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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/23/2018 in all areas
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I bought a brand new fuel gauge sending unit from one of the well known Pilothouse suppliers and decided to check it out with an ohmmeter before installing it. According to the supplier, the ohms for Pilothouse trucks should range roughly between 10 and 100 ohms as the wiper arm slides along the resistance wire. But all I got were completely erratic readings or no reading at all on my ohmmeter. I had purchased the part two years ago and the supplier wouldn't take it back so I decided to take the unit apart and see why it failed. There were two problems. First of all, the brass wiper arm was turned 180 degrees around and was making no contact with the coil of resistance wire! I turned the arm around to make contact with the wire coil. Second, the resistance wire was so loosely wound around the white nylon insulator that when the wiper arm moved up and down, the wire would move around with it! Because the resistance wire would not stay put, of course the resistance readings were totally erratic. Here's how I fixed it. First, I poked around on the loose resistance wire to try to space it out more or less evenly. Then, in order to prevent the wire from moving around, I got some crazy glue from Ace Hardware and dropped a bead along the bottom of the wire coil (opposite where the wiper arm contacts the wire of course). After that, I retested the unit and now get smooth variation from 10 to 86 ohms which should be close enough. I am not sure if most sending units work this way, but if they do, poor quality control in manufacturing can definitely cause erratic fuel quantity readings from brand new sending units. Is anything made with quality in the good old USA anymore?2 points
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Early on I had issues with replacement point sets. Not spring related........ but quality of the contacts themselves. Saw a far amount of material transfer on 3 different sets I tried. I found this unacceptable and put in a Pertronix module with a matched coil. I drive my truck every day and it never fails to run well with this set up. Jeff2 points
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From time to time people have inquired what are correct engine part colors, as well as other various colors such as inside the trunk, underside of hood, etc regarding the 46-49 Plymouth P15. I found a list I had saved (which may be posted someplace on this web site).....but I did not happen onto it. SO.....I posted the list in the Tech Archives section to make it available to anyone who might find it useful. I think many of those color uses apply to most of the 40s and early 50s old Mopar cars.2 points
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Cant trust them newfangled things, just ain't natural I tell ya!!! No movin parts, must be magic er sumpin!!! :^D1 point
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I only have a few of each spring left now, so I'm probably best to keep them for my own needs. Joe's Auto Door Lock Springs goes by the user name whiterivertreasure on Ebay. and he seems to have a supply of springs... https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1935-1936-late-Dodge-Chrysler-Plymouth-DeSoto-Door-Lock-Latch-Repair-Springs/132626310268?hash=item1ee124e47c:g:xQ8AAOSwDNdVrBG5 … I haven't really seen anyone else who has been selling these springs.1 point
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Maybe this will help you -> http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/tech_tips.html/ If you don`t have the oilpan already installed and the engine eventually on a stand, you may watch the specific cam of the camshaft. The cam lobe should roughly be opposite the lifter on the valve you are adjusting. Just if you should be uncertain.1 point
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Engine number correlates to a 53 truck motor ... My mechanic and I are debating the curve on the 5 vs the mystery 6 ... He says oval vs round , I say they look alike ..1 point
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I have purchased another Chrysler 6! I ran across a collector who is beginning to downsize. He had this 53 Windsor for sale. It runs and drives, but needs brakes. Pump twice and they are there. It has and base coat/ clear coat paint job that the clear is peeling badly! I will see if there is any hope of sanding just the clear coat remaining off without removing the base. From what i have read not too much hope of that happening. Anyone have any great tricks to try? Probably not much to lose. On the good side it has a nice running 265!! Original thought was that i was going to pull the 265 and put in a 251 that i have, but not so sure now! Interior is not great, but i think some new seat covers will make it a driver. I can pick it up in a couple weeks and maybe have some time to see if it was a good deal. By the way the pictures are flattering to the paint at this point. Give me your thoughts!1 point
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If ya need less than a full stick, ya might could call'm up and see if they could send ya a 12 inch sample for validation purposes...sometimes they do, sometimes they don't...1 point
