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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/06/2018 in all areas

  1. From spring of 47 before city dales tax enacted. Prices for used cars still high from war years.
    4 points
  2. I feel like I have seen more pictures of the prototype hemi 6 that was based on our favorite Flathead. Please post them up! I'm a fan of early curiosities. Also - didn't I recall that someone had either the original setup, or a reproduction of the setup at one point in time? Phillips Performance perhaps? It was a long time ago I remember reading that it existed, but I don't recall any pictures or other evidence other than I read it on the internet so it must be true. Jason
    3 points
  3. If you look at my older posts, you’ll see that I joined up for a different reason, but I’m glad I did. Late last fall, I purchased a 1960 Dodge D200 Utiline pickup from a friend. It was running when he bought it, but a broken weld on the radiator support dropped the radiator into the fan and it has been sitting since. It’s nothing fancy, but it will make a solid transportation/work truck for me—preferable to a used Dakota, S10, or Ranger and all the associated electrical gremlins of older late-model vehicles. To get the truck back on the road, I need to troubleshoot the rear lighting (I have taillights, but no brake lights), replace the fuel tank, fix the radiator, and re-do the shift linkage. That last bit has proved to be the biggest hurdle. The column shifter on the T85 was removed by a previous owner and discarded. I have most of the missing pieces gathered up, but I’m still in need of a control rod and a shift lever before I can replace the floor shifter. I know the Power Giants are a little late for this forum, but as the last of the flatheads, I figure the folks here will appreciate them a bit more than the Sweptline folks. This one is going to remain all stock unless some deviation aids keeping it on the road. The only possible exception is if I get a wild hair someday and decide to attempt putting a Megasquirt EFI system on the 230, and perhaps an Edgy high-compression flathead. No questions currently, I just wanted to say hi. Thanks for looking!
    3 points
  4. I know that Julie is pretty keen on these old trucks... I reckon its the other way around and she's actually bringing Brent along to the BBQ
    2 points
  5. Motel booked.... check, new tires..... check, have headlights and front turn signals (80% of the time LOL) check, working on the brake lights and rear turn signals. Extra carb, battery, dizzy.... check, check, check! I'm ready! oh yeah, JULIE!! ..... CHECK!
    2 points
  6. Couldn't think of any other way to properly clean these tubes for the oil pickup..... Necessity is the Mother of invention they say. Everything for the front is sorted out. I'll get it all installed next Saturday. Still plenty to do though....
    2 points
  7. Do you have any Ironic Auto photos? Show 'em off.
    1 point
  8. hello folks! we are currently re-installing the watertube after the inside channel(s) have been de-rusted and cleaned. just to be sure, is this the correct way of re-installing the new pipe, which slides in back and forth very easily. As you notice, only a part of the flow will pass through the tube, or do we have to reshape the tube somewhat? Thank for a well appreciated advice. grtz, Franky
    1 point
  9. with all due respect, you have two threads under this title this day, the answer has been given to you by other....read your other thread entry.....maybe you can request a moderator to combine these threads so it would be easy for you and others trying to follow along to stay on track......
