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Hello everybody what a rare find i got here ! a 1942 windsor, canadian built, but the cnadian and american chrysler are the same but i wanna be sure of this someone have details about this? here my new 42 chrysler ^^

Inspired by @Worden18 and his Meadowbrook thread , I decided that I will host a thread of my 1953 Chrysler Windsor Deluxe this season. I was thinking about why I wanted to do this. Why share my year of travels and interactions in my old Mopar on the internet? I think there are several good reasons. None really more important than any other. Arguably it could summed up as just plain cool. It feels good to know that here at P15-D24, there are many others who share my passion for the old Mopars. We have a lot in common. We have lots to share. The good folks here care about keeping these old cars running and out on the roads. And if like me, enjoy reading other's adventures. Seeing the sites in another part of the world is fun. Every photo tells a thousand words. I hope there will be lots to show and tell this coming season. I also want to give back a little to this forum. The help I found here is much appreciated. Maybe I can repay you folks a little by giving you a little entertainment. Here we go.... My car season is anxiously beginning as temps are forecasted to hit 17C (62F) over the next few days. That'll kick start the big snow melt. My Chrysler is ready to cruise now after a busy winter. We sold our home and moved in the middle of my planned winter car repair schedule. Then we went on a 10 day trip to a much warmer climate. Since I got back home and settled, I've been busting my knuckles getting everything I wanted done to the car before the April 1 deadline. That's when Vintage Car Club Parade is. I'm not sure who's more excited. My 19 yr old son or I, for the cruising season. He's almost found daily out in the garage, sitting in the car making vroom- vroom noises. "Feeling the new brakes and clutch pedal adjustments", he says. Tonight my car is jockey'd up in the garage ready to get out. Hopefully the snow on the sides of the roads get knocked back enough this weekend to keep water off the pavement. Then it's go time. Cruising 2018 is but just around the bend here.

Still haven't dialed the carbs in yet. Can't start it in the garage the fumes get thick quick.

If you look at my older posts, you’ll see that I joined up for a different reason, but I’m glad I did. Late last fall, I purchased a 1960 Dodge D200 Utiline pickup from a friend. It was running when he bought it, but a broken weld on the radiator support dropped the radiator into the fan and it has been sitting since. It’s nothing fancy, but it will make a solid transportation/work truck for me—preferable to a used Dakota, S10, or Ranger and all the associated electrical gremlins of older late-model vehicles. To get the truck back on the road, I need to troubleshoot the rear lighting (I have taillights, but no brake lights), replace the fuel tank, fix the radiator, and re-do the shift linkage. That last bit has proved to be the biggest hurdle. The column shifter on the T85 was removed by a previous owner and discarded. I have most of the missing pieces gathered up, but I’m still in need of a control rod and a shift lever before I can replace the floor shifter. I know the Power Giants are a little late for this forum, but as the last of the flatheads, I figure the folks here will appreciate them a bit more than the Sweptline folks. This one is going to remain all stock unless some deviation aids keeping it on the road. The only possible exception is if I get a wild hair someday and decide to attempt putting a Megasquirt EFI system on the 230, and perhaps an Edgy high-compression flathead. No questions currently, I just wanted to say hi. Thanks for looking!

Hi I just found this site a lot of great info. I got my truck out of a farmers field in 1978 with no windows just rusting away. I got it running and used it a little until I started to restore it to original condition in 1989. One of the only things I need is the dome light, been searching for ever. It took me 2 years to complete the restoration.

Someone should build one for the BBQ.........

I never tried to say,or implied that you did. *I* was saying it's not good enough because I love the sound of split exhausts on a inline engine. And it's not about "loud",it's about the tone. Or at least it is with me.

Sorry about the no photo thread. let's try this again

Hi found this and all I can find of the results from2014 was a class win at 89.02mph can't find any later times but I will see what I can find out Cheers Damon

sometimes there is a bit of bow in the channel guides, often caused on removing and inserting...verify with a tape that there is no taper in the guided top to bottom placing undue pressure against the glass. if this is the case, this may subside in time it will be at the expense of premature wear of the felts..

yes canadian ship to france and i find it recently, the guy who find this car in manitoba buy it after 40 years in a garage and one owner. and now he don't know what to do realy with the car cause he statr the engine, rebuild the brake and the car wont start again now, i saw the car and it's an electrical issue, cause the ignition is ok but the starter motor don't run. so the guy who sell me the car is more familiar with the american cars of the 70's..... so i buy it before someone find this chrysler.

