Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/19/2018 in all areas

  1. I finally finished the cut and buff on the paint, this weekend. My arms are pretty sore! It looks good for a DIY job in a dirty garage. I also put the rear fenders on for the last time! I still need to push the fender welt in though and tighten the bolts.
    4 points
  2. Took me 62 years of hard work to get 52 weeks vacation.
    3 points
  3. As someone who stepped up to the plate 10 yrs ago and bought a finned Head for the 230 i was building from Earl and after freight it cost over $1200.00 Australian I would suggest that one reason for the cost of these is purely an economic one based on the market size.........I sincerely hope that they HAVE to make hundreds if not thousands to satisfy the demand but unfortunately that may not be the case so the smaller number that are made result in a higher cost............just hope it remains a viable proposition for all concerned..........andyd.
    2 points
  4. LOL, that look was not from driving the truck....... she is not a fan of having her photo taken, let alone being recorded. side note, our hopes of bringing the truck are diminishing fast..... last year I borrow my neighbors trailer, for this year, I asked him back in November if I could use it again. He recently loaned it out (in January) and he doesn't know when it will be back. sigh, well, that won't happen again.... time to get my own (have a bigger trip in mind for next year)
    2 points
  5. Got my vacation time approved......3 weeks.....why???? Cuz you crazy truck people wear me out!!!! 1 week before the show and 2 weeks after to recover! I need it, I'm getting old, 54 years old! I was 43 when I started this incredible event with my incredible friends....now its my favorite time of the year! This is the first time I'm taking this much time off work....what it means is I can spend quality time with all my buddies who stay days before and after the event......I'm a lucky dude. Look forward to seeing you all again this year. And a big shout out to my friend Davin, who hopefully makes it for the THIRD time from Oz in 2020. You can thank him Brent....there will be a Lucky # 13teen....lol Tim aka 48Dodger
    2 points
  6. Taking her to a lot of car shows now. This one is in Brooksville, FL
    2 points
  7. I went on hiatus here for 6 months, Hurricane Harvey did not affect me directly but I had too many other projects going on that have eaten up my time in the interim, mainly helping out neighbors who aren't able to do some things on their own...so far have logged over 2,000 miles on my truck this month already while taking care of business...as for FB, I use it mainly to play Scrabble with some ppl and to document my unbelievable yet true stories of interaction with the rest of the world, which has included many pieces of photographic evidence...such as the time that schools were shutting down and businesses were closing because of a nasty winter weather blast that was en route...and things did not go quite to what was forecast, but I was iced in and had to stay at home that day anyways...
    2 points
  8. Inspired by @Worden18 and his Meadowbrook thread , I decided that I will host a thread of my 1953 Chrysler Windsor Deluxe this season. I was thinking about why I wanted to do this. Why share my year of travels and interactions in my old Mopar on the internet? I think there are several good reasons. None really more important than any other. Arguably it could summed up as just plain cool. It feels good to know that here at P15-D24, there are many others who share my passion for the old Mopars. We have a lot in common. We have lots to share. The good folks here care about keeping these old cars running and out on the roads. And if like me, enjoy reading other's adventures. Seeing the sites in another part of the world is fun. Every photo tells a thousand words. I hope there will be lots to show and tell this coming season. I also want to give back a little to this forum. The help I found here is much appreciated. Maybe I can repay you folks a little by giving you a little entertainment. Here we go.... My car season is anxiously beginning as temps are forecasted to hit 17C (62F) over the next few days. That'll kick start the big snow melt. My Chrysler is ready to cruise now after a busy winter. We sold our home and moved in the middle of my planned winter car repair schedule. Then we went on a 10 day trip to a much warmer climate. Since I got back home and settled, I've been busting my knuckles getting everything I wanted done to the car before the April 1 deadline. That's when Vintage Car Club Parade is. I'm not sure who's more excited. My 19 yr old son or I, for the cruising season. He's almost found daily out in the garage, sitting in the car making vroom- vroom noises. "Feeling the new brakes and clutch pedal adjustments", he says. Tonight my car is jockey'd up in the garage ready to get out. Hopefully the snow on the sides of the roads get knocked back enough this weekend to keep water off the pavement. Then it's go time. Cruising 2018 is but just around the bend here.
