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What an awesome amount of truck work that was done!!! I didn't get pictures posted yet, but I did save yet another old dodge truck. She was sitting next to a building of similar age that was set to be knocked down. Turns out she was gonna be crushed along with the old building. I pleaded with the owner and got him to sell it to me for 100 bucks and I would haul it out...I called my haul'n buddy and we saved her butt for whatever may come to pass. Maybe parts, maybe its own rebuild....the deal is, I can't stand to see the big ol trucks go down without a fight. I'll post pictures as soon as I can! 48D

I've been a bit busy with night shifts at work, and then packing shipping containers with hospital and school charity items in every bit of my spare time. I did get time to get the blue truck out recently and picked up the 'best old school' trophy at the local NAPA car show. Hopefully the FaceBook link works... https://www.facebook.com/pg/napaautosuperstorelogancity/photos/?tab=album&album_id=10155288563680957

Best thing about these trucks........once you get them right they don't really require much work. ? Put about a pint of oil in it and then drove down to Dana Point and went out fishing for the day. A fun time was had by all. Thanks good old Dodge truck. Jeff

I got a late start. I’m going to work on this beer first.. then we’ll see what happens.

Thanks to the endless help from Brent B3B, I got my '51 B3B running for the first time... on International Work on Your Truck Day! For a guy who claims he's not a mechanic, he sure knows his stuff about these trucks. I really can't thank him enough. B3B_first_start2.MOV

I started mine (forgot to post) and lamented the fact the the fuel gauge no longer works. But it was sure easy to start and idled wonderfully. (Pats self on back for putting in a 6v electric fuel pump). Locked the truck again when I was done cuz I CAN! Cobwebs successfully burned off. Phew! A full day's work indeed.

Dropped a battery in her, added some fresh gas, crossed my fingers, and hit the starter button. This is what happened

Hi everyone. New to this forum and new vintage Dodge owner. I spotted this truck on CL and had to have it - probably paid way too much but it is hard to find anything with a clear title and no back fees. Been burned by the strict DMV rules in California in the past. i just finished an old Jeep project and have done a couple of older Fords in the past. This will be my first endeavor into an older Dodge - looking forward to all of the help that a forum like this can provide. The PO listed it as a 3/4 ton but it has to be a 1 ton from everything I can tell. Has 132” wheel base and running boards that go all the way back to the rear wheels so it began life as a pickup. The Body is very solid - no rust or patches that I have been able to spot. Typical dents and dings that you would expect to find on a work truck. Seems to be fairly complete and original. Someone did convert to 12 volt at some point in the past. Evidence suggests that it came from Northern Ca. Probably the Redding area. Still undecided what the future will bring for her. I prefer to keep my projects as stock as possible. I was able to get the engine running - will pull it out and do a partial tear down to see what condition it is in. Appears to be the original 4 speed and rear end - I will check those for wear before deciding a direction to go in. From everything I have read, parts for a 1 ton can be hard to find.

Linseed oil will soak in and keep it from decay . It won't peel off because it doesn't stay on the surface .

Former taxi?? RUN AWAY... Brakes will need complete overhaul...front suspension might track as true as Otis Campbell on a Saturday night...leaks and rot around glass will take a lot of elbow grease to fix...and the smell? Ya may have to dip the whole thing in diesel and tap it with a road flare to get that stench to go away... This thing is a basket case that will take a labor of love to make it presentable, and that is always a net loss proposition ?

Yay! I remembered to participate this year and I had a free Saturday morning to wash and detail my truck, getting it ready for MOPAR ALLEY next Sunday!

You can also use a vacuum gauge to set your timing. I am running about 6 degrees advance on my modified engine ( milled head for higher compression) that is where the vacuum gauge timing method gave me the highest reading at idle. There is a second bolt on the bottom of the dist that all a bit more rotation. There is a slotted hole n the hold down bracket that will find another 15 to 20 degrees of movement. Today's gas has a slower flame front than the stuff the factory set specs for. It goes whoomph the real gas went bang, so a bit of advance for an earlier light of is not a bad thing.

Run the timing up till it pings under high load, back off until ping goes away, back off another 2 degrees. That should get you super close as long as it starts well. If is doesn't start well (too advanced) back off accordingly. Specs from 60+ years ago should only be used as a baseline, fuel has changes A LOT since especially octane ratings and burn rates. Set it to where the engine is happiest and who cares what the actual number is. Adam

Ford's first air bag testing.

