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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/10/2017 in all areas

  1. While a pre oil pump or sump design is certainly an improvement, its over kill and definitely not anything your going to need. On pistons, again, for what your talking its over kill. Cast pistons with 4 rings are more than capable of running a couple of hundred thousand miles. Now in terms of original pistons and rings, well right off the bat it depends on what engine your talking about. There were forged pistons and cast pistons, as well as chrome rings and cast rings used over the decades in flathead mopars. But for a discussion on which is better, original 1930-1959 technology verses modern forged pistons and modern rings well there is little question which is better. We use custom pistons are rings all the time. The biggest issue is simple.. They are expensive. But in my 1949 Plymouth or our dragster, they are Venola Top Fuel Pistons, coated with plasma moly rings. They are smaller, lighter, stronger and.... expensive. I will attach a picture of a modern forged piston sitting beside an OEM 265 ci piston from 1954. The last 6 pictures are the pistons we had custom made for the 1933 Plymouth race car, and as you can see the rings are super thin. But back to your engine your describing, you dont need that. You should be able to do a rebuild with decent cast pistons, decent bearings etc and never have to rebuild it again. Even if you want to bore it out a bunch, regrind the cam to some mild custom grind, deck the block, shave the head etc, you dont need pre-oil pump and custom pistons. But then, lol, there is lots I dont really need but I have anyways, so by all means fill your boots.
    2 points
  2. I'll stick to stock pistons and a pre-oiler, do the cam bearing thing, and have the engine balanced. Didn't want to stir stuff up. I would think what people want to do with their engines would be based on available time, funds and usage. I like to overdo stuff but have to step back and really think (after hearing other opinions).
    1 point
  3. My color chart has the lighter green as: "WINDWARD GREEN"
    1 point
  4. Look at the 3rd pic. Replacing the horn emblem (already bought). PO left his kid in there back in the 60s. Must have seen how to use the cigarette lighter. Would have worn his a..s out.
    1 point
  5. This is a pic from the rear of my 50 Ply wagon. We put an Heidts independent rear in. My buddy Tim who is a fabricator by trade and has 30 years experience building hot rods and race cars did the install. Car rides like a new Caddy.
    1 point
  6. Look on Ebay, under marine tach. I use one with a white face, works good....
    1 point
  7. https://photos.app.goo.gl/Z3hFeUyVrVmAXC7D2 Here is my vintage tach I had modified for the car $$$$$ 6 volt positive ground, with electronic internals now instead of the transmitter box with a battery.
    1 point
  8. Just buy motor mounts for putting Chevy V8 into a Jeep CJ, very easy.
    1 point
  9. Joe, I would pull the plugs and put oil in the cylinders,using a hose to get the oil onto the Pistons. Just because engine turns now doesn't mean it will in two years when you start on it.
    1 point
  10. Well I guess you are a bit misinformed John, not sure why you assume AoK doesn't built engines, really? At any rate, George is most likely the most knowledgeable man alive today, that is an expert on these engines, how to build these engines for performance etc, how many of these engines have you built John? Don't be making totally uninformed statements like these engines only rev to 3500 rpm tops, what a fallacy. Okay here is my bone stock, tired 228 engine, dual carbs and exhaust, spinning up to 4000 rpm, like nothing. BTW I was in 3rd gear doing damn near 60 mph ( my speedo reads 10mph slow) before shifting into 4th gear direct drive. So you and, I 'm guessing possibly Don ( he likes your posts and recall him stating over 3500 RPM is not attainable on a nearly stock engine) making statements of not revving to over 3500 very easily in a stock or near stock engine does not cut it. These engines in a factory setting were run at 3600 RPM on a load for 50 hours of testing, do you or anyone else think that's just marketing hype? Okay here are 3 modified engines, 1 extremely modified and 2 fairly radical too. Note the race engine blipping to 5000 RPM without a load, this engine would most likely hit over 6000 RPM. Many tractor pulling 265 engines will bang up to over 5000 rpm for the pull event. In this world there are a few Chrysler flathead experts, on building engines, and designing and building speed parts, Tim Kingsbury and George Asche Jr happend to be 2 of these people, George has been building these engines since 1949, he might be the most experienced and knowledgable builder of these engines in the entire world. On this forum, we have some real knowledgeable engine builders too, Dpollo is another such individual, has built many of these engines, and has been at it for 50 years. I scratch my head often on some of the conjecture that is spread out on this forum and wonder why this still persists....
    1 point
  11. The best way to improve oiling, in my opinion, is to enlarge the groove (annulus) in the main bearing shells. Keep in mind that it does reduce the bearing area. To do this, on a lathe, the shells can be held in a fixture made of two discarded center main caps fastened to a face plate or held in a four jaw chuck. Then reach in with a boring bar or similar tool. Some 217 - 230 main sets do not have a groove on the lower shells. I have always installed grooved shells on the bottom halves even though bearing sets are pretty costly to break up.
    1 point
  12. having seen this stuff used, seem similar approach from factory, seen what a small crack or void will do as in letting water in including the condensation and sweating action of heat and cool cycles...I do not ever recommend a substrate that will be totally sealed to the surface. It is generally greatly accepted and practiced to seal the seams and such with a sealer but I respectfully disagree with this form of barrier. I do agree with breathable padding like the jute but then again it also will absorb moisture but sweat is usually not an issue, only direct contact with a source of water be it washing rain with glass down or other such voids in the body that will allow water to enter. Many cars sealed with a total covering will in time crack with age and the rot will be such that you do not even know it is happening till your foot (maybe your butt), goes through the floor pan... I put in sound dampening and insulation but cut and placed as a lay in and able to remove easily should I need to inspect clean and such of the pan.
    1 point
  13. I used a new Oz made tacho by a company called Speco and especially liked the nice chromed housing, from memory it was about 2&1/2" diameter........Varoom!!................lol...........andyd
    1 point
  14. clay: if you have the dual heater then there would have been two metal pipes that will direct the water to the two heaters. There is a metal connector that screws into the bypass connection for the metal lines. Some have made the new lines from electricl conduit and used a flare fitting with the crushable fitting to make the connections. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com
    1 point
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