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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/06/2018 in all areas

  1. I pulled up at Napa today to get my swill and bs with the other car guys, and met my new hero purely by accident. He was sitting in the corner looking over some publications while waiting his turn at the counter. A bright eyed and sharp specimen of 90 plus.....when he saw my Navy cover he piped up and said Are you a F@#$%^g Squid or did you steal that F!@#$%g hat ? I said I am a F!@#$%^g Squid whats it to you you miserable puke........he laughed and introduced himself. He said his name was Eddie but his friends call him Steady Eddie or just Steady. He talked about his days in Uncle Sam's Misguided Children and how much civilians suck....I agreed and told him about my Navy days....it was a good time. I could see his ball cap was red and gold but it was a plain hat and had nothing special written on it other than USMC. Eddie turned 16 the month after he landed on Iwo Jima and was 40 when he left Viet Nam........ This should have been what he should have been wearing. He was only in Omaha for several days and I got to met a real Hero....I feel so blessed.
    4 points
  2. With my lift safety check, and my successful mountain road test behind me, today I felt worthy to attach the forum indents. I put one in the window to remind me of the membership privilege and the one on the tailgate a bit askew beside the recycle icon to remind those who follow that I recycle and that perfection is not a prerequisite to this hobby, but active participation is!
    2 points
  3. I really don't pay any attention to the indicated advance. If you set it with a vacuum gauge, it performs well, doesn't ping, overheat or kick back when starting, who cares what the mark is? timing marks can be wrong, for any number of reasons.
    2 points
  4. Dolly Dodge has plans to attend. Still working on getting a trailer for her. UHaul won't rent one to me for her. I have one lined out that friend said I can use. I will have to go over and back in a day, but at least she will make one of the BBQs.
    2 points
  5. The rain (believe it or not!) has made the clean up process difficult...so I hope y'all love (lawn) grass...lol. The BBQ is almost here.... as it always happens, a few forum names will come up....some asking questions like "wonder what he's like?" "wonder if he'll come out next year?" or "wouldn't it be great if that guy was here, I'd like to talk with him". It's what created the "Wish You Were Here Award". An award that reminds everyone on the forum, no matter where you're at, you're invited!! Past winners: 2008 Don Coatney 2009 Merle Coggins 2010 Hank aka HanksB3B 2011 Ed aka Young ED 2012 Bud aka Budstruck 2013 Tim Adams aka Plymouthy Adams 2014 Mark aka ggdad1951 and Davin aka Desotodav 2015 Joe Hanely aka 52b3 Joe 2016 Dave aka Dave72dt 2017 Rob aka Dodge4ya This year, its a guy who has every post logged, filed, tagged, or I'm sure, memorized! You can never be sure how many trucks he actually has, because I believe he's like the rest of us and has enough pieces stashed away to actually build another truck. He's always willing to offer a link to a well thought out post he made/read, or share new insight on a recent experience. Its always been the best part about the trucksite, I think, people's abilities to share ideas, and he has been great about it! You can't help but notice when someone puts in an effort like that and I hope he has many more posts to share in the long haul. So here's to you! • 2018 JBNeal • Congratulations Sir!!! Look for your trophy in the mail my friend. 48D
    2 points
  6. 1 point
  7. There is a ceramic header coating available that is baked on (my memory says it was 500-700 degrees) and then the part is placed in a tumbler to polish the part. It looks very close to chrome or even polished aluminum. Jet Hot does this as well as other powder coat shops. It's not a powder coat though, it's a bit different. It can be applied to most metals but I was told that older cast aluminum or pot metals may warp in the over from contaminants within the casting. Anything else is good to go! Greg
    1 point
  8. Seems the 'blessed lady' is testing you! LOL
    1 point
  9. Yes. I took my '51 Imperial out this morning to run errands, and that sweet old Hemi runs like new. She has about 60K on the odometer--probably accurate. Love the old Mopars; love the old Hemis. Jon
    1 point
  10. Could I ask what kind of clear you used? and brand also. Just trying to determine if there may be another that might keep more of the shine. I'd really like to do my grille and surround with chrome paint. But as shiny as possible of course.