    1 point
  9. Just wondering how many of you truck owners would be interested in having a get together in Southern Illinois Shawnee National Forest? I would be glad to act as host. We have the Sahara Woods State Wildlife Preserve 3 miles from us. There is small boating, fishing lake there. Plenty of hiking trails and bicycle trail that runs some 60+ miles. (Tunnel Hill State Trail) Or there is Fern Clyffe Forest preserve 20 miles from us that has camping and hiking trails. There are several other options depending on what side activities people would want to do. Could plan it for this summer/fall or next spring. Easy access to Southern Illinois via 64, 57, 24, 70. We would enjoy attending those such events in California or Utah but don't think we could make the drive in our 60+ year old truck. The truck would make it. Ok, we are spoiled by todays automotive comforts. I just thought it would be interesting to start an annual event here in the midwest. Well, quite frankly our coal mining communities could use a shot in the arm. Give me some feedback, thoughts, ideas.
    1 point
  10. Guys,if you want one of the 23 or 25 inch Edgy heads,now is the time to buy it because they are just starting the pour,and the first 25 buyers of each will get a 1 to 25 special serial number on it. More importantly,you get $200 off for making a early buy. And "No,mine is NOT going to be for sale!" BTW,my only connection with the Montana Boys is a few emails. Never met them in my life and have no financial,family,or business connections with them.
    1 point
  11. So we agree that if the manufacturer gives you the CCs of the chambers then its OK - and those numbers should be easily provided to you for a new head no matter what the material it is cast in. The way your post read it was like aluminum it was a great unknown, but making it of iron would solve that. Making new heads out of iron wouldn't be difficult, but it would be spendy because of the new molds required.
    1 point
  12. Are you checking the end play with both sides installed? It can be a common mistake to adjust one side without the other side installed. You need them both contacting the center block to get a correct measurement.
    1 point
  13. I pretty much didn't have any choice. I am stuck on loving 1950's style hot rods,and it ain't a 50's hot rod without finned aluminum heads on flatheads. Besides,I will be getting paid back in smiles every time I open the hood and see that finned aluminum head and the 3 carbs. How much money are smiles worth?
    1 point
  14. Well, I guess maybe not "factory" but when I got the car ('47 Plymouth Deluxe) the engine serial# is P22 (1951) and it has a split exhaust manifold
    1 point
  15. Hi Reg I'm in the hills just north of El Dorado Hills
    1 point
  16. https://www.moparmontana.com/
    1 point
  17. I just love the compound curve of the trunk lid on these sedans. The rear end looks kind of like a rhinoceros' butt.
    1 point
  18. I've had carpal tunnel pain in my left thumb and wrist off and on for at least 30 years. I also have a small lump in my left palm. The doctors say they were brought on by repetitive motion damage. It has been severe enough at times that my wrist won't bend. Not that it won't bend without pain, it just won't bend. The doctors recommended surgery in the early '90s but I declined and just use a wrist brace when it's acting up. Ditto for the elbows. My son has some problems, too; due to an injury. They replaced one of the tendons with one from his wrist and now his left middle finger won't bend.. He says it's handy for driving in Chicago traffic but it sucks for saxophone playing.. Decades of hard manual labor won't kill you but it will break you down..
    1 point
  19. Gary, I own a ‘39 4 dr sedan. The previous owner adapted metal boxes for on-off wall switches for tail light buckets. They use the original lenses and bezels. Cannot tell it until lense is removed to replace a bulb. I found what was left of the original buckets in the trunk, severely rusted and unusable. All ‘39’s I have seen use the same tail light, and it is the smaller one you have pictured. Keep your eye on EBAY as the bezels do appear occasionally.
    1 point
  20. 1 point
  21. After purchasing a '47 Chrysler Windsor 4dr that had been sitting in a garage for over 8 years, I have finally got it to a point that I feel the car deserves. The previous owner past away a few months ago and had the vehicle stored away untouched as he was getting too old to maintain or drive it. The widow sold it to me for a great price since she knew I would restore the car back to its original glory and keep it in my family, and most importantly, DRIVE IT. It took me several weeks to accomplish but now the engine runs beautifully with a cleaned up engine compartment and the paint has been properly hand buffed and waxed. The interior was already in great shape but I am meticulously going through and replacing any dash wiring that needs attention due to dry rot. All fluids have been replaced except for the fluid drive since I haven't been able to source the fluid; finding the tranny fluid (SAE 10W) was hard enough to finally locate at TSC. I'm very proud on how she turned out and was able to give the original owner's widow a ride in it today. She was amazed on how it turned out which made me very happy.
