Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/18/2018 in all areas

  1. Bringing this back so I can add to it. I finally got to road test it and I hadn’t made any other changes besides the intake and headers. The exhaust is y-piped into a single 2.25 pipe going through a stock 2010 Mustang GT muffler exiting before the rear tire. It sounds pretty good and works well. Engine is a fairly stock fresh 230 with a .030 overbore and .050 off the head, cam is stock. It has a modified slant 6 distributor, 1.5 ohm canister coil, HEI module and plugs set at .040. Using 7mm resistor wires. Went from the stock intake and exhaust and Carter carb. The ignition system was already done so it is not new. Other than taking a screwdriver to the Weber’s, I haven’t made any changes, they are Langdons out of the box First impressions: BOTTOM END improvement! Big difference down low! It idles really well and better throttle response all around. Even works ok with the Fluid Drive despite not having a dashpot but I may add one. 2000 rpm and punch it: good improvement. Slight bog when the secondaries open but it pulls through and if you roll into it, no bog at all. 3500-4500: I’m almost never there but I backed out at 4500 and it was still pulling so I’m definitely not running out of carb. Overall I’m very happy with the results. Hope this helps someone who is considering similar mods. Adam
    3 points
  2. I'll try to document my adventure in removal of a stuck oil pressure relief valve for others who may have a similar problem. Many of you will not have to go to the extremes I did and only need to try some of them. Maybe this will be a source to consider should you ever encounter similar problems. Symptoms: Excessive oil pressure can be noted by a pegged oil gauge. If your engine is equipped with an oil filter, oil may be forced past the oil filter gasket. Spin on filters may blow the gasket out of the oil filter no mater how much you tighten the filter. The high oil pressure reading may be only at startup and may be followed by low oil pressure afterward. Oil pressure relief valves can stick both ways, sticking closed at startup and open after warm up and exhibit low oil pressure. Remedy: An initial attempt at determining how stuck your relief valve is can give you some clue as to how far you will have to go to fix your problem. A newly installed relief valve that is well lubricated should easily slip in and out of its bore by inserting the tip of you pinky finger and pulling it out. In my case I started with it completely stuck and rusted fast. The best advice to start with is to attempt to lodge a 1/4 npt pipe tap into the end of the relief valve piston. the tip of the pipe tap may need to be ground down to facilitate a tight fit without bottoming out in the end of the piston. Use an open end or adjustable wrench to turn the pipe tap while taping the square end of the tap. The metal the piston is constructed of is case hardened and the threads of the tap will have difficulty biting into the metal. With a flash light, look past the tap to see if the piston is turning in the bore. If not, spray with PB Blaster and continue to work it alternating spraying and tapping the tap while turning it with a wrench. At some point if you are failing to make headway, it may be necessary to apply heat. The ability to concentrate as much heat to the inside of the relief valve piston will reap the most reward. An Acetylene torch will work best if you are fortunate enough to have one. Mapp gas can also work but you will not be able to concentrate the flame as much. Alternating the method mentioned in the last paragraph and heating with the torch. I found for my case which was one of the more extreme I had to heat the piston to red and allow it to cool before using the pipe tap and tapping. It may take a while but several heatings and coolings will gradually help to loosen the stuck valve. Do not heat the metal so much that you are seeing the metal melt and flow. Heat it slowly to red, and let it cool. The heating of the metal will serve two purposes. First the heating and contracting of the metal affects the hardened piston and the cast block differently. The piston will expand in the bore of the cast block and spread the bore slightly. as the metal cools the casting will tend to retain it shape while the hardened metal will more/less return to its original shape. The piston will also lose its hardness or temper making it easier for the pipe tap to get a bite. I'm my case the piston lost enough temper and the pipe tap got enough bite that the piston could then turn in its bore. I the used some emery cloth to shine up what was visible of the bore. I chucked the pipe tap in a drill and began working the pipe tap/piston back and forth in bore and gradually was able to pull the piston out. I cleaned up the bore best that I could so that the new piston was able to move freely in the bore. There were no easy remedy's in my case. Persistence and elbow grease, an acetylene wrench, accompanied with a little percussive persuasion was what it took to get the job done.
