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Thanks for the compliment and I agree that it's just as good to cut the steel head and detail the motor with nice paint and acorn nut covers on the head bolts. Carbs and exhaust. One of the best options on my wagon is the overdrive. Makes the car a true driver. I had a t5 ready to install with one of dave's vintage metal works adapter kits but once I got the car sorted out and the overdrive working I couldn't bring myself to cut that hole in the floor. I'm so glad I kept it period correct

Same here, although the door springs are pretty good. I mounted 2 universal magnets (red arrows) to the corners of the box. The have got threaded pins on the rear. Tuck in, nut on it (yellow arrow), done. Diameter approx 1/4". Strong enough to keep the door closed, but not too strong which allows to open the door without much force. Got them from a DIY store.

A little St Patty's day work. Cab is about where it needs to be, but will go down about 3".

Staying on topic (sorta), a nice enterprising chap in London, Ingerland decided to put a blown big block MoPar V8 in a mo'sickle...

Here is a real motor sicle.

I'm joining Worton to document my experiences with my '52 B3B. In the next four weeks I will be taking short special Pre-BBQ jaunts to shake down unknown little items. One new associated wrinkle, I'm building an Airstream style camper for overnight stays. I salvaged a hoard of tubing from a wind destroyed shade, and a large amount of quality semi-trailer, thin aluminum top skin. So will attempt to use mostly discarded materials. With two fold-down sides for sofabeds, and a mini-kitchen across the front of the bed, it will be a nice two man, husband-wife sleeper. Details to follow. Attached is the current construction of the roof. To be continued.

I recently had the opportunity to purchase a one family owned since new 1949 dodge Meadowbrook . Car was garage since 1991, when it was driven in , parked and the owner died several weeks later . Fast forward to nine months ago when the garage fell down around the car . The family called me and told me that the property was getting ready to be up for sale and asked me if I would like to purchase the car. After a couple days of haggling I am now the proud owner of an all original 49 dodge ..... And that's where the fun begins . The car has not been started in years. The radiator was removed, presumably by some thieves . I sourced another one, but before I put it in I would like to see if the motor turns over. I do not see a typical crank nut like I'm used to seeing on the General Motors cars I'm used to working on . I'm curious as to what I should do to manually see if the engine turns over before I put a battery in. I have already remove the spark plugs and shot a little oil down the cylinders . Plug them selves look to be in decent shape . I have a decent working mechanical knowledge and a full set of tools. This is just the oldest car I've ever owned. And the first old flathead ever . Want to do the basics to make it run , then I'll figure out the "go" and "stop" parts ...

https://www.chonday.com/25830/busterstunts5/ Buster Keaton did all of his own stunts in his silent movies. Between the scenes with old cars there are instances of great stunt work.

GL-4 is spec for use with yellow metals in more modern vehicles, so it 'should' be ok. Oils spec for GL4 AND GL5 only hold the GL-4 spec for use in differentials. Read the bottle and it excludes transmissions due to the yellow metals.. My JDM Suzuki mini truck requires 75W90 GL-4 in the transmission due to bronze syncro's and that stuff was $60/ gallon since Redline is one of only a couple that still make it. GL-1 is ready available at many places, but not the places you think to look.. The Ford N series tractors spec GL1 90W, and oil for them can be found at almost any tractor shop you could think of.. TSC for one, but many others. Even some UTF's like Super 303 can carry or cross to a GL-1 spec. Search FNH 134D spec. That is available at Walmart I think. It's all about where you look. These old Mopar's and other's have more in common with tractors, than cars so that is where you look.

thanks dpollo.......this may help him out...

March 17: passenger-side leaking. Will get it fixed up right tomorrow or early in the week.

March 17: my son snapped this picture of the driver side. Can't see it here but the front shoe is very worn.

Actually its a Powerflite........but I am a pedantic Oz bastard..............lol............just don't get it confused with the GM Powerglide.........lol......regards, andyd

Thats what I intended to use, see pic......these were from I think a HK/HT/HG Holden and bolted straight onto the Offy twin carb intake.........also the 41 Plymouth Coupe I had was an older "restoration" and came with a Holden Stromberg on the 201 original engine and worked fine, see pic.................andyd

When I bought my radio I contact Barry Dalton who lives in Grant Pass Oregon. He rebuilds and sells automobile radios and he may have just what you might need. Here is his Email address if your interested in contacting Barry for price of a completely rebuilt radio to fit your car. Radio@RVI.NET. Jon

1. Not ugly. 2. Chrome don't make it go. 3. A shaved iron head will give you the same oomph for less money. 4. After saying all that I still like John's setup....lol. For me a shaved head, reground bumpstick, stainless chivvy valves, dual one bbls with dual exhaust and a o/d or 5 speed wakes these rascals up....they will never be a V8 but can still be fun.

