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APRIL 14TH 2018 CLEMENTS TAILGATE BBQ in CLEMENTS, CALIFORNIA Home of the largest meet up of Dodge Pilot-House Era Trucks in the WHOLE WORLD!!! MARS AND JUPITER TOO!!! We get invaded by Vintage Cars and Trucks from other makers, BUT WE DON'T CARE! CUZ WE ARE COOL TRUCKERS AND DON'T MIND THE WIERDOS! ...at least I don't.....lol Looking forward to seeing everyone again!!!! Woohoo! Timothy A. Estrada aka 48Dodger

Hi Ed; Yes they are not in the way at all. Of course this is the wide bed...... but that is a 48" wide piece of plywood in the photos. I haul stuff all the time and this set up works well. To me the hooks on the outside of the bed that most folks seem to have are really only useful for tying down a tarp over a tall load. Like hay or boxes. Several times I have had well over a thousand pounds of hardwood lumber or the doors I make in the truck. With ratchet straps nothing ever moves around. Jeff

The "S" denoted the lower priced series when there were two series to one model number. P-18S was for the 1949 DeLuxe 118½" wheelbase models while the Special DeLuxe was P18C. For 1950 Chrysler dropped the letters and replaced them with numbers. The P20 Deluxe was now P20-1 while the Special DeLuxe was P20-2. Chassis only units were classified "C" from 1946 through 1949, no "S" series. As matter of fact the lower priced series (S) was not exported to any country in that period and all export Plymouths and Plymouth-based Dodges and DeSotos were Special DeLuxe models (C). Only Canada and the U.S. marketed Plymouth DeLuxe (S) and only Canada the Plymouth-based Dodge DeLuxe (S) Of course, companies that purchased chassis units from North America and used locally built bodies could use any series classification they wanted. The 1954 Australian Plymouth, Dodge Kinsgway and DeSoto Diplomat had a "-4" series not used in North America and that was used through 1956. .

Here are a couple of photos of the tie down Eye-bolts I have been using in my truck. These are good for heavy loads down in the bed and are actually through bolted into the frame. Keeps stuff from shifting around during transit and wont bend the bed sides. There are 4 of these on each side of my 3/4 ton truck bed. Hth., Jeff

low compression is a common issue on a engine that has been sitting, stuck valves, lapping the valves, oil in the cylinders to reseat the rings, common issues and fixes for these engines. Before you buy another that was pulled and then sat, may have same issue you have now ... investigate and find out why you have low compression and what is needed to correct the problem. Then replace or rebuild as you please, with the knowledge of why you are replacing/rebuilding. You may just need a 30 min fix to get yours running now.

How long has it been since the 201 engine in the car has run? If it has been a while I would remove the spark plugs and put seven or eight squirts of thin engine oil into each cylinder. Let it sit for a short while and then with the plugs still out, turn the engine over several time so the cylinder walls get coated then replace the plugs and see if it will start up. I have had success with engines that have not been run for a while. If it does start up after doing this, it will smoke like hell but burn off in short order. You may notice that after the engine has been running for a bit, the compression might improve somewhat. I hope so, John R

Me too!

We live very close, & my restoration project is 3/4 done. If you want to stop in and check out my project, it's in Granite falls. So you can get a grasp on what your in for, also check out my photos on my profile. I'm a weekend only guy, with a family the project sometimes takes a backseat. I will be there this Sunday, it is at my brothers house. I live in a condo in Kirkland. Welcome to the club! Vince

I've done 2 R10s and with a good manual they aren't too hard. I got my parts from Northwest Transmission.

Here are mine.

Just a few more pictures to show the "pocket" or "channel" that attaches the foot board to the cab. 48D

Be gentile if you use a breaker bar and socket on the crank pulley, rock it back and forth add more oil and be patient. Going around the whole car with some lube will prob really help things. I have a boat gas tank I use on my old car, truck, Jeep projects for temp fuel source. Be sure to strap it down and be careful with it.

Yep, I agree with most of the comments here so far. You may have a daily driver before you know it. Get the engine running, give her about 4 barrels of elbow grease, and take her down the road!

Drain rad. Pull head. Free up cylinders. While pistons are enjoying their oil bath, release valve retainers and do an inspection on all valve seating sufaces. If you’re lucky valves only need some lapping. Seal ‘em up tight! Clean plugs cap and rotor. By now hopefully engine turns over. Reinstall head. Crank it over and take compression test. If over 90 across all, get some fuel in there. Refill rad. Fire engine up! Proceed to kill all mosquitos in your area. Set timing and next thing you know, you’re our cruising with the stock 6 flathead...Hopefully. Thats certainly a lot easier than swapping in a V8.

I replaced the 8 main anchoring bolts in the bed of my truck with large eye-bolts and this has worked out well for me. Have had well over 1000# tied down several times without the load shifting. Jeff

I made sills for my 50 Ply wagon out of 1/8" aluminum. They do have a taper and making a template from cardboard was needed first. After getting them done I had them powder coated in a flat aluminum look.

I replaced the fluorescent light fixtures in my garage with the LED lighting. Big difference and I should have done it sooner.

well.....yes and no...you could get lucky and it improve as the rings start to free up on the piston lands but lets say valves may be part of the issue...continuing to run it with poor valve face or seats etc. will only lead to a continuation of the degrading of the valve, whereas head off, good inspection, clean lap and proper adjust would be all that was need for peace of mind and proper engine compression....

An even bigger rarer Imperial.. A 1935 Chrysler CW Imperial Custom Airflow LeBaron Limousine with the 385 ci eight.... first use of the one piece windshield

Greg......I wouldn't listen too closely to me sometimes.............lol............seriously tho' just did a US ebay search under " mopar steering box" and there is a pair of 40-54 Plymouth & Dodge steering box repo Isolator rubber pads.......these go bewteen the box & chassis and outside the chassis and are notorious for becoming soft & spongy allowing the steering box to move on the chassis and I know that when I replaced the pair on the 41 Plymouth I had it made a huge difference to the steering response............theres also some shims advertised as well.........and under "plymouth steering box" there are 2 listings for rebuild kits that include the 2 bearings, 2 races, 2 bushes & 1 seal...they state Plymouth but I think the Dodge & Plymouth use the same steering box 1940-54, tho' not certain....................andyd

I’m 74 and have been playing with cars my whole life! Here is a picture of me sitting on my first car! Well it was my first car when I turned 13 years old. It was a hand me down family car and my brother gave it to me to get me out of his hair. I completely took it apart and put it back together befor my 15 birthday! And used it all during my highschool days! No top but who in California needed one. Jon

Hi all, I have an early 1933 Dodge Six with TJ Richards body, I want to prepare to compete in the 2019 Peking to Paris rally, the world's most demanding transcontinental motor challenge - 7610 miles across the globe. Does anybody know the production numbers on this model? All information is wellcome. E.g. 17" wheels vs 16" on US versions? We're looking to make a RHD to LHD conversion and to put a T5 gearbox in it. Can anybody tell me if this export version has a standard Dodge chassis? I'm told some are on Plymouth chassis apperently. The windshield frame is much lower than a US version. Is this typical TJR? Are there pictures of similar roadsters? My windshield is in bad condition and I think they have messed around with the wiper installation. Thanks!

and another side mount ........................

There is also the weight of the solo driver and the battery to off set. That's why I moved mine to the passenger side.

The spare I nice under the bed til you must use the filthy thing. I will mount mine on the passenger side bed to off set the weight of the fuel in the tank. And then when needed, nice and clean and easy to get. Jmho