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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/25/2018 in all areas

  1. I think a lot of it has to do with "it's a mail order world and they never see most of their customers". The "reproduction" radiator I bought for my 51 Ford 6 cylinder coupe came in with a neck the original 4 psi cap wouldn't fit,and the bottom radiator hose extension was shaped wrong. I had to cut it and use bent exhaust pipe to be able to use it. When I called the manufacturer to tell him about this and complain,he just said "Oh,yeah. We changed the necks to modern necks a while back,and a modern 16 psi cap will go right on it." When I told him I had bought it from him and paid him over 500 bucks for it BECAUSE it was advertised as an exact duplicate of the original and I wanted to run an original radiator cap,he just said "Sorry,we don't make those anymore." When I told him about the lower hose and fuel pump conflict,he just laughed and told me I would have to modify it. I used it is spite of this because the radiator came from a company on the left coast,and I live on the east coast. If he had been within a few hundred miles of me and laughed,he wouldn't be laughing any more until he got out of the hospital. I COULD have sent it back to him and waiting for a refund and then ordered the 700 dollar radiator from The Brass Works,but I didn't want to wait another month or two before I could drive the car,so I used it,and am still mad about it. It has been my experience in life that retailers that screw me do NOT laugh at me when I show up in person with a beef.
    2 points
  2. I think they all have a belt moulding/trim. I've never seen one without it. The difference in the fender trim is deluxe or super deluxe. Mine is a bare bones deluxe, has trim only on the front fenders.
    1 point
  3. I saw my cousin beating on a crank pulley once. The next thing I saw was the pulley lying on the floor, with the end of the crank in it. True story.
    1 point
  4. Make sure the pictured hole in your master cylinder is not plugged. The fill cap for the master cylinder is vented so no pressure can build up.
    1 point
  5. Why not ask your DMV before taking the car for inspection if there's a chance they'll question the numbers? You may need to speak with an experienced clerk or supervisor, as many only know about their State's requirements AFTER vehicle identification numbers were standardized by Federal law, or they may even have a clerk that specializes in such things, doesn't hurt to ask. If a change is in order they may give you an option which number to use, personally, I would opt for the serial number, easier to read, easier to prove...also because I have over 30 years experience in identifying false documents, in part by comparing numbers and letters, and that number in question is a 5, not a 6, so that number is not correct on the title. Neither number will "conform", and they'll have to override it anyway, every States' motor vehicle registration program allows for older cars that are still on the road. I've dealt with such things with the DMV in five different States, (including Texas, where my brother retired as a Trooper and is now a Sheriff's Deputy), some clerks wig out a little because it's outside the lines or their comfort zone, but I've always left with what I needed.
    1 point
  6. First thing I'd check would be to make sure the return port is being uncovered when the pedal returns. To little free play between linkage and piston could block that.
    1 point
  7. ...of course that will vary with each state.
    1 point
  8. I push them on with a special crank bolt I made. Pounding them on can damage the rear crank thrust bearing... I say can.. not will? These hubs can fit pretty tight onto the crank.
    1 point
  9. Should be snug but installed by hand only. Put the keyway in after mounting usually by tapping it in. Maybe the PO mushroomed the front edge of the crank.
    1 point
  10. He was asking BECAUSE he wasn't sure it was a match. I'm not,either. Looks like a 5 to me. Look at the upper left corner on the number some people see as a "6",and you will see a "90 degree peak" like the number "5". What I once did in a similar situation was to just get a new title from the old one,and then a few months later notify the state there there was a typo on the new title,and gave them the correct number. No problem. They just sent me a new matching title. That is NOT something you can count on happening,but it is an option. If your DMV questions it and send out an inspector,just show them the number in question and ask them if they can see how it could have been seen two different ways by a previous inspector. No guarantee,but most are reasonable men with experience in the field,and there ain't much they haven't seen. This won't be anything new to them. Back in the "bad old days" new titles weren't scanned. Someone sat behind a typewriter 8 hours a day and typed that crap out. No matter how diligent and skilled you are,sooner or later you are going to make a typo. Even IF the inspector were to see a "6" instead of a "5" or a "5" instead of a "6",you would just get a new title with that number on it,and that would be counted as a certification of correct numbers from your state. On the other hand,if they want to play reindeer games,tell them to take up their bitch with the DMV from the state that issued it,not you,because YOU are not responsible for what some state typist or DMV inspector mistake. Unless they see obvious fraud like overstamps,you are going to get a title. DMV's are in the business of selling license plates and collecting taxes,not bullying taxpayers.
    1 point
  11. Thanks Guys Just enjoying the feedback and R&D and yes we love these old engines ...cant hurt having a little fun with a bit of Art and a little bit of performance The background behind the development of the manifolds was a result of two brother over a few beers waging each other who would go faster...one with a 23 inch and the other with a 25 inch block ...no radical engine builds....carb/cam/exhaust/intake manifold combos allowed BUT...needed to be done tastefully...no 9 inch grinder with welded hacked manifolds. One of the brothers is an Senior Engineer... AUTOCAD/CASTING/Modelling ...bla blah blah....Vs the other brother who is a car guy engine builder with plenty of run/ blown/build experience R&D the grass roots way Fun and games .....:)...Will post some of the other items soon that will be tested
    1 point
  12. I like to see these old beasts close to factory original, but I've seen vintage pictures of trucks being used as workhorses and I can appreciate certain modifications made to optimize performance. So if a truck has mods that are period correct, such as dual carbs or even a 2bbl carb + a dual exhaust kit, I can live with that... I can also appreciate how important it is from a safety standpoint to keep these old trucks reliable and not causing accidents from stalling. I have stalled out from a blown condenser at the end of my driveway, which was durn lucky...years later, I stalled at a controlled highway intersection and things got dicey for a few minutes until I could get back underway because I did not have bright emergency flashers to get other drivers' attention. So improvements like electronic ignition and brighter signal lights with additional turn signals / flashers can be subtle enough to get a pass from me as they are intended for safety and not showing off. And with the advent of solid-state electronics, the factory radio option can be updated with IC board to replace the tubes, etc and even add an mp3 port...the look of the original radio with modern features that can be hidden from view
    1 point
  13. Make sure you use one of the modern anti-freeze mixes that are rated to use with aluminum radiators.
    1 point
  14. my b3b had the wrong bench seat bottom in it. I pulled the frame and took it to the upholsters and had him make the seat fit the frame. he built it on a plywood base.... I fabricated up some metal adjustment slots to attach it to.... that thing is solid!
    1 point
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