    1 point
  22. I really looking forward to being back in 2020 Tim. I would like to spend at least a few of days in your town next trip. I'm hoping to bring the wifey with me on that trip too. We're off to London for a white Christmas this year... and may concentrate on some local trips within Oz in 2019. You guys have strange vacation times over there. It seems that one has to work for the same company for many years to get 4 weeks leave per year - 4 weeks is pretty much the normal here in Oz. I get 6 weeks vacation time each year because of all the night shifts which I am required to do. I reckon that 6 weeks is too long, but I seem to fill in much of my spare time nowadays with charity work! I look forward to seeing many photos from this year's 'Q' and will look on with envy!!!
    1 point
  23. Sounds awesome!! Congrats!!
    1 point
  24. It's made by KBS coatings. I get it from Summit Racing. I have used this on many old rusty tanks before but never on a new tank. I figured it would also keep the ethanol gas we have here from rusting the tank. It's a three step process. First a heavy duty cleaner/degreaser, you let it soak and agitat as needed. This tank was new so it only took a few minutes. then a deruster/etching wash with a phosphoric acid based chemical. There was no real rust in this tank so again it was a quick process. The etch preps the metal for the coating. Last step is to pour the coating into the tanks and swirl it all over the insides then drain out the excess and let it cure fr 24 hours. It's all straight forward but very messy. The picture is what the tank looks like just before the coating. The flash rust is helpful with the adhesion. It looks like **** but it's fine. Greg
    1 point
  25. thanks for all the concern, thanks for the kind words, I do have some fabrication abilities, I am not looking for a step by step how to. I have several rear ends, both 8 and 9 inch fords laying around the shop, driveshaft is 100 bucks, had 1 done for my truck. I have a friend that did the exact swap on a 49 Desoto, he shifted the engine 2 inches to the passenger side. no problem with stock steering, nor with starter and exhaust. I also have a bunch of club brothers to help if needed, and seems like there are a bunch of people here willing to help. Thanks!!!
    1 point
  26. Also if you don't particularly like the Torqueflite push button setup as I did after a couple of years you can find any Mopar or late 60's Valiant auto console as I did and modify the shifter to have a small pin on it to move the inner cable and make a bracket to hold the outer cable and the Valiant shifter works the push button cast iron gearbox & has done so for 40 yrs..........I ended up getting a shorter custom made cable after a few more years as the original cable was just too long and kept getting in the way but its possible to adapt/modify or change to suit your needs............andyd
    1 point
  27. My comments were not intended to be doom or gloom.....simply a short list of adaptations that must be done in order to swap motors.....there are no bolt in swaps plain and simple, if you want to swap get ready to hunker down and get to work ......if you can't do the work then get ready to pay to play. I hope you find what you want Scott 350 chevy [yuck...lol.], 318...stock or modified 6, I wish you nothing but the best of luck with your project!
    1 point
  28. MOTOR WHEELS made the early mopar wire rims and they were available painted and chrome. There was also a faux wire wheel cap made by Cello that was available. The wire wheels are being reproduced as are replacement center caps if you luck to have a set of original wires. Follow this link if interested..... http://www.hobbycar.com/chrysler.html
    1 point
  29. go to the flea market, swap meet, pawn shop or neighbors garage while he is eating supper, grab a couple stock wrenches, grind them to the thickness you need, heck heat and bend them to fit you ergonomically......its not really that complicated
    1 point
  30. Seems some like to piss in other Wheaties! Stock steering clearance? Trans mount? Can he weld or have others do it? Here is a motor mount kit, trans mount kit to fit with 1" passenger offset for $300. http://www.butchscoolstuff.com/eng-trans-mounting-kits-4/ DJ
    1 point
  31. Who cares! Building a car is supposed to be fun. Take your time and enjoy the build and all of its challenges. Don't let them get you down A lot of doom and gloom here lately.
    1 point
  32. That's true, but then with the tip toe, unless low range is needed, should be able to use one leg for operation. A working parking brake to hold car while shifting to reverse or forward, and beyond that it's automatic.. No reason not to try and see if it can be driven like that Also an option to add a VW Autostick diaphram, with a vac servo. Push button clutch. swap the horn ring for use as the clutch switch, and hide a horn button
    1 point
  33. You only need the clutch for starting off, waiting for a long train, and for shutting down. If you had to, you could use a cane to work the clutch. Or come up with a Rube Goldberg contraption. Or find out what is available commercially. It sounds a lot easier than putting in an automatic transmission.
