyman by trade so I worked a swap with a friend who has a car dealership and bodyshop. I helped him out of a huge bind by doing a little bodywork for him. In exchange I got to mix up a quart of red urethane single stage and I got the activator and reducer too. Anyone who buys automotive paint knows that anything that is red or has a lot of red in it is extremely expensive. If I would have had to buy the paint and everything outright it might have been far cheaper to powder coat the 5 wheels. As it worked out it only cost me 2 hours of my labor if that. I live in a small town so I have a lot of chances to barter for stuff . Win /Win for me John
    1 point
  33. Mr Insane, I had a full set of 5 rims powder coated gloss black for $180. Nothing more durable, really. NOTHING easier either. Dropped ‘em off, they blasted them, coated them and rang me back when they were ready.
    1 point
  34. I used Nason Urethane single stage on my wheels. Powder coating is more durable but it wasn't an option for me. If you prep the wheels well and apply the paint correctly the finish is both extremely durable and glossy. Sorry, yup they are red but only because I am painting my truck like my Dads was and the wheels on Dads '49 truck were red. John
    1 point
  35. I just use Rustoleum rattle can paint. It's durable enough for my needs, relatively inexpensive, and I can always find the color for when I need to touch up the rims, or repaint them. Powder coating is probably the most durable. I wouldn't know the price range, last time I looked into it was years ago, and it was rather expensive then.
    1 point
  36. Red. Everybody knows you use red paint.
    1 point
  37. just upgraded this weekend from 6.5x 16 Bias to 215/85/16 radials on our B4D
    1 point
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