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I'm close to final fabrication of a floor shifter for my R 10 overdrive. If someone would like one to test and purchase subject to workability, I will make as many as four additional complete units at a very reasonable price. This shifter will attach to a non OD car transmission as well. These at first come first served basis via email response date. I will drive test the shifter before I send a unit to others to test. My rational is that oft times a builder can make something work for himself, but not universally so. Thus if I have several units in use in different driving conditions then the tests have greater validity. Attached picture shifter is similar. pflaming@mail.fresnostate.edu.

They will siphon the new road $$$ off like they did to the other road taxes that are currently being charged at the pump so the roads will not get any better but we get to enjoy the honored distinction of paying the highest (by far) fuel taxes in the country. The only reason your cost per mile has dropped is your fuel mileage has doubled. Some of us need to drive TRUCKS. I think the registration goes up an average of ~$100.00, might be mistaken though. The current road taxes should repair the roads, not get diverted.... Electric and Hybrid cars should pay the additional taxes based on mileage. To use their terms, "their fair share." You are braver than me, I'm afraid of plugging it into a spreadsheet. I already know we are getting ripped off. It WILL be repealed. My God, California sucks... Adam

Do not keep trying to top it off all the way to the top..there is to be expansion room in the top tank...second, do you have a digital infrared thermometer....this will allow you to ascertain the actual heat within the block throughout the cooing system...DO RUN a thermostat..it not only allows the block to warm up but when open the hole is of the proper size to allow the proper flow of water...not to big to prevent water from saturation but big enough to prevent oversaturation..is the timing a bit advanced by chance...makes them run very well but also allow them to run hotter temp wise..and lastly, did you take the time to purge the block before install to properly clean the sludge from the bottom of the block and inspect the distribution tube.....and ensure that the lower hose has a spring in it to prevent suction collapse if you have deleted the metal u-tube...

interesting reading for those of alternate fuel source...... energy from cow burps....... https://search.yahoo.com/search?p=energy+from+cow+burps&fr=yfp-t-s&fp=1&toggle=1&cop=mss&ei=UTF-8 ya'll have fun now ya hear..

Yes your 52 Cranbrook can be converted to propane very easily with bolt on parts from a Yale forklift ( late 60's early 70's vintage ). The engine in my 46 came from one.

and the last part yes those car handles should fit just fine.

Changed out the coil, condensor and points (all of which were less than 3 months old) and it works great. Was able to cruise at 55 and it still was pulling. Don't know which one of the 3 it was, but on don't care as long as it runs..

a little foliage/etc.

I will throw out that by your profile you are in Olympia, Washington and I have no idea the going shop rate for any large or small enterprise. Hopefully someone here is close to you and can chime in with an approximate cost. The signal light kits are not that expensive nor hard to install yourself. You will need to rewire your sockets for dual element bulbs and index the aftermarket pigtail properly for the Mopar sockets. The kits comes with easy to follow instruction and there are plenty of site on the internet to walk you though should you hit a snag...or come back here with a question. I would think the cost to install at a shop would be a bit of coin....but then I am just spit balling....You can find the kits on E-bay or through a variety of hot rod suppliers. I would suggest you give it a whirl before farming it out..but I also don't know your skills/time/limitations such as tools and place to work.

Got a link to that article? FWIW, pretty much every law I've seen or heard about regarding automotive equipment had a "manufactured on or after" clause in it. Heck the last I checked, the California Motor Vehicle Code still has the details about what you need to do to be legal with solid rubber tires (seen that on a big truck in the last 90 or so years?) and carbide headlights (seen that on a car in the last 100 years?). Both of those are legal but may have the same restrictions now they had way back when (e.g. there is a pretty slow maximum speed for vehicles with solid rubber tires).

more of the older threads needs some updates and closure as many leave you hanging wondering if finished, worked when finished, attentions to needed changes to make work or still a work in progress...

Why are you sorry to comment on an older post? You can learn more from older posts than you can from many new postings.

you left one set out.......

Yea! After fiddling around with my friends Ammco 1750 Brake adjusting tool the front brakes work great! I gogle the tool for instruction and all the info I needed was there. Got a little bit of brake bleeding to do and this lone draw out brake issue should be completed. So thanks for all the help and down the road I will go and where I stop who knows!

I said goodbye to my 1950 Wayfarer sedan after 8 years today. It was more emotional than I expected. Unlike a lot of my car club friends, I have never had more than one collector car at a time. The good news is I have had the chance to get to know a little about the family in Brittany that bought my car. They seem like really nice people and I hope they enjoy the car as much as I did. Now the question is do I buy another old car? For now the answer is no, since I am still stuck with the undersized garage and no work space. That is the principal reason I sold this car.