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Here are some YouTube videos of the 50 Coronet running and driving. Got it buttoned up Sunday. Now it's time to start the rewire. Greg Coronet first drive Coronet engine start.

it is a known fact that a person buying an older car that wants the modern features integrated into it will pay for such integration while on the other hand the guy looking for an original example of the vehicle when new will ALSO pay for the originality of the vehicle. It is the gray areas in between and signs of less than professional application of either that will create a disturbance in the buying arena...both application can often be mutually priced based solely on level of finish.

Got the engine off the mounts and now I can remove the ugly red paint someone put on it and get it silver again! But first the front axle and springs are coming off to be cleaned and painted. Already did the rear and the transmission. Then clean and paint the frame. Getting closer to reassemble time!!

The Wix/Napa 51011 Sock filter is currently off shore made and is almost impossible to fit Some canisters. The Baldwin JC405 Sock filter is a better fit. The 51080 can be used but was never designed to be used in Sock type canisters. Tom

CAN OF WORMS.....lets open it up or at minimum kick the contents a bit...its not just engines that make the vehicle and define its category. People are very funny when they say they have an original car but yet when you look close, the changes start jumping every which way like popping corn with the lid off the pot. Small things, added gauges, tachometer, power this and that, stereo etc..paint instead of wood grain, wrong interior much less wrong fabric. Then you look and see things like the brakes are now modern, shocks relocated, maybe upgraded steering and worse case scenario, brand x engine. And, while the engine may be the flathead inline six it has been changed to such a degree it can no longer fit stock requirement if its very life depended on it, dual carbs, dual exhaust, most obvious distributor upgrade, alternator hanging off the side, aluminum radiator long before we start looking at aftermarket finned heads, valve chamber covers beehive this and that. Not a thing wrong with anything I have pointed out so far except to say these vehicles fit the gray area but yet the owners are calling them restored....poppycock, they perpetuating a lie, restored they are not, they are modified and mostly for safety or economy, some for show and some for go. Even if not modified for performance they would still best be referred to as a personalized vehicle (term I use to refer to my upgraded cars). These changes suited their needs or build taste or at least tickled their fancy if they bought them in this condition or worse than that, they bought it after being told by a guy in the shadows it was all stock. There is room for all of them, well maybe for all but those that went brand X engine or downright ratrod.....just, call them by the right name. And Tim be careful who you race to the candy store, they may win, they may have been talking about the store in the opposite direction of your burnt rubber marks and opening lights in the distance. A race begins with GO...but your reflexes have you smoking tires as the guy finishes the sentence with, "to the corner and make a right". Again, properly define the parameters....

The guys who are building period correct vehicles are harder to spot because they buy small parts and build each section up little by little. A guy like me who throws in a race motor and graphs in a later model front end or whatnot is hard to miss. I love both worlds, that's why I save every part. I do that because its part of the hobby to me, share a lot, live and let live etc etc. But if Jim Shepard lines up against me on the way to the store.....with his perfectly build L6 and shiny paint.....I'll eat him alive with my race prepped V8.... my racing googles and long white scarf ......yah, we'll see who gets to the soda shop first! In the 10 years of Pilothouse Trucks shows I've put on.....There are way more factory L6 engines showing up than upgraded or modified engines. 48D

Thanks for thinking of me Keith, and awesome picture btw. I like the looks of it. Surely its just a lawn ornament now, but I guess that's better than the scrap heap. I'd haul that sucker home and get it running! Fellas, turns out that I made the right decision putting the Meadowbrook away the other day. Although we didn't get hardly any snow at all, the County decided it would be a good idea to sand AND salt the roads. I don't want any of that mess splattering up underneath my car. Its already rusty enough.

I was out cruising some backroads recently not too far from home. I found this house number holder. It made me think of you Worden18. 3303 of Shuswap Road. Not a Meadowbrook, but has similar lines. This is the Plymouth Cranbrook. I am unsure of the year. Maybe someone can tell us what year it is.

I don’t agree at all, most people looking to get into the game now want upgrades, better braking and steering and more reliable power train, the customer base of people want all period correct in these Trucks fades a little more every year. If it’s nostalgia then you likely had or was in one when you were young...that part is changing as those generations are now to the age of selling, not buying. Buy the engine, do the swap if it’s what YOU want...if you build the truck for the next guy, then why build it at all, find a project you want, and make it your own, or you’re likely to never really enjoy it.

Yes......at my house...you know, for safe keeping....against ,elves i guess. 48D

No, mine was a 1 ton, and I basically converted it to a 1/2 ton before the swap. I don't think you will find any rack strong enough for that truck. If it's was me, I would look into a bigger truck power steering box, but the worst part is, finding one that is rear steer.

your desoto is or was rust wise , virtually identical to my 48 dodge , same body. my floor is maybe a bit better. worse in some areas.. like fenders. got brave enough to start at the body work last night last night. lucky for me most will be hidden, and at least for now all we are aiming for is solid and drive-able. side panels of an international combine are my metal source endless supply the whole combine . they are thicker , with my welding,, probably need it. got the right rear inner fender and door post almost done . it went better than i thought it would. those panels have some good breaks and bends , quite useful. looks like you are doing great work. if mine is half as good , i will be happy

Hump outward....use a large flat heavy driver and carefully slightly flatten the hump. Clean the plug seating area well and use sealer like permatex # 1 or I use JB weld.