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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/14/2017 in all areas

  1. ....wow.....not something I see on many Mopar related sites very often...... Why, exactly, would a shiverlay be more 'period correct' than a same year Hemi? Some sorta time-warp at the local bone yard in 1960? And, I have never heard of anyone that would be 'bothered ' if they had a Hemi to drive....must be something in the water up there. Least desirable? I actually see more traffic for DeSotos than for the 315-325 Dodge and about the same for the 241-270 Dodge. Yes, some DeSoto parts are difficult to fine, specifically the intake, but all else is very little different than for a Chrysler engine. As far as cost, the EarlyHemi is on par with Nailheads, Flatheads, Olds and Cad for rebuilds....none are cheap.
    2 points
  2. Risking "the jumping around, stay on topic" finger....just wanted to say that those of us in the central valley of California who regularly paint cars, know that the labels (almost all labels) say not to thin with a reducer.....its a clean air act deal, companies have to do this.....we thin our damn paints to get the right spray pattern etc.... Get the Hemi if its in the budget. Even if you never put it in a truck.....it will look great in your shop!!! 48D
    2 points
  3. DJ..........haven't had a picnic on the beach in years, too much sand but this year i decided that we is gunna have a Turducken so have ordered one from the local butcher, it comes as a small turkey stuffed with a chicken stuffed with 4 duck breasts & seasoning, the turkey & chicken are deboned so it should carve o/k........she who must be obeyed didn't want to have anything to do with cooking it so it ill be my job, hopefully on a cool Xmas day.............lol............we generally have a cold Xmas lunch as nobody likes to cook in mid 30 degree temps...its 31C here already at 11am & will probably hit mid 30's again, so as the Turducken was my idea then I'm the cook........lol......supposedly as it will be about 4kg in total it should be about 4hrs in the oven ............what brought you to Oz 30yrs ago?.......I thought I saw a tall Yank around the place back then!..........lol..........andyd.
    2 points
  4. I think we've all been there! When I restored my truck, my dad warned me to label everything as I took it off. I thought I'd remember it all. I did label some things, and others I thought would be to easy to forget. I was dead wrong! I also thought pictures would be the answer to everything. I THOUGHT I took a picture of everything, but I clearly didn't take enough. Well, once again, my dad was right lol. I hate when that happens! (I later learned he did the same thing on his 41 Desoto when he was in his early 20s)
    1 point
  5. Thanks. That looks like a plan. I very stupidly removed a lot of bolts seven years ago when I got the car, thinking that as I was working on it, I'd remember where they went. Some I did label but others not. I've been pouring through the parts book trying to identify them. It seems that as I am putting things back onto the car, I am finding the right fasteners. It sure would make working on the engine a lot easier!
    1 point
  6. personally I'd have them relined...you don't want the old "glue" to let loose on you on the road, and NOW is the time to do it vs. later....my $0.02
    1 point
  7. The VW part number you are looking for is 311-941-581 C Relay, Headlamp, 6V, All Models -67 https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-6V-Headlight-Dimmer-Relay-Hella-311-941-581C/112589845727?hash=item1a36e0b4df:g:Ql4AAOSw~jpZ1bH-&vxp=mtr
    1 point
  8. And if you are looking for a basic knowledge type manual you can't beat the Motors Manuals for the year you own. Explains things much more simply that then factory manual does. Complements the Factory manual, not replaces it.
    1 point
  9. My shop floor looked like a 1920's Oklahoma dust storm hit it when I sanded mine. Took me 2 days with the door open and a leaf blower to get most of it out.
    1 point
  10. Ward, Sorry but I no longer have the car so I can't provide a part number. I think you can find them on eBay or from air cooled VW parts suppliers. Just search 6 volt VW headlight relay. Jim Yergin
    1 point
  11. just make sure that you measure and record so to match the pinion angle of your existing axle to spring perches when installing the perches to the correct position on the donor axle...
    1 point
  12. I use the NAPA1080 filter in my B3B and it fits in the canister fine. Your canister may be different than mine however.
    1 point
  13. It's not hitting anything - I jacked it up & crawled under there to have a look. It vibrates so much, you can see it - like when Bugs Bunny runs into a closed door...
    1 point
  14. What is the fascination with high rpm? After a certain point you are fighting piston speed and more frictional losses than can be overcome in long stroke design. Any thing ever 3800 for a street vehicle is more about testosterone than technology.
    1 point
  15. I don’t agree at all, most people looking to get into the game now want upgrades, better braking and steering and more reliable power train, the customer base of people want all period correct in these Trucks fades a little more every year. If it’s nostalgia then you likely had or was in one when you were young...that part is changing as those generations are now to the age of selling, not buying. Buy the engine, do the swap if it’s what YOU want...if you build the truck for the next guy, then why build it at all, find a project you want, and make it your own, or you’re likely to never really enjoy it.
    1 point
  16. In 1996 up through 2007 I purchased a ton or more of parts from Russ at Moores in Rapid City. In 2007 I purchased a '49 Olds 88 2dr from them. In the late fall of 2007 Russ let me park my large RV within their facility, locking us in for the night, it was like spending the night in a candy store. When morning came I had a large pile of Mopar and Olds parts stacked up next to my RV, I asked Russ how much I owned him, paid the price, loaded up and headed for Montana. I think it has been over a year since I have tried to contact Moores for parts. I do know that they got rid of all of their GM cars and parts, they traded them to a guy for all of his Mopar stuff. I also know that the majority of the '30/40 DCPD parts they had were getting pretty thin, having been picked through many times. Wm
    1 point
  17. No,but I am thinking the best place for YOU to look would be the same supplier that sold you the disc brake conversion. They are bound to offer a dual-outlet MC that meets your needs. I know you should be able to "mix and match" this stuff from one supplier to the next,but found out a long time ago that this stuff always seems to work out better if you get all the components you need for any part of your system from the same supplier.
    1 point
  18. Why are you worried about cutting the brake lines when you know you will be replacing them anyhow? As for the master cylinder,if it were me,I would replace it with a brand new double outlet non-power master cylinder. I know there are kits made to bolt one into place where your original master cylinder was. Chances are it won't even cost very much more than a new single outlet MC. As for the gas tank,unless you can find a sealer to use on the inside that is guaranteed to be immune to ethanol,it's cheaper and better to just buy a new Tank,inc gas tank and be done with it. I have had zero luck in the past with tank sealer and ethanol on two cars and one harley,and changing gas tanks,blowing out lines,and rebuilding carbs is a major pain in the butt. Do it once and be done with it.
    1 point
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