    3 points
  3. You only need the clutch for starting off, waiting for a long train, and for shutting down. If you had to, you could use a cane to work the clutch. Or come up with a Rube Goldberg contraption. Or find out what is available commercially. It sounds a lot easier than putting in an automatic transmission.
    2 points
  4. I get frustrated at some of the threads that go on and on ...getting nothing accomplished. just online endless chit chat.. I go out and find the answer then get thrown to the curb. I'm the type of person who asks a couple questions... then knows where to search on my own... then quickly makde a good decision and get the task done.. efficiently. Task finished. Move on to the next. Done .Oh... and the money factor.... I will spend the money to buy any tools needed. Get something done. Not wanting to waste a month because I want to save $ 5.00. I'm not rich nor poor. I know when and when not to spend on tools. I like lotsa tools and buy good tools and have tons of them Now you should quickly buy some tappet wrenches and get those tappets adjusted!
    2 points
  5. Like I said use regular wrenches. This thread goes on too long to get a little one time job done.
    2 points
  6. Has anyone used a Scarebird brake kit with Fatman uprights. I have some questions with mine.
    1 point
  7. I see no real doom and gloom but I do see a few people pointing out facts of concern in doing the build regardless of the engine used....the mentions of the items that need addressed is actually refreshing to see as many go into this blind and have no clue...in this and the first post it was clear that the man was looking for a step by step and points of interest in doing the job.....there seems to be no pleasing anyone completely.
    1 point
  8. Seems some like to piss in other Wheaties! Stock steering clearance? Trans mount? Can he weld or have others do it? Here is a motor mount kit, trans mount kit to fit with 1" passenger offset for $300. http://www.butchscoolstuff.com/eng-trans-mounting-kits-4/ DJ
    1 point
  9. Who cares! Building a car is supposed to be fun. Take your time and enjoy the build and all of its challenges. Don't let them get you down A lot of doom and gloom here lately.
    1 point
  10. That's true, but then with the tip toe, unless low range is needed, should be able to use one leg for operation. A working parking brake to hold car while shifting to reverse or forward, and beyond that it's automatic.. No reason not to try and see if it can be driven like that Also an option to add a VW Autostick diaphram, with a vac servo. Push button clutch. swap the horn ring for use as the clutch switch, and hide a horn button
    1 point
  11. I'd be very careful about making my own clutch-operating tool. If there were ever an accident, the lawyers would zero-in on an 'unproven' design and it could cost a lot of money if the jury agrees.
    1 point
  12. Listen I am not trying to be a a**hole. I just don't understand the not chit chat thing. I really enjoy listening to other peoples thoughts and opinions on a variety of things. Yes sometimes the post goes to far but if someone wants to make make a contribution to the post so be it. I will still be going to that place to see if they have those wrenches incase someone wants them. Thank You for your contribution to this post.
    1 point
  13. I agree with that also and I would add that you put the fuel system on a similar setup as in an IV drip if you get my drift..this will rule out plugged tank, any tank filter, the fuel lines and inline filters, the fuel pump and any possibility of sucking air in between.... if your test proves the engine sound to proceed..then return to these external systems and bring them up to date.
    1 point
  14. Atta boy!!!! Really enjoy seeing your progress and your "get her done" discipline. Sets a great example for both our older and younger members. Please keep the conversation going.
    1 point
  15. Thanx Buddy back in business. I knew i had 1, but even Ole Rockwood wasnt sure what it'spurpose was....lol
    1 point
  16. Here it is, installed and filled. The tank holds 17 gallons. Even better, it doesn't leak! Went for some test rides to get the car tuned in. I'm going to mount new tires on Friday. Greg
    1 point
  17. Dave I had a guy in Sterling that does a lot of engine rebuilds do mine. Grand total for everything was a little under $1500. He charges his cost for the parts that he gets wholesale. New everything inside. Took 2 weeks. He also works on the platforms so he's home 2 weeks and then at work for 2 weeks. If you want his number let me know.