I have been dissastified using the original type 55 bulbs in the dash. I opted to use type 63. They only draw an additional 20mA each but provide over twice the candlepower. I even went one step further and purchased one of these to try. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Plymouth-1946-1947-1948-extra-bright-tail-light-bulb-63-replacement-6-volt-63/161410757417?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 I changed the left bulb and have ordered another to replace the 63 in the right position. I am very satisfied! It worked VERY well ! One can definitely see the color change of the speedo as you accelerate!!

the fuel pump is operated from a camshaft lobe specific for the fuel pump

Thanks for your input. installed the new pump, fixed a leak or two. Runs pretty well. I had lot of “advise” to add/change to an electric pump. I hope to upgrade to 12 volt once it’s running , I feel that would have added another layer of unnecessary complexity.

Why do you want to spend all that money for forged pistons in a low rpm/low stress engine?

Cute little buggers, aren't they? That's pretty cool, thanks for posting!

So do they split the co pay or do they have a good supplemental policy??? Might even get a few bucks back if they file for a reimbursement.

I have six cars, all six volt positive ground . Original charging equipment. No problems with standard group 1 and group 2 lead acid batteries. Only normal maintenance required. All start well as long as fuel has reached the carburetor. I have gotten as little as three years but as much as eleven years of service from the batteries. I see no reason to change anything. Having said that, the alternator is an improvement from an engineering standpoint and the Optima is a good battery but only rarely do these justify the expense ( in my opinion).

This might or might not help.

Couple of observations... 1. I see 8 nuts, 2 bolts, and 2 studs that came out with the nuts. That equals 12. There should be 13, so I'm thinking you missed one. 2. The conical nuts/washers are installed incorrectly on the two studs shown. The cone side of the nut should fit into the cupped side of the thick washer. 3. To answer your question about the ends of the bolts... These bolts/studs go into the water jacket, so the ends have corroded off due to the coolant exposure. When you reassemble, use thread sealant on the bolts and studs. Not all go into the water jacket, but many of them do.

as promised...pictures...it rained pretty much the whole time I was out, I maybe had a half hour tops at one point that I wasn't getting drizzled on at least. Ed hooked me up with some extensions, and Tim is going to at some point as well, but I figured having more options is better than having none! I also dug thru the trucks from last visit and pulled some parts to have for others: Model 61 heater, speedo, accessory pod, some more knobs (yes, Brent I owe ya pics soon), some B1 horn button parts and a fuel pump. They had this sitting there looking for a new home, $1100. But he's got some BAD cancer.

OK, OK, I just have to bite the bullet.... I'll order at Bernbaums , together with new brake parts and see how to get this steel in Belgium as cheap as possible or my wife will kill me...

would you believe this... I once had a Volvo amazon... The first thing I had to buy was a box of imperial size wrenches... :-)

I went picking for the fender extensions and picked up a power wagon grill. Pictures to follow.

I've had the rear fenders painted for a couple years now but never finished up with the cut and buff so yesterday I got one out and went to work on it. Started out with 1000 grit and worked my way up to 3000, followed by rubbing compound and the buffer. I may even get the other one out and do it up later this week.

Rolled Roxanne into the driveway at the crack of dawn to polish and wax her all over (she likes that) then drove her into town for the Fort Collins Old Town Car Show. Rox was the only Dodge truck at the show. Plenty of Ferds 'n Chebbies, two GMC and two Internationals. I gave her a First Place award in her class.

Well Ed, I did sort of work on my truck too... Not really working on my truck, but more working around my truck as I got my garage squared away after wrapping up a couple other projects. Part of that required clearing off the things that accumulate on top of my truck. I love my touneau cover, but it creates a great flat surface to collect things.

Yeah when I pulled the drain plug and about 10oz of water came out first I knew it didn't matter no fear, when I do it for real I'll be over gravel..... LOL

two years in a row I failed to work on my truck ........yesterday, I had the day off and practiced tearing apart the parts transmission (practicing for the B4D) I really didn't do much today on mine........... put on the lower door pans on "Rob" I am so lazy! (Think i'll take tomorrow off )

Not sure if I should applaud Merle for helping or give him crap that it's work on your truck day not work on someone else's truck day....

I replaced the fuel pump in the old Fargo today. The truck was idling nicely when I took this photo.

