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I have received approval for DMV to utilize an original 1947 Louisiana license plate! I have owned the plate for probably 20 years but only recently looked into registering vehicle with the plate. After a couple simple requirements I received a new registration today with my new/old licence plate! Plus it is good indefinitely! I have just recently started driving it regularly. I am now semi retired and now have time to drive and enjoy. I have owned it for almost 30 years. Here are few pictures of my car along with my new license plate!!

After months of hiding her from my girlfriend, I finally confessed to her about getting another car. Mainly because I brought it home and couldn’t hide it from her. She’s not 100% original but she’s mine now.

We recently came across this Chrysler New Yorker deluxe with a fire power motor and yes it belongs to us now. Yes we have projects going on like the special deluxe but we put it on hold since it is far from being done and put it in storage. We focused on our truck which we are having our 235 motor machined right now. No its not a Dodge as you can tell by the numbers I just mentioned. Sorry its not a Dodge but its a good truck its just something that we know we can make it look nice and get it up and running so we can sale to buy a lot more Dodge's. Like our new recent find.... The New Yorker deluxe. We were told it is a 1944 but we believe its a 1954. We just went along with what the guy had said because he had no idea what he had under the hood. He said it runs but that is yet to be seen. We will let you know when we get around to it. It might be a while. We are just happy it is complete trim, hub cabs, interior, and everything. Only thing missing keys and visor....... Just wanted to touch base with everyone.

Are you aware of this switch located under the dash to the right of the steering wheel. This switch is for adjustment of the dash light brightness. It is a two position switch one for dim and the other for dimmer.

I have been dissastified using the original type 55 bulbs in the dash. I opted to use type 63. They only draw an additional 20mA each but provide over twice the candlepower. I even went one step further and purchased one of these to try. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Plymouth-1946-1947-1948-extra-bright-tail-light-bulb-63-replacement-6-volt-63/161410757417?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 I changed the left bulb and have ordered another to replace the 63 in the right position. I am very satisfied! It worked VERY well ! One can definitely see the color change of the speedo as you accelerate!!

I found this image of a NOS dip stick exactly like the one on my engine . Note the thick felt gasket that contacts the block . The felt gasket is hollowed out to go over the wide part of the dip stick .

Spirit air depart Thurs return Sunday 153.00 round trip. Book it, you can sleep on our couch!!! https://www.travelocity.com/Flight-Information?continuationId=e0f6466d-5cc9-4cf8-b849-b351ad9e3048&rfrr=&superlativeMessages[0]=BV,CP&superlativeMessages[1]=BV,CP&udpDisplayMode=showhotelbanneronly

I shared a bit of history last summer – Pilot-House Friends thread that Merle initiated. See that if you’re interested. Following a brief burst of life after 35 years of sitting, the truck has been laid up since early Nov ’17 with rear brake cylinder leak. (Hindsight is clear: all cylinders should have been replaced right from the get-go. Mistake one was not doing that. Mistake two was not replacing rears when fronts were done. Lesson learned). A few other things needed attention so I spent the winter addressing those. I’m close to ready for a reveal and will share more soon. Merle stopped by this morning to provide a bit of education and share his talents (and tools). Cylinders replaced in short order – goes quick when you know what you’re doing. Will be getting shoes relined and drums cleaned up this week. I’m anxious to get the truck back on the road. Several projects are hanging that need the truck and I want to drive it again!!!!!!

Congratulations on getting to use your antique license plate on your antique car. I love the idea of a vintage car having a vintage license plate of the same year. Kansas has a similar program—the license plate can be of the year of manufacture of the vehicle, or newer, but not older (that seems to make obvious sense . . .). There the license plate remains with the car until it’s sold, at which time the plate is removed, and it has to transferred separately, or if the seller wishes to keep the old license plate, the new owner has to acquire an appropriate vintage license plate, or get a regular antique plate. We have a '47 Kansas plate on the front of the car, even tho' we don't live there right now. PS—VERY nice car, by the way!!!

Very nice looking Plymouth! And congrats on getting the YOM plate approved. Here in Maine, if the vehicle is registered as an antique, all you have to do is put reasonably serviceable YOM plates on the car, and keep the "new" ones in the vehicle in case the Po-po need to see them. Had our D24 registered in 5 States now, this is by far the easiest to run YOM plates in.

very cool...…..I did the same thing here in Pa for my 50 Ply wagon...….put on a 1950 plate.

Looks very nice! If I had a girlfriend and was forced to hide things---it would be her in the trunk!??

Super looking Plymouth. It's the same color as the one I had in 1961. Mine had a tried engine but kept going as long as I kept filling it up with oil.? John R

very nice. still have the girlfriend?

Good luck with it. Hope all your surprises are good ones.

Correct name for that key is a woodruff key so when you go to the hardware store they will know what you are looking for.

I'm old,so I do things the easy way these days. When I need wheels and tires to move a old car that has bad tires that won't hold air,I just go to the local crusher and buy tires already mounted on wheels and holding air for 10 bucks each. I have actually bought mounted radial whitewalls for 10 bucks each that had been full-sized spares and never mounted on the car. Not a bad price for new tires already mounted on wheels. Don't worry about the locating pin. Just take your drill and drill a hole in each new wheel for the pin to fit though.

The long dip stick in the photo below is for a long block flathead Desoto. As you can see it has. a cup that covers the tube. The other stick is from a P-15 and is naked.

I accomplished the same with my Dodge. Didn't think I'd get to do it as Alaska is a two plate state and they only made one in 47and it is made of soy. I made a replica and the DMV director personally approved it. Mine is also permanent.