    1 point
  11. I actually like the look of brass. My gauge bezels are made from brass and I removed the chrome. I think black dash and brass gauges will be sweet. Although it is still a project and not on the road yet, I think maintaining the brass may be a ongoing chore. Already they have become quite dull. Now polishing brass bezels may take a few extra minutes, polishing a brass grill exposed to the weather will be a bigger job. But it may be worth it to you. I will be trying some different waxes to see if something will maintain the shine longer.
    1 point
  12. An easy way to find the one tappet that is too loud : Start the engine and slid a feeler gauge into each slot one by one , when you get to the noisy tappet the noise will lessen . CLACk-CLACK-CLACK goes to click-click-click
    1 point
  13. Chrome is even more expensive in the People’s Republik of Kalifornia... but it looks better and maintains easier than any of the paint/powder alternatives. I even had my stainless Dodge emblem chromed to match.
    1 point
  14. I am going to have all my vehicles listed as surviving me in my obit......greatly missed by my local Advance Auto Parts...
    1 point
  15. Everyone calm down here.... Breathe... I am taking the necessary steps to avoid fines. After I get everything wrapped up, I will then decide on whether or not I want to be vigilant with this naughty neighbor. PS- this "neighbor" called the Sheriff on me, he was upset that I have one of my Kansas vehicles here... The Sheriff was not pleased. A big waste of time and a disservice. The Sheriff is a great guy, I am glad that I met him. He will help me if I ask for his wisdom in regards to how to handle the guy next door to me....
    1 point
  16. 1 point
  17. PC in them days meant Privileged Character....had a Marine tell me that as soon as they perfect walking on water they gonna do away with the Navy......
    1 point
  18. Got the driveshaft installed today and then started working on the shift linkage. It used to have a dog leg forward. I flattened it out on the press and then shaved the extra bolt length off to give it more clearance. Its pretty tight in Reverse and 2nd.
    1 point
  19. OK, so this cropped up on the frame swap thread, but I thought it might be worth putting in a separate thread. My car had most of the brightwork deleted some while ago, and being a Plodge, the chances of finding a Dodge hood ornament that would fit on a Plymouth hood was slim. I did, however, manage to find a correct 1941 Dodge one, but that was very short and clearly intended to join onto trim parts that weren't ever present on the Canadian Dodge. I also acquired a 1949 one, and that looked like a far better bet, but again was intended to connect to the long trim panel covering the central hood hinge. It would be fine, if only I could find a way to create a new end section for it... There is a lot of good info on HAMB about the joys of trying to weld, cast and replate potmetal, but as my emblem was not exactly show quality anyway, I figured I had nothing to lose. To start the process, I beat a sheet of aluminium to match the slope of the top of the hood ornament by laying it in the groove of a decking board and beating it with a brick bolster and a 2lb hammer. Quite satisfying. Next, I took a strip of aluminium and folded and beat it to the outline I wanted for my new end cap. Because this had to sit in the 'v' shaped plate, it needed a bit of surgery from the tin snips and a die grinder before it was a reasonably snug fit. Now the whole lot was assembled, with some copper wire used to to tighten the whole thing up, and the gaps round the outside sealed with modelling clay. The mould was filled with 1" lengths of plumbers' solder and then this was melted with a blowtorch. Once it had all cooled, the excess is easily trimmed away with a surform file, or any other tool that takes your fancy. Now, if I were doing this again, I might suggest the following: Use lead free solder initially. It has a very slightly higher melting point than lead/tin solder Use lead/tin solder to very carefully fill in any imperfections or voids Consider coating the hood ornament with flux to help adhesion. All a bit of an experiment, really, but it seems to work...
    1 point
  20. Engine comes home from the machine shop tomorrow. It's gonna be a good day. I can't wait for assembly.
    1 point
  21. I've made molds and cast parts before. The ideal thing is to have a sample part and then make a mold using a product like what you have listed. The trick would be finding the right resin to make what you want. Its been a while since I have done it, but it wouldn't take much time and I could have a decent mold in a couple of days of having the raw materials and parts. Cast lenses would be VERY shortly after having a good mold. Depending on the resin, you might need a vacuum chamber, which isn't a big deal for such a small mold, but it does add to expense for a couple of one off parts. Another option that I have toyed with in my mind - there is a fairly translucent 3D printer filament available that when coated can have good UV stability. Going this route it might be easy to make stock replacements - but if someone desired something a little custom it could be accomplished by changing the base model. I have the equipment to do this as well.