First let me say Pflaming you are doing your grandson a tremendous service! I speak from experience as my father asked me when I was 14 if I wanted a car when I was 16 and of course I said yes. He said great, there is a pile of parts to make a 1960 VW bug over there - get to work! I learned a lot and all these years later still love tinkering with cars and rebuilding them. Today on my truck I worked on the brakes and installed my new spark plug ever drys along with finishing up my tie rod and drag link. Another step closer...

I shared a bit of history last summer – Pilot-House Friends thread that Merle initiated. See that if you’re interested. Following a brief burst of life after 35 years of sitting, the truck has been laid up since early Nov ’17 with rear brake cylinder leak. (Hindsight is clear: all cylinders should have been replaced right from the get-go. Mistake one was not doing that. Mistake two was not replacing rears when fronts were done. Lesson learned). A few other things needed attention so I spent the winter addressing those. I’m close to ready for a reveal and will share more soon. Merle stopped by this morning to provide a bit of education and share his talents (and tools). Cylinders replaced in short order – goes quick when you know what you’re doing. Will be getting shoes relined and drums cleaned up this week. I’m anxious to get the truck back on the road. Several projects are hanging that need the truck and I want to drive it again!!!!!!

OK, I am located in Germany, so I think I meet International ?! Rule 1.: Working on MY 1939 PT81 - changed the rear end ratio from 4.11 to 3.73 Rule 2.: After month of search I finally got a 3.73 diff which fits to my truck. Unfortunately I was delivered by an old wrinkled man, not the nice post office girl ? Rule 3.: see below Rule 4.: I got my truck 4 1/2 years ago. Has been 15 years in a barn in Iowa until a friend found it. He needed something to fill the shipping container (he`s more a Ford guy, sorry). So this was my chance !!! He wasn`t really interested in, today he could cry (hahaha, he will not get it back) The only PT81 in Germany then (today probably 3). What inspires me: I felt in love with the nose ?. The technique anyway ... Rule 5.: Took a lot of research what differential parts will fit into the truck pumpkin. A forum guy of Minnesota which also owns a PT had the same problem. We interchanged our research results and finally both got 3.73 gears which fits to the truck`s pumpkin. Plug and play. Will post the essence, soon. Rules fulfilled ?!

Out of curiosity, I would take them apart and look at the membranes. If these are original pumps from 50s, all chances are that rubber membranes deteriorated - too stretched out or torn. A new membrane can be cut out of proper material. Now they make stuff compatible with ethanol. Old membranes were not designed for ethanol.

Two years ago I sold my 48 Plymouth coupe. Began looking for something to get started on again. When I mentioned it to my wife she pointed out that I really don't have an adequate place to build another car and she was right. She also pointed out that with my work travel schedule I really don't have time to build another car either and she was right again I hate when that happens. So, my response was "then I will buy one that is already done". Of course that was not the reaction that she was looking for, but agreed. But, the joke is on her because as you know they are never done. Had two absolute must criteria for a purchase. 1) Car must be a Mopar and 2) Must have Mopar running gear. Those criteria limited availability of potential candidates. However, I think I found a good one. 37 Plymouth Business Coupe with a 360 Magnum, 727, Vintage Air, Butch's Cool Stuff complete front suspension, Power Disc Brakes, Nice Paint and Interior. I'm not really digging the interior color, but it was well done and I can live with it for a while. Flew to Detroit to get the car and drove it back home to Dallas with a side trip to Joplin to visit my mom for a couple of days. It does need some transmission work, but other than that it ran and drove great over the 1300 mile trip.

I have removed several front bearings with out tearing the trans down if that's the only issue. Front input shaft bearings are a common noisy high wear item. .....I just remove the bearing retainer .....Remove the input shaft (smaller) snap ring and tanged washer behind it .....Pull the input shaft and bearing out as far as you can ( usually only a 1/16" ) to get a couple wedges behind the bearing snap ring ( I use 2 Screw drivers) under the outside of the bearing snap ring .....Use a rawhide mallet or brass/copper hammer .....Lightly tapping on the input shaft while wedging the bearing off the input shaft using different bigger tapered wedges between the bearing snap ring and front of case. NOTE.... don't try to remove the input shaft... you cannot remove the shaft with out pulling the lower cluster gear! This for Strut type syncro transmissions. Late style Pin Type the shaft will pull out. Just another way of doing this job if you have decent mechanical skills!

The ignition in my car has a cover over the coil and ammeter wires. I figure some sort of anti theft device. The third terminal which is much longer sticks through the cover and then powers all the accesories.