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  1. If that is the only metal repair you need to make, forget welding it yourself. Go ahead and cut out the bad place, and fab your repair panel, then take it to a welding shop. If you want to learn welding, take a class at a community college before you invest in any equipment. After completing the welding class you will know what you want. Now you are guessing. If you buy welding equipment of any kind now and attempt to fix that panel, you will probably end up with something you don’t want. Good welding takes knowledge and practice. Right now you have neither.
    4 points
  2. The fact you are on a site like this one, means you have an interest in the art of creation. Metal fab, engine building, wiring/intruments, upholstrey, suspension geometry, paint, metal treatment, and even glass.......There are alot of trades in that there truck, finding one that really does it for you is gonna go a long way if you really go after it. Metal Shaping Engine Building Automotive painting Frame building/suspension Automotive electronics and wiring Transmissions and Running gear Automotive Testing and Racing To have a complete fabrication shop only means you have to love a few of the trades....the rest are friends of yours. To have everything needed to do a vehicle front to back in a home shop, one would have to invest a ton. I sometimes feel understanding someone's trade and respecting their investments and abilities is as important as respecting your own abilities. When I see someone's super cool ride, I know its his, but I also know he made some friends along the way who helped build it. Oh damn....I think I just ranted....sorry about that. 48D
    2 points
  3. Also if you take your part to a college welding class they might weld it up for you for free .
    2 points
  4. This was my Dad's original 1938 Desoto - Plymouth Approved Service Dealer Sign. My Grandfather had a later Desoto- Plymouth sign and a Chrysler - Fargo Trucks sign hanging on the outside of his shop, which he built after he retired from Chrysler Corporation. It was a 42" sign and of course Dad always admired it. When Grandfather passed away the signs were sold at auction and the pair sold for $18,500 and after their sale Dad almost immediately started looking for one. Years later on his first trip to our friend George Asche's he smiled when he saw George had one hanging on his garage. I took a picture of the pair of them in front of the garage and it became one of Dad and George's favourite pictures. The meeting of the Northern and Southern Flathead Mopar minds. In any case, it would be about a decade later when Dad would finally see one come up for auction and of course it wound up costing more than did the one that sold at Grandfathers Auction. During the lead up to the auction it came to light that dealer sign was an original 1938 sign and as we checked out the sign measured it, and then compared it to the one that sold at Grandfathers sale, there was indeed a slight difference in size. Grandfathers was 42" and this one was 45". Grandfathers, well it had made its way back to Chrysler and was on display at the Walter Chrysler Museum. Given its age, it was in remarkable conditions when found (see picture of the pre-restoration sign) but after speaking to George who wished he had restored the enamel instead of painting its spots missing enamel, and speaking to the Curator at the Walter Chrysler museum it was decided to have it restored by the best we could find. It underwent a world class restoration on the few areas that needed attention, by the leading enamel sign restoration company, Don Van Kannel - Van Kannel Sign Restoration and it is in absolutely spectacular condition. Sadly its restoration would take a number of years, and Dad would pass away without ever seeing it finished. The family has wrestled with keeping it, or selling it. It had been appraised at $15,000 prior to it being restored and with the restoration cost, the imminent sale of Mom and Dad's place it really didn't make sense to keep it. So we put it up for sale and also consigned it to a large automotive memorabilia auction. We got a few people express interest, and a couple of trade offers, but nothing serious, so off it went to the automotive memorabilia auction with no reserve but a guarantee for the auction company on the minimum sale price. As our luck has seem to have gone lately, the sign appeared to sell at the auction for well above the guarantee the auction company had provided us. But a couple of days after the auction we were told that the buyer had failed complete the sale. Grrrrrrr, what else can you say. So the Sign went up for sale on this week Ebay and locally. Here is the listing - and the current bid is $17,250 (a verified buyer with a 5780 rating) http://www.ebay.com/itm/252734854732?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 We have put it up for sale at less that we (Dad) had in the sign, but it needs a new home and we would really like to see it go to a new home. We might consider a trade for something, but it will need to be something one of the family wants, and then they will put the cash into the estate. If you have any questions feel free to drop me a note at fargopickupking@yahoo.com Thanks for your time Tim Kingsbury
    1 point
  5. Howdy Folks - I thought I would do an update on a few topics. 1st the most important one being my buddy George Asche Jr. George who was hospitalized a few months ago continues to be regaining his health at a rate I think everyone including he himself find remarkable. I was down last week and helped him build another engine and a bunch of other thing. He continues to work through a long list of promised work, from engines and over drives, to intake, carbs and linkage. The last AoK racing triple intake for the big blocks was finished and shipped out. It is going on a 1937 Chrysler 6 cylinder. A very close to stock engine, with standard pistons, cam and new undersized bearings. I have enclose a picture of that as well as George finishing off a fresh engine built and one of the AoK - George Asche Jr tribute intakes for the USA Small blocks. We down to just 1 or 2 of those . Next topic, intake updates: As I have talked earlier, with our good friend Tom ceasing operations we had to move the casting of both the Triples for the Canadian 25 1/2" big block flathead and the USA 23 1/2" dual carb intakes. We also sadly lost the services of George long time friend Bob Stover who was responsible for the machining of the AoK triples from when we 1st started to make them over a decade ago until God gave him the checkered flag and he passed away. Moving to a new supplier also saw cost increases. We have worked closely with both suppliers as well as looked at other options for having them cast and machined elsewhere. In the end, we were able to reduce the overall costs, and get the minimum order quantity down to the point that we are going to consider another run of intakes. Sorry Folks - Both AoK intakes are now sold out. If you would like to be on a waiting list you can email us at fargopickupking@yahoo.com Thanks Tim Kingsbury and George Asche Jr Below pictures are the AoK dual and triple intake that are being set up for the pre-WW2 cars ad all trucks, pickups and powerwagons which have linkage going down the intake/exhaust side of the blocks
    1 point
  6. ...and a film can of da kine brah. Hey, I have that same blanket.
