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Here is my first try at posting pic’s. Hope this works.

Sorry for the food pic. Here are some more.

First and foremost I have to introduce my sidekick and truck mechanic my grandson Braxton ....He is by my side in the garage every weekend helping "Papa" rebuild and restore Braxton truck "Lucy" Braxton says thumbs up to all of you helping "US" with my sometimes silly questions...

Both of these totally RUST FREE California girls have never been driven on snow! They're deathly afraid of the dreaded 'Tin Worm', who lives in the salt brime that is spread to combat the slippery road surfaces.

Ok, here is another one or two or three if I can load more than one at a time.

It has an IND-7(237) with a 1941 Spitfire Head.

Welcome aboard the best mopar forum around...........why do you want to swap out the original front suspension?................they can be made to work quite well........rebuild the suspension bushes and kingpins then get some new coil springs made, maybe 2" lower, get the upper shock mount changed to a solid mount on the chassis and maybe also get a thicker front swap bar made.......also throw a disc brake kit in there and you'll be able to go hunt some Frods & Chebolays........lol...........swapping out the stock style IFS is a much more involved proceedure than doing it on a car with straight chassis rails as our mopars have all the spring pocket stampings and much heavier front crossmember that'll get in the way..............I've seen pics of some done but unless you have fairly strong modifying & fabrication skills I'd think twice...........btw my Oz 1940 Dodge with the stock style IFS has a thicker sway bar, lowered/thicker springs & disc brakes and handles reasonably well and has done so since I built it in the 1970's.........my Oz 2 cents worth, regards, Andy Douglas

Here's a couple pictures of the progress. Not much to see, just blocking, blocking, and more blocking. I'm getting tired of sanding, and I'm tired of the mess! I have the front clip, cowl, roof, and both driver side doors done. The car seems to be straight now. It will be good enough for what we're after. Just takes time.... The last picture is of the wiring harness project. Just showing how it's laid out on my plane building table. I plan on replacing one wire at a time as I pull it apart. Shouldn't be too bad.

I find it interesting that a few members on this forum frequently slam the posters with high posting counts wondering why there counts are so high. Reason just might be because us high posters frequently answer postings to assist folks. The folks who slam us high posters rarely respond to forum member posting questions unless the questions are about stuff they have for sale even though they claim to have factory engineering documents at there disposal. Food for thought.

blue print as in the blue line mechanical drawings of the components...? if building blue prints, the specs is in the manual

Oops, forgot the interior shots.

Thanks all for your kind commments.

Boy, after reading this thread, I went back and looked at the initial picture. In my opinion there is something really wrong going on that can't be corrected by just going to solid wire and gas. I keep a roll of flux core around in case I run out of gas at an inconvenient time, and I never had results like this from it. My suggestion would be for the O/P to go out and buy a fresh spool of flux core, get a couple of scrap pieces of appropriate gauge clean sheet metal and try again, varying the speed and power settings. If he doesn't get significantly better results, he should find someone with a working mig that he can try. I think there may be something wrong with his welder.

Thanks guys! Julie picked the yellow choice and if she is going to drive it for "nursery hopping" as she put it, I figured radials would be the best. Yeah Davin, it WAS running decent until..... I pulled all the wiring and I am rebuilding the carb..... we will see.... Trying to make it to the "Q" again with it.

So many questions Steve Keep 'em coming! Q1. The puller is your best chance with the rear hub. Some of them do get stuck on there hard. I haven't found one yet that my puller and a hammer couldn't remove. I'm thinking that you would have backed off the brakes with the adjuster nuts on the back of the backing plates. Try tapping the drum with the hammer some... but not too hard that you will distort or damage the drum! If that doesn't work... maybe a little heat or a more heavy duty drum puller. Q2. 80-90 compression is alright. A new engine will push out closer to 120. Your readings are consistent between each cylinder so I reckon that should work fine. Q3. Your gas tank looks like one from Tanks Inc. I can't help you with which hole the sender goes in sorry as I have not bought one of their tanks (I'm in Oz and the freight to me would be ridiculous). Here's their link... http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=349/category_id=68/mode=prod/prd349.htm

Looks to be a newer tanks made by "tanks inc." See attached from their website tanks says their fuel level sender is a 5 bolt setup, so that is most answer. 5 Bolt Fuel Sending Unit.htm

And a bbq grill in trunk or box tapped in for roadside burgers and dogs....lol

Merle, to bad we both can’t be there together but I totally get it, it’s taken me 11 years to make the journey. I will do my best to keep them in line for you. Problem may be the influence Mark may have on them.

" Bad Times at the El Royale" featuring Jeff Bridges, Russell Crowe Chris Hemsworth, and my truck. Filming here in BC, but it will be Lake Tahoe 1960 when it comes out. The armoured car is the wheels in the air background The fake snow has been a real PTA to clean, it is like a globby gelatin paper spitball

and it begins...a modern tear down is WAY different....

Make sure you have an extinguisher handy, never know what a cat might do!

Folks-these are locking ring rims, not split ring unless you have the type of rim that actually comes apart in the middle. If the rim and lock ring is in good shape any tire shop that does truck tires should be able to work on them-but not the ones that split in the middle. Make sure that you have the deep offset coined rims if you're going to run duals so that the inner sidewalls don't touch when mounted on the truck. Some 7:50 will scrup w/o a load on the vehicle so I've decided to go with 7:00 x 16's with a Cooper made (import)steer bias ply for around $90 a piece. Mike

objection, facts not in evidence......I would think if the heater was being used, so would the engine be running....and the very snow at the exhaust exit does not display signs of this being the case.... I am impressed that the other vehicle did pass on the left....