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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/06/2017 in all areas

  1. 3 points
  2. I decided to go ahead and install the Model 36 heater today, after a 40 mile ride with much improved brakes!
    2 points
  3. I used to strip about 1/2" of the plug insulation etc off so that I had a piece of the silicon core wire and folded it back over the end then pushed the clip into the end of the plug lead and wire then use a pair of pliers to press the sides of the clip into the lead...........does this make sense, also go thru all the clips and make sure the little spikes that are on each side are straight and will hold into the plug lead sides............andyd
    1 point
  4. Patrick, as for finding an engine obviously there is the US but freight costs will be an issue...............have you thought about checking the UK and Europe in general looking for a light truck engine from a Fargo or possibly Dodge, also check farm implement, fork lift & the like, when I had the 41 Plymouth with its 201 engine I wanted to install a 230 which are not common here in Oz and ended up finding a 230 which was an Industrial engine from a Sydney airport tug.............regarding the steering box do you have to use a 1933 LHD box?, or can you substitute a later LHD box and adapt the column if it has to be used to the later box...........the USA/Canada would be the place to find a LHD 1933 box, trouble is tho' that early steering boxes will generally need rebuilding and worm & rollers are hard to find............regards, andyd
    1 point
  5. I made a few calls and neither of those numbers are right. I finally found the right number using a flashlight, camera and zoom. Wow that writing is hard to see. The right number is C6J1 and it's the correct carb for a 1938. I'm really hoping Napa can get a kit for me quickly.
    1 point
  6. a caliper is used in conjunction with the snap gauges...while a caliper by itself will correctly read an OD it is not quite dead on for ID the smaller the bore the greater your variance
    1 point
  7. It's a long story. I brought home a souvenir.
    1 point
  8. You're making some nice progress there! That's one hell of a good lookin' motor. I love the simplicity of the block design.
    1 point
  9. According to a couple sources you engine is a 201 with about 5 to 1 compression ratio. If you can't find a 251/265, a later 230 would be a good choice. I would build it as close to stock as possible for reliability. I have a 56 230 engine in my 46. The factory rated this engine at 125 HP at the flywheel. Mine is bored .030 over, stock cam, dual carbs, and .040 milled from the head, and .010 off the block. This gives me just under 8 to 1 compression which runs fine on 87 octain. But the point of carrying octain booster is valid even at that level. Engine rotating parts were balanced, fly wheel lightened, I run two inch inside diameter single exhaust through a dynomax turbo flow muffler. This setup puts 127 HP to the rear wheels at 3280 rpm which gives me 100 kph road speed through a 4.1 to 1 rear end. For simplicity on the road, I might go with a single 2 bbl carb rather than the dual set up. I have nearly 40,000 miles on his set up with no issues. Probably half of those miles on trips of 700 miles or more. My car was used by a fellow for his job as a farm equipment manufacturers representative. He used the car to visit farms in central Pennsylvania, after WW II. So much of its live wason dirt and gravel roads. When I got the car it had some interesting equipment added. The oil pan still retains a 1/4 inch thick plate rock guard brazed onto it. I removed similar plates that were bolted on to protect the muffler and differential. I think you should give similar items some consideration. I would also raise the car two inches or so by adding a couple of leaves to the springs or through custom shackles. Would also think of running light truck tires rather than passenger rated tires. For simplicity sake you could go with the stock trans with Overdrive. Where you are you could look at adding a Laycock de Normanville "J" OD from a Volvo, or similar by a custom mount and drive shaft modification. This would give you low speed flexibility and relaxed cruise when available. Nice looking car. Great adventure. Good luck.
    1 point
  10. More money has been wasted on replacing coils needlessly than on any other operation on old cars that I can think of. Leave your coil alone, and search for the problem elsewhere.
    1 point
  11. A good caliper is all you need to measure the bore then the piston. A little subtraction and you have your clearance. Calipers or better yet digital calipers are not too expensive and should be a part of your basic tools. Adam
    1 point
  12. Must take a gymnast to get out of the passenger side for modern vehicles....
    1 point
  13. If you are expecting low quality gas then I wouldn't raise compression too high. Mill enough to get the head flat. There are charts that compare compression ratio with coolant temperature vs gas octane. Or you could carry some kind of octane booster gas additive with you.
    1 point
  14. if you intend to get correct readings for doing these repairs at home, get some snap gauges for measuring the bore of a cylinder..... https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-TELESCOPIC-GAUGE-SET-machinists-hand-tool-tools-inside-bore-snap-gauges/322064862347?hash=item4afc8fcc8b:g:y7UAAOSwfl9XBKl7
    1 point
  15. Your car is beautiful. Im jealous of the kind of work you can do!
    1 point
  16. Jolly, can you please box that dog house up and post it to me? It’s got all the missing pieces I need ... Rick
    1 point
  17. Probably get hanged for this but...How about instaling a Ford 300 ci inline six ? Easy to find, should fit in well, cheap to buy and or overhaul, lots of power, trnsmission choices including Fordomatics, etc. etc.
    1 point
  18. My 40, 241 flathead is in machine shop now. Pistons, crank ground, 2 new rod, valve guides, and machine work will be 3,500 to 4,000 when finished. It hurts to pay that much but I want to drive it long distances worry free. My other 40 Chrysler might get the v8, auto, a/c treatment.
    1 point
  19. Plymouthy is correct re the Coupe descriptions..........I had a 1941 Plymouth Auxillary Seat Coupe, note in 1940/41 Plymouth used the same body shell for both the ASC and Business Coupes but stuck a pair of small folding rear seats in the ASC versions, the ASC was also an option in other mopars as well but in 1942 Plymouth introduced the Club Coupe with a slightly longer roof to allow a proper rear seat and kept the old coupe body for the Business Coupe whilst Dodge, DeSoto & Chrysler also introduced a 3 window coupe as their Business Coupe and a longer roofed coupe for their rear seat..........have attached a pic of the rear seat in the ASC 41 Plymouth Coupe I had........your 2 dr sedan is a nice car..................andyd
    1 point
  20. Went to Huffarama the other weekend. The truck ended up in the Daily Driver online magazine. The new chrome on the front looks good!
    1 point
  21. Holy crap, I was going over the carb and whilecontacting the linkage to the internal pump and the damn pin retainer took off flying and bounced off a plastic container then I THINK hit the ground. Can not find it so I'm going to take a long break from all this. Niel, your offer still hold? Let me know. Thanks Steve
    1 point
  22. Thanks Greg and Niel both good ideas. Niel, I'm interested in your offer, can you contact me at nfesr09@yahoo.com or provide me your info to discuss? Greg, I will TRY this idea with the spark plug top tube nuts. I would have never thought of that. Thanks guys.
    1 point
  23. I put a '72 Satellite 8 1/4 2:73 axle in my '48. It is a bolt in by moving the springs a little to fit the Satellite perches. You will have to change the drive shaft to match the Satellite "U" joint coupler. If your still using the stock tranny, you will need to change the "U" joint coupler on the tranny. I used the Satellite shaft by shortening 1'.
    1 point
  24. Maybe this will or will not help..........This is from a '51 with the counter balance spring.
    1 point
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