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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/22/2017 in all areas

  1. 3 points

    Show us your Christmas trucks

    my friends used this picture for their Christmas card taken by "ART" during my wedding reception.
  2. 2 points
    Plymouthy Adams

    Split exhaust/heat riser

    the area that would leak exhaust is already welded up , the intake section is an 'easy bake oven' so to speak...
  3. 2 points


    Close,but no cigar. Ain't NOTHING sounds nastier than a Max Wedge Mopar. Hot Y-block Fords do come close,though. They just don't make the ground shake as they idle past.
  4. 2 points
    re-sleeving is a good idea no matter how much the vehicle is driven. If driven little it seems like a high per mile cost, but vehicles driven less, and/or sit for long periods will benefit from re-sleeving by not having the failure associated with pitting cylinders. Loss of your brakes due to failed cylinders just once at the wrong time will reveal the shortsightedness of thinking a re-sleeve is not practical.
  5. 1 point
    1949 Wraith

    Split exhaust/heat riser

    I have a split exhaust on my '38 Dodge with the original Stromberg. I drive my car in temps down to around 20 degrees F when highways are clear (no heater). the only issue I have had is an occasional stall at a stop, then alleviated with applying a slight pull on throttle knob.I have noticed icing on the throat in the cold and condensation in the milder temps. The '38 has cowl vents and cools nicely, your '50 is probably a bit warmer under the hood.
  6. 1 point

    Me and the Meadowbrook

    Be thankful you are not in California or the environmentalists would likely require a study of the bats before you could do anything. LOL
  7. 1 point


    When I called Earl several years ago he was just getting into Mopars. I think that was 1999. He later did a head which I bought and it overheated. I asked about cam specs but he wouldnt really give me the specs. I ran into George Asche and Tim Kingsbury are Chrysler Carlisle and they had many cam patterns, including Esky patterns as well as custom grinds only they had. I asked for specs and they handed me over all of the specs for any cam. Whether Earl came up with more than 1 design I have no idea, but what I do know is the Asche's and Kingsbury family has been doing this for not a decade or two but over 50 years. If you want a cam, id strongly suggest getting in touch with them. There is my two cents.
  8. 1 point

    Split exhaust/heat riser

    it will run just fine the way it is. Might be prone to icing in the carb depending on temperature and humidity.
  9. 1 point

    Show us your Christmas trucks

    OK, the Dean family is stealing this idea next year. Great Christmas card!
  10. 1 point

    Idea for grill :)

    Someone needs to put air in those tires and run something over.
  11. 1 point
    Todd B

    low oil pressure

    Nice looking truck
  12. 1 point
    Jeff Balazs

    low oil pressure

    I doubt very much that the relief spring is the problem. If it were broken a problem would be present all the time. Could be an oil issue.....wrong viscosity, dilution etc...or it is caused by worn out main bearings and / or oil pump. Need more info. Jeff
  13. 1 point
    Yeah, That's how those small block chevy engines are. I ignored one for about 5 years, dumped gas down the carb and it fired right up.About a gallon of water puked out the tailpipe when it started though.
  14. 1 point

    Me and the Meadowbrook

    On that granary, I agree, put in a high door, store the car there and have blue grass and country/western concerts in the summer with old car friends!
  15. 1 point

    Me and the Meadowbrook

    HI Worden,your granary looks to be solid, usable building. Have you considered putting a overhead door in the end, and parking the Meadowbrook in there? Money saved could be used for gas in the Meadowbrook allowing you to keep your fan base entertained!!!
  16. 1 point