    1 point
  34. my choice would be a 54 or 55 Powerflite from a six cylinder car with the lever shift which could be connected to the column shifter. Some sort of throttle position linkage would also be needed. There is a kit out there which will allow a GM 350 trans to be attached but I am not sure what can be done about the rear engine mounts. Also, you might consider a hand control for the clutch. There was a 52 Chrysler around here which worked out very well for the owner. I cannot supply a picture but I do know that there were many such arrangements following WW2 which enabled disabled vets to drive cars which were at that time mostly standard shift. Such an apparatus could be used for the clutch only.
    1 point
  35. BTW,I happen to know for a fact that the 56 DeSoto's also has similar push-button shift box for the 2 speed auto transmissions they use. I have one sitting out in my yard in the 56 DeSoto parts car I bought as a donor car for my 33 Plymouth coupe. It has the 330 hemi,and the 2 speed auto trans with push-button controls. The 55 DeSotos used a lever gear selector in the dash like the Chryslers. Since the Powerflite trans first came out in 1954,it MIGHT also be a bolt on to the 251 flat 6's. BTW,it SEEMS the 54 Mopars with automatic transmissions used a gear selector dial mounted on top of the steering column,like Ford and GM. If you were to buy one of these you might have to get the steering box also,or try to find and buy either a 2 speed dash selector and cable,or a floor shift conversion. Cars with automatic transmissions and gear selectors on the column had longer steering shafts and columns than the standard shift cars. According to All Par,Mopar used the 2 speed auto trans in different applications right up to 1961. https://www.allpar.com/mopar/powerflite.html
    1 point
  36. Here in Oz Chrysler used both the 23" and 25" engines sometimes BOTH in the same year but depending on whether you ordered a standard 3 speed, with overdrive or an automatic then that determined which engine you got, the reason I mention this is that from at least 1957 here in Oz, the Australian Chrysler Royal which was based on a 1954 Plymouth body & chassis with the 25" 250 cube engine had firstly the 2 speed Powerflite operated via push buttons then the 3 speed Torqueflite was used till the end of the Chrysler Royal production.......the use here in Oz would have been via the importation of US sourced bellhousings and the relevant transmissions........there MUST be someone in the USA who knows for certain which bellhousings fit what.......for my money I'd be trying to fit a 3 speed Torqueflite with its square shaped push button setup from a 57 onwards Dodge or Plymouth, neat and relatively easy to adapt to another car.............Knuckle..........have you tried to fit the 55 Plymouth trans & torque convertor to the 250/251 De Soto engine?............the reason I suggest the T'flite trans is that it has the simple to mount square selector button arrangement............when I 1st installed the 318 Poly& T/Flite in my 1940 Dodge in 1973 the square push buttons were easily mounted in a home made box so I know it works that way........lol...........andyd
    1 point
  37. I am guessing/hoping a 55-59 Mopar automatic transmission will work. I bought a 55 Plymouth parts car last summer than has a 230 and a two speed automatic with the shift lever in the dashboard in case I need it for my 42 Dodge coupe. I also have a good-running 251 DeSoto flat 6 that I might use if the 230 in the Plymouth turns out to be cracked or I can't use it for some other reason. I am ASSUMING the 230 auto trans will bolt to the 251 engine if I have to go that route. Also try to buy the carb with the dashpot and the linkage from the firewall to the carb from the donor car if you can. I am not sure if the 51 semi-auto uses the same final gear ratio as the later model 2 or 3 speed autos or not. Maybe someone else can chip in on this that does know for a fact. If the gear ratio is different you will need to try to buy the original rear from the donor car,or the correct ring and pinion gear to install in your car so the speedometer works correctly. I am GUESSING a EARLY 50's Chrysler or DeSoto with the flat 6 and 2 speed auto PROBABLY uses the same gear ration as your 51 Chrysler with the semi-auto,but could be wrong. Find out BEFORE you buy so you can maybe buy it all in a package deal if you need it, and save some money. It is even possible the early hemi's with auto trans used the same ratio. If you buy one,do your damnedest to buy one complete with the dashboard controls and the most especially,the shift cable. Many/most seem to have been pulled from the cars in scrap yards that just cut