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Hi Guys, New to the forum . Just wanted to share one of my projects. Just completed the intake castings for my triple carb for my Windsor C25 coupe. Just interested to know what members recommend in terms of Carbies to use. Just wanted some feedback , before i start machining them. I will also be casting a duel carb setup for both the 25 and 23 inch block ( I own a few early dodge brother projects). Also any experience with triple setups and what to watch out for would be appreciated. I designed them so there are no flat areas for fuel to gather and have a direct path into the cylinders. Tkxs

They are the same here in Australia... but who knows what crazy stuff they do over there in USA ?

I know this is an eight-year-old string, but it was helpful to me. The biggest thing I learned from these posts was that I had to be patient, and I took it to heart. Here is my journey. January 2018 I started working on a 1949 Chrysler Windsor Highlander that had been setting for 12 years. After doing the brakes, I turned to the engine. It was toward the end of February. I only had compression in the #2 cylinder. I poured Marvel Mystery Oil down the spark plug holes. After a couple of weeks, I got compression in #5. I continued with Marvel for a couple more weeks, but no luck. March 31 I pulled the head. Intake valves on #1 and #4 were open. Exhaust valves on #3 and #6 were open. I started alternating between three kinds of lubricant on the valves: Marvel Mystery Oil, ATF/Acetone mixture, and WD-40. I took a rubber mallet and tried to bang the open valves down. I always made sure the opposite valve was up. For example, I turned the engine over by hand until the intake on #3 was open, then I took the rubber mallet and banged on the #3 exhaust. Eventually, I was able to get the exhaust on #3 and the intake on #4 to go down. #4 started to work after two or three times of banging the intake down, turning the engine over, and repeating. The #3 exhaust took a couple of days of lubricating and banging. The intake on #1 and the exhaust on #6 proved to be more of a challenge. The rubber mallet didn't move them at all. I eventually turned to a 16oz ball peen hammer. My greatest fear was bending the valves. I used the ball end of the hammer and was extremely careful to hit the center of the valve. I lubricated and tapped them down more times than I can count. Once the spring started to "suck" the valve down, I switched back to the rubber mallet. The #6 exhaust valve was so hard to tap down, I thought the valve would NEVER loosen up. However, a day came when it gave the slightest hint that the spring was starting to "suck" it down. On April 14 the #1 intake started opening and closing on its own. On April 29, the #6 exhaust valve started opening and closing on its own. I put the head back on and started it up May 1, 2018. Again, thanks for all the prior posts! Valves.mov

I've been using a Fleet Farm battery for years $59. It sits all winter in the car. https://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/farm-rated-tractor-truck-6v-battery-24-mo-640-cca/0000000235146

I must admit when I bought the D-link DCS-936L wi-fi cam, on sale for $65 I was skeptical. I took it home, plugged it in, downloaded the app. Got it connected to my home wireless home internet. Loaded the app on my iphone and got to tweaking the settings. It works really well. Any movement that is picked up in my garage, I get a notice on my iphone. Instantly. It starts recording clips and saves them on it’s micro SD card. I can flip on the view and see live, whats going on in my garage. Middle of the night, someone decides to come in, ding ding. I’m on my way. Out for dinner? In Mexico? Yup. Call the neighbour. It can be triggered to record from movement or sound. 70% sensitivity yields me no false readings. It also records video and sound. I’m impressed by it. However I’m more impressed at how often my wife is in my tool box helping herself. And putting everything back! Never again will ai think twice about investing more money in tools. They seem to get 10X the use I thought I was giving them. For those savvy enough, I recommend this low priced security cam. The night vision is B&W and offers very good clear images and video in total darkness. 720 dpi camera. I figured likely this cam for the price, would be retuned after a week of false alarms and a glitchy app. Nope. It’s a keeper. My old Chrysler safely at home.

Knuckle, My reasoning for the swap: 1. Current engine looks like will need a full re-build, and from someone's thread on this forum a few days ago I'm looking at possibly $4000(?) or more plus at least 6-9 months time says my machine shop. 2. Donor engine is "ready to run" or so says this guy (I can't verify, but I will be doing a compression check and possibly try to bench run before I commit to it). Theoretically I could have it installed and running in as little as 2 months if everything goes smoothly. 3. Car is nice ...but FAR from show worthy. I'll just be happy to get it on the road again. Most floors rusted away and cobbled together with poorly done sheet steel riveted over top. I don't think numbers matching would add any value, but I would save the original in any case for future owner. JT

Adam says it all.

It will bolt in. If the 49 has stock running gear, it is a Fluid Drive. If someone changed it to a standard clutch (non FD) use your D24 trans and FD unit. Both crankshafts should be 8 bolt but if the engine not original to the 49, who knows.... If you wish to keep it numbers matching, rebuild or store the stocker while you enjoy the car with the 49 engine in it. Adam

Here's another. I will look for some with the radiator in place.

I found a couple of photos after the radiator was removed. I will have to load them separately. BTW, my hood had the same cracks everyone else is talking about, and the overflow line was somewhat flattened, but nothing that could not be lived with.

Thank you for putting time into this. I admire the fact that more people are getting into Flathead six performance enhancements. I will definitely follow you on your topic here.

This is a pretty good description for testing a generator.

sold them both did they......lol

Just a PSA... A few years ago I had a heckuva time finding these. Someone here at the forum confirmed they were in short supply and offered a few sets of older, dried up (and they cautioned likely shrunk) stock for templates to make my own. Well, last week I went searching again and lo and behold they popped up in stock at Autozone with free shipping over $25. Ordered three sets at $8.99/ea and they showed up today. New stock, nice looking Fel Pro cork side cover gaskets. Autozone order number is #072260 and the website said mail order only. Hopefully stock will remain for those of us that need them.

