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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/23/2018 in all areas

  1. I once had an explosion in my distributor because the motor had been started and stopped several times in less than an hour. It seems enough gas fumes had leaked through the ruptured diaphragm to fill the dizzy and when I went to start it again, it blew the cap off. Scared the crap out of me. It took a while to figure out how it happened. Then it seemed pretty cool.
    2 points
  2. The pickup is a 1974 Dodge W350. Dually automatic transmission 360 V8 with a 4 10 rear end. The pickup started out as a government vehicle in the Bessey National Forrest (the largest man made forrest in the United States) at Halsey NE, thus the green color. From there it was purchased by an eccentric large 300 pound cowboy, known for riding horses fast and putting them up wet. He maintained his vehicles the same way. Some of the pickup's duties included chasing coyotes across the Nebraska sandhills and as a pusher vehicle at the local demolition derby. It was sold on his Dad's estate sale to a farmer neighbor Clifford Sterner. It was Clifford's first pickup with a bale unroller flatbed. He is now on his third. I purchased it 11/22/2005 for $3500. I planned on using it to feed cattle and to use the hydraulics to make a power soil sampler. I moved on to a different soil sampling system but kept the pickup around as a spare way to feed cattle when tractor is out of commission.
    2 points
  3. I'll start this off at $100. It can be the first step in the cab over project!
    2 points
  4. caught an estate sale this morning...found this very nice Brown and Sharpe pin punch set...nice addition to the tool box.
    1 point
  5. Nice job, you are a better welder than I am! Although that may be a rather low bar... :-)
    1 point
  6. I have driven 50 Plymouths for over 50 years and only once had an issue with brake fade . Since I liked to drive fast I solved that one by installing eleven inch brakes from a Desoto on all 4 corners. My present 50 and 51 have the original 10 x 2s and are doing just fine. The 51 has over 50 000 miles since relining and the linings are at about 50%. Lots of highway miles but lots of mountains too. I travelled the grades on the Highway to the Sun in Glacier Park. No problems. Some modern linings are too hard or do not have the same co efficient of friction as the original linings. I do not drive these cars like I might drive a sports car and I see no reason to change anything. I am working on a 52 convertible now and may use 11 by 2s on it. These can be found on early 50s Desotos and Chrysler Royals . They were part of Plymouth's police and taxi packages too. The reason I have not mentioned Dodge is the USA models had different drums and wheel offsets . OK if you get the whole package.
    1 point
  7. Hi...There are always 3 considerations with our old cars.Steer, stop, run. If we want to drive our cars, and l find most of the forum posts here are directed at drivers rather than other preferences, driving safely in today's traffic and speeds is probably going to dictate some departure from original equipment. Having stated the obvious, allow me to share...l bought my 1940 D14 with all original drivetrain, steering and brakes.My plan, like yours, was to build a driver. My first move was to restore the brake system, on inspection there were no wheel cylinders on the rear, the worn out shoes were in a box in the trunk along with some of the hardware. The fronts were all there but were going to need complete restoration... While researching replacement parts l contacted Charlie at Rusty Hope and ended up purchasing his front disc brake kit...also, thanks to this forum, installed a ford ranger rear end which made the rear brake problem go away. The original master cylinder needed replaced so l fabbed a bracket and used a dual chamber master. The cost of the conversion was fairly close to the cost of restoration. The car stops perfectly with normal pedal pressure. Yes l agree, four wheel drum brakes in good condition with the original master cylinder will stop the car just fine. However, sacrificing some originality for the sake of safety seems like a good move to me..
    1 point
  8. I used the Rusty Hope Kit, a search here will find all the information you need. The kit works fantastic and the instructions were good. The hardest part was tapping the spindles, but it wasn't that hard at all as they are pretty soft metal. There was something I didn't like about the Scarebird kit that made me choose Rusty Hope but I can't remember what it was. BTW, when I had an installation question, I emailed him and he responded within hours... top notch! I am using my original M/C and it works good. I removed the internal residual pressure valve and installed a 2lb front and 10lb rear residual pressure valves in line. I'll bet the Scarebird kit would work the same if you go that route. I have since purchased a dual M/C but it's not high on my list to install at this point because the Dodge stops so well as it is. Adam
    1 point
  9. I don't think I'd ruin them removing those sill mats. They are hard to find for 2 door cars. Maybe using an awl in the vee of the screw head ....then with a hammer tapping the screw kinda sideways in all directions... that might loosen the screws enough to break the bond so you can get them out. That way at least you can re-use them till another set is found.... That's how I can remove screws like that at times.
    1 point
  10. With the above link I was attempting to teach JVL to fish rather than just handing him a fish.
    1 point
  11. In my 30 plus years as an electrician I saw a lot of this happen to a lot of guys due to the nature of the work. Many opted for the wrist surgery and had the problem successfully corrected, others wore wrist braces to get thru the workday. As for myself I always followed the advice given by Norm Abrams of This Old House which was basically to never use a hand tool when a power tool was available to do the job. It was good advice and I bought my first cordless screwdriver and cordless drill back in the early 80`s and always used them whenever possible, it sure saved me from a lot of "wear and tear" on my wrists. I have also carried that over to my car hobby, I use cordless impact guns in both 3/8 and 1/2 whenever possible. I might have to break loose a bolt with a socket wrench or breaker bar but I will finish it`s removal with a cordless gun. Same for putting back in, tighten with a gun and finish with a torque wrench.