the cable to pull the transmissions,and the shift cables are very hard to find and expensive. Also,measure how long your driveshaft is,and find out how long the driveshaft is on any possible donor cars in case you need to buy that,too. The 55-56 transmissions use the 2 speed auto with the chrome shift lever that sticks out of the dashboard,and if you can find one chances are it will be a lot cheaper than the later 3 speed versions that have the push-button controls on the dash. Due to lesser demand,not because the 2 speed is inferior or faulty. The VA has been wanting to amputate my left leg for 10 years or more because it keeps getting infected due to a botched operation at a VA hospital that killed the circulation,and one day if I live long enough,that is an argument they are going to win. Because of this I have been trying to plan ahead. If all this seems to be too complicated or too much work for you,you might want to consider selling your 51 and just buying a early 50's version that came from the factory with the 2 speed auto. The 53 and 54's probably sell for roughly the same amount as your 51,and even the 55 and 56's aren't that much more expensive unless you go for a convertible or stationwagon. The 2dr ht's will probably be a little more pricey,but if you can live with a 4dr sedan,you can probably sell yours for enough to buy one. Maybe someone else that knows more and doesn't have to do so much guessing will chime in to help you?
    1 point
  38. It will actually work better than the IGS. better advance curve.
    1 point
  39. No they dont necessarily. But most manufacturers and jurisdictions limit passenger car brake drums to .060 over size and some to .090 stamped on drums at times too. I would keep it to .060 on these to be honest as to not have any issues with the shoes expansion limits are not too far exceeded.
    1 point
  40. The distributor number that you use to order parts is IAT 4011 . It was used in 1951 Plymouth cars . Here are Auto-Lite part numbers ; cap IAT - 1033 , rotor IAU- 1016A , contact set ( points ) IGW- 3028BS , condenser IAT-3076RA . I buy my NOS Auto-Lite parts on ebay for the quality .
    1 point
  41. Paul. That’s a good look’n cat. I see a bit of a resemblance. Maybe it’s the ear hair
    1 point
  42. Little mock up for the tach! Looks at home in there!
    1 point
  43. tested the flag today, I think it will make from the motel in Lodi to the ranch
    1 point
  44. Brent, I agree! My Dad's tractor, found and restored in 2015.
    1 point
  45. We dug through the engine pile on the Ranch and found a beautiful standard bore 230. We will be disassemble, tank, inspect and magnaflux this weekend.
    1 point
  46. I've been clearing out projects, equipment and trucks from the shop area....my wife calls it "nesting"...lol I call it getting ready for the BEST show of the year! I got a call from the 3 different COE guys...looks like they will be back this year... so I guess I need to work on the wife's project, or I might be in a bit of trouble...:D Also heard from a local ford truck club...they'd like to come....I said "yes" of course, "we need target practice".....just kidding, every one is welcome, trucks, cars, COE's, muscle cars, vintage wagons, etc.....we'll show our Dodges off to anyone who wants to show up...:D Its getting closer....time to GET'ER CLEANED UP,TUNED UP AND READY TO ROOOOLLLLLL!! WOHOOO!!!! 48D
    1 point
  47. Pictured is a mock up of a log manifold I was setting up a few years back.
    1 point
  48. Ok, I have had one of just about every type and class of car built between 1927 and 1971. Sondra and I purchased and drove our '47 Desoto Suburban back from Sandpoint, ID to San Francisco some 13 years ago. The speedometer cable broke on trip and nothing else. About 2004 I rebuilt the engine very well. Some of the old timers around here may remember the attention to detail I did on that rebuild. I removed the M5 trans and keeping the fluid coupling and added the 3-speed with Borg-Warner OD. I rebuilt the king pins, new tie rods, new wheel bearings and brakes. I run a 6 volt alternator and I made a front disc brake conversion for it. I drive this car around the hills, stop signs, and traffic lights in San Francisco. I take the car 100 miles away to our place in the country at least one a month doing 65-70 all the way. I load the car up with 6 or 8 people on a regular basis. Over the last 10 years the only reliability issues I have had was with carburetor or vacuum advance. I drive it about twice a week. Starts up fine. It has never left me stranded on the road. I would think nothing of jumping in and driving to the Atlantic is the need arose.
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use