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Your close.. we were talking canadian 25 1/2" engines.. from 1935 to 1959. My Grandfather was hired by Walter Chrysler himself and was an Engineer. My Dad was an automotive engineer, worked on a ton of different chrysler engines, from flatheads to v8s to Hemis and over all kinds of applications and racing. He did not work for Chrysler. My Grandfather was the GM of the engine plant in Windsor Ontario. I do not have all of the stuff grandfather had.. I do have an entire room 12 x 24 feet, set up like a library with rows 8 feet high with documentation. When Grandfather retired, the flathead was no longer even remotely current and as part of his retirement package he was allowed to take home his personal library from the engine plant of all the obsolete stuff. Honestly I have no clue how much there is. its not dozens of manuals. Its not hundreds of manuals, its thousands. I would guess just his work diaries, notes, drawings etc would be several hundred thousands of pages. At one point he offered to give it all to the Chrysler Museum and they passed. He did donate about a couple of pallets of documentation.

Last week I got myself a barn find Plymouth 1953 from an old man that thought it was a 51' dodge, real cheap deal, it's got the flathead six and most parts, lots of metal work to do yet. This is how it arrived at home last weekend.

You have the old Fram PB1/2 oil canister throw awy oil fileter. Wix's did make these but they are no longer being produced. You will find NOS on Ebay but the want approx $75 or more for each one. Find yourself the old canister style that has the slip in or dropin filter. The oil filter can be purcahsed from NAPA for around $12 each but the canister is more. Look on ebay. I switched over on my 39 desoto becasue of the cost of the old style metal oil filter. Contact me: Rich HArtung cell 484-431-8157 Live near Philadelphia PA.

This gas we get today is lousy stuff, get rid of it and use fresh. I had to rebuild a carb on a 1979 dodge truck this summer, when I took the float bowl off I thought might vomit. Was like gray guey sticky yuck! The truck rarely got driven for last several years, but gas did get added here and there, it did drive to town once in awhile, maybe twice in a year. But all the time they were just adding fresh gas to the old nasty gas that was still in the tank, making it all nasty. Yeah it was moved and parked just 3 months ago, but now it wont start. (was last summer) My uncle was a crying and complaining, was no fixing that carb and we need to buy a new carb ... it already has been taken apart and cleaned twice by two people! And I asked him why did you hook it back up to the dirty gas tank without cleaning it also? If the gas is questionable, if you added gas to it 6 months ago but it had gas in it from a year ago ...... just dump it and start fresh.

At the last oil change on my 230, I stuck my finger in the drain opening to feel for sludge, after the oil had all drained. Yuk ! Sludge was close to 1/4 in deep. I dropped the pan and cleaned the mess out. Then pulled the valve covers, found the same mess. Cleaned out all I could with fingers and rags, then used brake clean and compressed air. Makes a big mess, but is now squeaky clean. This has to be done BEFORE reinstalling oil pan, or mess is now in the oil pan you just cleaned ! While cleaning the oil pan, I noticed the bottom of the drain opening was higher than the bottom of the oil pan. This allowed the sludge to stay in the pan after all oil was drained. I should mention the drain was on the rear of the pan, not the bottom. I cut a 4 inch square piece from another pan with the drain in the bottom. Then cut a smaller hole in the bottom of my 230 pan. With the patch welded over the opening in my 230 pan, I now have a drain dead center in the bottom, with no lip to retain sludge. After installing pan, I put in 3 qts oil and 2 qts auto trans fluid. No oil filter. Drove car 30 miles, and drained it out. Looked like black paint coming out of pan. Drained and cleaned oil filter canister, installed new filter, added 5 qts Shell Rotella 15-40. Drove the same 30 miles, pulled dipstick, oil looks like it did when I put it in. I highly recommend doing this if you oil turns black shortly after an oil change. That dirt circulating through your engine is not a good thing.

Use a 30 amp self resetting breaker and take power directly from battery for max volts at bulbs. Otherwise you still have all the power going through dash and switch first and high losses. Google it. Plenty of schematics out there. Simple to do. By going from the battery the only power on your switches and dash harness is the fraction of an amps to trip the relay And yes. Gen alt will sense the load and compensate/charge as normal.

DCM Classics has a reproduction part B-260 for $85 each https://dcmclassics.com/search?controller=search&orderby=position&orderway=desc&search_query=hub+cap&submit_search=

My apologies, Tim. I won't quote you again when trying to add to a forum topic. This info was based on notes I had taken when you and I had some lengthy conversations many months ago. I had hoped that disseminating this kind of information would add something positive to the discussion, and I for one, believe you carry a lot of credibility, considering your background, so I figured this kind of info would be of benefit to others as well. But....I also understand that people sometimes like to get into debates over things that in my mind should not be all that debatable, and I certainly understand your desire not to get into yet another scrap. Consider your message received - I'll certainly respect your wishes.