    1 point
  7. well couple options here.....look on the internet under images for the year car you have and see if you can locate a picture of the style mirror that may suit your fancy. Then/Or go to e-bay and type in vintage car door mirror and see what styles are being offered. No one says you have to buy from e-bay, but for certain they can show you what is readily available to you almost immediately...I'd suggest walking through a junkyard but you do not have them available..
    1 point
  8. Hmmmm- only one notch per cork gasket strip, though. Might just make sure that the notches go to the rear main..
    1 point
  9. The notches fit around the ridges (red arrows) on the rear main bearing cap and the aluminum oil pan plate in front of the front main bearing cap. Adhere the gasket to the block and the cork strips to the pan front and rear retainers. Be sure to leave about 1/8" of the cork strips extending past to bottom pan to insure a tight fit at these corners. Put a dab of silicone on each of the notches before you install the pan.
    1 point
  10. will not talk you out of the Henrob 2000 by Cobra...and while a small amount of coin for jumping in, buy it as a package deal you can come out ok...buy it a piece here or a piece there the price really goes up. Again I find the torch heavy and bulky for most body repairs where you standing on your head or working in a corner...the basic setup of tanks and hoses are the same for either torch...a good Victor Jr. torch would be all you need for basic work about the shop and are inexpensive. The secret as I said many times is in the tips. Most kits come with a #1 tip and that is WAAAAAAAAAY to large a tip for welding sheet metal.....an 0 is so so, the 00 is my most go to for sheet metal on cars....and the 000 you can weld tin cans and AC ducting with a beautiful bead...albeit when you go that small your weld wire should be the proper size. ALSO use the tig steel rods for welding in 1/8; 3/32; 1/16 as needed as they are copper coated, flow easy, no splatter or sparking...when doing your tin cans, use the .030 copper coated mig wire.....remember it is the welding in absence of oxygen that you get the brittled metal....
    1 point
  11. fast/easy and does older metal to new without burnout (wire punching through with the MIG) the weld is malleable and not oxygen brittled, allowing you to hammer dolly if needed with less fear or chance of cracking...for me it is also a very universal tool for shaping, cutting if needed, of course. weld, braze, sweat and solder if needed. you can heat stuck bolts and nuts for easy removal, blow a blind hole and the list goes on and on...PLUS, with the torch I have I can do aluminum, cast iron and whole lot more, the MIG is so limited in comparison.
    1 point
  12. IF the damage in the picture is all that is wrong with this particular piece you are looking at less than 1 hour cut fab and weld with oxygen acetylene...my preferred method of welding.