    1 point
  18. I have the PLYDO conversion on my P-15.
    1 point
  19. How do you know what size you need? You might find it best to let the machine shop source the the requirements to meet there machine work. Most shops charge a fair price but you get the correct size you need.
    1 point
  20. It will actually work better than the IGS. better advance curve.
    1 point
  21. I want Worden's dogs and Keith's car.
    1 point
  22. Unknown is my name because I was being lazy. Yes I am using fatman uprights for the stock suspension and am having a large gap between rotors and bracket. I will try and load pictures later.
    1 point
  23. I checked 3 different Mopar manuals that I have from the era. Nothing mentioned about drum max wear limit in any of them.
    1 point
  24. For peace of mind, I jacked up front end today after I got home. I have put 60 miles on the car now since I completed my brakes. I wanted to inspect cylinders for any possible leaks. With all the talk about Chinese rubber seals lately I think I may be developing a little paranoia. All good behind the front drums. All all visible connections dry throughout.
    1 point
  25. I would assume that if you use Mustang II parts, that finding Ford brake parts would be a piece of cake.... Why would a scarebird kit be sourced if you use the cheapest suspension out there? Just curious.... Most of our vehicles are IFS, not quite understanding why you would use Ford IFS over the Mopar... Why is your username Unknown? Perhaps you can try the Hamb, a lot of custom builders that mismatch parts on cars have good info on this subject. I hope this will help in some way....
    1 point
  26. When I pulled them off earlier today I just gave them a quick once-over. They did look in good shape. If they need to be turned, I can skim them at work. I'll take them into work on Monday and measure them accurately at different points all the way around. Thanks for responding. I'll let you know how they "turn" out.
    1 point
  27. Hi Jeff, welcome to the forum! I just sent you a PM. Mr. Fargo is right. All of us here can do our best to help you out.
    1 point
  28. The distributor number that you use to order parts is IAT 4011 . It was used in 1951 Plymouth cars . Here are Auto-Lite part numbers ; cap IAT - 1033 , rotor IAU- 1016A , contact set ( points ) IGW- 3028BS , condenser IAT-3076RA . I buy my NOS Auto-Lite parts on ebay for the quality .
    1 point
  29. I took the Ol' Emerald out for a Shamrock shake on this fine St. Patrick's Day. I visited a friend who I recently made in my local vintage car club. Toured his shop and property. Lots of neat stuff to see there. A good resource if needed in the future too. He's got multiple vintage cars and trucks. He has a real knack for digging up original low milage cars. Seen here is is 1975 F250 and 1964 Oldsmobile. Both are survivors. Original with exceptionally clean interiors. He's working on an old Essex 1929. Looking mighty fine too. Stopped on the way home to enjoy the sun and the view for a minute.
    1 point
  30. Yep, but theres no way you can call me a Bastard, not even with a capital B........my parents were married, I've even got a picture of me at their wedding to prove it.............lol.......going great mate..........lol...........regards, andyd
    1 point
  31. I am a born full blooded mechanic, and after seeing his garage I see why he made his own tank. Probably like me I enjoy the challah ge like he has mentioned and I always want to put my over priced tools to work. Expecially ones I don't use all the time, it's like Christmas every time I get to use a tool I haven't got my money out of yet.
