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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/15/2017 in all areas

  1. I went out to start my truck today and it wouldn't start. So I opened the 2 sides of the hood and looked in. I looked at all tje wiring and fuel make sure everything thing was alright. Took the gas line off and got sprayed by gas. Put it back together. I made sure all the wiring was where I pit it and tight. So here is where I figured it out after 2 hrs of searching. I looked at distributor and took the top metel clip off and was going take of bottom clip. No bottom clip. I had forgotten the bottom clip. So make sure you don't rush through stuff. I did and cost me 2 hrs of time for a clip. Anyways that's all I have to say. Could happen to anyone I guess.
    3 points
  2. I will now pipe in with my standard reply......remove your cluster and other various items from the back of the dash, scuff the interior of the dash with scotch brite pad, tack clean, and paint with the brightest gloss white you can find. Reinstall said items. This will ensure the next time you are on your head under the dash that everything will be clearly illuminated by your lite of choice......you will congratulate yourself later on having such a brilliant idea.....lol.
    2 points
  3. 2 points
  4. I don't think tie rod bearings are what he was referring to (unless he corrected a typo before I read his post). He was referring to the main and rod bearings in the engine, which would make a lot more sense than replacing tie rod bearings for an engine oil pressure problem. :-)
    2 points
  5. when cutting heavier metal, a frame section for instance I will again use the right angle grinder but in this case, I score the marked lined for the cut...then use my Milwaukee sawsall and thin bi-metal blade. The blade follows the scored line like a slot car. I refrain at all times of using the gas axe...I use a pneumatic shear at times especially cutting a panel for running through the bead roller
    2 points
  6. wow, I am sold. I took off the fan shroud on my B3HH and instead of having the thin sheet metal blasted I tried the "vinegar bath" for it. Before after
    1 point
  7. When my dog saw my first coat of paint he said ruff ruff.
    1 point
  8. you can rebuild the light socket with new like i did. houseing origninal with new electricals.
    1 point
  9. Yes! That's another brilliant idea! Definitely doing this. Greg
    1 point
  10. I am using this wire wrap. Believe I bought it from McMaster Carr.
    1 point
  11. I had this problem on back of truck so bought new taillights and ripped all wiring out of back end and rewired. Took like 4hrs and now have working tail and brake lights
    1 point
  12. The Hammertone silver looks good on these engines
    1 point
  13. To make mine easier you can get the small nuts with a captive star washer built in.
    1 point
  14. I've been wrapping wires with regular, cheap black plastic electrician's tape, only to have a gummy mess later, when I have to undo some of it. Cheap adhesive on cheap tape. The existing wires were wrapped with a plastic tape without adhesive, with the ends tucked under the previous lap. Friction tape - hmm. Or maybe someone has found a premium electrician's tape that doesn't get gummy. (Do electricians have wire nuts? They would look at you funny if you ask.)
    1 point
  15. Nice job! Fond memories of rewiring my P-15. Musta gone through coupla hundred zip ties re thinking, rerouting and reconnecting. Pretty pleased with the results. A piece of advice that a very capable techie/friend lectured me on was,..."lotsa grounds",...."solid grounds".
    1 point
  16. Copy. Thanks Frank. I serviced all fluids except the Fluid Drive since it works great.
    1 point
  17. Tail Light stops working. Brake light never worked. Thought I'd unscrew the lens and take a look at the bulb - it looks fine and then I drop it onto the garage floor. Oh crap, now it's broken. Buy a new bulb, it won't seat. Look at the socket, one of the wire ends has disappeared. The socket contact plate is stuck. Try to take off the can to get better access to the socket and wires, nuts only come off so far before they endlessly spin and now I have a dangling tail light and license plate. Bend the metal plate to get the bolts out and now it hangs by its wires, and I find the light socket is pressed in. What to do? If I buy a DCM replacement it won't be original any longer. Drive to the salvage yard and arive at 3:55pm. They close at 4 so kick me out. This shouldn't be so hard. Changing a bulb is kicking my a$$!
    1 point
  18. Frankie, I love it....and to add a bit and hopefully not make anyone angry as I am not pointing a finger in any direction whatsoever but I would like to add that after seeing some projects built with brick still "look like a pile of bricks"
    1 point
  19. You are being fussy....lol....everything on your car is basic, these cars are as simple as the day they were built....sometimes a pile of brick is just a pile of bricks.
    1 point
  20. When you say your transmission is noisy, I assume you mean some kind of noise other than the usual gear whine that's normally present in a non-synchro tranny? Non-synchro tranny's are known for being very noisy (loud whine) in all gears except direct drive (which is likely 4th gear in your truck). That noise is just a by-product of their design, which uses straight-cut spur gears and is perfectly normal. Or do you mean a different kind of noise, such as bearing noise? Also, if your non-synchro tranny is anything like mine, I doubt you have any brass or bronze materials in there, so GL4/GL5 lube should be just fine. Or you could take Tim's suggestion and use the Amsoil diesel engine oil that he recommends. I may do that in mine when I fill it (it's currently out of the truck with fluid drained because I'm rebuilding the engine).
