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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/13/2018 in all areas

  1. Stock radiator cap is a non-pressure cap so the cooling system is not under pressure.
    2 points
  2. My 24 Dodge Brothers 100% stock.
    2 points
  3. It takes over an hour of running to burn the oil out of a muffler and it runs clean for about 10 minutes until the muffler gets hot.
    2 points
  4. Last weekend and this weekend my time was spent painting the trans and installing the brake, and painting, repainting and RE-repainting the motor. First try was Duplicolor gloss black. It went on like oatmeal..... sanded it down the next day and tried a different batch of Duplicolor and got more oatmeal. Dammit. Sanded it again yesterday and used a different paint; the Seymour Hi Tech paint the shop uses for just about everything. What a difference! It actually shines, and went on wet and leveled fairly well for a rattle can. Could have been better with a proper spray gun and some good automotive paint, but I didn’t go that route. Maybe my next engine... This one is now waiting in the back row of the engine room to get back into its car. Also, still stripping and painting various small parts in preparation for reinstallation. Also got the original air cleaner stripped. It will be gloss black again.
    1 point
  5. Barney Rubble would have found a stone, chisel and etched a flat rock...I have a camera on my phone, have not taken the first picture with it.....I do live in the stone age..
    1 point
  6. I add Marvel Mystery Oil to my 87 octane unleaded with the ethanol to stabilize the fuel, keeping it from going stale and gumming up carburetors as well as reducing starter cranking times...recently, I revived my JD 425 from storage after not touching it for 4 months, had parked it in the barn with a season's dirt in the air filter and less than 1 gallon of treated gas in the tank...just like in years past, this year's first start took less than 5 seconds of cranking with full throttle and choke to awaken this li'l workhorse, and the engine ran very smooth after 3 seconds...in years before I switched to treated gas, first start was a curse-laden chore that involved removing the air filter and hitting the carb with starting fluid, resulting in the inevitable ear-ringing expletive-inducing backfire, and on one occasion, replacing the subsequent destroyed spark plugs...several neighbors have reported similar results since switching to treated gas, saying they don't have to work so hard since putting the red stuff in the tank...the last time I tore down a B&B carb, it was striking how clean the reservoir was and how little varnish had formed in the usual places after switching to treated gas...it seems like such a simple thing to do, but it does solve several problems, as advertised on the bottle
    1 point
  7. Hello, Thanks! It has a radio, but tubes are blown and I've not got around to fixing. It also has 2 visors.
    1 point
  8. I had a similar problem on a 1938 Buick. It turned out to be a bad intake manifold gasket. It was pulling plain air in rather than the fuel air mixture. When I would spray starter fluid near the leaking gasket it would pick those cylinders up. Just watch out for the fan and for safety’s sake, I did it when I first started the engine before the exhaust manifold got hot. Good luck! Some problems can be a real bear to figure out.
    1 point
  9. The shop manual lists the radiator cap as non-pressurized until you get into the really large trucks. In actuality the original cap is set up to handle 4 1/2 lbs. I'm running a Stant 4 lb. cap with an aluminum radiator.
    1 point
  10. Relays are used for things that draw a lot of amps like headlights or dual horns . You won't need a relay for the electric fuel pump .
    1 point
  11. I am a bit confused. In your first posting you said the compression was 110. If you have a valve sticking you would have zero compression in that cylinder.
    1 point
  12. No big updates.. Here is a photo of the front drum after the rust reformer on it. I did not use electrolysis on these as there were bearings.. instead just lots of elbow grease to remove the majority of the surface rust, degreased the outside then I put on 2 coats of Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer (great stuff btw). This is before adding black spray paint. Got the wheels/tires on (well 3, misplaced the rear axle nut... it's around the garage somewhere) Helped clean up and sell my step-fathers 87 Silverado, had it out a day and was sold quick! Also been working on rebuilding an engine for a '01 Mustang that is being turbocharged. Picked up a 25' roll of 3/16" NiCu brakeline, fittings, cutting tool, flaring tool, etc and possibly tomorrow going to put on new brake lines.
    1 point
  13. Something to think about is that they are hard to see on the engine unless you are specifically looking for them because the intake and exhaust is in the way. I had them on my 230 and with the fenders and aforementioned manifolds in place you barely saw them.
    1 point
  14. Not sure what is more impressive, a 29 Fargo or the fact they don't use the internet ? is the MC missing or can it be rebuilt? I know Hagens in WA can do some re-sleaving ....... https://hagensautoparts.com/ might be worth an inquiry if you can and you haven't already.
    1 point
  15. Back in the pre-Internet 1980s, I relied heavily on Hemmings Motor News.
    1 point
  16. I took this old buggy "Gussie" out for a ride over to my brothers house the other day. 12 hilly miles each way.
    1 point
  17. Just bought this 39 DeSoto a few weeks ago from Washington state. Had it delivered to San Francisco. Drive it almost every day. Need to adjust the emergency brake a bit but other than that, it’s a great driver. Nick
    1 point
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