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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/02/2018 in all areas

  1. Picked up a new project last week. Really, really excited about it. I'm over 50 and have always had vintage cars, trucks, motorcycles and tractors. Have an extensive background in mechanics. Although, this truck has me a little stumped. The the previous owner bought this 1949 but never got around to working on it or get it running. He said it was a one ton truck. From the research I've been doing it looks more like a 1.5 ton truck. By the remnants of the door lettering this vehicle was once a Phillips 66 oil company truck out of Aurora Colorado. At some point it ended up in Louisiana. I can't seem to locate any info online regarding Dodge oil company or oil field trucks with exception to fuel trucks. Not sure what this truck was used for or what type of bed was originally on it. Appears a different bed was installed and homemade rear fender wells mounted. You can see center of rear axle doesn't line up with center of bed/fender well area. Kind of have the feeling someone shortened the wheelbase. Even is this is true I find the short wheel base large dual wheeled truck fascinating and very appealing. I also think it had a two speed rear axle, but it doesn't look to have it anymore. It still retains the flat head six cylinder coupled to a four speed transmission. There is a pull knob, left of the steering wheel, for a PTO. And the PTO cable routes under the cab ending near the right side of the transmission but is sitting in the right side of the frame. The is nothing attached to the transmission. Just the pto block off plate. In front the the rear differential, on the left inside of frame, is a large vacuum diaphragm. Not certain yet but appears to be a master cylinder attached to the vacuum diaphragm with brake lines going to it. Think it was used to trailer pulling purposes? Enough of my talk for now. Check out photos and please share feedback. Thanks
    3 points
  2. Those springs could be from 2 separate fuel pump failings. If the fulcrum pin on the fuel pump goes it can shoot the spring into the pan. I had it happen on my '38 truck. Pete
    2 points
  3. Latest news... Bought a Quonset Hut. Next step involves lots of trips to the planning department. If it's legal, the neighbor can just pucker up!!! LOL
    2 points
  4. Well the snow and rain held off until the end of the day, so we made out alright at the Easter Parade. Saw a few new-to-me local Mopars. My car next to a really, really nice Cadillac. I volunteered to drive the Club's restored 1952 Austin Ambulance seen here. My my wife rode shotgun and worked the air raid siren. My younger son drove my Chrysler, with his older Brother and Grandmother as passengers in the parade. Was a good day had by all.
    2 points
  5. Conversation number 1. Perchance I found the truck sitting in a rural yard by the road. The lady told me her sister had purchased it from an Indian lady who had driven it to California from Arizona. Her sister died four years ago, the truck had been parked there for 17 years and she wished someone would remove it. When I asked how much she would sell it for she apologetically replied, $200.00. The grill was missing and the head was in the bed. I gave her $200.00 and went home and returned with a trailer. I had zero mechanical knowledge so it sat for another three years and then out of curiosity I started to fix things. I figured I could remove an item clean and fix it and replace it.. Then I found Greybeard (since deceased) he talked me through the engine rebuild and I found this forum and my hobby began.
    2 points
  6. It might also be a splendid time to develop an interest in collecting and running old 'Hit and Miss' engines and machinery.
    2 points
  7. I'm test driving my truck, all is checking out. I installed a new temp gauge today and took a quick drive. Temp read 175 degrees so good. Tomorrow I have a lift scheduled and new shocks on the back, then a run up the mountain. Spring flowers.
    1 point
  8. those are the anti-sludge build up springs.
    1 point
  9. Well, the emblem was pretty rotten pot metal, and the chroming was was padly pitted, so it was never going to be show quality. I just took a couple of bits of aluminium, bent one into a vee with a brick bolster and a lump hammer, bent the other in the vise and trimmed it to shape with a die grinder, then wired the whole lot round the end of the emblem I had with copper wire. I sealed the sides with clay, filled it with inch long clippings of plumbers' lead solder and set to with a blowtorch. I'll post some pics tomorrow. It's far from perfect, but I suspect it could be improved a lot and plated over, if I had a mind...
    1 point
  10. Strangely enough I did not know there were diesel hit and miss engines. I've seen some quite large gas hit and miss engines but never a diesel. I don't think this one would pass modern pollution regulations. I sure would love to see and feel it run as it apparently shakes the ground according to what I googled about it. Certainly be a great obnoxious neighbour deterrent! Just fire it up when they are downwind of you.