    1 point
  21. little off in the above statement, the wearing of the bearing as you later states thins, BUT, bearing showing wear the holes do not enlarge, the metal is worn so that the clearance between the bearing and crank is greater and thus has less resistance to flow and there a decrease in oil pressure
    1 point
  22. I love the dash in these cars, art deco at its finest..............andyd
    1 point
  23. Finally got a chance to take some interior pictures.
    1 point
  24. Rod and main bearings have oil holes in them for lubrication. When the bearings wear out, the oil passages get slightly larger and the oil pressure drops. Low oil pressure is a good indicator your bearings are getting thin. And for that reason alone, if I had a good running engine, I might spend a weekend dropping the pan and checking the bearings. Before one goes out and scores the crank and causes more damage. Of course I would want to exhaust all other avenues of repair first .... like asking on the p15-d-24 forum
    1 point
  25. That is a very nice V8.
    1 point
  26. First thing I would do is change the oil with some SAE30 or 10w40 and see what it does. Do the easy stuff first
    1 point
  27. Traveler 85-140 from Tractor Supply. Been using it for many many years.
    1 point
  28. Hate it. Why run something that every other hotrod has when there is access to a running HEMI? Kind of like following the herd of sheep over the cliff... Don't know why someone wouldn't drive a HEMI? They are not feeble in fact they are very robust. Best of all they are NOT a small block Chevy.
    1 point
  29. personally I'd have them relined...you don't want the old "glue" to let loose on you on the road, and NOW is the time to do it vs. later....my $0.02
    1 point
  30. Sadly,it still sits on my shop floor,stuck and temporarily abandoned . Other stuff came up that had to be done NOW,and it just got abandoned until I have time to fool with it. Next time I mess with it,I will have the heads back on it,and will be using 150 or so lbs of air pressure to "push" the Kroil past the rings.
    1 point
  31. visual aid added I have taken apart a few of these hoods.....and found some times you might also have to trim back the back edge of the sheet metal skin as well
    1 point
  32. I haven't posted a whole lot lately probably because I'm out enjoying the truck! Here's a couple videos from driving back from a cruise night (about 1.25 hours away from my house). When I left the house the weather was perfect. I got to the show and it started raining, and it rained the entire drive home. My windshield leaks pretty bad, so Saturday it has an appointment with a local shop to seal it better. I've also been playing with the speedometer. It seems to catch around 40 mph until around 50. It also bounces a lot. Last night I changed the cable and it acted different all together (not in a good way). I sent it out to have the mechanical parts checked out when I restored the truck, but it still isn't right so it will be heading back to them. Kevin did the gauge faces and the speedometer face. It still looks great and is holding up perfect! Its been few years since he did it now I think. I couldn't be happier with how they look! Out of curiosity last night, I swapped in a very nice original speedometer that I bought for $15 at a swap meet. The swap meet speedometer works perfect. Its smooth, doesn't bounce, and is accurate (minus the rear end ratio difference). Maybe I can make one good out of the both? Anyway, here are somewhat boring videos. P.S. - I'm really happy with the radio setup in the truck, it sounds great and works perfect!
    1 point
  33. Wow, it has been a while since I posted on this thread!! I have another experience to share about my truck, and it's a lesson learned! Since I completed the truck, I have noticed a bad engine vibration around 1,700 RPM. It would rattle your brains out at that RMP. The hood would shake bad, every panel that could make a noise would, and the brake and clutch pedals would shake. I always tried to avoid running it around there by staying above or below it. I haven't been driving the truck as much as I'd like due to fear of damage to the engine. Over the winter I decided I was going to figure this out! I already looked into it before, and eliminated it to the engine. I pulled the trans out and ran it, and then the clutch and still had the shake. On Monday I started calling around and found an engine shop about an hour from me who could balance the flywheel and clutch. I talked to him a while about the vibration, and he told me to bring the flywheel and clutch down to him. He told me he could do it in roughly an hour, and I could even do it during later in the evening. I left work on Tuesday, picked up my wife and we got to his shop around 6:50 pm. I dropped off the parts, and my wife and I went out for dinner. When we got back, he came out and told me the status of my parts. He told me a fairly notable vibration can be felt with 30 grams of unbalance, and my flywheel was running over 50 grams out. Mine also was running 25 thousandths out causing a wobble. He said it looked like it was dropped at one point and it was one of the worst ones he has done. He took a lot of material off to get it running true, and he was able to get it within a gram (which is a race engine spec). Then he threw the pressure plate on with it, and it was running 30 grams out of balance as well. To boot, the weight was nearly at the same position as the flywheel with how I took it off based on my punch marks, so I had a total of 80 plus grams of unbalance. He worked on it until 9:15pm while we waited. I couldn't believe how helpful, flexible, and reasonable he was. I walk out spending $128 and only had to make the drive once. Last night I put it back together, and it is vibration free. The truck is by far the smoothest running flathead we have. I'm sure you could stand a nickel on edge on the head at any RPM. So if any of you are doing a clutch job, major engine work, or if you have an engine vibration. Don't overlook the flywheel and clutch!
    1 point
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