    1 point
  13. Here is that ring NOS and what the horn medallion looks like.....
    1 point
  14. 4th-thru 5th. try will seem easier ??. Sorry not trying to have fun at your beautiful engine expense! Love it! It will be worth it in the end! Best to you, you Will get it done. DJ
    1 point
  15. most would use a mig welder hobart makes a good low cost welder. make sure when miging that your metal is sanded or ground to a shine finnish your weld will be much better and your mig should be an argon mig I think you will like it better than a non argon mig. go on you tube and watch some videos on patch panel repair and you will get an idear if you feel you are up to it. A floor is a good place to start to learn because most of what you do will not be seen. Thats my two cents worth others I am sure have some good input too. Neil
    1 point
  16. 51 to 3 are the same but different from 49 to 52 but then NZ may have been using left over parts. The 51-3 is held on by three insulated screws under the centre ornament. The 49 and 50 is held down by a cast retainer which comes off with three screws after the cap is pulled The 51 to 3 , the centre ornament is depressed and rotated with two thumbs. it can then be teased out if the hole. Given the cost of shipping, you had better get this right. Your picture shows a 51 to 3
    1 point
  17. Thanks for your input.I did another flange gasket,with reduced center hole.That gasket is thin,the prior was thick.Tomorrow I will change the oil.My cock(BOLT) is always in front the hub cap singing and looking what I am doing in my cars."Who runs because like,does not feel tired"
    1 point
  18. lol....having spent time in John T's garage....I know what he keeps under the car cover! Just have to keep the crew honest is all...:D 48D
    1 point
  19. lol.....Only thing I smoke are my tires and any lesser brands that pull up in the lane next to mine.......:D 48D
    1 point
  20. Sadly this is an idea that may work with other engines, but it most certainly does not work with the flathead. We have done extensive tests. Shortly I will do a complete blog entry on it. But the short version is that when an engine 1st starts up the temperature of the water/antifreeze is the outside air temperature. I dont want to get into a big technical arguement as I know at minus 46 degrees the antifreeze isnt minus 46 so save the comment. Are the water is moved by this plate at start up you are actually drawing heat away from the intake. Heat that even with the split i the exhaust is naturally coming from the exhaust and hitting the intake. Now headers made from stock exhaust actually have a closer profile to the intake than does say fentons, so there is more heat coming from them. But with the water heat attached you have no positive effect until the engine has actually reached close to or reached operating temperature. My then you dont need it. Prior to that point you are actually drawing temperature away from the intake. I can say that with absolute certainty. I have tested it at multiple temperature ranges. Just like I have with the couple of generations of edmunds that offered water heating. So save your time and money. It doesnt work as one might expect and the icing of carbs, Ive heard this story many times and have see many cars do it, but none where flathead mopars until we are talking very cold temperatures which there are some on the forum that drive in them. Absolutely no doubt about that. In that case split your exhaust internally and leave it connected to the intake.
    1 point
  21. As a Naval aviation enlisted man AMH1, Our saying was eff it, fly it......lol. Since you are walking and talking I'm guessing you never lost a Jesus nut.......Does your fluid drive coupling work properly? If so leave it alone, it requires no maintenance, think of it as a constant speed drive for a emergency genny....pretty much bullet proof.....resist the temptation...it doesn't need a 7/14 day.
    1 point
  22. Well here is the wiring diagram (courtesy of George Asche. Yes bypassing the circuit certainly tells you whether that was an issue. The electronic ignition by itself really doesnt have anything to do with anything assuming everything is wired correctly. Ill drop you a pm.
    1 point
  23. Not only that, but those cables either get frozen in place, or they rust in two, although I don't imagine that would happen on a historical vehicle, because it's not going to be exposed to road salt like a daily driver is (at least here in the "salt belt"). I had an S-10 PU, and when i was going to sell it, I looked underneath to see what the spare looked like, and it was gone! The cable had broken at some point, and the spare dropped away onto the road, and who ever was driving it at the time never noticed.
    1 point
