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An Explorer 8.8 will plenty strong. You will shell that T5 long before the 8.8. I’d look at a T56 instead of the T5. An 8” wheel might be a little too wide without frame narrowing. I have whipped the snot out of 8.8’s and it’s impressive how strong they are. Weld the axle tubes to the center section. Adam

So talking to different folks, engine builders and the HAMB as well as you guys, I have decided that it will come back out and be gone thru. I have a handful of things I am looking for and I need it right after all the time and money. I will keep you posted on what I find.

Hey all, Starting this thread for discussion and debate on carbs and induction. So let's hear it, all the opinions, experiences likes and dislikes. In running Asche built Carter BB carbs and have also ran these in the past. Stromberg, modern type Carter Webbers, Holleys lets hear your story. Now lets keep it all civil Boys and Girls, no hitting below the belt.

My wife found this for me! I love old ads!! Hanging it the garage by my 48'

well, say what you want but, never trusted the guy, after all those years on TV all Matt ask of Kitty was a beer.....

Ford did the same on some Paxton supercharged cars from the 60s.

I will make a full report once I install my log manifold.

Studebaker had a really good looking solution to that with their '57 Golden Hawk w/blower. Neat lookin' box over the carb. Polished stainless or aluminum would make underhood look great.

Is there a reason you don’t want a draw through? A lot easier and the fuel cools the charge air. Adam

Already o-ringed the theottle shaft. Don't want aerosolized fuel sneaking out there. Not too worried about a little leak around the choke shaft. It's pretty tight, but a little loss there won't be a major concern.

Nope. Blow through. Not a fan of draw. Working out a plan now.... there are ways.... there have to be ways....

I believe the radio is correct but those tires have some cracks in them. I think you should just let me know where it's at and I'll go pick it up and let it sit in my yard for a while. Heck I'll even take the junk that's inside. But seriously, take the car and at the very least sale it to someone who appreciates it and even give the lady some of the money from the sale. You will still come out ahead on it.

I did have a picture in a thread many years ago. I can't post from Photobucket and I am not sure where else I have a picture. It looked just like the one in the picture posted by T120 above.

Hello 55, Hope this topic is as successful as your driver topic. Here's mine but I think most people have read it by now... My final post was an evaluation of the finished product. And a picture of the finished product.

I used a 2001 Explorer 8.8 in my current build (the 47). 4.1 Trac Lock Sorry, don't have the measurements handy. I also used the factory Explorer sway bar, mounts and end links. Made for a clean install

The red is a real no-no in my understanding. The axle taper gripping the drums internal bore is what transmits most of the torque. Adding any sort of lube now requires the key to absorb the load. If it starts to rotate on the shaft even a little, the movement will eventually damage the key, drum and/or the axle.

The '93-09 Ranger 8.8 is 58½ wms to wms.

No shoes allowed.

Well the 'go-to' rear end is out of a Cherokee and that won't quite be strong enough. The other go to is an Explorer rear and that's still not enough.. Your best bet is a narrowed 9" Ford

I bought these parts from Egge but if I was to do it again, I would use Terrill Machine. He’s the cheapest and mails it the next day and I believe that much of what he sells is NOS. VPW is overpriced.

April 30, 2018: Got the correct rear shoes in the mail today from Bernbaum. I have a vintage spring removal/installation tool that I like to use, but I don't like to put an ugly dent in the new shoes with the point when stretching the spring across to both shoes. So I used this little aluminum block that has a couple of holes in it. The hole is big enough for the tip of the tool to get in there, but small enough to where it doesn't touch the shoe when squeezing the tool and putting pressure on it to stretch the spring. Worked pretty slick. Rant: Since I made the mistake of updating my Iphone to the latest version, I can no longer download pics from my phone to my computer....stupid Apple! I'm gonna dump Apple and buy an Android or something else soon. So I have to download the pics directly from my phone to this site, then go onto my computer and type everything related to the post. Its too hard to type it in using my phone. I can't use both thumbs on the thing like today's kids can. Ah...technology. Can't wait to get the Meadowbrook back on the road again. No computers in my baby!

68 340 4 speed gts I helped my buddy do a few years ago for some motivation!

Sharps40, Ditto. Check Points, Condenser, Cap, and Rotor. Set Timing with a Vacumn Gauge. Look for 20 inches steady hand. Get RPM's to just click at Upshifts - say at 550 RPM. Drive it every day until it runs smooth. A Car that sits - especially a Chrysler Product must be run. Do not let it sit for long periods. Put non-ethanol gas in it. Use QT Gas if possible. Crap Gas will always screw things up (ethanol gas) Drive it. Tom

Why are you even asking? It's FREE! You don't have to restore it. Just drag it home and get it running,made sure it goes into first and reverse so you can tell potential buyers,and put it up for sale. If you don't go nuts with the asking price it will be gone in a few days and you will have some cash in your pocket. Yes,Dart GTS were popular,and are still popular, I can only guess that someone changed the steering column for some reason because AFAIK,GTS Darts came with a console and floor shift. There is just no way you can lose if you just take it home and put it up for sale.

It was a long, tedious day. I could remove the frame now, but need to stop, rest, and reset. One can easily male a critical mistake by pushing too hard.

I just start as if I put it away yesterday. As Dan said it never fires before it cranks up pressure anyways

You like those tailgates with the chute in them, don't you? Nice haul, any choke knobs? And on that yellow PW, you know when they put the "M" upside down, it's disrespect!

A pretty sure way to determine if you are sucking oil past the valve guides is to check the oil (blue smoke) coming out of the exhaust: - If you get lots of smoke on acceleration, it is likely your rings are not seated correctly. - If you get lots of smoke on deceleration (more than on acceleration), you are pulling oil past the valve guides. It's sort of a mystery why the lifters might not pump up if you've got good oil pressure.

two slams too many......

so took a trip to Windy Hil yesterday. They put up a pic of a 1.5 ton on fb they just got. I had planned ongoing anyway, but it was icing on the cake. When we got there I found actually they had gotten several more trucks since my last visit 3 years ago. Oddly, many had lots of swag left: knobs, engine parts and the like. SADLY badging had been taken alread. I did grab some of the stuff but left some for others. the haul: Front fenders for TODD a reall rotten out tailgate to hang on the shop 2 matched sets of door locks/ignition (one with key) door lock headlight ring B1/2 parking bucket set B1/2 parking bucker doors a pile of the ACME style threaded fastners couple of center divider bars trucks tags full fresh air package pile of B1/2 door handles knobs accessory pod with knobs several other items as well as my 39 grill from the BBQ some eye candy

Check the centrifugal advance on the distributor?

I too had a 24/7 headache years ago. It quickly subsided when I retired. Welcome back,