    1 point
  11. California is probably in the top 5 globally in regards to the amount of hot rods or modified vehicles on the road, probably #1... I cannot remember the last time I heard of a poorly modified vehicle causing an issue or an accident on the road because of it's modifications. There were a few on the HAMB regarding aftermarket Ford cast I-beam axles failing but that is a purchased and supposed engineered product (by someone with an Engineering Degree no less), not a garage modification. Believe me, if a vehicle caused an accident here because of being modified it would be all over the news! I have also seen some really scary setups particularly with subframes or frame swaps, but no wrecks. Most of these setups have been on the road for a long time too. We also have some of the cr@ppiest roads and the worst traffic in the country here so they are not babied. So, I stand by my remarks saying these gommerment mandated inspections are nothing more than extortion and control. The data is here in California to back it up too. The inability to see it for what it is and to defend it is shows how complacent with control society has become. I can understand some sort of inspection in salt states because the cars just rot away from under you and I can even see the value in bi-annual smog checks but the fact that some idiot with a piece of paper (degree) who has probably never lifted a welding torch or had a grinder eat his thumb up telling me how to build a chassis is absurd. I've been installing suspensions, pro streeting chassis, subframing vehicles for 25 years without failure and WOW I don't have a metallurgy degree or mechanical engineering degree, Why? Because it's NOT rocket science. Andy- In NO way am I trying to single you out and I truly apologize if it comes off that way. You have been doing this a long time also and do some top notch work and have a beautiful MOPAR. I especially like the early V8 you installed and proven over many miles of enjoyment. Adam EDIT: I certainly did not intend the above post to be political in any way. I also did not intend to single anyone out. That said, this is a debate thread as the title says, correct?
    1 point
  12. Yes, Rusty's kit up front, 98 Cherokee rear axle, 3:73, and '98 Cherokee master cylinder, on my B3B truck. Been six years, very pleased
    1 point
  13. Lots of discussions on the dual mast swap, just search Cherokee master cylinder and it should show you the process. Rusty hope is great from my experience, and allows you to go buy the rest of the parts saving wherever you can
    1 point
  14. Buy an OE Autolite regulator that is in the original box and looks like it has always had good dry storage. I have bought a couple off Ebay easily. Also look at the wiring screws and base mounting screw holes of the supposedly NOS regulator to be sure it has never been mounted or installed. I don't know the answers on your other questions.
    1 point
  15. 1 point
  16. Yikes! Another senior moment! Black to the - post. But you knew that. Thanks for the wake up!
    1 point
  17. Actually, a blown fuse would indicate a drop in resistance, likely caused by a short circuit or a fused coil in a relay. An increase in resistance would cause the wire to get hot, like an incandescent bulb.
    1 point
  18. Memory conversation #3: prior to the shop fire I drove my truck up the mountain to Grant Grove where the General Sherman and General Grant Giant Sequoia trees are. Shortly after parking, a gentle man and his son walked up to me. They were from Germany, the son said they were surprised to see such an old truck drive into the parking lot. In Gemany old vehicles like mine are only in museums. When I opened the hood and started the engine the fathers face just beamed. I took a picture of the two beside the truck with their camera. On Monday the truck goes on lift for a BBQ safety check,, then a drive up the mountain for the road test. The trees are at 7,000'' about 50 miles from our home so it's a fun test drive.
    1 point
  19. I was at a car show & shine here in Alberta a couple of years ago and spotted a 3 window coupe that caught my attention. The car looked fantastic ,body/paint, custom interior.and engine detailing. Speaking with the owner and complimenting him on the car, he said he purchased the car, (out -of- province),as it was a model he had always wanted and I gathered to say the least it wasn't cheap. He said there was a problem with the steering /front suspension and he trailered the car to the show. I didn't press him for details.To each, his own but if you can't drive it on the highway what's the point of owning the vehicle. jmho
    1 point
  20. These are the head bolts I used,listed as GM v8 fitment. 25 is the piece count I bought 21 for around a buck each 12 years ago. No issues. Number should cross reference to other brands. Machine shop sourced these for me.
    1 point
  21. 15 amps should be more than adequate. If they keep blowing, the that would suggest increased resistance in the circuit due to corrosion on conections and terminals, or improper grounds. Check clean and tighten all those connections and give them a coating of dielectric grease.
    1 point
  22. The standard annual safety inspection here in New South Wales is carried out by state licenced inspectors who are trade qualified motor mechanics.....they are subject to regular inspections of vehicles that have been passed by them each year by other inspectors..this applies to all vehicles except if they have a "limited use" rego then they are inspected each year by inspectors who know what they are allowed to have............as for modified vehicles you need to have it checked at least 3 times in the build by Engineer Signatorys, as a rule these guys are university qualified in mechanical engineering and tend to be experienced in metalurgy and structural design.......................my Dodge was modified before this system came into being so I only have to get the car passed its general safety inspection each year ................I'm not an apologist for this system but its what we have and it tends to keep crap off the roads......................each state in Oz has variations of this system, some slightly harder or easier....................but as Wiggo mentions the 100% new chassis even if a dead nuts copy of an original with new thicker steel still has the problem that its not an original and generally the best it can hope for is a variation of a Limited use rego.............or try for certification as an "Individually Constructed Vehicle".....essentially the same rules or ADR's(Australian Design Rules) as the 2018 cars by Ford,GM, Rolls, whatever.....................andyd
    1 point
  23. There is no chocolate better than Belgian. Thank you. As for the relay and its fuse, I think it calls for 15 amp but in my own cars I have experienced fuse failure, usually when a lot of in and out of overdrive is done such as city traffic. Increasing it to 25 or even 30 amps seems to prevent this problem without endangering the circuit.