Sort of like buying extra strength ether.

relocated

thats what I've been using. Honestly had good service out of them. Will likely get another since I can't justify double the price for the optima

Well as we say in the software business, it's a feature not a bug. I feel its a little convoluted the way it works, but follow these steps: Create a new address for shipping. Then create a new address for billing. then select the appropriate choice at the bottom to assign them as your default billing and shipping address. If you still need help contact me at info@p15-d24.com.

and all complete...quick and dirty paint job....

I have 97s outside pair but the middle carb is the original B and B as I needed it to handle the fluid drive Anti stall feature,seems to work pretty well when warmed up after about 5 minute .Not sure if the gas consumption is much better or worse!

hi 55, not exactly ..have done preliminary research and just testing the waters in terms of what footprint to machine the castings ..so many options with 2 /3 and 4 bolt setups! We designed them around the mindset of 97s, but want to give rodders plenty of options. Have looked at the old designs and their limitations. We will be designing anything from mild(dual x 1bbl ) to wild ( triple x2bbl allowing for plenty of cfm on built performance engines) for both 23 and 25s. Hopefully the range will be dual 1bbl triple 1bbl dual 2bbl triple 2bbl Have you cast or designed and dual or tri carb intakes for single barrel carbs yet? yes Have you run any of your cast intakes, on an engine or any road testing to date? no not yet - going to run them on three of our cars Will follow along and see what develops.....thank you and any feedback positive or negative would be appreciated. As mentioned we love these ol girls and whether they are built for times on the salt flats or beach sands or just to look fast standing still we'll be happy.

Seat research is ongoing. This morning I attached the transmission to the engine and then set that combo into the frame. It's starting to get exciting.

I do have to say those manifolds look really cool and kudos to you for casting your own!!! Hotrodding at its finest! 1 question, will the rear carb clear the firewall or heater box (if there is one)? The Carter/Webers are so tune-able that someone probably could get 3 to work well. Keep us updated on how this works out. I for one will be following. My home-made intake but not as cool as yours...

Thanks for the photo. Really nice '38 for sure. I see that it is a later model '38 due to the headlight placement. The early '38's had the headlights mounted slightly higher and further forward. You can see the difference in the attached photo. John R

They would be easily identified as the parts you don't have when you are in the middle of a job and need them.

Got the motor, clutch and transmission installed. Took a bit of fidgeting to get the transmission to go in but with a final push on the clutch pedal and gentle shove in the rear it went in. I have to say reading about others experiences sure has helped me with this rebuild - thanks to the many who contribute!

I’ve just finished up the interior of my ‘54 Dodge Suburban and have kept it stock. I guess the style you go with depends on what you’re going to do with the rest of the car. If you’re going to target the surfers, go with the bench. Modern seats aren’t really their style. Your car, your rules though.

Ahhh, don't let the nay-sayers get you down. A little work now to upgrade to 12v and a lot less headache down the road, but your radio will not work when changing polarity unless it is reworked to operate on neg. ground. AMP gauge doesn't care how many volts go through it, a $15.00 RUNTZ resistor for the fuel gauge and you're good to go. If you have a trans with solenoids, I ran an R10 overdrive solenoids for years on 12v with no issue. If you drive it a lot and have to change a light bulb in the middle of a trip, 12v bulbs are everywhere! Adam

Some times you get lucky! Your old truck will live to run another day.

Last weekend and this weekend my time was spent painting the trans and installing the brake, and painting, repainting and RE-repainting the motor. First try was Duplicolor gloss black. It went on like oatmeal..... sanded it down the next day and tried a different batch of Duplicolor and got more oatmeal. Dammit. Sanded it again yesterday and used a different paint; the Seymour Hi Tech paint the shop uses for just about everything. What a difference! It actually shines, and went on wet and leveled fairly well for a rattle can. Could have been better with a proper spray gun and some good automotive paint, but I didn’t go that route. Maybe my next engine... This one is now waiting in the back row of the engine room to get back into its car. Also, still stripping and painting various small parts in preparation for reinstallation. Also got the original air cleaner stripped. It will be gloss black again.

I've used the POR15 chassis product and there are several other brand products on the market that are designed for similar use and their chemical composition is similar. Sometimes you're buying the name and sometimes the quality. POR15 has probably done the best job of marketing it's products so it's the name more people will be familiar with. Regardless, the prep work has to be done correctly before any application to best ensure product success.

I seem to spend only a small amount of my spare time on my old MOPAR trucks these days as my main hobby seems to keep me very busy. My hobby involves collecting and supplying medical and educational supplies to third world countries. We (Mom and I) have a few hospitals who are kind enough to supply us with large amounts of stock which we bundle up in shipping containers and send them around the world. Those stocks pretty much include anything which you would find at a hospital, and then school desks/chairs and school library books on the educational side. We have recently been working on countries like New Guinea, Fiji, Africa and Indonesia. This past week has been quite busy for me... I have been on vacation leave from work and frantically working on readying stock for a 40 foot shipping container which leaves for Cambodia on Monday. I have a full shed and 5 shipping containers in our yard at present! My fellow Officer's laugh when I tell them I only go in to work for a break as I seem to do far more work when I'm off duty... it's quite funny but so true!

I try to spend a little time at the drawing board most days. Especially in winter. Also started building cigar box guitars. I'll include a picture. Wife and I hike, kayak and try to stay active.

Most likely the last post in this thread. Went for my first drive in the coupe today. A few bugs to work out yet. Clutch pedal doesn't come all the way up so the clutch isn't engaged fully until I pull it up with my foot. Temp went to 185. I'll have to watch it to make sure it's good there.