  24. Here is my carter ball and ball cheat sheet. Always keep in mind that it is very common to see people swapping tops, middle sections and bases so often looking at the marked part number on the carb bowl wing turns out to be foiled when someone has swapped around parts. Add in different jetting and carter ball and ball carbs give you an incredible range of carburation choices. This isn't a definitive list of every Carter Ball and Ball used, and some I didn't list throttle bores and venture sizes, nor did I get into jetting. You can literally wind up with paralysis by analysis with all the combinations an permutations there are available. Carter ball and ball Carburetor - Tim's cheat sheet Plymouth - 3 bolt – center section is 660 for Plymouth – starting 1950 2 bolt – center section is 635 - 1949 only 2 bolt – center section is 370 - 1939 – 1948 633s 1934-35 taxi base 395-4 (1 1/8 throttle bore 1 1/16 venturi) 1933 – 1938 – model 439s (1 7/16 throttle bore and 1 ¼ venturi) 1940 – 1942 - “P9” Carter Carb Ball and Ball model # b6p1, b6r1 and b6s1 (2 hole base) (1 5/32 throttle bore 1 3/32 venturi) 1942 (p14) and 1946-48 (p15) Model d6g1 – (2 hole base) (1 9/16 throttle bore 1 ¼ venturi) * 1949 (p17 – p18) 1950 (p19-p20), 1951-52 (p22 – p23), 1952 (p24) and 1954 (P25) model d6h1, d6h2 ( 1 9/16 throttle bore 1 ¼ venturi) there was a d6n1, d6n2 and d6r1 which are the same as the 1949-1954 carbs but have throttle restrictors * 1953 – 1954 – P24-p25 Plymouth with overdrives – D6U1 (1 9/16 throttle bore and 1 ¼ venturi) Dodge Bolt pattern on base is 2 15/16” and the center hole 1 11/16” 3 bolt – center section is 661 for Dodge truck 2 bolt - center section 404 – from early 1941 to 1947 1937 – 1940 truck - etr1r (2 hole base) 1940 – 1948 cabover is a 6c1, 6c2, 6d1, 6dir, 6e1, 6f1, 6g1, 6m1 (updraft carb) 1941, 42, 46, 47 truck etr1r, b6s1, dta2, dtb1-dtb1r, dtb2-dtb2r, dtb3-dtb3r, etp2, etr1-etr1r 1942 – 1949 trucks – model dtc1 (1 9/16 throttle bore and 1 ¼ venturi) or model ett1 (1 11/16 bore and 1 11/32 venturi) * 1946-1947 carbs with velocity governors – eyb1, eyb4, eyc1, eyc3, et1, et2, et4, e7b1, e7c1, e7f1, e7s1 * 1950-1954 ½ and ¾ ton and 1952 1 ton – dte1 and dte2 (1 9/16 throttle bore and 1 ¼ venturi) * 1950 – 1956 1 ½ - 3 ton – e7t1 and e7t2 (1 11/16 throttle bore 1 11/32 venturi) 1950-1954 cabover is 6n1 and 6n2 (updraft) ** 1952 2 ¾ - 4ton with dual carburetors – e7u1 and e7u2 1 11/16 throttle bore amd 1 11/32 venturi) E7t10-1533 center * Dodge d46 and d47 – 1953 - model d6h2 1 – 9/16 throttle bore and 1 ¼ venturi * Same thing but with overdrive – model d6u1 (same bore and venturi) ** 1953-1956 2 ½ ton truck with 2 carbs – model e9k1 and 39y1 (1 11/16 throttle bore and 1 11/32 venturi) (this is the 265 ci motor carbs) *1953-1955 2 ¾ ton – 3 ½ ton or 1953-56 4 ton – model e9g1 (1 11/16 throttle bore and 1 ¼ venturi) (this was the 331-377-413 big block motor with dual carbs) * 1953-1955 1 and 1 ½ ton truck (route van) e9h1 (1 11/16 throttle bore and 1 11/32 venturi) (this is the 331-377-413 big block – single carb) * 1954 d51 and d52 – e9n1 or e9t1 (1 11/16 throttle bore and 1 11/32 venturi)
    1 point
  25. for the record and maybe for you to copy..here is an original light bulb bracket for the P15 hood ornament..
    1 point
  26. In my opinion, I like them hidden under the truck and out of sight. They look funky hanging off the side, especially with the fender cutout. But again, just my opinion.
    0 points
  27. Folks - I started to write this note on Monday on what was the 80th Birthday of my good friend, George Asche's wife June's 80th birthday. June has been in extremely poor health for the last 14 months and has surpassed all of the medical experts estimates. The last few weeks have been a struggle but when I dropped by to visit with flowers as I have done for now close to 20 years, she smiled, thanked me and tried hard to carry on a conversation. She was a very cool lady. She was both extremely talented musically as she was up to Nascar races and what Mopar projects were going on around the AoK world. So I started my blog entry to pay tribute to the lady who called me her third son, which always got a both smile from both of us as I would say, I am always proud to be your oldest son, even if I was your last child.. Well, Monday was her 80th birthday and on Monday we started the celebration of her life as God called her home on her birthday. I apologize as I should have put up notification of her passing, but I just wasn't feeling up to it. On Wednesday evening there was a celebration of her life and the outpouring of love and support was incredible to see. At the end of the evening the count of the people who visited, was some how appropriate, being the magical Mopar number of 426! Thursday was her funeral service and it was a terrific service appropriate for just how special June was. It was an overflow crowd and was followed by a reception at the local church with enough food to feed a large army.... and I am not kidding. Here was the notice in the paper. http://www.fallerfuneralhome.com/obits/obituary.php?id=608005#.V18oeWWOgfE.facebook For those wondering how George is, I would say this. George and June have been married 60 years later this month. The loss of a spouse is a life changing event, but I know George well and he is at peace that his beloved June is today in a better place. June, like George was born again, and all of the family and close friends know that while June's time on earth has ended, her impact will go on forever and she is with God today, and likely either playing a guitar, piano, or watching a Nascar or NHRA race in heaven. George who was at June's side in the end as he has been on a constant basis during the last chapter of her life, I think finally got his 1st full nights rest in over a year this week. For those wishing to send a note to George, since I was asked today, George's address is 1693 Fertigs Road, Fertigs PA, 16364
    0 points
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