Leaderboard

ok boys....feast your eyes....

Not kidding. Get it!! They are great and unusual cars with only 345 made in 1951 and I am the lucky owner of one! The car is actually much further along than the second picture shows. All body parts are now on and all wiring completed. Basically just the interior left. Just showed the driver's side as the green fender made me choose the colour I did. I remember as a kid that a lot of these cars were the green shown. Colour is slightly different to what shows as the car is under fluorescent lights. Keep your Chrysler as well. These kind of deals do not come often and if the car checks out well, you can always find room or rent a space somewhere. You only live once!! Carpe Diem!! I did manage to sneak another picture in to show where the car is presently at in its restoration.

I’ve started the process of rebuilding the engine in my 1947 Dodge. I would like to use this thread to ask questions along the way when I can’t find the answer using the the search function. The reason for rebuilding this engine is that it had low compression and also the possibility of a cracked block or head. When I bought the car.a year ago the PO mentioned it might have a cracked block (probably why he sold it so cheap). I brought it home pulled the head gasket and found the cylinders full of coolant. Thought maybe just a bad gasket.Cleaned out the coolant. Drained the pan. Replaced gasket. Drove it for a couple of months. Still had low compression. Would still blow gray smoke sometimes on accelerating. I have dreams of making this car into a reliable, long distance driving car. To rebuild the engine seems to be an inevitability. What the hell. I’m doin it!

Yep, new tanks are a couple hundred dollars. I made this because I wanted to. I like the challenge. Keeps the mind active when doing things like this and I always learn something. Greg

Water distribution tube came out smoothly. Looks decent but will replace with new. Block was seriously gunked up

Further to Frank Elder's solution - To quote Mike Tyson, "Everybody has a plan until they get punched in the face"

Hello guys - I’ve got my truck running driving, in a coat of paint, seat redone, and lights working -- LARGELY due to the help of many of you (THANK YOU!). I still need to find a couple 1/2 ton wheels, hubcaps, and a few other odds and ends - But the last big hurdle is that it needs a bed to finish off the body... I have a low side bed, in pretty rusty shape but salvageable. The tailgate looks like it was well used or maybe dragged down the road and jumped on. But hey they are trucks made for working right? I will probably pound out some of the dents and try and make it less like a potato chip but after a bit of hammering, I’m going to paint it and call it done. We'll call it character. I have found some great insight on the forum for what some of you guys have done putting yours together. Pictures of yours always welcome, as are any additional advice or pitfalls noted. Questions. 1) What are the holes on the letters of my tailgate for? Were these factory? Seems there could have been some trim piece poked in there but I like just the embossed DODGE (there was a thread where some had painted and one member was considering making a vinyl sticker to make the embossed sections stand out (that's cool) . I’m thinking of plugging the holes unless someone knows of a good reason not to. 2) My bed sides have a ton of holes drilled in between the cab and fender, I assume there was a spare tire carrier or some other item hanging there, unless someone knows of holes other than the fenders that I need I'm going to weld all of them shut for good. 3) Where can I get new bed chains? Mine are pretty rusty and I’d like a cleaned up set, maybe even stainless if not to pricey. 4) What’s the general thought on assembly of the bed.-once I get the rot cut/ground out and patches welded in should I paint and then assemble OR assemble the threes sides and then paint so the fasteners are nicely painted not marred up by wrench? 5) I’m thinking of doing the stainless bed strips, I will probably try and weld the angle strips to the bed sides with stainless wire because I'm not a fan of the angles bolted on. Thoughts on that? Other pointers on the bed welcome. I've got a fair amount of metal work ahead of me... but I kinda like it ;-) Thanks , Jay

Good luck with that!! Tank looks great by-the-way.

Me and my truck can't watch this anymore

this is why at our age they say that high cholesterol is such a problem for us...

.0015-.002 dpollo just made a typo.....he definitely knew the specs

I spent the next couple weeks slowely disassembling, bagging and tagging.

So I pulled the engine over Christmas holiday. Not so easy by myself and on a hill

Robert, Your car is a beauty!

Beautiful professional job! Love the nice hood medallion detail... looks new? Is it plastic (AKA 1952) ?

Very good tip! I learned that somewhat the hard way on my truck when I painted it. I've been using a couple different soft blocks like those for all the curvy panels on the car like the roof and trunk. They weren't special enough to make it in the pictures though lol. I have two different thickness of them, one being stiffer. Between the two of them one normally works. In a few spots I just folded a long piece of sand paper to create some thickness to prevent pressure points to sand with. The only things I have been able to use the long blocks on has been the doors, and front fenders (and hood when I get there) lol.

I am thinking of flying in late Wednesday, and staying at the Jackson casino. I could be your bitch Thursday and Friday. I can drive anything from a shovel to an excavator just tell me what you want done. Todd B

Hey! I play the trombone! (come to think of it, my neighbor has been giving me the skunk eye.....)

Looks excellent!! I've been blocking my '66 Satellite (like, forever!!) and it will get shot this spring. I see you are using a fairly rigid flat sanding block - while a bit softer than the old rubber blocks, it's easy to sand flat spots into the primer/filler on high crown panels, like your front fenders. If I may make a suggestion (I know how excited we get the closer it gets to painting time!), get a soft block and make your final sanding pass with that. Being very flexible, it will put a curve back in the panel and will knock off any facets the hard block left. Remember the old rodder's saying: "If it's perfect, paint it black!" Have fun!

Yeah, JE forged. Will likely pop a turbo on it too and will be really happy to start around 7.3:1 static compression.

