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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/02/2018 in all areas

  1. One of the establishments I visit on occasion for a beverage with some live country and western music has a problem with the back walls wanting to collapse, and it's my job to hold them up and lean on them for the evening...at least that's what I tell the bartenders who kinda point out my lack of mingling, to humorous effect... so maybe I was there briefly, but so far in the back that folks didn't see me...keeping away the mountain lions and unicorns
    4 points
  2. Nothing to panic about. Hammer it out and weld it up,or cut a piece to fit and weld it in place.
    3 points
  3. Steam cleaned with pressure. Quite pleased.
    2 points
  4. How is your vacuum gauge connected? Sounds as if it is connected to the vacuum advance port at the base of the carburetor. Should be connected to the intake manifold.
    2 points
  5. Interesting , looks like clip and all from the 74. No heat, don't like the long heater hose by pass. And don't like the front wheel looks. When the slant was put in mine , used a diplomat Doner car. Used whole drive train , no sub frame. Think there's pics in my signature. I think I get more compliments than if it had a v 8.
    1 point
  6. I once got a rubber floor mat from a van conversion place that they removed when upgrading to carpet. Easy to cut down to fit a car.
    1 point
  7. well Would you look at that. It does twist apart right there lol thank you
    1 point
  8. Yes that plug is a manifold vacuum port. Unscrejw the plug,take it and the vacuum gauge to the hardware and have one of the helpful hardware guys hook you up with some brass fittings to make the connection. When done, reinsert!t the plug and keep the fittings with the gauge. If I remember there was a small yes right here dummy sticker on my stock intake....
    1 point
  9. Ok,you have me confused there. The timing mark and distributor are connected at the hip. If you are timing the engine and ignoring the timing mark,the distributor has been installed without it pointing at number 1 cylinder. I have an engine that was timed 180 degrees off when I got it,but the plug wires were installed 180 degrees off in the distributor cap to compensate. I know it is off 180 degrees,so no big deal. Given the problems you are having with this while trying to learn about how your car operates,you really need to get your firing order set on the number 1 cylinder and then install your distributor so the rotor cap points at the number one plug wire position. That will make any further research or work you do on this a LOT less confusing to you. Buy a motors manual from ebay,Abes Books,etc,etc,etc,that covers the year 1948,and go to the tune up and ignition sections and read them VERY carefully. In fact,read them while looking at your engine and ignition system,and reread them until it all makes sense to you. The basics are the basics for good reasons. Everything begins there. The tune up section will even tell you how to use your vacuum gauges and what the different readings indicate. Buying a Motors Repair Manual that covers 1948 will be the best money you will ever spend on your car.
    1 point
  10. Merle, I knew that just didn't write it right or correctly. Now I have to find or make a vacuum port on my intake manifold???????? This my sound crazy, but I never used a vacuum gauge on my car before and not aware of what, where, or how to attach a vacuum gauge to the manifold. I check my engine pictures and found a plug on top of the manifold. Should there there be a big sign that says start here dummy?
    1 point
  11. Guess my reputation is intact - stuck clutch.
    1 point
  12. I was going to suggest the same question as Don stated above. It sounds like you are on ported vacuum, not manifold vacuum. Also, for future reference, vacuum is measured in Inches of Mercury, or inHg, not PSI. It would actually be a negative number if reading PSI.
    1 point
  13. I reckon the retaining sleeve unscrews from the element holder so that the holder can go thru the dash mounting hole from the passenger side, and then the sleeve screws on from behind the dash
    1 point
  14. Yeah I missed the part about T5... 383 and a T5, won't end well unless you have 4 of 8 cylinders disabled or drive it in the slowest, slow shifting you can possibly do. An 8.8" will probably work. '95-'01 Explorer 8.8" does gain disc brakes and they are at 59-60" wide. I would have to take a tape measure to the one I have to know exactly.. Look for the ratio tag and look for an "L" code so you get traction lock
    1 point
  15. Seats are correct for a 67 so probably original. The seat medallions are one year only. They changed them for the 68/69 model years. I've got a 67 Dart GT convertible with the slant 6.
    1 point
  16. My 65 Dart GT from a few decades ago. I paid $145 bucks for it and took 'liberties' with it. It became 'home base' on the beach at many Daytona Bikeweeks. My freinds and I would ride stripped custom bikes around Daytona and store coats, helmets, booze and camping gear in the trunk. I would buy that in a minute!
    1 point
  17. The good news is that none of these old flatheads are delicate engines,and they are not highly stressed. They will continue to start and run pretty well for thousands of miles after you would have to give up on modern engines at the same stage. I once drove a flathead V-8 pu to work for about 2 months that was so low on compression I had to park it on a hill at home and let it roll down to start,and had to get one of my co-workers to pull me to get it running so I could get back home. The starter just wouldn't spin it over fast enough to get it started. Once started,it didn't knock or even smoke all that badly,and held right at zero oil pressure at idle. The oil pressure would build up to 20+ at driving speed,so that was no problem. I bought the truck out of a junkyard for 50 bucks to get the transmission out of it to put in the panel truck I normally drove,but was staying too busy doing construction work to swap the transmissions until the summer ended,so I just waited until work slowed down and I had the time.
    1 point
  18. I don't know the GE cross but, I used "Wagner 55" I bought from Napa for the cluster bulbs and "Wagner 51" for my Signal Stat 800 on our B4D
    1 point
  19. Sorry - meant to post the link to all the pictures. Awards are in there somewhere ... https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1DPhSRnQl7RfYJsFUtgq8L9v_S0zIXywo?usp=sharing
    1 point
  20. The Brick (B2B) and Jim Shepard's truck (B2B).....in the background, Gary Martin's panel truck (B1B) June 11, 2016
    1 point
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