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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/12/2017 in all areas

  1. Got the engine off the mounts and now I can remove the ugly red paint someone put on it and get it silver again! But first the front axle and springs are coming off to be cleaned and painted. Already did the rear and the transmission. Then clean and paint the frame. Getting closer to reassemble time!!
    3 points
  2. CAN OF WORMS.....lets open it up or at minimum kick the contents a bit...its not just engines that make the vehicle and define its category. People are very funny when they say they have an original car but yet when you look close, the changes start jumping every which way like popping corn with the lid off the pot. Small things, added gauges, tachometer, power this and that, stereo etc..paint instead of wood grain, wrong interior much less wrong fabric. Then you look and see things like the brakes are now modern, shocks relocated, maybe upgraded steering and worse case scenario, brand x engine. And, while the engine may be the flathead inline six it has been changed to such a degree it can no longer fit stock requirement if its very life depended on it, dual carbs, dual exhaust, most obvious distributor upgrade, alternator hanging off the side, aluminum radiator long before we start looking at aftermarket finned heads, valve chamber covers beehive this and that. Not a thing wrong with anything I have pointed out so far except to say these vehicles fit the gray area but yet the owners are calling them restored....poppycock, they perpetuating a lie, restored they are not, they are modified and mostly for safety or economy, some for show and some for go. Even if not modified for performance they would still best be referred to as a personalized vehicle (term I use to refer to my upgraded cars). These changes suited their needs or build taste or at least tickled their fancy if they bought them in this condition or worse than that, they bought it after being told by a guy in the shadows it was all stock. There is room for all of them, well maybe for all but those that went brand X engine or downright ratrod.....just, call them by the right name. And Tim be careful who you race to the candy store, they may win, they may have been talking about the store in the opposite direction of your burnt rubber marks and opening lights in the distance. A race begins with GO...but your reflexes have you smoking tires as the guy finishes the sentence with, "to the corner and make a right". Again, properly define the parameters....
    2 points
  3. This subject came up in another thread but it got me to thinking this deserves its own thread. Over the years we have lost several forum members. Three come to my mind but I am sure there are others. Feel free to add the names of any you recall. Norms Coupe aka driveway Norm tops the list. Norm and I did a lot of bantering over the years but he was a very good friend and I sure miss his postings. Norman Baker is another. He really enjoyed his P-15. John Burke. John built his flathead powered hot rod from the ground up.
    1 point
  4. wow, I am sold. I took off the fan shroud on my B3HH and instead of having the thin sheet metal blasted I tried the "vinegar bath" for it. Before after
    1 point
  5. Here are some YouTube videos of the 50 Coronet running and driving. Got it buttoned up Sunday. Now it's time to start the rewire. Greg Coronet first drive Coronet engine start.
    1 point
  6. The true purpose of the tube is not general engine cooling. It is designed to direct coolant upwards to assure proper flow to the valve seat area. The slots in the top of the tube are shaped to provide that flow and the taper helps the rear slots provide the same volume as the fronts get. Use your IR sensor to check the area of the block above the valve chamber covers and see what that tells you. If your tube isn't blocked with rust or scale and the top slots are intact, it likely doesn't need messing with. It is critically important for the exhausts valves as they only get cooled when closed and seated, the intake valves get cooled when opened by the incoming fuel air charge. Exhaust valves work under much harsher conditions which is why Chrysler decided to provide hardened seats, and lesser brands did not. Conspicuous through its absence is any semblance of a similar device in the Ford engine. They have a hole, but no tube.
    1 point
  7. The edmunds head never had helicoils so you can pretty much be assured the threads were getting corroded. It shouldnt have an effect one way or another. You will likely need spark plugs with a slightly longer reach. I used Bosch Platinums wp8 and 2 washers on mine. On Cams as others have pointed out you dont need a cam with the head, but certainly if the bearings are good in the bottom end it will wake things up. Id discuss that with George Asche. I believe currently the cost for him to rebuild your carb(s) with full kits is $195. Even if your two carbs are not identical when he ships a pair back to you they are identical. If you dont have linkage then I would ship the carbs and intake to George as he will then build the carbs on the intake as well as the linkage and have everything adjusted for you. Id also highly recommend sending your stock exhaust and making them into Headers. Its more cost effective than buying fentons and in my opinion, looks nicer. Unlike some, my opinion is splitting the exhaust is the greatest single improvement you can make on the engine. Stock you have way to much backpressure in the front of the engine. George's number is 814-354-2621.
    1 point
  8. Took me all day (it was my first try at balancing a rotating assembly) but am happy with the final result. I started with the crankshaft alone and got that to about .2 g front and back. Added the flywheel and did the same. Added the front pulley and ended up at .7 g and .1 g front to back. Installed the clutch which needed 30 g of weight added. My final numbers were. 07 g out at front and .01 g at the back. Definitely better than what that little engine was running on in the past I'm sure. A great day of learning!!!