    1 point
  10. On the subject of the waterpump I would add that the later internal bypass pump has an extra hole in the backing plate that lines up with the hole in the late model block that is the internal bypass. If you want to use a newer pump in an external bypass motor you need to change the backing plate to the one off of your old pump; if you don't you will have a large water leak. Marty
    1 point
  11. Its basically like a weber 38/38. Tune it like one for lean best idle... (link)....different than what you are used to with the old carters/stroms. See link. Leave the emulsion tubes and their jets alone. you don't need to mess with them unless you always at 6000+ rpm on the drag strip. Work hard to get idle and idle jetting right. DO NOT OPEN THE LOWER THROTTLE PLATES TOO FAR. your carb gets emulisified gas from the emulsion tubes through the external idle jets as such, the idle plates should never be opened more than about 1 turn of the screw from full closed..(i.e. proper setting for the lower butterflies is durn near completely almost slammed shut at idle - since it needs no air to idle, the air is in the gasoline already coming from emulsion tubes to the idle jets) 80% of your satisfaction will come from getting the idle and idle jetting right...... The older balls and stroms got raw gas from the idle port and need the air flow to run, hence their lower butterflys are a bit more open........ After which you can use an o2 sensor in the exhaust to mess with the main jets in the bowls from cruise to WOT. Get the idle right. Get the idle right. That will get the off idle right. Then work the main jets. You should be able to tune this to run on a small 4 to a very large 6 if its a good carb......at $88 who knows. before you start, check, check, check and recheck the linkage....nearly all failures are because the linkage is not positive and consistant from closed to fully open. Finally, fuel pressure 3 to 4 psi. No more. May have to go electric since even a mechanical pump that runs at that pressure may be too uneven to properly feed the carb. Fuel flow and pressure must be right and steady and most mechanical pumps are anything but steady. Use a big fuel filter, between pump and carb, the glass and plastic ones are crap. Many jets in these carbs and tight tolerances and the fuel must be clean. The adapter will be fine. Check everything for vacuum leaks......weber and weber style carbs run so well and are so adjustable that you can tune them to hide a pretty significant leak. Get it right and with a good carb and a good engine making the right vacuum signal, it'll run like fuel injection. Convert to 12v negative, add a 10SI or 12SI and an HEI Dizzy for instant start and total set it and forget it reliability. setting up a weber http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/adjust.htm setting up a ford 2100 http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/pdf_documents/motorcraft_2150_carb.pdf between the two, should get you running
    1 point
  12. looking good! thanks for documenting your whole journey in this thread, and sharing all the pictures. a fine example of what internet message boards should be like. Fred
    1 point
  13. How does one rationalize planting trees in their neighbors driveway? I'm guessing a rutted/gravel lane and not concrete/blacktop surface....lol.
    1 point
  14. The wife loves when I have a ring gear or some other car part in the oven to heat them up before install!
    1 point
  15. Got home from work this evening and hit the school of hard-knocks once again. Sucked master dry with 2 large syringes and disassembled it again. For the first time, it's together properly. Well, since a long time anyway. The previous owner had it wrong. So did I. The job gets really quick after you've dis-assembled and re-assembled it 3-4 times in as many days. Brakes feel great tonight after another test drive. Brakes are not sticking on. I can lock the wheels up on dry pavement without delay. Not bad for a 4,000 lb car. Feels great! Thanks folks. Now I need to have a look for these so called Motors manuals? Hmm..
    1 point
  16. Well the tank is under the car! We had to make new straps because the corner radiuses if the new tank are so much smaller and the tank is slightly larger than stock. Now we paint it Black and put it back. Greg
    1 point
  17. It might also be a splendid time to develop an interest in collecting and running old 'Hit and Miss' engines and machinery.
    1 point
  18. I have access to a lathe big enough to do the job at work. I have thought about giving it a try, had some ideas on how to true it and keep it true through the process. Tim's right, it would probably be better to buy them. I like doing things like that even if I don't do anything but waste a few wheels and learn from it. I do understand in this day and age I guess you could be liable if things in some way went terribly wrong, like a wheel come apart causing a wreck. I guess the same thing could happen if you did a brake job and they failed. I've got several welding certifications, if I'm good enough to weld a boiler, I'm good for a wheel I guess. But I'm speaking for myself. I was thinking the wheels on the P-15 are actually riveted to the band. I would thing a quality weld would be safer than 70 year old rivits. Speaking of trueness, I have planned on sorting through my wheels and making a jig to go in the lathe and check to see how true they are. I bet from the factory or after a hard life some are better than others. May be this way with any wheel you buy.