Thanks enjoy!

These folks http://www.mykmlifestyle.com/1938_Chrysler_Fuel_Sender.html are the licensee of Atwater Kent which made them Oem back in the day. I bought one from them and am happy with it.

That's a beautiful Plymouth. The license plate is the icing on the cake!

Awesome! Drive and enjoy!

You could advance a little more without an issue. I believe I'm running close to 5 BTDC. The vacuum advance on these works on ported vacuum, so with the throttle closed there should be no vacuum on the advance unit. You could disconnect and plug the line if you'd like, but as long as you have the proper idle setting it really isn't necessary.

This morning I picked up a stash of parts, enough to build two VW's, and one body, and one pan. I paid $80.00 for everything. From these I will teach my grandson how to build his own school car using the kit car frame I spent $100 on including fuel to get it, and I will build a dune buggy. Note, truck in use!

A 68 Dart would be perfect! More room than you think...its the body panels that are smaller not the interior so much. Plus it would fit in the semi...... 48D

"So how do I tune this truck?" In general: do a normal tune-up for an internal combustion engine. Bring the ignition system together first. plug gap/ignition timing/breaker point gap/dwell/breaker arm tension...... Check float height: 5/8 inch Carb circuits: float level/idle rpm/idle circuit/accel-pump adjustment (power piston)/fast idle Check the unloader tension arm for the choke Use the nut plug over #6 to find top dead center and max vacuum pull. Depending on the year or use or preference its 2deg BTC or 0deg BTC. Minimum idle speed is 450 to 500 RPMS Resistor plugs need more gap: 0.035 vs non resistor @ 0.025 Your tappets need to be adjusted. Good to try that while running. Can be done not running. Intake 0.008 Exhaust 0.010 Double check float height for starvation Double check vacuum pull Double check the unloader Double check the valves for loose adjustments Double check the nut above #6 after your done checking vacuum and timing Check throttle connections Check choke connections let'er rip 48D P.S. Triple check the damn sparkplug wires for proper location.

Okay, yes I mis -spoke. I AM interested in doing the very best job I can. A fender all beat to crap and dimpled from hammer tracks is not what I want, NO WAY. I want it like the best of the best would do it. A sniff of bondo if that. Has anyone ever heard of NOS rear fenders available?

I try to use the mid line pads....reasoning...something has to wear if breaking to be effective, I'd rather replace inexpensive pads than use the harder composition/metallic pads that will cut and wear your rotors...rotors on the average are a tad more money.... while out this afternoon the left rear caliper started dragging.....got very hot....let it cool a bit...rocked side to side to establish a clearance, used the trailer brakes to get to my destination hoping upon hope not to have to use the truck brakes. Delivered the car, brought the truck home on the trailer for safety sake...I am not upset, 15 years is a healthy jaunt on the braking...

Pee? You can still pee?

All right got the fuel-cell in today and fired it up for the first time since I replaced all the hoses and the water pump and the gas tank and a bunch of other stuff here's a quick vid

Close-up of the blue bells. They look more like purple here. My camera somehow threw off the color. ?

Actually that was my grandfather's DeSoto, he had two of them, that green 56 which was really my grandmother's , and a white 56, he bought them both new, dad did have a 57 DeSoto adventurer with the 345 Hemi, he used to race that and Island Dragway all the time too, I come from a very long line of mopar people, on both sides of my family actually

Eventually I want to drop a polyhead in it, I think, or I may go the other way, and just do a work up on the flatty, I just love the way the old flatheads run, if I can get it reliable enough and back it up with a modern transmission so I can get some decent highway speed out of it I may just keep it

Went to the DMV yesterday to register the coupe with an original 1947 license plate. Before I went I phoned and was told that I had to have a front plate. In 47 they only made one plate and it was made out of soy. I came up with the bright idea to make one out of an old clipboard. It looks similar to the soyboard but stronger. I had a sign maker paint it and digtally reproduce the lettering and numbers. The very nice lady that I dealt with at the DMV told me that the oldest plate that they had codes for was 69 and that replica plates were not allowed. When I told her that they only made one plate per car for 47 she went to her supervisor. They called the DMV director, who looked at photos of the replica and original and said do it. He'd personally put a note in my file saying that he authorized it. They also phoned the main DMV to get a code to enter the year in the computer. While I was there I permanently registered it for an additional $30. That way I will not face a hassle in the future. 1st is the original, 2nd and 3rd are the copies. I'm going to keep the original soyboard one in the glovebox and run both replicas until they tell me that I can't.

I will agree that the dual carb / cast iron headers with dual exhaust through short 14 inch I believe turbo style mufflers made a noticable difference in the performance of my coupe. When I moved them from the 218 to the 230 along with the aluminum head there was a significant seat of the pants improvement.

I've bought a few NOS filters cuz I thought they made interesting items in my display case. Painted logos, chrome plated filter cases, stylized product boxes...them things are all a thing of the past with the advent of laser printing, zinc plating and generic packaging. These filters have leather & cork seals with paper elements. The leather & cork are not flexible, neither are the paper parts, so I reckon they would not be as effective as a filter with newer materials. I'd say that leather gaskets were obsolete, but Colorado Rawhide still sells 1-ton pinion seals made of that organic matter, complete with correct seal material preparation instructions. I did some valve adjustments on the '48 years ago, and used some NOS cork valve cover gaskets...those decades-old cork gaskets eventually fell apart, so I replaced them with some newer-style rubber gaskets. But it was a messy lesson to learn. I see the NOS stuff up for grabs for some good $$$ and all I see are display items or someone's future messy lesson