    Questions questions questions

    First off,you do NOT want to put a breaker bar with a lever on the crank nut. If you can't get the engine to turn over with all the spark plugs out of it just by using a normal breaker bar and moderate pressure,you need to go back and start over again. Pull all the plugs and fill all the cylinders with something like Kroil,or a mixture of WD-40 and ATF. Let it sit for a couple of days to allow any that is going to seep past the rings using gravity to do so. Pull the side plates so you can see which cylinders have closed valves,and then use a auto parts store "valve hold shut" device that is used to hold valves shut while changing springs on OHV engines. I have made them from old spark plugs by knocking out the center and then tapping it so a air hose fitting will screw into it. Anyhow,the idea is to crank your air compressor output up to it's max,and then attach a hose from the air compressor to each cylinder that has the valves closed,one by one. Sometimes this is enough because just one cylinder being stuck can keep the engine from turning over freely. Sit back and relax until you hear "blub,blub,blub" noises coming from the base (you did remove the oil filler cap,right?) of the first one you hooked the air line too,and then move on to the next one. Once you have both bleeding air/allowing the Kroil/whatever to bleed down,pour both full again. No such thing as too much lube when freeing a stuck engine. Hook up your battery and "bump" the starter. I do NOT mean twist the key like you are trying to start it,I mean "bump it". You might be surprised at how often this works. If it doesn't work,close the rest of the valves and do this to each cylinder until you get them all free and spinning. Do NOT forget to add more Kroil/whatever to each cylinder as you free them up. Finish off by spinning the engine with the starter for short periods of time until you have pumped up oil pressure on your gauge. Normally,this would be when you would put the spark plugs back in it and start it up,but in your case you would just put them back in and pull the engine. It might even save you some machine shop labor money because an engine that is lubed up and spinning freely is easier to disassemble. At a minimum it will mean fewer parts broken by the machine shop as they force it apart.
  17. 1 point

    Show us your Christmas trucks

  18. 1 point
    I used a universal rubber cowl seal. I got mine from soffseal.com which is similar to this picture I got from mac's antique auto parts online. The softseal catalog was a bit big and I did want to search it to far, but give you a idea of an automotive type stick on cowl seals out there.
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    I have used this exact rubber seal on parts like fender skirts. It worked fine and stuck in place. The fact that the seal is hollow makes it a little more prone to tearing though. I also use it for mounting spoilers to trunk lids where I don't want water getting under the spoiler and leaking through the bolt holes. In this situation it never gets moved except for repairs or something. Overall, it is cheap but not useless. I have removed it with a heat gun to help soften the glue with no paint removal on properly painted surfaces. If the paint is old or flakey then who knows. Hope that helps.
  21. 1 point
    Brent B3B

    Pilothouse spotted locally

    Shhh, don't tell (Rob) my b3hh he has a floor hand brake instead of the "T" under the dash brake.
  22. 1 point

    Show us your Christmas trucks

    I wanted to wish everyone a Merry Christmas snd introduce Ol Rufus
  23. 1 point
    I have a 1953 block that I received with two sets of main caps. I decided to check a few of them to see if I could determine which was the correct set. I have a dial bore gauge to check. what I found was that all the caps would interchange in their correct location i.e. Main on main position, #1 cap on #1 position etc. What this leads me to believe is that the caps were machined to a specification rather than to a specific block. A costly way on doing things, certainly not what I would have expected. Now, whether I could drop a crank into the block is another question. I don't have a good set of bearing shells to test this. I do not know the answer. What you might try is Bolting on the caps and seeing if they have overlap on the bearing shell parting lines. If they do, you have no alternative but to line bore. If they look good try installing the bearing shells drop in the crank and install a cap with a bearing inserted one at a time and see if the crank gets tight or turns smoothly. I'd then talk to your machine shop to see if they can verify whether it truly needs a line bore.
  24. 1 point
    Don Coatney

    Autolite IAT Distributors

    Thought I posted this yesterday but I must have not hit the submit reply button. On my dual point converted distributor the condenser is mounted externally. I also use an electric drill (550 RPM's) to adjust the dwell (point gap) with the distributor spinning for greater accuracy. I also use a vacuum generator to add the correct shims to the vacuum advance to correctly set the curve.
  25. 1 point
    Don Coatney

    Go fast 250 flathead?

    Thanks for the compliments on my engine. It has proven to be very dependable and I do not baby it. I once did just shy of 800 miles in one day and most of that was at 70 MPH. When I bought my engine the block was stripped naked and all the parts were in a basket so to speak. I was told that all the machine work had been completed but I found that was not the case as the crankshaft needed some additional work. The new valves that came with my engine are from a shiverlay. They work well. I was told that the new pistons were also chevy but I cannot verify that. The pistons are .030" oversize for a final diaplacement of 255 CI.


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