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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/06/2018 in all areas

  1. Why would you want to replace one of the better independent front suspensions ever designed and manufactured for something worse ? Better sway bars, possibly better shock absorbers and perhaps an equal length tie rod system is all anyone would need. All I have ever needed in over 50 years of driving these cars is that all components are in good shape and the alignment is on specs. These cars are Chrysler's products and for their time were superior. They are still good today.
    2 points
  2. In San Marcos, TX. This is the beer joint and live music venue where George Strait got his start (and I killed many brain cells...). Back in the 70's, lots of good "cosmic cowboy-progressive country-Texana-Americana" musicians have played there, as well as a mix of other musical genre. We used to see Strait for $0.50 when he started and $5 when he hit it big. Got to see Townes Van Zandt, Jimmy Dale Gilmore, Rusty Weir, Alvin Crow, Jerry Jeff Walker and others up close - never paid more than $2 to $5. Pitcher of Pearl (Texas beer) was $1 from noon till 6 - best way to get over the stress from math and chemistry exams.
    1 point
  3. I'm not advocating either path but I have both. My 47 has a GM front clip and my 49 has a factory IFS. Here are a few of the PROS to adding a modern suspension: 1. Going from king pins to ball joints ++++++ 2. Power steering if you want without the kludge of a Cavalier R&P 3. Better Geometry for highway use (ability to have more caster and split, anti dive characteristics......) 4. Getting the steering box out of the engine compartment (engine swaps) 5. You can set your vehicle ride height to exactly where you want it with the control arms riding in the stock position 6. Correct wheel position (centered in fender) Not all vehicles have this issue CONS of a clip, PROS for keeping stock setup: 1. If you don't know what you are doing you will ruin your frame. This is not for the novice or faint of heart. I've seen some SCARY clip jobs... 2. Don't underestimate the amount of fabrication involved. Clips could end a lot of projects prematurely. Don't believe the hot rod shows on TV that make this stuff look easy, it isn't. 3. The stock front suspension is pretty darn good, especially after adding disc brakes and shock mount mod. 4. You can add power steering (a lot of sacrifices doing so). I am biased here cause I hate R&P steering. These aren't sports cars 5. Some locations that do annual vehicle inspections will balk at these type of modifications. 6. Track width of some clips is too wide. I had to install Fatman narrow control arms on my 71 Camaro clip in my 47 = $$$$. If you do change the suspension, I agree with using a Dakota or GM over the Mustang II. Either way you're going to have to lop the frame rails off at the firewall so why would you put a Pinto front end in with R&P? FWIW (free opinions are worth what you paid for) Adam
    1 point
  4. That place is getting scarier all the time !!! You are a creative thinker Don !
    1 point
  5. they are intellectual property of Dodge/Chrysler and likely not available to the public.
    1 point
  6. I once was responsible for a 16 cylinder electric motor driven ammonia refrigeration compressor. This had a common crankshaft. Came in one morning and the output was half of the normal capacity. The driven end of the crankshaft was spinning and there were no strange noises. Investigation found that the crankshaft had split right in the middle so the driven half was running and the other half was not.
    1 point
  7. You might keep in mind that most, if not nearly all, engine builders suggest strongly that timing chain and gears be replaced as a set. And bleeding cash is the name of the game. How else are you going to spend 20k on a truck that will bring 7 or 8k on a good day?
    1 point
  8. Looking good. Nice job
    1 point
  9. Drum roll please! The major difference to make more HP was Higher compression due to smaller combustion chambers. The 57 head looks a lot like the Edmund's head that was near 9 to one compression depending on which engine it went on.
    1 point
  10. Welcome aboard the best mopar forum around...........why do you want to swap out the original front suspension?................they can be made to work quite well........rebuild the suspension bushes and kingpins then get some new coil springs made, maybe 2" lower, get the upper shock mount changed to a solid mount on the chassis and maybe also get a thicker front swap bar made.......also throw a disc brake kit in there and you'll be able to go hunt some Frods & Chebolays........lol...........swapping out the stock style IFS is a much more involved proceedure than doing it on a car with straight chassis rails as our mopars have all the spring pocket stampings and much heavier front crossmember that'll get in the way..............I've seen pics of some done but unless you have fairly strong modifying & fabrication skills I'd think twice...........btw my Oz 1940 Dodge with the stock style IFS has a thicker sway bar, lowered/thicker springs & disc brakes and handles reasonably well and has done so since I built it in the 1970's.........my Oz 2 cents worth, regards, Andy Douglas
    1 point
  11. Here's a couple pictures of the progress. Not much to see, just blocking, blocking, and more blocking. I'm getting tired of sanding, and I'm tired of the mess! I have the front clip, cowl, roof, and both driver side doors done. The car seems to be straight now. It will be good enough for what we're after. Just takes time.... The last picture is of the wiring harness project. Just showing how it's laid out on my plane building table. I plan on replacing one wire at a time as I pull it apart. Shouldn't be too bad.
    1 point
  12. Sorry for the food pic. Here are some more.
    1 point
  13. Nice work my friend! 48D
    1 point
  14. I'm Jealous Brent! Those wheels and tires look so pretty!
    1 point
  15. Looking great buddy!
    1 point
  16. Looks great Brent. Have you got it running good now?
    1 point
  17. Whoohoo! The best Saturday night in recent memory. LOL.
    1 point
  18. Finally getting back to this project. We listed and sold out house, and moved to a new home since the last post. Craziness. I was planning to drop the master cylinder out for rebuild. I hear it can be done still installed but I think I'd rather pull it. I thought removing the floor panel may make access easier. You guys probably know this, but floor panel does not just unscrew and pop out. The clutch and brake pedal linkage seem to have to come out with the floor panel. It seems there is no way for the floor panel to come up over the pedals. Those who rebuild: Do you remove master cylinder or leave it bolted in place? Here's the big move. Car was drivable but I did not want to drive it on our wet snowy sanded, de-ice sprayed crappy roads.
    1 point
  19. Lol, I was just thinking about a quick update too! Not much has changed if you were to look at the car. We spent a Saturday lining up the front end. we had some problems with the hood gaps. I also was able to get one front fenders blocked out (they are BIG fenders!), but our main focus has been the wiring harness the past two weeks. We decided to try and do some inside work while its cold out, so that was the next logical place to go! It's one thing to have a painted car, but it's another to be able to start it and drive! We are replacing the engine, and dash harness along with the transmission harness. While I was working on the body, my dad carefully removed the original wiring and labeled all the connections. He also made a book with descriptions of his labeling which has worked out pretty well so far with the help of the wiring diagram in the shop manual. We inventoried each wire by gauge, length, color, and connection type, and I ended up placing an order this week with Rhode Island Wiring for all the supplies and the braided wire. I priced out buying the harness, and making it ourselves is going to save around $700. That $700 will hopefully pay for a set of tires! I like wiring, so it should be fun! It's just going to take a little bit of time. We are planning to get some more of the car blocked this Saturday if nothing else pops up in our schedules. I'll try and remember to take some pictures!
    1 point
  20. One more photo. This is at the back. Bands would open the door and load their equipment here.
    1 point
  21. I will now pipe in with my standard reply......remove your cluster and other various items from the back of the dash, scuff the interior of the dash with scotch brite pad, tack clean, and paint with the brightest gloss white you can find. Reinstall said items. This will ensure the next time you are on your head under the dash that everything will be clearly illuminated by your lite of choice......you will congratulate yourself later on having such a brilliant idea.....lol.
    1 point
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