    1 point
  19. Brent, so pleased you are bring Julie. Thought there for a minute I would nave to make a quick trip to get her! LOL
    1 point
  20. These are the frame dimensions for 1936 Plymouths, if it is any help...
    1 point
  21. The original tank and filler pipe on my woody had the same problem. Took forever to fill and it was hard to determine when it was full, or if it was just "burping". I solved the problem by inserting a section of clear plastic pipe, inside the filler pipe and extending as far as it would go. I use the plastic pipe to fill the tank, and the original, surrounding pipe acts as a vent, letting air out. Not sure what type plastic the pipe is, it is clear plastic and I bought it at home depot. I soaked the end in gasoline for a week to make sure there was no reaction to the gas. Every thing is working fine and I have had it in place for about 6 months now. I guess it is the same type plastic that I have seen used for fuel lines on some hotrods. Just make sure the pipe you get is large enough to insert the gas pump nozzle.
    1 point
  22. I wrote that article first for the WPC News back about 1980. then it was later published by the Plymouth Owners Club. The publication mentioned in the quote picked it up and did a poor job of editing it, something I am still annoyed about. If you have any questions, ask me directly, I will be pleased to help. dp
    1 point
  23. pre mold is ready... now drying and lots of sanding to do... grtz
    1 point
  24. ...more than I can "handle". Haha, I just got it!
    1 point
  25. Success...Well some anyway. Baby steps on the journey to making my Chrysler dependable, just as Walter P would have wanted. My limited road test went very well. Brakes seem to be working quite good. I can't be sure they are set up as best as they could be without the $500 special brake tool. They feel quite good. I need to get the car out on the open road and see if there is any pulling to left or right. No pulling detected so far while test driving around the neighbourhood. Alignment is next. I am sure the toe in needs a reset with new radials, as well as after removing those spacer washers. Doing my first vintage Chrysler brake job was a rewarding experience. More work than I originally thought, but not too bad. Originally, thinking about pulling the master cylinder was a little intimidating I must admit. I learned that it is not really a difficult job. It can come out pretty quick too. If you are thinking about rebuilding your MC, give it a shot. It's not hard. I think the hardest part is getting the floor pan back in. That's not difficult either really. You can see I live up in the hills. Everywhere I go, I go down to that valley bottom you see in the distance. Very good brakes are quite important. No more brakes sticking on! Last season, that was annoying. This snow has 27 days to melt before the Vintage Car Club Easter Parade on April 1. Thanks to those who offer tips and help along the way. - Great forum here.
    1 point
  26. Here is a link to an article about Dennis Bickford and his manufacturing of repro mats. http://www.oldcarsweekly.com/restoration/restoration-tips/do-it-yourself-restoration-reproducing-parts
    1 point
  27. The crank bolt is too short to start the gear on the crank as you have seen...you can hammer the pulley/hub on but that's tough on the rear thrust bearing I made mine years ago out of a factory crank bolt (I cut the head off) and a 3/4"grade 8 bolt welded to the modified crank bolt.
    1 point
  28. Hi...There are always 3 considerations with our old cars.Steer, stop, run. If we want to drive our cars, and l find most of the forum posts here are directed at drivers rather than other preferences, driving safely in today's traffic and speeds is probably going to dictate some departure from original equipment. Having stated the obvious, allow me to share...l bought my 1940 D14 with all original drivetrain, steering and brakes.My plan, like yours, was to build a driver. My first move was to restore the brake system, on inspection there were no wheel cylinders on the rear, the worn out shoes were in a box in the trunk along with some of the hardware. The fronts were all there but were going to need complete restoration... While researching replacement parts l contacted Charlie at Rusty Hope and ended up purchasing his front disc brake kit...also, thanks to this forum, installed a ford ranger rear end which made the rear brake problem go away. The original master cylinder needed replaced so l fabbed a bracket and used a dual chamber master. The cost of the conversion was fairly close to the cost of restoration. The car stops perfectly with normal pedal pressure. Yes l agree, four wheel drum brakes in good condition with the original master cylinder will stop the car just fine. However, sacrificing some originality for the sake of safety seems like a good move to me..
    1 point
  29. I gotta say. I am totally confident you can do the swap. At the age of 14 I removed the entire drivetrain out of a 1952 oldsmobile and put it in the chopped and channeled 1934 ford rolling chassis my Dad bought me. If you go old school with no electronics, you are home free. I designed all the mounts and the local blacksmith did all the welding and built me a set of megaphone headers to boot.