    1 point
  24. A 100% custom frame has no 'identity', VIN or registration number, so to register it for the road it is treated as a brand new car and has to be tested to 2018 standards. Of course, you can start with a rotted out 1940's frame, and slowly replace every piece of steel with new, as long as it is identical to the original, and you retain the bit with the VIN stamped in... That can retain its 1940's identity and is treated as an historic vehicle. Monocoque vehicles are even more problematic: you can't touch anything. No tubbed rears, modified firewalls, replaced tunnels, relocated suspension towers... Having said all of that, there's a guy over here who took a London black cab chassis, with original steering, axles and suspension, then added TWO 4.2 litre Jaguar straight six engines to make an inline 12...
    1 point
  25. Why not just slip the drums on to bleed the system?... that's the smart one time way. The shoes even with the return springs with hydraulic pressure behind them will easily blow the straps or clamps off once most of the air is removed. Then a piston or two will be pushed out with the cup and a new bleed procedure will commence. Not fun and a waste of fluid and time.
    1 point
  26. Well, I got the front brakes done and out for a test run on the expressway (neighborhood first). No more funny business with the brake pedal. The pads on the passenger side were fine, though have now been replaced. Will replace the rears in the near future. Yes Merle, I did get the brakes arced and I tried to dial them in as well as I could. I now have a nice strong clutch and brakes, and ready for the next issue! Thanks again to all for your ongoing support.
    1 point
  27. It's been some time since I last posted progress on the coupe truck. Not much has changed since then and we are still nearing panel work completion. My bank account has been well and truly drained, and I am fast nearing the point where I have just about had enough. I am told now that there is just some minor messing around required to get the tailgate fitted, and then they are ready to resume blocking and sanding. I may bring the truck home for a few months for a bit of a break yet. I am happy with the work to date, but the amount of hours and dollars that have gone into this project are absolutely ridiculous. We live and learn hey! Here's a few pics of where we're at for now..
    1 point
  28. Jim Shepard and his 1950 B2B......2017 10th Annual Best Of Show. 48D
    1 point
  29. Ok.... Show up Friday afternoon......cleanup/campfire/camping Saturday ................truck show (cars) BBQ etc/camping Sunday .................early morning coffee chillin'/load and go Not everyone does that...but more and more are.....and its fun! 3 weeks!!!! Its in 3 weeks!!!!! 48D
    1 point
  30. Just finishing lunch then taking the '38 Dodge for a ride, snow in the fields and just below freezing but the roads are dry. Have to dress warm, as there is no heater and I insulated the fire wall well. But it is still warmer than the snowmobile or the motorcycles. The '41 Chrysler is a bit more of a princess, she is ready to go but I will wait for some rain to wash some of the salt off the roads.
    1 point
  31. We take ours pretty much anywhere for a tour or show. We never trailer. We do park them in the winter while the salt is on the road, but when the weather is good distance isn't much of factor for a show. At that point it comes down to if we have the time. I think the farthest distance we've done in one day is around 700 miles a few years ago to Minneapolis from Ohio in our 41 Desoto. All of our cars have stock drive-trains. They were made to drive and go down the road right? The picture below is from last summer on a tour. It covered around 1,000 miles in a week.
    1 point
  32. I drive my '52 B3B nearly every day. Today I'm picking up a 218 engine. Pic taken at Kettleman City. I met a feoow MOPAR friend there for lunch, 90 miles one way, fun day.
    1 point
  33. Taking my suburban on the power tour this year approx 2500 miles will also be at good guys Nashville in May. O
    1 point
  34. I agree, the big inch strokers don't seem to have much trouble, or at least no more than you'd expect from any hot rodded motor. I've owned a bunch of BMW's, Moto Guzzis, and British motorcycles and currently have a Twin Cam bike, too. They all have their good and bad points but I really love shovelheads. Maybe it's all the years I've ridden them but they just feel right to me. The Evo and Twin Cam Harleys are kinda like BMW's to me. Great motorcycles, good power and dependability, but not much "Fahrfegnugen". I just noticed you have an '83 FXR... That is a GREAT motorcycle, maybe the best H-D of all time..
    1 point
  35. The 113" and 117" S&S evo based engines seem to hold up well under abuse. They were offered as the standard engine in a lot of the hot rod choppers like the Ultra ground pounders. Even offered with a warranty. I've known people that have abused the 113" engines. The engine itself never give any problem it was the clutch, primary and further down the drive line that would have issues from the beating. I have been told the bigger strokers will beat dents In the bearings if you lug them. I do understand how your interest and point of view on the Shovel's, nothing beats the sound or feel. They are my favorite. I think that engine is where the statement " if I have to explain, you wouldn't understand " comes from.
    1 point
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