Getting closer! The main body is blocked and nearly ready for paint. We spent all day Saturday out there in the dust bowl. Still have the hood and one rear fender to block, then a major garage cleaning before masking and painting. The car blocked out very nice. I won't say it is 100% flawless, but its the nicest job I've done so far.

Just don't fill it first!!

I think this kind of code enforcement is different from building code enforcement . it is for compliance of property limitations and restrictions..... sadly, I have been on the other end of the complaining with our neighbors next door.... in 2009/2010 we ended up resolving the problem ourselves..... (note 236 tires thru out the property)

"California Dreaming"...

Clean up has begun in earnest......all my projects have been set aside and are patiently waiting to be looked over at the BBQ. Friends are making plans to stop by and help move things around and set up for the big set up! If you need directions, happy to help. If you have a "in-progress" truck, by all means bring it! If you have questions about parts, history, or direction of your build,.....bring those too. If you like good company. its gonna be here. If you like getting up close to a whole bunch of Dodge Pilot House Era trucks, a bunch of other year Dodge trucks, and a 1939 Green Plymouth truck....this is your chance! If you like to meet people from the forum, adventurers from the frozen north, Wrenchheads from the Big Valley, and the best kind of people that come from the North Western region of this here Continent, then come on by! WE have Trucks, Cars, Hot Rods and Burgers!

I lived next door to someone like this felt sorry for him as he wasn't mentally all there. Who is. I explained to him I was friendly and a happy to help neighbor however if he crossed the line and upset me , my wife or family that he would be the sorry party. I then once again I explained to him I was friendly and happy to help. After that his random rants stopped and annoying call the cops for everything stopped too. Time for a stern word.

Back in the late '60s?early '70s, a trick with Slants was to put in a Truck cam, degree it 4 or 6deg up, get a Marine head, thin copper head gasket and the usual Clifford intake and Header. Super simple and Worked! A couple of friends back then had what were named 'Deputies' ! 225, 3 spd Challengers, both of them Red. I wish I had them both now! They hopped up one of them and lined up against the untouched one, which for some reason had been faster out the back door. Beat him by nearly two and a half cars! Needless to say, as soon as he saved up for the parts, they did his too! Memories from the Dusty corners of my mind!

Yes ...Germany She is my car ... it is my song... my video Dirt Track race neer Finsterwalde Germany Abozt the car .... only 386 ever builded With a RHD .... this one was from 1951 to 2001 in Rhodesia ....later Zimbabwe ...

We have started making the gas tank. The two end panels and a center baffle are complete. We will hopefully get the steel wrapped around to make the body of the tank on Sunday. I know it's not a stock tank and that I can buy one for a few hundred dollars, but I have never made a gas tank before and wanted to give it a go. All the tank parts start with a paper pattern. Then go to the bead roller. We rolled a 1/2" bead cross to the corners then used a tipping die to bring the edges to 90°. Finally the hard part is tuck shrinking the corner radius. We rolled a bead in a piece of 2 1/4" exhaust tube for the filler hose connection and welded that to the tank panel. The next part is the outer skin of the tank. Then the outlet tube and level sender holes. And finally a tank liner from KBS coatings. I haven't engineered the pickup tube yet and haven't fully decided how to weld the panels together. I think I'll use a few plug welds around the flange and the Tig the edges of the flanges together. I'll have to figure out the pickup tube before final assembly, I think. Suggestions are welcome. To be continued... Greg

My daughter took the photo. Forget it KnuckleH..... Her sister is the total opposite.........lazy with a capital L

Yup, J-Lo's 230 head.

Is there a way to mount it directly to the trans and eliminate the short driveshaft?

Looking through the search, I saw a few people asking but nothing as a finished project. One person suggested getting one from a D100 which also had a solid axle. I cannot find the post, but remember seeing something about using a Ranger front bar and fabbing up some brackets. I would like to see something that works too to eliminate some body roll when cornering.

Howdy Folks - As some may know my father Eddy Kingsbury and George Asche along with myself and a buddy developed a triple carb intake for the Canadian 25 1/2" big block flatheads. We used the 50's triple that Eddy Edmunds produced and dramatically improved the flow of the intake as well as made a number of changes to the design. We did so not so much for commerical purposes but for use on our rear engine dragster and a couple of personal projects. I put the setup on my 1949 plymouth business coupe (sporting a modified 265 ci motor) and am currently getting ready to put it on a 1956 Fargo pickup. If you want to see it in action on my car or the dragster I have uploaded a view video's on youtube https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC8y7yB5J7YNWI2Rnnvn8rig But the reason for my post is to gauge if there is interest in making a dual carb setup that could be used on not only cars, but trucks and older cars. The big difference as I am sure you guys know is the tabs on the outside of the intake for mounting linkage. That is something the edmunds, offy or other intakes dont have. It would be for the USA small block engines. We bascially already have all the research and testing done when we created our triple for the big block. We have had a number of car guys who are unhappy with the performance of the offy's (lots of rev but looses torque over stock) and who are seeing huge prices for vintage edmunds intakes ask us to consider making a dual carb setup. We also know with lots of our triples out there to confirm our triple is outperforming the super rare edmunds triple, so we are confident a dual carb setup would outperform any similar intake ever produced. Our big advantage is not only is there better flow testing instrumentation available today, but foam core casting just allows for a product that could not have been made in the 40's-60's when all of the dual carb intakes were designed. Right now it is looking like an AoK dual carb intake, machined, with the truck linkage tab(s) drilled and tapped are likely going to retail for $400-$425 Is there any interest from the flathead truck world ? Thanks for your time and any input is appreciated Tim Kingbury and George Asche