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Do not overlook that the original filter was designed as part of the induction system , extending the column of air moving through the carburetor and tuned to reduce noise. Oil bath filters can be messy but are pretty effective. Even on my two carb setup I run two stock filters. (the type used on dual carb trucks)

Personally I think the factory oil bath air cleaner looks much better than this.

LOL I also had to chuckle. I installed my T-5 about 18 years ago without the assist of a kit or instructions. Was there a "kit" for your A833 install 15 years ago? Sounds like doing a T-5 was well over the capabilities of your shop as you are incorrect when you say the gear shifter is too far back and the gear ratios out of line. As far as the work involved please post details of the more than a dozen A833 swaps you have done. I am not stating that a T-5 is better. I am just looking for details on how to do an A833 upgrade with documented photos. I may want to do such an upgrade myself depending on what you or anyone with documentation can tell me. Thanks for sharing your information.

bluefoxamazone, I really like the the way your convertible looks, it appears to be so stock and untouched - just my kind of car. The factory oil bath air cleaner isn't particularly beautiful, but form does follow function. I personally would keep the factory unit, or at least the factory look if I were running a single carburetor. Here are some pictures of a modified factory oil bath from my collection of stuff. Yes, the filter mesh was gutted, but when assembled it looks stock. Maybe the best of both worlds, maybe not. At least, it's easy to service.

You really have two A833 4 speeds. 1 is cast iron and was the same tranny put in Hemis as it was a 318. The next generation is lighter aluminum case and it has overdrive in it. The cast iron ones are high demand and expensive and I have lots of experience with them. The aluminum ones are not as expensive although like so much of the 70s stuff that would have had these transmissions, they were crushed. That is the challenge and the issue.

Sorry I had to chuckle.. This from the guy who made his on intake and exhaust setup out of tube and stuff? I doubt it was a matter of what your time was worth and likely isnt for 55 Fargo Spitfire. Putting in an A833 OD or non-overdrive is exactly the same effort. It really was not a big deal vs putting in a T5 which was a big deal it really was. Getting a kit from Langdon for the T5 was a bunch easier than some of the step by step instructions I have seen on this site but it was still a lot of work and the shifter was too far back etc. The splits on the A833 are just fine but of course depends on what rear end ratio you have. The 1st one I did was now 15 years ago. Since I have or had a shop I own do more than a dozen of them. They have been behind 217s, 230s, 201s, 250 and 265 engines. For those who really are using a pickup as a car and maybe with the odd load of stuff its perfect. For those with older cars that had floor shift 3 speeds and are looking for an overdrive but are unable to find a decent r6 overdrive its a blessing.

I took 1 corner in mine and made a welding /grinding area for smaller removable parts and sheeted the walls and ceiling with tin and then put one of those freight curtians, you know the plastics ones that hang down in strips, on a rail so i can move it. it helps control the sparks and debris... also helps on the fire control. ALSO FIRE EXTINGUISHERS AND I MEAN MORE THEN 1!!! I say in floor heat and make the doors wide... 10 is nice

I made mine out of masonite.

Any engine power loss was not in the equation when I went to an electric fan. I installed an engine 2 inches longer than the original engine and I went electric to gain the lost real estate.

Thanks Thomba, I wasn't aware that they were a molded rubber...........apologies if I've confused the issue............andyd

Off the top of my head I believe that is the standard 46-48 plymouth carb.

Your choice. Do your own thing -you own it and will drive it. I t is your time and expense so get 'er done! DJ

DrDr is absolutely correct.

Could you get the port holes large enough for kids?

No trimming is required or advised, when the pan is tightened everything slides into place creating a leak free seal. The end pieces float are left long to allow them to slide and fit tightly into the radius of the oil pan as it tightened down. If the end pieces are cut they won’t wedge themselves and seal properly and most likely leak oil.

This count???? Nearly drown several times. Doors leak but that also lets the water out! One doesn't sign up for this but it has never intimated me from enjoying the moment. Ya get hero points too!

Found this in Speedway catalog but could go to NAPA and probably buy it by the foot for a buck. Rubber grommet or hose just as good. I ripped the back of my sheet metal stake pockets when bumping into my lights one too many times so I relocated them to my bumper and tucked them in. I also got tired of people telling me I had a taillight out so I splurged on some l.e.d.s in stainless buckets and run my wires below the intended hole in the bed.