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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/02/2017 in all areas

  1. This weekend I ran up to the annual pumpkin car show in Ocala Florida. It's a great show and attracts around 600 cars and trucks and attendance is usually around 20000. Having gotten the 52 Plymouth suburban done around April this year I've show it a few times and I'm still amazed at the attention this vehicle gets. We've never done a Plymouth out of our shop and my partner thought I was crazy doing this vehicle but people seem to love it. We have many high dollars cars in our shop and this Plymouth has really made me a believer that people want something different to look at. Well back to the show. I was only able to stay Saturday for about 4 hrs so Sunday I get a call from the show chairman telling me I had an award. I said thanks but I wasn't coming up Sunday and said fine he would save it for me. Well that little wagon won best of show and $250.00 prize money. I was floored.. So keep showing those old mopars people love em
    3 points
  2. Went to Huffarama the other weekend. The truck ended up in the Daily Driver online magazine. The new chrome on the front looks good!
    2 points
  3. I luv this old boat tail, and powered by a Chrysler flathead 6. I hope to build something like this in retirement....
    1 point
  4. Everybody should have one. Have had a day dream of building a speedster out of 32 Plymouth parts. 200 cubic inch 4 up the compression a bit, open the exhaust and throw on a couple SU cards and go out and beat on Model As.
    1 point
  5. a stock rebuild of a 264 will move your car around just fine and even better if you have the overdrive which was offered in 40. The later R 10 will fit as well. Better carburation and exhaust can always be added later. My personal choice for this car would be a 228. 4 1/4 stroke for good revs and at least an .060 overbore. Ask Fargo 55. he has one in his pickup and it is at least as heavy as your car. 3400 lbs. Not all 40 Chryslers had Fluid Drive and if I gathered your earlier remarks correctly, yours does not. You asked another question which I do not see answered . A business Coupe has no back seat . An "opera " Coupe has jump seats, A Club Coupe has a full back seat and a car like yours is called a Coach. Years ago I got beat up on the forum by someone who had never heard of the term Opera Coupe and maybe some who would call a coach a two door sedan so some of these terms may be regional. Your license plate suggests Ontario so we should not be out of synch too much, language wise.
    1 point
  6. Yah checked thrashingcows and his photobucket pics are not showing. I should have made some type of video tutorial, but in reality it's quite simple....
    1 point
  7. PM Tim Kingsbury outta Milton Ontario. He can help you out with a lot of your questions. They build engines intakes headers and grind cams....good luck
    1 point
  8. Well Frank, what can I say, a Texan in Omaha must do something besides eat the very best steaks anywhere, "Go Huskers"!
    1 point
  9. I also had good results with the HEI from Tom Langdon, it was THE best thing I did to the 41 Plymouth I had......I also used Langdons round style coil...........had no issues with either and as my car had previously been converted to 12 volts it worked fine.........I would recommend Langdons HEI unreservedly..........andyd
    1 point
  10. I would also add that the Landon HEI is a better choice because you can take full advantage of the powerful spark the HEI can deliver. Being that there is almost no primary resistance needed in an HEI system, you can safely open the plug gap to .050 or more and kick up the secondary voltage to 50kv + and not worry about heat or coil saturation. The cap is where the difference is between the slant 6 / HEI mod and an actual HEI (Tom's). Though the slant 6 / HEI is capable of the same high voltage, the distributor cap and rotor were never designed to handle that kind of spark energy and may suffer a shorter life span, Tom's HEI is an HEI cap designed for the high secondary voltage. I kept my plug gap at .040 with my slant 6 / HEI set up. You MUST use the square HEI coil to do this as the round coil would quickly overheat. I know I'm splitting hairs here and probably dragging this a little off topic, apologies.... Adam EDIT: You could also use the points to trigger an HEI and point gap wouldn't matter anymore and the points would never burn up, you would only replace them when the wear block wears down. It's a little involved electronically to make is work correctly but doable. The HEI would trigger when the points closed and therefore rotor phasing would be off but a very simple electronic inverter would fix it. I built one inside my old voltage regulator to hide it. HEI Schematic.pdf Resistor is a 4.7 k-ohm 1/2 watt or higher wattage Transistor is a 2n2222a NPN
    1 point
  11. The Langdon HEI unit is very good. http://www.langdonsstovebolt.com/store/#!/Stovebolt-Mopar-Mini-HEI/p/1222043/category=18665979
    1 point
  12. Pertronix makes a 6v + or - ground module. I don't care for them because they are temperamental to primary coil resistance and RF noise. Also when one of their modules takes a cr@p, you are stuck until another module is shipped out. I prefer off the shelf parts if you are driving it, if it's a fairground / trailer queen it probably isn't an issue. Someone will chime in saying they NEVER fail but everything fails and Mr. Murphy will ensure it fails at the worst time and place. The slant 6 distributor mod is pretty easy. The write up here is excellent and the pictures are still available if you google them. basically you have to turn the distributor housing down .030 to fit in the block (I used a file and drill press) and swap over the drive and advance weights from the flathead distributor. While you're at it, google using a GM HEI module and coil to trigger it for reliability and a really hot spark with no primary coil resistance limitations like Pertronix and the factory Mopar control unit, don't forget to open your spark plug gap. Also, if something does go wrong, the module is $20.00 and the trigger is $20.00 available at any parts house. Tom Langdon sells a drop in, ready to run HEI for our engines for about $200.00. It's not an integrated cap and coil so it doesn't look like cr@p and uses off the shelf parts for a GM V6. FWIW, Adam
    1 point
  13. Hey Gary, had the same issue. "Wrongdoer" has not been the cam(s), but the nose on the breaker arm. That was so worn, that it was no longer possible to adjust to correct gap. Since the breaker and points were ok, I made a new nose (yellow arrow) out of a Pertinax plate (green arrow). Costs: nearly nothing. Works well since about 3000 mls, no wear to see up to now. Hope the picture explains better what I have tried to explain in words. Jan klick to enlarge
    1 point
  14. Merle, this explains everything. I like the hook attachment system without the loops. It looks like my truck has older seats than what originally came with it. The more I dig into this truck, the more I realize it was a pieced together truck.
    1 point
  15. If that's real, and he really is that stupid, how did he live this long?
    1 point
  16. The hook above the steering wheel was probably used for a defroster fan...
    1 point
  17. Well, this old timer left a little early.
    1 point
  18. Lol. You saw only a fin? You're sick.
    1 point
  19. I agree, great write up Keven... although, I find it easier to just get in my truck and bring it to you
    1 point
  20. Well don't shoot me but I'm a hot rodder at heart and have wired my fair share of cars in the past 40 years. Never had to do the math do wire a car yet The only thing I'm looking at adding a rhunts to is the gas gauge. The reason I chose to convert to 12 volt is for modern electrical items such as electronic ignition, and radio.
    1 point
  21. One of the funniest videos I have ever seen. https://www.facebook.com/TheWebmThread/videos/1653632858258884/?hc_ref=ARRyyHYga5XD1X6FsjOI3tLbCJgghXUOuZ-sBd7Sh5JEcMUUnkTuqKdxY9zOURJ8b28&pnref=story
    0 points
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