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I think I have told this on this site once before. My brother and I bought a '41 Plymouth (with only 38,000 miles )in '65 from its original owner. The lady (husband had died and she was in her late 70's) decided that she was no longer a safe driver. When we got the car home, we cleaned it front to back and took out the rear seat to make sure that there were no mice nests. There, we found a large pair of "granny panties." My brother, being the joker he is put them in a bag and brought them back to the lady. She opened the bag, laughed and said, "I wondered where those went. My husband used my old panties to wax the car." Later, we had the car up on a lift to rebuild the master cylinder. There we found a Chrysler Corp. box end wrench with the main brake line running through it to the MC. Whoever installed the brake line at the factory grabbed the box end rather than a line-wrench and did not take the brake line off to remove the box end. We put the box end back in place after rebuilding the MC and told the next owner about it when we sold the car. One last note on that car. The original owners bought the car and a "vacation package" at the local dealer. What that entailed was Plymouth set them up with a hotel room where the car was built (Detroit?) and told them when to be there. Once there, a tour guide walked them through the assembly line as their car was put together. When finished, they took delivery, put a tow bar on it, and towed it back to Texas behind a Model A - they didn't want to put those miles on their new car. Can you imagine a car company doing a "vacation package" today?1 point
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Personally I would stay away from water-based polyurethane, even if it says it's for exterior use; an old school approach would be good old spar varnish. Or you could go high tech and find the best brush-on clear the wooden boat guys are using these days.1 point
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ha, cool idea. still, i hope you don't have to touch those fittings too often later on :)1 point
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My car had pinholes in the gas line over the arch. It would run fine, but when it sat with less than half a tank of gas the gas would drain from the high point in the line and then the pump would suck air and not pump the gas. I had to pour gas into the carb to start it. Don Coatney told me to look for a leak in the line and when I pulled the rear wheel I could see that the line had been seeping gas, not enough to make a puddle. I replaced the entire line and in the process found a couple of more pinhole leaks that were buried in grease and gunk where the gas line goes under the front of the engine to the pump. Since replacing the line I have had no starting problems. Check the rubber line connecting to the pump also.1 point
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If you click on the "Store" tab in the header of this page it will bring you to a link for making donations to the forum.1 point
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Check the fuel line, especially where it goes over the rear axle arch. If there is a pinhole leak there the car will run as long as the level of fuel in the tank is above the pinhole. But when the fuel level is low the fuel pump sucks air through the pinhole and won’t pump gas.1 point
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"Ran out" of gas again. 11 gallons filled it up. So there is roughly 6 gallons in the tank when it goes empty. I'm thinking the entire fuel pickup has come loose inside the tank.1 point
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Patina on toy cars-- does that make them more collectible than nice paint like some cars/trucks?? DJ1 point
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Michael Warshaw to Classic MoPar: The Early Years - Through '62 3 hrs · As many of you know my company VINTAGE AMERICAN AUTO PARTS reproduces many things for your plymouth / MoPar car and truck I just received the tooling for producing brake drums.. In a few months time new rear brake drums will be available for your Plymouth cars with 10" drums. IF YOU NEED NOS PARTS OR NEW PARTS CALL OR EMAIL US WE HAVE YOU COVERED INSIDE AND OUT. 516 233 7788 MIKE@MOPARPRO.COM WWW.MOPARPRO.COM JOIN OUR MAILING LIST FOR SPECIAL OFFER DISCOUNTS AND NEW PRODUCTS. Like Comment1 point
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One of the guys on the forum had this problem . He found that he had left out a separate spring that was found still in the box . Not all of the point sets have this separate spring though . His points were floating at higher RPM ' s .1 point
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November is anniversary. Three different forum software suppliers over the years and we are almost at 10,000 registered members.1 point
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check your spring tension arm on the points for proper tension ......sounds like it may be floating...1 point
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Yes, Old Chevy's used the Rochester. I did try one on my Dodge flathead once and it did bolt right up and seemed to work just fine.1 point
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you have probably seen the resources already http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/blueprints/index.htm but, it is one of my favorite places to visit so I am posting it again1 point
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I think Tim (48D) should buy it and make it a bunk house for his annual party.1 point