I think 7/16 and 1/2 is right, as for a king pin reamer...do yourself a huge favour, get a machine shop to do your bushings, they can make a much nicer and tighter clearance and the costs aren't that bad, and if you do it once, very likely never do it again. A table saw in Manitoba shouldn't be any issues...Canadian tire usually puts them on for $100-150 a couple times a year, but a skill saw is much easier for cutting floor boards.

Nice motorsickle thread

Paul. That’s a good look’n cat. I see a bit of a resemblance. Maybe it’s the ear hair

Nothing scary about the 218. Very straight forward. Plan what you want to do. For me I drove my wagon in stock configuration for a year while finding parts. The intake/carbs was the best update. Next the split exhaust manifold and then the head. Did bore the motor .040 but that was just to clean up the bore. You'll be surprised how people react seeing one of these ugly motors dressed up. Keep us up on your build

Wild Bill Gelbke. He's a legend... I think Buzz Walneck had Roaddog a few years ago.. edit to add Google's great!! Found a link... http://articles.chicagotribune.com/2001-07-08/travel/0107080025_1_motorcycle-troopers-trader-publishing

My son is in his mid 40s. We've worked together, made motorcycle road trips together, scrounged around in swap meets, you name it... We went everywhere together.. He told me a few years ago that he went places with me as a little kid that he'd think twice about going to as an adult.. I'm a slightly more respectable citizen now and no longer involved in that lifestyle to that extent.. Those were good days and hopefully informative for the kid... Maybe he learned that every dog has it's day.. Hope your project goes well..

I had a working E2 Sun Tach and transmitter in my 2-1/2 tonner for years and took it out as the trucks life and need is over. I am in the process of restoring this 6 volt, 6 cylinder Sun Tach.... It was in the truck when I bought it around 1974. The light always worked too.

Hello All, Finally mounted the Instrument light on the tach. Took longer than I anticpated, but I am happy that it works. Will be good to see the tach lit up at night.

Wow. Thanks for all the kind words everyone. That means a lot to me. I am very lucky to own it. I am honored to be its caretaker. To keep it looking great and share it with anyone who’s interested. This world needs more great old Mopars on the roads.

I have no interest in what it's worth to anyone else but me and my son. Not looking to build and sell, I'm looking to enjoy the build and enjoy the drive. As for million dollar or even 6 figure muscle cars, in my opinion, that's gratuitous, stupid and meant for the likes of any ass clown with more money than they know what to do with. I see it almost daily with aviation where some nimrod who wants to impress the masses can take a mid 60's airplane and dump hundreds of thousands into it and all it proves is that they can sign a check. If we can't have fun with it then I would haul it to the nearest scrap yard and take my 50 bucks and get lit. If buying, building and selling is someones thing then I wish them all best of luck and much success. That's not my goal by any means. I plan to make memories with my son that will be carried on with his son and his son and his son... This is my opinion.

aww you caught me no they don't rub, I added a 1" spacer I made from an old brake rotors from a 2000 Mazda Protégé. cut out the centers drilled some 5/8" holes with 1" counter sink on both sides (for the "rim locks") replaced the wheel bolts (with longer ones) and prettied them up I knew that Mazda was good for something!

Yup, I'm the guy with the slightly rodded, Chevy powered Bodge who also runs a bobbed Suzuki that confuses the hell out of the Harley boys.

This topic bothers a number of people on the forum. Previous thread was locked due to that. This thread has been reported to the moderators and I've already had to delete a number of posts to it. Keep your posts on the topic. If you don't like the topic at all, then don't post. I strongly suspect we'll end up having to lock this thread too, but I am hoping for more civility going forward.

Welcome, the 914-6's are awesome beasts....as for the Duster....not sure how you going to remove the frame...(unibody) but they can be problematic with rust concerns...got a few miles logged under my belt with A-body Mopars...the 53 is a design that seems to grow on you more than snatching you in from the get-go....most important, you are lucky your dad is still around and able to help...cherish these days...

The tank unit in my 52 Fargo was hopelessly ruined. I had a nos tank unit for a 54 Plymouth so I cut the float arm from it and from my 52 Fargo. I welded the float arms together so it matched what the truck needed. My gauge now works perfectly. If fate intervenes I will eventually get another 54 Plymouth which will (of course) need a tank unit. Removal of the inner cover often knocks off the resistance cone which is well nigh impossible to repair.

Mar. 3, 2018: Pic is looking down the highway at the neighbor's property. Her barn is the only original surviving structure of the farmstead, and was built in 1891. Her grandparents built it.

Yup, they go here.