    1 point
  22. you can go to the local big box store and match/buy a preformed with a curve where needed and not have to worry about disturbing your housing in the least...you may need to trim one end or the other or maybe both to get the fit you want...my local store turns me loose in the back to find what I need as I do fit late model stuff into these old vehicles....makes life simple..
    1 point
  23. There was a guy that retired from the Navy and moved to the next county over a few years ago that wanted to make it his life's mission to make sure everybody kept their lawns cut to a uniform height,had no unlicensed cars on their property,kept their houses painted,etc,etc,etc. This is a rural area that had pretty lax zoning because in most cases nobody really lived next door to anybody else. Everybody had room to breathe. Then this guy started driving all around the county with his camera and his notebook,and insisting the zoning department follow up on his leads and take action. He even appeared on local tv bragging about how "I am determined to clean up this county." He even caused trouble for one guy I know who had been running a welding business next door to his house for maybe 40 years,and his father ran it there before him. He wasn't up to code. No handicapped parking,no public restrooms,too much scrap metal laying around in plain view,grass needed cutting out back,etc,etc,etc. Keep in mind this guy owned a small farm,and had no close neighbors to complain. In addition to all that,this was the first time anybody complained. It cost him several hundred dollars and several lost days of work to bring things up to code to avoid the fines. I'm not exactly sure what happened to the Navy guy after the tv appearance,where he vowed to start driving around the adjoining counties and clean them up after cleaning up the county he just moved to. He literally disappeared. Nobody has seen or heard from him since,and his property was sold to someone else. I asked the people I know that live in that county,and none of them know what happened to him,although everybody is happy he is gone. I strongly suspect somebody he knew wasn't kidding whispered some words of wisdom in his ear,though.
    1 point
  24. Some people are just not happy unless they are unhappy. The only solution to this is to offer to provide them a level of unhappy they can't live with,but this only works if it's obvious you mean it. You can start with calling the law on them for any real or imagined errors they made,and escalate as needed. If for whatever reasons you can't bring it up to a level where he either stops harassing you or you can't pressure him enough to make him sell out and move,your only two options are to either live with it or sell out and move yourself. Life is too short to allow yourself to become stressed out every day.
    1 point
  25. There are a few outfits out there with the old Sun machines that specialize in refurbishing and setting up "traditional" ignition systems. One example is "Bubba's Hot Rod Shop" in Indianapolis. Anyone spending several thousand dollars dollars on a new engine for their car would be well advised to send their distributor in for a "tune-up" as well. It's not that expensive. I share your opinion of Pertronix ignitions. There are far too many stories of them dying without notice at the most inconvenient times and in the most inconvenient places. I have never had a points ignition fail without providing plenty of notice. They just start to degrade very slowly. Anyone with an old car should be able to detect this in plenty of time to get home and correct the problem. As to points, there are quality examples available, you just have to know where to look for them. Myself, I have a "thing" for old Mallory "flattop" distributors, and Summit racing still has points for them. The only problem with component availability is with condensers. There are quality conventional condensers available if you know where to look. Unfortunately, the supply of the big brass Mallory "trash can" condensers seems to have completely dried up. Because of that, I am now reproducing them using modern severe-duty film capacitors. If anyone has any interest in them, they can contact me. Here's a couple of examples :
    1 point
  26. 1 point
  27. Salt rock, yes but used ACE Prep and Prime first. After a safety check on a lift and a few adjustments, my truck passed the pre BBQ road test. The drive is a 35 mile drive from 300' above sea level to 6500' which is a good pull. Temp leveled out at 190 degrees, oil pressure constant at 45 psi. I could have driven the distance in high but shifted down to 2nd at the end for higher rpms which rested the engine. The 2nd and over on an overdrive would have been perfect. I have the OD and will eventually install it.
    1 point
  28. Using a 12 Volt battery next to you, you can hook up your timing light to it, and it will work fine. I do it all the time. Once the pickup senses the spark, the light will flash. As far as the fine tuning goes, I always prefer the vacuum gauge method myself.