Umm If I didnt say dont post that one the forum I should have and the reason being is almost every time it winds up costing me tons of time to defend the facts or winds up into a scrap which to be honest is why I stay off the forum as much as I can. The why are you here now.. well 8 members emailed me today and lol... dragged me back in. I also hate Wikepedia, but to save some time, here is the listing for just the car engines https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrysler_flathead_engine I haven't checked for accuracy but it shows 27 engines and I know from my Grandfathers documentation, just out of the Canadian Engine Plant starting in 1935 for the 1936 model year to the end of production in 1959 there were over 55 cams just for cars. On the truck side, there were specs for pickups and bigger trucks using the exact same engine, and then another cam change for those engines where they used multiple carbs. Aka 1952 265. Now ad over 37 different combination of the flathead 6 for marine, ranging from civilian to military to different variation for different countries depending on octane level. Next we have the agricultural sector which had combines for 4 different manufacturers, 6 swathers, 3 tractors and then different generations of those and you have a bunch more cams. Then there were water pumps, which used 11 different flatheads, welders with over 22 different flatheads, aircraft, welders, snowmobiles, tugs for aircraft, fork lifts, loaders and generators. There were 14 cams just for air compressors, some of which drove a compressor and some of which used some of the cylinders to produce air. On the miltary side absolutely ever engine had its one spec and cams. From cars, trucks, power wagons, heck even tanks. The reality is we have the specs we can grind over 80 different cams, it is not there were over 80 different cams.. Hell I havent even counted it but its several hundred different cams for flatheads. Go find any engine in history that was used in more places than the flathead mopar 6 cylinder... If there is one, Its sure wont be a small block chevy.. Lol.. why do people this a small block chevy is the gold standard for anything ? Actually but since your on the topic.. Just for marine.. not talking whatever else a SBC is used for, but just marine, I could find 17 different cam specs. Im not picking on you but I did have to laugh.. 8.. There are at least 51 cam patterns just for the Canadian, USA, British, and Israel military just for the Canadian 25 1/2" engine.. Different hp, different octane, different fuel from gas to propane to some weird fuel requirements out on the field. I have no idea how many more there were for the USA side. I do agree there are lots of 25 1/2" still around which is amazing given the last one rolled out of the engine plant in Windsor before I was born in 1960. But the plant pretty much ran around the clock from 1952 to the switch over to the slant six in 1959.

Got the transmission back in today. I now have first and reverse, Yaaaa! Went out cruising around for about 4 hours

that could very well be a picture of any spouse forced to watch a stupid sport....

Another point to be made Reg is to put the relays closer to the Headlights. Out under the hood between the battery and the headlight is typically good enough, either mounted on the firewall of the inner fender. The shorter the run the better rather than making all the loops under the dash . I got my 6V relays from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LQOSZSI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I got the pigtails as well https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002ZPUMG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I used 2 for headlight relays and one for the horn.

Reg the relay acts like the starter solenoid, where a light load triggers the switch to connect a higher load through the relay. Typically you could pick up power for the relay from the terminal block that feeds the head lights One should be sufficient for the pair of lows and another for high beams. The wire that comes from the dimmer switch would power the relay, a new feed to carry battery to relay and then the lines to the lamps to the power out of the relay. Some relays are self grounding, some need a dedicated ground wire. This one shows for 12v but is typical. 86 takes power from dimmer. When selected it completes power connection 30 to 87 the lamps. One for low one for high. You can mount near the term block and shouldn't need to run new wires, except for batteryto relay feeds. Battery to 30 probably wants to be min 12 gauge for 6 v.

Put a vacuum gauge on it, sounds like a leak downstream of the throttle plate.

Glasses are a leaned item..glasses are a genuine safety item even for routine wear about the house. I grab my face shield and such when in the shop with grinder/wire brush and when working under a car...last couple things that got in my eye was AFTER and fell out of my hair before I could get in the shower...bike riding....yes on the helmet and face shield...retired my motorcycles a few years back..still have my endorsement on the license though. Beautiful fall temps such as we have right now...perfect convertible and motorcycle evening cruise temps. Good luck at the eye doctor....

That is probably true. I use the postage paid envelopes that usually are included with the offer to send all the stuff back with a big NO written with black marker. Sometimes, I switch the info into other unrelated envelopes and send it back. Maybe they will learn to stop sending me stuff.

Just got my hood ornament back from repair and chrome. I can wait to get it back on.

It's a 51 Meadowbrook

I've made that drive three times, once in my 1938 Dodge Brothers pickup when I moved from Minnesota to Vermont. It's a beautiful drive. Watch out for moose. Also army tanks - I was almost taken out by one flying across the road from the woods on one side to the other. It was a military reservation somewhere in Ontario. I did trips in June and September and the traffic volume wasn't bad. Lot's of great pull-offs and scenic views. If you drive down into Minnesota, don't miss Split Rock lighthouse. It's not too far South of the Canadian border. I also remember pulling off an overlook high above the North shore of Lake Superior - picture attached. There I met an old First Nations man who lived in the area his whole life and pointed out everything interesting in sight. Priceless. One other thing, if you are a US citizen contact your car insurance company and get a Canadian ID liability card. I recently got one through Hagerty. It was free and I had it within a few days. Pete

Actually, if the polarity of the electrical system is reversed, negative to ground in lieu poitive to ground, the engine is running backwards, therefore mileage is subtracted from the odometer.. If the radio has not been reprogramed, it will have a tendency to speak jibberish.. Of course modern mucic sounds the same no matter how it's played.... Bill