    1 point
  12. if swapping out to a later model engine, the proper identification could eventually help someone with locating the proper year engine for their project should he advertise it for sale. could be just curiosity killing the cat and/or burning bandwidth....only the Shadow knows for sure...
    1 point
  13. OK thanks. I appreciate the response. I would have been bidding otherwise. Hope you get some bids. It's sure for a good cause.
    1 point
  14. Rich, The vacuum advance operates with vacuum, not pressure but the absence of pressure. Every time the engine is turned off the the vacuum is lost and atmospheric pressure replaces it. The atmospheric pressure comes from base of the carburetor and contains gasoline fumes. Over time these fumes will attack the rubber diaphragm inside the vacuum advance unit. Next time you remove your distributor take a whiff of the vacuum line connection on the advance unit and tell me what it smells like.
    1 point
  15. Those screws are not stock... sorry to say
    1 point
  16. A humble approach with plenty of questions here might well get you well through the engine assembly. It would certainly make for an interesting thread. There’s plenty of helpful folks here with lots of experience. Am I wrong?
    1 point
  17. I bet it's made of HPDE, which is a type of thermoplastic and will bend and shape as well as any. If you make it thinner by heating it up, you can buy/ order some P-Tex which is actually base repair sticks for skis and snowboards but is just Polyethelene sticks. The P tex can be burned/ melted and then using a razor blade/ sanding get it smooth again
    1 point
  18. That's a nice looking tank but you have many feet of welding to do with no pinholes to have a leak free tank. I've welded up a few oil pans when I needed to modify them for clearance and always find it a challenge to get them leak free. Have you considered brazing the seams once it is all spot welded together? The brass will flow into the seam and should give good fill and sealing, also the lower temperature will reduce the risk of a burn through. Or you are a much better welder than I am... :-)
    1 point
  19. Good colors. (even though I'm more of a Farmall fan ) There's probably a reason that nobody makes purple tractors, Mark. LOL!!
    1 point
  20. Not kidding. Get it!! They are great and unusual cars with only 345 made in 1951 and I am the lucky owner of one! The car is actually much further along than the second picture shows. All body parts are now on and all wiring completed. Basically just the interior left. Just showed the driver's side as the green fender made me choose the colour I did. I remember as a kid that a lot of these cars were the green shown. Colour is slightly different to what shows as the car is under fluorescent lights. Keep your Chrysler as well. These kind of deals do not come often and if the car checks out well, you can always find room or rent a space somewhere. You only live once!! Carpe Diem!! I did manage to sneak another picture in to show where the car is presently at in its restoration.
    1 point
  21. I hate neighbor issues, a good relationship with your neighbors is priceless. I'm blessed where I am now but I don't own the surrounding properties so it could change. You could handle it a hundred different ways. If you choose to make it a pisssin' contest you have to be prepared to piss the farthest at all costs. Some people have a lot of time to devote to the aggravation of others. I would figure out the codes enforcement, either get in spec or know the loopholes well. Ask others that have been through it in your area. Where I live there is a big difference when you live in the county and when you live in the city. You get by with a whole lot in the county. I know a guy that had several cars and codes enforcement cracked on him. The loophole he found was if they were current in registration and insurance they couldn't bother him. So he got antique tags on his parts cars, which is a one time permanent tag ( costs the same as a reg tag). He also got collector policy on them which was cheap ( limited mileage lol) . When in spec they couldn't bother him, said he would let the insurance policy lapse but if they asked again he would re-up it, the tags were forever. You might get to cover your vehicles under a farm policy. I would meet with the other neighbors and get all working together on this. He might decide he doesn't like the neighborhood as much as he thought. Stay within the law and use it to your advantage let him make the mistakes. Tree's, privacy fence, chain link fence may help. Make sure the fence is on your side of the line though. Might want to talk to a lawyer. Good luck with it.
    1 point
  22. I have installed mustang II Kit's... My opinion, rebuild what you have. You are going to spend money on something that you will notice no difference by the seat of your pants. Use the money elsewhere in the car. Not trying to stir the pot here, just my 2¢... I personally like Volare front clips if a custom job just has to happen. There are suspension parts from police cars that can be used with 11" disc brakes... The 11" disc brakes are OEM, and you can get parts(rotors, seals, bearings, bushings, ball joints, and pads) from your local parts place if needed.
    1 point
  23. regardless of mileage.....after all these years the environment will take as much if not more of a toll.....daily use will actually benefit the car to some degree verse sitting around untouched....
    1 point
  24. Back when I was in college, I am pretty sure my truck ran on beer...
    1 point
  25. I am using this wire wrap. Believe I bought it from McMaster Carr.
    1 point
  26. Suggest you go to the reference section of this webpage and read everything there. Before you shave the head you best measure your valve to head clearance.
    1 point
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