    1 point
  30. Well, I only got a couple hours in the garage last night but progress was made. In an attempt to remove some of the twisting on the tank I strapped it to the bench before the welding begun. I just got the spot welds in the flange complete. Slow but steady, Greg
    1 point
  31. Yep, new tanks are a couple hundred dollars. I made this because I wanted to. I like the challenge. Keeps the mind active when doing things like this and I always learn something. Greg
    1 point
  32. After some wrestling, we got the tank wrapped! In hindsight, I would have made two halves of the tank shell. I think it would have suffered less distortion in the panel from bead rolling. Over all I am about 75% satisfied with the way it turned out, the ends are slightly twisted, maybe off by a 1/16". But it will be a great gas tank! I'm happy it worked out and I learned quite alot during the process. Now it's time to weld it up! Greg
    1 point
  33. We have started making the gas tank. The two end panels and a center baffle are complete. We will hopefully get the steel wrapped around to make the body of the tank on Sunday. I know it's not a stock tank and that I can buy one for a few hundred dollars, but I have never made a gas tank before and wanted to give it a go. All the tank parts start with a paper pattern. Then go to the bead roller. We rolled a 1/2" bead cross to the corners then used a tipping die to bring the edges to 90°. Finally the hard part is tuck shrinking the corner radius. We rolled a bead in a piece of 2 1/4" exhaust tube for the filler hose connection and welded that to the tank panel. The next part is the outer skin of the tank. Then the outlet tube and level sender holes. And finally a tank liner from KBS coatings. I haven't engineered the pickup tube yet and haven't fully decided how to weld the panels together. I think I'll use a few plug welds around the flange and the Tig the edges of the flanges together. I'll have to figure out the pickup tube before final assembly, I think. Suggestions are welcome. To be continued... Greg
    1 point
  34. The only cow in a small Iowa town stopped giving milk. The people did some research and found that they could buy a cow just across the state line in Wisconsin for $200. They bought the cow from Wisconsin and the cow was wonderful. It produced lots of milk all of the time, and the people were pleased and very happy. They decided to acquire a bull to mate with the cow to produce more cows like it. They would never have to worry about their milk supply again. They bought the bull and put it in the pasture with their beloved cow. However, whenever the bull came close to the cow, the cow would move away. No matter what approach the bull tried, the cow would move away from the bull and he could not succeed in his quest. The people were very upset and decided to ask the Vet, who was very wise, what to do. They told the Vet what was happening. “Whenever the bull approaches our cow, she moves away. If he approaches from the back, she moves forward. When he approaches her from the front, she backs off. An approach from the side, she walks away to the other side.” The Vet thought about this for a minute and asked, “Did you by chance, buy this cow in Wisconsin?” The people were dumbfounded, since no one had ever mentioned where they bought the cow. “You are truly a wise Vet,” they said. “How did you know we got the cow in Wisconsin?” The Vet replied with a distant look in his eye, “My wife is from Wisconsin.” Sorry, just couldn't help myself. LOL
    1 point
  35. An alternative to getting custom filled spray cans is buying a quart of the color you want from an auto paint store and using a refillable "Preval" sprayer. If you aren't familiar with it, the Preval consists of a glass jar that takes 12 oz of reduced paint with a replaceable container of propellant that screws on the top and sprays like a spray can. I get mine from the local Ace Hardware, and the full jar+propellant unit goes for $6.95, and replacement propellant cartridge goes for $5.95 (each cartridge will spray at least 16 oz of thinned paint). I use these a lot for small jobs when I don't feel like cleaning a spray gun afterward. I painted my P12 rims with a $5 quart of Ace International Red off their close-out shelf, and the rims on my '09 Challenger with a quart of Nason Tor-Red enamel with a hardener, so you can spend as little or as much on the paint as you like without needing a compressor or having extra reduced paint with a short pot-life.
    1 point
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