    1 point
  9. I once forgot to install a torque converter and only realized after the car was on the ground. I was so happy with how well the job went until I walked into the shop, and there it was, sitting on the bench. Dohh!! Greg
    1 point
  10. This guy is stealing my patent...LOL...I'm gonna claim to be #1 with the Cherokee MC...I've gotta have some kinda rep here..LOL I think it's the best fit myself, I looked at a lot at the wrecking yard before I decided on it...removed it and it measured up pretty well.
    1 point
  11. I think we all can agree that we hope Pilothouse trucks fetching $50K becomes the norm.
    1 point
  12. The guys who are building period correct vehicles are harder to spot because they buy small parts and build each section up little by little. A guy like me who throws in a race motor and graphs in a later model front end or whatnot is hard to miss. I love both worlds, that's why I save every part. I do that because its part of the hobby to me, share a lot, live and let live etc etc. But if Jim Shepard lines up against me on the way to the store.....with his perfectly build L6 and shiny paint.....I'll eat him alive with my race prepped V8.... my racing googles and long white scarf ......yah, we'll see who gets to the soda shop first! In the 10 years of Pilothouse Trucks shows I've put on.....There are way more factory L6 engines showing up than upgraded or modified engines. 48D
    1 point
  13. I'll tell ya, though - after driving a Model A for 3.5 yrs., the Dodge is like sitting in the library. When you start hearing a noise in the Dodge, you think, "something must be wrong...", when you stop hearing noises in the Ford, you think, "something must be wrong..."
    1 point
  14. Mark did a post with good photos a while back. Hope the link works...
    1 point
  15. it is a known fact that a person buying an older car that wants the modern features integrated into it will pay for such integration while on the other hand the guy looking for an original example of the vehicle when new will ALSO pay for the originality of the vehicle. It is the gray areas in between and signs of less than professional application of either that will create a disturbance in the buying arena...both application can often be mutually priced based solely on level of finish.
    1 point
  16. Well, I did some further testing of both the new and old relays and found out the new one had a closed circuit and was causing the clicking every time I connected the Batt cable. I put the old one back one and it seems to work OK! I then took it for a test drive and would hear a clicking once in a while, so I pushed in the kickdown switch and that was the same click, so I believe the new kickdown switch is bad. I put in my old kickdown switch in and now no clicking. I have contacted George Asche several times and he now suggests to bypass the Governor circuit all together and use a ground switch to activate the solenoid at speed like the governor would normally do and see it shifts into overdrive. I hope to get this done later today. We'll See!
    1 point
  17. Hugh Forrest, Do you recommend that I send my intake and carburators off to Ashe and let him do his thing on them along with steeing up the linkage? What carburators did you end up with? Is the extra money worth it for headers versus my friend adding another outlet and block-off plate to my stock manifold? Thanks, Carl
    1 point
  18. You talk like an Aussie mate. I reckon you'll be wanting to throw a shrimp on the Tim's barby next April I was playing around with Desoto and Fargo hood emblems as I have a friend who works at a foundry. Those are a little rarer than the Dodge hood emblems here in Oz, so I thought I would look into having a supply made. I'm still waiting on my Chromer to tell me how much they will end up when finished, but I expect that they will be too pricey as chroming is not cheap here - DCM has the Dodge hood emblems listed at $52.50 there in USA so maybe I need to send him some good samples and he could forward them to his supplier for manufacture? We did a couple of samples (see photo). The casting metal they use comes out gold-colored, but they should look quite close to the original ones when chromed. I was messing around with some of my gas tanks at the shed. I already have tanks repaired for the 52 and the 53 trucks, but I still need one fixed for the 55. I have a friend who said that he could repair them, so I was looking at having them repaired (if the price works out ok) and I might sell a few of them off. They are quite hard to get here in Oz and I suspect that they will fetch a good price once repaired. Wifey keeps telling me that I spend too much on my trucks so I need to sell off some parts to recoup some outgoings. My friend (Kenny) who is looking to repair the tanks was thinking of widening one of them for his V8 Dodge truck as the extra gas capacity would be good for him out west there. I must check back with him to see how he's getting on.
    1 point
  19. His guesstimate Includes cost of newer engine, rebuild, and goodies. His accuracy is questionable. But like my aunt said, " Money is kinda like manure, you got to spread it around once in a while for it to do any good. " Point is to enjoy the hobby. Good luck with your project and enjoy.
    1 point
  20. I wanted to wish everyone a Merry Christmas snd introduce Ol Rufus
    1 point
  21. Pictured is a mock up of a log manifold I was setting up a few years back.
    1 point
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