    1 point
  29. Tim, you have an amazing ability of writing. I think we just found our new Don Bunn. Congrats jb neal on the award
    1 point
  30. I don't know whether this works with a Pertronix. I'll leave that to others more familiar with them to explain. As to setting the timing with a vacuum gauge. What I do is get the engine running at a decent idle, and then twist the distributor, while watching the gauge.Turn the distributor (advancing it) until the vacuum gauge registers it's highest reading. Then, retard it just a smidge and tighten down the distributor. I always time my engines this way, especially modified ones. When you change the carburetor, compression, cam, or any other component affecting engine performance, you change the basic characteristics of the engine and the factory specs may no longer be valid. The light does get it very close to the factory initial setting which is very close to what the engine needs at low speeds.
    1 point
  31. back in the day, 60s-70s, when I was doing a lot of garage work, I always timed them this way, even when working on an engine assembly on the bench. I would complete the engine, carb, gen/alt, distributor, time using a battery to drive the light and install. The always started first try. And, I almost never used a timing light, just attach a vacuum gauge and fine tuned the timing if needed. This method, using the vacuum, gets the best setting for each engine. Any variance in machining keyways, gears, chains etc is accounted for. a timing light is only as good as all those variables. If the cam gear, crank gear, chain stretch, timing mark location, distributor gear, etc are not exactly to blueprint spec, the timing will not be ideal with a light, with a vacuum gauge, you get the best setting. At least that is IMHO. One change in your procedure: when doing it in the car, rather that using the light in series, I just attached to the coil and ground, paralleled. That reverses the light on/off. It will light when the points open.
    1 point
  32. Thanks. I've done design, layout, typography, web design and teaching for 35 years. It's a passion, and if it helps folks, that's a bonus.
    1 point
  33. I'm test driving my truck, all is checking out. I installed a new temp gauge today and took a quick drive. Temp read 175 degrees so good. Tomorrow I have a lift scheduled and new shocks on the back, then a run up the mountain. Spring flowers.
    1 point
  34. Talked with rustyhope this morning, got the front brakes sorted / ordered. Looking at ordering the fuel tank and going to call and ask about the sending unit. http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm I am switching to 12 volt negative ground at this point, sending units go by ohms and they have several choices, hoping they can sort it for me to work with the original gauge. Would love any feedback if someone knows. I need to look up and order a set of rubber gaskets for the windows ... thinking DCM off the top of my head. I need a 12 volt windshield wiper motor ..... DCM Need to sort the rear end. Going to call today and see what local wrecking yards have available in 3.73 ratio. I know jeep or explorer works well. Will need to build the flatbed, have all the material sitting here ... need a few brackets and screws I think May 1rst is a arbitrary number, but what am shooting for .... 30 days and going to drive this ol girl to Texas. Or call a shipping company and have her shipped. Would be nice if could at least start it and drive it on a trailer and use brakes to stop it.
    1 point
  35. The PCV Valve does 2 things; 1. Meter the amount of air flow from the crankcase to the intake. B. Closes off the passage way from the intake to the crankcase in the event of a backfire or afterfire. https://auto.howstuffworks.com/positive-crankcase-ventilation-system.htm
    1 point
  36. Upper breather hose would be representative of our oil fill tube. Breather chamber would represent our road draft tube
    1 point
  37. Maybe a turbocharged Hyabusa engine. I bet there are quite a of those laying around from all the wrecks. Chain drive and a live rear axle would work well since there doesn't appear to be a rear axle anyway. People are bragging about 650 hp out of one of the 1400 cc models.
    1 point
  38. I don't like the bubble top to a long trunk of a 2 door, I like the 4 doors more. That's my preference and if some us didn't like the 4 doors then there would be no 2 doors left for you...lol. besides my 5 kids could be a real pain in a 2 door
    1 point
  39. 1938-1951 Autolite Parts Catalog View File 1951 Edition Autolite Service and parts catalog - ignition and generator parts from 1938-1951. Submitter Lloyd Submitted 01/27/2018 Category Reference Information
    1 point
  40. Carter B & B Service Manual View File Rebuild information and specifications, part numbers and other information regarding Carter Ball & Ball carbs from about mid 40's to late 50's. Submitter Lloyd Submitted 01/27/2018 Category Reference Information
    1 point
  41. Paul, read the post carefully ;-)
    1 point
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