Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/04/2018 in all areas

  1. Why bother with modifying the crank? These 25" engines when taken care of have no oiling problems or bearing issues. I've been driving and working on them a long time. Pistons of high mileage or replacement cheap quality are a problem as are cheap replacement bearings.
    1 point
  2. I've pulled the oil pan and the Pistons. Every top ring is broken and #5 piston land is broken, which scored the cylinder wall pretty good. After a lot of measurements a .040 over piston should work.
    1 point
  3. Actually this is better than getting an engine block which has been bored to the max and a crank ground to 030 . You have room to make it right. Besides taking up clearance, Knurling on pistons helped hold oil on the skirts. There were also piston expanders of several designs which wedged in between the pin bosses and the inner non thrust skirt. Another good fix was Hastings' GL spacer used to put the top groove back in shape. The steel spacer is tougher than the aluminum piston and would extend ring life even in bores with more taper than they should have.
    1 point
  4. I put one in my 55 and it was pretty easy. The best bet it to mark where you distributor is currently set and them remove and install the components on the bench. If I remember correctly there was a rivet or something that had to be removed. It is a great upgrade and smoothed the idle out quite a bit. You will be happy with the upgrade.
    1 point
  5. Some progress yesterday. Still waiting to get the head back from the welder's, but had time to get the pistons inatalled and rod caps torqued up, and was also able to get started sorting the front plate parts, gaskets, timing chain bits etc....
    1 point
  6. http://forums.aaca.org/topic/289095-ammco-brake-gauge-1750/
    1 point
  7. I do believe that 4 door cars have done more to increase the population than 2 door cars have.
    1 point
  8. so far as I can gather from your posts, you have an engine which has knurled pistons with oversize pins, cam bearing oil restrictors and if you look further you might find undersize crankshaft bearings of .001 or 002. If you look at the rings, one or both oil rings will be steel and the second compression ring will have an expander behind it. All very legitimate tricks dating back to the 40s with the hopes of getting another 20 000 miles out of a worn out block. It took real talent to achieve these results and while it does not reflect best practice it often worked out just fine.
    1 point
  9. Still having issues resizing pics on my phone but here is a start. So I found this car near Lake Ontario the asking price was $650 obo, I offered $500 and left with a title to it. Had it towed home and running in 30 minutes.
    1 point
  10. The dice need to disappear. There are better fuzzy hangers available.
    1 point
  11. The bench seat and floor shifter was no problem...
    1 point
  12. It's black again! It went pretty good. No runs or sags, and minimal to no orange peel, BUT (there's always a but lol) I had some moisture problems with the air compressor. I ended up with quite a few spots on the final coat that I'm not too happy about. I'm hoping I'll be able to wet sand and buff them out, but we'll see. I am definitely happy with the body work though!
    1 point
  13. Engine still won't turn. Guess I'll let it soak more. I did get interior cleaned a little & opened vent & windshield. What is that little chrome circle above speedo? It's some kind of electrical switch.
    1 point
  14. I have installed mustang II Kit's... My opinion, rebuild what you have. You are going to spend money on something that you will notice no difference by the seat of your pants. Use the money elsewhere in the car. Not trying to stir the pot here, just my 2¢... I personally like Volare front clips if a custom job just has to happen. There are suspension parts from police cars that can be used with 11" disc brakes... The 11" disc brakes are OEM, and you can get parts(rotors, seals, bearings, bushings, ball joints, and pads) from your local parts place if needed.
    1 point
  15. On ‎8‎/‎21‎/‎2017 at 1:19 PM, 52b3b Joe said: I am still continuing to find some more darn mouse homes! I think the car served as an apartment complex for the mice! you got a rat rod and didn't even know it....
    1 point
  16. I have never had that much difficulty removing a water pump. I see yours is mounted using studs and not bolts. That may be why you are having so much trouble. Suggest you double nut the studs and see if you can screw them out.
    1 point
  17. thank you both for the info, it was the selector rod that needed adjustment. i made the adjustment, cleaned and lubed the parts and were all good she's shifting good. again thank you
    1 point
  18. They are supposed to smell like that.
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use