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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/16/2017 in all areas

  1. I used Teflon tape on all manifold studs and on all head bolts.
    2 points
  2. I do paint and body for a living so this is regular every day stuff for me. If you are removing panels like rockers, a spot weld cutter is nice. Drill bits work too, depends on how much you money want to invest in tools. Cut off wheels on either electric or air operated tools are best for cutting out ares of rust. Also, get some tech clamps for when welding the panels back together. I buy them from Eastwood but I believe harbor freight sells them too. They hold the pieces together great and give you a perfect gap. Good luck and remember not to rush your welding. Move around and allow the metal to cool in between.
    2 points
  3. It controls the brightness of the instrument lights. As Don Coatney likes to say, the instrument lights can be either dim or dimmer.
    2 points
  4. After purchasing a '47 Chrysler Windsor 4dr that had been sitting in a garage for over 8 years, I have finally got it to a point that I feel the car deserves. The previous owner past away a few months ago and had the vehicle stored away untouched as he was getting too old to maintain or drive it. The widow sold it to me for a great price since she knew I would restore the car back to its original glory and keep it in my family, and most importantly, DRIVE IT. It took me several weeks to accomplish but now the engine runs beautifully with a cleaned up engine compartment and the paint has been properly hand buffed and waxed. The interior was already in great shape but I am meticulously going through and replacing any dash wiring that needs attention due to dry rot. All fluids have been replaced except for the fluid drive since I haven't been able to source the fluid; finding the tranny fluid (SAE 10W) was hard enough to finally locate at TSC. I'm very proud on how she turned out and was able to give the original owner's widow a ride in it today. She was amazed on how it turned out which made me very happy.
    1 point
  5. Just ran across this Club. Let me know if my 1952 Dodge M37 qualifies me to join? She's 95% original and trying desperately to make it a higher percentage than that! A work in progress.
    1 point
  6. wayfarer, a lot of what you are saying rings true....the sbc was not then or it is now a true go to engine for power and longevity in a build. That has been proven false so many time by major players in the industry. But, it seems the very abundance of them at giveaway price or as in many cases they fall out of the GM car along the interstates made them ripe for just picking up and carry home. Sadly to say the lemmings that cannot lead tend to follow the easy to get trail of buy and bolt in rather than fabricate and forge ahead on their own. It will always be this way even if the new hemi crates become the standard for plug and play optional power. It is the path of least resistance and the one that "boltes"' are likely to follow. But the guy who travels the path less traveled and does the dare to be different will always turn a head a meet solely on the merit that it is so different from the norm. Dare to be different, devout member of the ABC...
    1 point
  7. Ya know, I had to ponder this for awhile and try to figure out 'where you came from'. I don't know what years you were starting your automotive journey nor do I know your location. Very important details were we look around to see what was going on. Magazines coverage of 'cool cars' is essentially what vehicle or which shop was close to the writer unless he had folks working for him in various places.....all of this long before Al Gore's internet came along, so magazines are not the be-all, end-all unless you are picking particular articles to support your position. That reminds me of a "engine swap manual" that had a really odd-ball 392Hemi swap in to a 1960 Lark. Perhaps we should we consider that to be the standard of the day. Back in the early-mid sixties my buddies and I managed a fair number of swaps and amazing enough is that none were shiverlays, unless it was back into a shiverlay. We had a 389 Pontiac go into a 39 Ply, a Nailhead into a 57 Hillman Husky, a 390 Cad into a 55 shiverlay pickup ( my God that thing was scary fast) a Packard 352 into a 40 Ford sedan and so on and so forth...but no sbc swaps. I suppose that they were as available as any other junkyard engine but we were after cubic inches and the little sbc was sorely lacking. When you have a carburetor on top then cubic inches are King. There is a reason why Mopar settled on the 440 for so many hi-perf applications. Fast forward to today. You can buy shiverlay parts at the local 7-11. Does that make them 'better' than something else? Some folks might opine that the sbc parts supply is huge just to keep them running... So the engine that you prefer is likely just that, your choice. I kinda like the new Hellcat engine, 707 hp in a crate! Swap that sucker into anything you like, but 40 years from now it may, or may not, be considered the engine of choice 'back in the day'....
