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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/18/2018 in all areas

  1. Been awhile since I have been here ( life is just too busy) so thought I would show you what I have been up to. I know it is not everyones "cup of tea" but I built it my way. In the style of a 60's mild traditional custom. The only drivetrain mod has been the addition of a t5 5 speed. Here are some pics. Currently building a 1954 Plymouth Plaza Wagon too.
    3 points
  2. Maybe ( in a perfect world ) there are a dozen New Yorkers in the parking garage and you just got into the wrong one !
    2 points
  3. Page 72 of my shop manual says " Care must be exercised when installing a new distributor tube to see that the front end of the tube is flared in a manner similar to the original installation. "
    2 points
  4. I only got to talk to him a short while, but he's got stories. One of those guys that knows a lot but says so little. Respect.
    2 points
  5. You have to respect a man who rolls in wearing his cover-alls and drinks the champagne of beers (old school long neck) . Mr. Bosker is a scholar and a gentleman.... and the owner of a beautiful truck
    2 points
  6. Everyone's seen one of these, or something like it, right? NOS ones are silly money: I know they can be repaired, but it's messy and it still might not work. This is the internals of a $15 Smiths electrical temperature gauge: Now this looks like it might just work... First, we need some 3D printed parts, so so here we go with Autodesk Fusion 360. 45 minutes later: A couple of 8mm holes for the terminal posts... Now we can start to assemble the meter: The dial is assembled to the support bracket: And there you have a 12V electrical temperature gauge for the Dodge...
    2 points
  7. I found these a few years ago in a closed tire shop. Dynatrue tire truer and Atlas "Tune In" on car balancer. They were going to be sold for scrap. Of course I had to save them.
    2 points
  8. This morning I drove my wife to the city. She wanted to shop. As we seldom shop together, I headed off to find something of interest to me and remembered reading in yesterday's paper of a sale,(someone selling assorted tools out of a garage in the industrial area). The sale had been on for a couple hours when I arrived. Speaking with the fellow having the sale, I was a bit late arriving and there wasn't much left. Apparently he bought the contents of a garage belonging to an elderly gent who was entering an assisted living facility. I was sorry I hadn't arrived earlier , but I did buy this tripod bumper jack . He was asking $10.00 for it. It is a MoPar jack, still had the tag on it. In marker pencil on the jack, the number 1710284 with price $9.95.- I'm thinking maybe early 1950's? I like this type of jack and have used them often.
    2 points
  9. 1 point
  10. bought the kit. Parking brake? lol not yet anyway. Shaft I had, was in the trunk of a car I bought. Was GM so the splines were perfect as was the length.(lucky). Just used the conversion u-joint.
    1 point
  11. This is a repost of years ago to answer a question about his phone number...
    1 point
  12. Best change yet, was not a straight conversion as I had the fluid drive. (bellhousing etc had to also be changed). but here in Socal on the fwys...65-70 all day long. Factory rear end still too.
    1 point
  13. Nice car man, I like it. I am more of a custom/hotrod guy myself and your car is a nice custom. Restoring is boring I like to say. Nice to add your own style. My 49 Plymouth is similar to yours, slightly custom and a nice driver. Good job.
    1 point
  14. Think even a 225 slant 6 would be a bit quicker than most flatties.
    1 point
  15. Awesome. Dont think even a souped up 265 would be as strong as a mild LA 318. Hmmm got me thinkin.....
    1 point
  16. That would be me and if I was short, my apologies. I had written that I was completing the woodwork but didn't realize that other steel bodied cars may also have woodwork (so I mistakenly thought it was obvious) ... In any case, It was not at the bottom of the door and I'm still looking for the correct rear door check strap for my 1949 Plymouth Woodie ... any help would be appreciated. Josh
    1 point
  17. I am sure there is a larger plate available. There is a lot of room left on the flywheel and another bolt pattern. If not, I can take it to a clutch shop and they will beef it up. As for the V8, there is no comparison! The flatty is nostalgia cool and gets lots of looks at the shows with its acorn nut caps, dual exhaust and carbs etc. Not to mention the flatty sounds great and turns heads with twice pipes and short glass packs. However, the V8 has triple the HP with a great sound. The vintage Hemi is one of the coolest old engines out there and looks so tidy with the hidden spark plug wires and such. I am having a few oil pressure issues which I need to sort out. Even with the issues I am having, I would never go back the flatty. The V8 is just awesome and makes this thing an awesome cruiser! Once I get the OD squared away I’m sure it will even be more enjoyable.
    1 point
  18. I love Tim and Steph's PUG....I mean COE. AND...glad to see last year's evidence made the journey with "Brendt" and Julie. Ooops, I mean Brent.