If you spray some dry lube in these "tracks" you may be surprised by how much smoother they operate. Jeff

I would expect PDF file to be printed at somewhere like Costco, or Walmart Photo Center on a 36" printer. That will get you your paper template. From there transfer to something of substance such as FRP from Home Depot or Lowes <View Product at Home Depot> for substrate, then covered with your fabric/vinyl/leather of choice. But then, what do I know? I've never done a headliner, or any other interior panel, though I'm looking forward to giving it a go. If my $100.00 investment in supplies and my amazing skills can't do it, I can always fall back on DCM Classics Complete Kit => - It's only $520.00

I've only done breakin on mine in the garage about 2 hours worth. Can't get it to hit 165 yet.

Well Andy the results are in, you are correct, the plymouth block has the passage for internal bypass but its head is for external bypass. On the other hand the dodge block is for external bypass and its head is for internal bypass. Don't even ask, I did not get them mixed up, they are painted differently. This may explain why the Plymouth looked freshly overhauled, I will bet it leaked like a sieve. Thanks for the water pump 101 class, I have learned a lot about these engines and hope to learn much more. I got a real education restoring my 2 chevy pickups and I am now in a different classroom. Thanks so much! My plan now is to use the Plymouth block with the dodge head with internal bypass waterpump. Dave

My dad always said the roll down window was so you could pass beer to your friend in the rumble seat.

grey beard's notes on steering gear boxes additional information - Steering Gearbox Rebuild Thoroughly cleaning the gearbox, re-sealing and refilling with JD corn head grease, and setting the high point made my '48 go from a wandering handful to a fun cruiser

In my 42 years on the road I hauled heavy equipment in and out of Canada, never made it to Alaska. Still not sure I like being retired but it was nice to be home to help out around the house this winter.

ask yourself this...if the CV caused balance issues, how in the name of Sam did it ever work on the car....???????????

If you can't read the name on the side of the boat, it's "Temporary Insanity II"

My adapter being for a Ford carb looks like the one I’ve attached, it looks strange from the bottom side, but actually tapers quite nicely on the top/inside. If a single can feed three, then a double should be able to feed it better as long as it isn’t restricted which it isn’t IMO with this plate

Too late, already run a T5 and a 3:55 rear Cherokee diff.......don't come back with power steering...I have that already too! LOL

what is an air soft BB ?

The original tank and filler pipe on my woody had the same problem. Took forever to fill and it was hard to determine when it was full, or if it was just "burping". I solved the problem by inserting a section of clear plastic pipe, inside the filler pipe and extending as far as it would go. I use the plastic pipe to fill the tank, and the original, surrounding pipe acts as a vent, letting air out. Not sure what type plastic the pipe is, it is clear plastic and I bought it at home depot. I soaked the end in gasoline for a week to make sure there was no reaction to the gas. Every thing is working fine and I have had it in place for about 6 months now. I guess it is the same type plastic that I have seen used for fuel lines on some hotrods. Just make sure the pipe you get is large enough to insert the gas pump nozzle.

I put one in my 55 and it was pretty easy. The best bet it to mark where you distributor is currently set and them remove and install the components on the bench. If I remember correctly there was a rivet or something that had to be removed. It is a great upgrade and smoothed the idle out quite a bit. You will be happy with the upgrade.

Here are mine bought 3 sets on sunday. Just to be clear been looking for these. So on Saturday morning found them on Kijiji for 8 usd. Pounced on them.. had to wait as someone beat me to the punch but they were a no show so i got em..

Kevin, I know your not at the point of needing one yet but, relating to the title of this thread, a tool that I find very valuable for engine work is a vacuum gauge

My dad bought this one for working on Briggs engines sometime in the 1950,s. Works great on Flathead mopar engines.

Tanks Inc has them way cheaper than DCM. http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=349/category_id=68/mode=prod/prd349.htm I'm installing one in my '53 B4C this weekend. It''s going to require new brackets in front and rear and a longer filler neck coming out of the tank. Other than that, it fits great.

I stripped down the donor chassis yesterday and will head to the sandblaster this afternoon. It will then be squared, straightened, boxed and reinforced; particularly in the shock/shackle areas. Roll bar mounts will also be added. #MDBP2P

When I was a part of a few racing teams through my years, I did get 1 uniform, 1 hat, and two t-shirts. And even though my labor was free, and all other expenses paid, A LOT of money spent makes it happen. Spending 20-30 grand on a engine to remain competitive is not out of the ordinary... And engines are constantly dismantled, inspected, and freshened up. The faster you go, the more is spent.... But the experience is Priceless! Would do it all over again if given the opportunity! Thanks for taking interest in our beloved flatheads.

A little side bar to share while waiting for the paint to cure. While working on the Burb awhile ago, young Josh showed me a school project he had just finished. The assignment was to do a diorama about a famous person. He chose Henry Ford and constructed this tribute. I think it's just spectacular! Most of the model is built from his stash of used and left over model parts. Check the overhead conveyor made from spare model truck parts and smoke stacks made from Nurf Gun bullets. -