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Hello everyone. My newest projects came to me from my father that passed away in December of 2017. He kept these trucks for over 40 years, in a garage and I drooled over them since I knew how to walk. I will do them justice and honor my dad by putting them back into service, just the way he had them, years ago. I just wanted to share these with everybody. Wish me luck!

Some of the crew are flying in TOMORROW NIGHT....this Q just got REAL!!! Been fighting through this rain, cool weather, wind without help of extra hands! My kids grew up and are living their own lives... My Bay Area son, Zac will be manning the burger truck again this year with his long time buddies Frankie and Justin. But my youngest daughter moved to Arizona, following her College Graduation.....she found a great job and plans to come home for visit, AFTER the BBQ.....sigh. My oldest lives 4 miles away (has the grand kids) but is so busy with her own family life, I can only sneak my butt in there as a babysitter once in a while...lol. Me and Steph do a pretty darn good job. The weather: It's a gonna be 75 degrees, a few clouds and a bunch of old trucks......its a gonna be a nice! So I'm getting old and tired I guess, so trust me......I can't wait to see y' all and get this party STARTED! Tim aka 48Dodger

Just leaving Brimson, Mn with my"new" 49.

You need intake vacuum for timing. Carb is ported vacuum for advance. They are opposite signals. When manifold vacuum is high, idfle, cruise, carb vacuum ports are low.

Wondered that too, when I got my new nuts and washer sometime ago. Here my thoughts: Requirement is, that the bolting doesn`t lose its preload to ensure the manifolds doesn`t leak. Parts do expand when getting hot and contract, when getting cold. So the bolting has to compensate that movement. Bolts / studs are working like a spring when properly tightened. Longer ones do have a better preload=self-lock than short ones. Assumption: no additional locking precausion needed on the long bolts, so standard washers and nuts are used (red circles). On the other hand a reason to use conical nuts on short bolts (green circle) might be, that not enough self-lock is guaranteed. The slots on those nuts are working like a locking device. The conical washer are needed as a counter part of course. Remains the question why there are short bolts without conical (lock) nuts: Those with the yellow circle have to hold two manifold flanges. Therefor a washer with a larger diameter is needed. Assuming these are no special made items but standard parts, there doesn`t exist conical washers with a larger diameter. So regular washers and nuts are used. On that with the blue circle there is just not enough space in height to put the conical nut and washer between the manifold flange and wall. Regarding the different material. Brass parts doesn`t seizure like steel. The conical nuts need to be of steel due to their job working as a spring, too. Just my assumptions ...

Merle, the frame is 4'8" wide and 8' 6" long. The seller estimates it to weigh around 500#'s. Me bed with the tailgate down is 8'6" long and the bed max with is about 54". So today I will build a rack to carry that frame, set it in there, and strap it all down. I've hauled 218 engines with no issues so I'm not concerned, should work out fine.

WOW! I am in awe of the stock factory chrome and trim still being shiny on that red truck. From an appearance POV,in MY opinion that thing is perfect just as it sits. If it were mine,I would do what I needed to do to make it safe and reliable,and then drive it the way it is.

If you have vacuum windshield wipers, you can connect there or on the carb at the distributor advance connection. Also on most carter carbs there is a screw you can remove and tap in there, usually between the air screw and the idle screw. Joe Lee

That looks like the housing my motor has. I will make a point to look tomorrow afternoon and see.

cool and I take it, the top one is inlet, bottom is return?

this might also be it, car (52 suburban) has been sitting since 1965, be surprised if the motor was good but maybe. Problem is, need someone to just come drag the car away. I am heading back to Texas in 3 days and no time to do what I need to get done. Will have to come back in a couple months just to get my truck.

Brent: is it possible she is coming by herself? She can be a bit independent! LOL

we might be back on track!...... the new trailer is supposed to be finished tomorrow night and we leave Thursday..... (nothing like cutting it close.... hope the welds are cool by then) side note= I caught Julie packing this weekend...... sure hope she can wait and ride down there with me

Based on what you have found so far I think it is a good idea to drop the pan. Be prepared for a gooey mess and perhaps some tougher deposits. While you have the pan off you ought to clean the valve galleries as best you can. Anything there would just wind up in the oil pan. Jeff

You can run the engine with the valve covers off and you won't loose much oil, if any. I wouldn't advise doing the compression test without oil. Theoretically there's still oil in the bearings for lubrication, but I'd want some being pumped through under cranking just to be safe.

Not a fan of the Buck Rogers stuff. Reminds me of an old Marx tin toy that shoots sparks.Each to his own. Points for creativity though.

I had checked the valve guide dimensions before taking it in and they measured OK so I didn't have the shop replace them. I think the previous owner replaced them sometime before I bought the truck. The shop I dealt with took quite a while to do the work. The main problem according to them is that the spray welding process is time consuming. The block had to be heated to something like 450 degrees F before the pitted areas could begin to be spray welded. That only gave the welder about three minutes of welding time before the block had to be re-heated. Actually, the cost of the welding, sleeving, valve seat replacement and seat cutting wasn't all that bad - a little over a thou. They also spray welded the corroded water jacket holes on the bottom of the head and then milled a few thousandths off the head as well. Do I like spending money like this, well no, but for it's all about saving a nice piece of automotive history, keeping the original engine, learning some new skills, making friends, learning patience, and hopefully ending up with a cool little truck.

The rain (believe it or not!) has made the clean up process difficult...so I hope y'all love (lawn) grass...lol. The BBQ is almost here.... as it always happens, a few forum names will come up....some asking questions like "wonder what he's like?" "wonder if he'll come out next year?" or "wouldn't it be great if that guy was here, I'd like to talk with him". It's what created the "Wish You Were Here Award". An award that reminds everyone on the forum, no matter where you're at, you're invited!! Past winners: 2008 Don Coatney 2009 Merle Coggins 2010 Hank aka HanksB3B 2011 Ed aka Young ED 2012 Bud aka Budstruck 2013 Tim Adams aka Plymouthy Adams 2014 Mark aka ggdad1951 and Davin aka Desotodav 2015 Joe Hanely aka 52b3 Joe 2016 Dave aka Dave72dt 2017 Rob aka Dodge4ya This year, its a guy who has every post logged, filed, tagged, or I'm sure, memorized! You can never be sure how many trucks he actually has, because I believe he's like the rest of us and has enough pieces stashed away to actually build another truck. He's always willing to offer a link to a well thought out post he made/read, or share new insight on a recent experience. Its always been the best part about the trucksite, I think, people's abilities to share ideas, and he has been great about it! You can't help but notice when someone puts in an effort like that and I hope he has many more posts to share in the long haul. So here's to you! • 2018 JBNeal • Congratulations Sir!!! Look for your trophy in the mail my friend. 48D