    1 point
  19. I guess that I finally reached breaking point as I had the (unfinished) 'Pop' coupe truck brought home today. I’ve had constant ‘chats’ with the Panel Beater over the past year of how I seemed to be receiving ridiculously high bills from them yet very little work seemed to be getting done. It is really sad when you trust someone, who you think has the knowledge and skills to attend to a high quality rebuild in a timely manner, and then you find that they have just been doing what little they need to do in order to drag out time to get as much money from you as possible from their hourly rate. I have already established who will be finishing the project off for me, but the Pop truck can rest in my shed with some of his friends for now.…
    1 point
  20. I just punched a hole through it and pried it out. I got another off a friends parts truck.
    1 point
  21. I've only seen three choices for kits; DCM Classics, Quiet Ride Solutions and Pilothouse Interiors. Since interiors are pretty simple, I would venture a handy person could make their own. I've given this some thought. Richer materials and a look that is je ne sais quoi. Will you be sticking with authentic or are you willing to go custom? Visiting an upholsterer or two might give you some ideas, or head out to Clements and get some ideas from those BBQ attending trucksters. I'll be taking in a couple car shows this summer and hope to find a path to go down. If not this year, then the next, or the next...
    1 point
  22. 1 point
  23. Stay on top of Wheeksmith. They're real good,....on the phone. I went to Rally America as mentioned above after the other guys dropped the ball. Stock Mopar Cop Car rims bolt right up, 'Tho they're 15" x 7".
    1 point
  24. My new used Massey Harris Sparkplug wrench for Chyrsler flathead engines. Paid .80 for it today.
    1 point
  25. My score of the day 8 bucks
    1 point
  26. I recently went to the "university of you tube" and made a homemade bead breaker ($5. for scrap metal) it worked "OK" on the back side of the rim, but not so much on the split ring side. (it was more of an excuse to practice welding...... )
    1 point
  27. While not as finely made (and illustrated!) as PT81Jan's bearing tool, this is my 10 minute MoPar bolt circle gauge / locating pin template. (let's call it a "proof of concept" model). It's a (very) quickly (crudely?) cut disk of artist's "foam core" board sized to fit flat against the bold circle of a typical wheel. Using a 14 inch steel wheel from a '67 Coronet as a template, I glued short pieces of wood dowel to the disk, and gave them a couple turns of duct tape to snug them up into the wheel's bolt holes. I then traced the locator pin holes from the Dodge wheel and carefully marked the centers with a 1/16" pilot hole. I use this this to quickly verify the bolt circle of wheels of unknown lineage, and in the case of the Ford 15" steelies I put on the rear of my P12, it was used to drill pilot holes for the locator pins, nicely matching the 14" Coronet wheels on the front. Eventually I may duplicate this using more robust materials (1/4 inch Masonite, maybe) but for now it's fitting the bill.
    1 point
  28. Ok, but this feels kinda like showing off my Boy Scout badges. I can't get it all in one pic. But here's the smaller hand tools in the chest. Recent MOPAR required tools are on the floor. I pulled them out to show them off. Rear hub puller, vintage L-head valve spring tool, vintage valve seat cutter tool. All worked very well, I must say. I have click-y torque wrenches, tap and die sets, endless sockets up to 1/2", tone of pliers including Oetker pliers. Mity-Vac, heat guns, soldering gear, to call out a few things. I have been collecting tools for about 30 years now. I figure if I am doing a job myself, it only takes one time to pay for the tool. Quite often, the more expensive the tool, the more expensive it would be to pay someone else to do the job. So I buy whatever I need. After 20 years of putting up with a crappy floor jack, I finally went out and bought a 2T decent floor jack on wheels. Why I put up with a crappy one for 20 years, I have no idea. Tons more bigger stuff like compressor, chain hoist, jack stands...You know the usual stuff. I have my eye on a 120V AC 70A MIG Welder. I never learned to weld. Its about time I tried. Coming soon I'd say.
    1 point
  29. Peter, as Don & Greg have mentioned, measure the head length to check whether you have a short or long engine...23" or 25'..........the 25" engine is known here in Oz as a "Kew" engine and used either a 3&3/8th or 3&7/16th bore with 218/228 or 250 capacity. The 265 engine I have never heard of being used in Oz but its possible I suppose, maybe in some mid 50's Oz trucks?........as far as hipo goes, as mentioned mill the head, multple carbies...usually Holden Stromberg or the stock style Carters carbies work best here in Oz, years ago I saw a set of TRIPLE WEBERS(!!!!) hanging off the side of a Kew 6 in a speedboat, dunno how it went but looked the bees knees......lol.........extractors or headers, update the dissy...I have a Stovebolt Engineering HEI on the still stock 201 as pictured, also get a good balance job,lighten the flywheel, I have had the cam for my 230 reground by Waggott Engineering in Alstonville near Lismore NSW 02 6628 3795. Also have you heard of Stewart Campbell from Maitland NSW.he is a hotrodder who has a 29 Dodge Roadster running a very hot 250, triple carbs etc......I can get his phone number if need be.......if allowed in your class a finned head from Earl Edgerton in California is expensive but a nice way to up the ante..........anyway if you want I can be contacted via phone on 02 6642 5963 a/hrs or at my shop 02 6643 5260 m-friday & sat morning......regards, andyd
    1 point
  30. 1 point
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