    1 point
  8. Yesterday I cut the body loose from the chassis on my '53 Plymouth Suburban. The heads on the bolts were barely distinguishable so I cut the three from the front back with a cutting disc and used two new blades on my sawzall to reach into the frame from the rear to cut those two bolts. Eight bolts total. This body off is WORK and I'm no spring chicken! So looks like we both have a ways to go. I sure hope it will be worth it at the end!
    1 point
  9. I don't intend to waste time worrying about it. Most of us who would really care won't be around to see it happen. All in all the younger generation isn't nearly as interested in automobiles as we have been... unless they're somehow connected to a game controller.
    1 point
  10. Digging around in my '53 tonight I found a piece of paper under the rear bench seat. It is a Vehicle Registration for state of Massachusetts. Dated 1969. A 1953 Chrysler Sedan. Owner was Bert H. Webster of Bulkeley Road, Littleton Mass.01460. Registration fee was $6. I googled Bert to find his obituary, date 2009. He was born in 1929 and seems he lived most of his life in Littleton. He served 4 years in the Airforce during the Korean conflict. After his service, he worked as a truck driver his whole life. Pretty cool to find this...
    1 point
  11. Just a suggestion when you do remove the dash is to paint the rear of the dash a light colour, white or similar or if you intend to sand blast the whole dash then primer and paint the front then leave the primer on the rear as its near enough to white to make life easier when looking at the rear of the dash when upside down........lol...........its also worth wiring up a small light on the firewall facing the rear of the car thats wired ideally direct from the ignition and/or a power take off..............I haven't had any experience with a 48 Plymouth dash but apart from the various wires the only bolts & screws etc on my 1940 dash were the ones under the front screen garnish molding, a pair on either end of the dash at the cowl side and the steering column and dash/firewall brace..........don't think there were any more.........I left the instruments and chrome moldings attached to the dash and undid them once the dash was out of the car................dunno if this helps.................andyd
    1 point
  12. The tube washer assembly is pushed down and into the original factory type replacement upper rubber mounts. Replacement offshore mounts might be made different. Another pic of an assembled mount in my vise....The factory way these tube washer assemblies are sized/made prevents over compression of the rear mounts and also helps prevent engine noise and vibration issues. Too hard of rubber is a no no to on mounts.
    1 point
  13. This might or might not help.
    1 point
  14. Obviously the work of a hack, I will make a replacement panel with an access hole and a rubber plug imagine that
    1 point
  15. I’ve used thread sealant in such situations, without any adverse effects. I’ve also used anti-seize on bolts/studs going into aluminum—again with no adverse effects. When I’ve encountered “leakers” such as you have, and I tried to install bolts/studs without any “liquid assistance”, for me, anyway, it’s a guarantee for a “seeper”, or a major “leaker”.
    1 point
  16. If you do a search by parts number on the interweb,you can almost always buy brand new wheel cylinders for about the same price you would pay for a kit. Sometimes cheaper. New is ALWAYS better than rebuilt when it comes to wheel cylinders. Since it is so hard to find a old MC these days that hasn't already been honed a time or two,MY vote is to spend the bucks and buy a new one. Brake,tires,and suspension aren't areas where you want to cut corners. Buying a kit and doing it yourself is substantially cheaper than buying a new MC,though.
    1 point
  17. Risking "the jumping around, stay on topic" finger....just wanted to say that those of us in the central valley of California who regularly paint cars, know that the labels (almost all labels) say not to thin with a reducer.....its a clean air act deal, companies have to do this.....we thin our damn paints to get the right spray pattern etc.... Get the Hemi if its in the budget. Even if you never put it in a truck.....it will look great in your shop!!! 48D
    1 point
  18. Great video Keithb7......if you don't mind, I'll link it in the youtube comments with Merle's video. 48D
    1 point
  19. When I removed the hood on my car I asked my trusty dog where to store it. He said roof roof.
    1 point
  20. When you redo the brake lines have a look at changing the spot where the front brake hoses attach to the chassis as the stock setup is in front of the suspension which means that using it you will then have the brake hose passing around the moving suspension and steering parts........as the brake caliper is at the rear of the disc then the having the brake hose attaching to the chassis "behind" the axle centreline is a better arrangement....it may mean using a longer hose than the one you have at present but will be a safer installation....also I'd replace ALL the brake lines which originally would have been 1/4" with the smaller 3/16TH diameter used in modern braking systems........also a dual cicuit master cylinder is a wise choice......I have had 4 wheel discs on my 1940 Dodge since the mid 1970's and the old drum brakes don't compare.............regards, andyd
    1 point
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