    1 point
  32. A little St Patty's day work. Cab is about where it needs to be, but will go down about 3".
    1 point
  33. Thats a Beehive Oil Filter, I think they originated in the USA in the 1930's or 1940's and have been a regular addition to hotted up flathead Fords since then, they are available as a reproduction item which is what that one is, from memory I bought it thru Speedway Motors in the USA when I had the 41 Plymouth which would have been about 2008-2009 and it was about $200-250US from memory however the braided stainless steel hoses cost about $140.00 Oz from a local hydraulic hose shop so it was an expensive item but back then I had a few dollars to spend ......so I did........lol...........you maybe able to get it from any NZ hot rod shop that plays with flathead Fords... or from Speedway Motors in the USA............one good thing was that the filter came with a list of about 10 different brands of oil filter elements that fitted it which I posted a new thread of the list about 10 days ago............andyd
    1 point
  34. When I bought my radio I contact Barry Dalton who lives in Grant Pass Oregon. He rebuilds and sells automobile radios and he may have just what you might need. Here is his Email address if your interested in contacting Barry for price of a completely rebuilt radio to fit your car. Radio@RVI.NET. Jon
    1 point
  35. Thanks for the compliment and I agree that it's just as good to cut the steel head and detail the motor with nice paint and acorn nut covers on the head bolts. Carbs and exhaust. One of the best options on my wagon is the overdrive. Makes the car a true driver. I had a t5 ready to install with one of dave's vintage metal works adapter kits but once I got the car sorted out and the overdrive working I couldn't bring myself to cut that hole in the floor. I'm so glad I kept it period correct
    1 point
  36. Nothing scary about the 218. Very straight forward. Plan what you want to do. For me I drove my wagon in stock configuration for a year while finding parts. The intake/carbs was the best update. Next the split exhaust manifold and then the head. Did bore the motor .040 but that was just to clean up the bore. You'll be surprised how people react seeing one of these ugly motors dressed up. Keep us up on your build
    1 point
  37. Staying on topic (sorta), a nice enterprising chap in London, Ingerland decided to put a blown big block MoPar V8 in a mo'sickle...
    1 point
  38. Here is a real motor sicle.
    1 point
  39. I am not Ricky Ricardo,and I will NOT live with Lucy. When life gets to the point where I don't want to come home after work,changes WILL be made.
    1 point
  40. As long as the bills are paid, my wife doesn't give a rats behind what I buy or how much it costs. Greg
    1 point
  41. Don,maybe it's just my bad luck,but every woman I have ever lived with came to the conclusion that there were two types of money in the house. "Our money" and "HER money".
    1 point
  42. I got your message, thanks, thru my postings here and elsewhere I have a good 318 coming at an outstanding price. I also have a friend that has done a 318, so I have help if I need it
    1 point
  43. I also did the Pertronix conversion on my '28 Chrysler even though there wasn't a kit available for my 631 delco distributor. Very simple to do and only a keen eye would only notice that its inside the distributor. One regret, I should have done the Pertronix II module. Now I can get to 32mph down hills...:)
    1 point
  44. I machined my housing in a drill press with sand paper. Took about 15 minutes... No special tools required I also swapped the Chrysler ignition box for a GM HEI module from a late 70's engine eliminating the ballast resistor and better dwell control, smaller footprint.
    1 point
  45. The Pertronix conversion is quite simple and very effective. You replace the standard points and condenser with their module which is a magnetic trigger and has no moving parts. If you go this direction you should buy their matched coil and use resistor type leads not solid core wires. My truck is my daily driver and this conversion works flawlessly. Starting hot or cold is never an issue. Some may argue that the original equipment is just fine as it is.........but that really depends on having good quality replacement parts and I found that to be problematic. My experience with the Pertronix set up is that it is basically fit and forget. One possible negative with it is there isn't any under the hood bling associated with it. It is hidden under the stock distributor cap and there really is not any evidence things are not bone stock. Jeff
    1 point
  46. Either split your exhaust manifold or purchase a set of headers for it. Dual exhaust sounds really nice and would compliment your intake. Milling the head would wake it up a little bit as well as having a cam regrind. Pertronix upgrade is also an easy upgrade that is worth your time.
    1 point
  47. Good news, rain ended up less than forecast! Creek is flowing pretty good but no flooding danger for this round. :-)
    1 point
  48. I lived next door to someone like this felt sorry for him as he wasn't mentally all there. Who is. I explained to him I was friendly and a happy to help neighbor however if he crossed the line and upset me , my wife or family that he would be the sorry party. I then once again I explained to him I was friendly and happy to help. After that his random rants stopped and annoying call the cops for everything stopped too. Time for a stern word.
    1 point
  49. Here is how I made the fuel line clips. I marked them out on a sheet of aluminum and cut the widths first so I had all the tabs and then drilled them all before cutting them loose. Once they we're cut loose I rough cut the round end with the band saw then finished with a file. Each piece was bent to 90° in a small break. Once all the pieces were bent. I made the curved end by pressing a 5/16" bolt into a small piece of angle iron in the vice. Greg
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use