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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/13/2017 in all areas

  1. Yes. You can trust the factory shop manual and Motors Automobile Repair Manuals. If they tell you something is that simple,it is that simple. My only additional suggestions would be to tape a piece of cardboard cut to the size of the radiator core to the radiator to keep from accidentally damaging any fins accidentally, as well as to save the skin on your hands. Old radiator cores are nasty things,and they create nasty,infected cuts that make your hands sore. The next thing to do is remove the fan before you loosen the fan belt or do anything else. Putting the fan back on should be the next to last thing you do,and removing the cardboard should be the last thing you do. Don't ask me how I know this.
    4 points
  2. Here is a typical power curve graph for the Chrysler Industrial 265
    1 point
  3. As to your other question, a good source of parts is Roberts Motor Parts phone: 978 363 5407. I've had great luck dealing with them. You would also be surprised at how much stuff is available at your local Auto Zone, NAPA, Advance Auto stores, etc.
    1 point
  4. Clarksville.........my listings shows that Chrysler 6's used the same water pump from 1936 to 1954, same one that Plymouth & Dodge used from 1935-1950.........I know that the water pumps that are now sold have an improved circular impeller and sealed non greasable bearings rather than the old style impeller that had a pair of opposing blades and used greasable bushings...........the old style impellers also had rebuild kits available and I can remember having to redo the rebuild job as there was a fibre washer that had a tendency to break..........the water pumps I've seen listed on ebay all seem to be the new type but check around....I obtained a new pump for the 41 Plymouth I had a few years ago and it was the new style...........a much better design........whilst you are playing water pumps, check the condition of the water distribution tube that lives behind the water pump in the block......if its corroded then it should be replaced although you may curse me for this suggestion as it can be a PITA job..........just make sure you get the correct water tube which "should" be to suit the 25" engine which your Chrysler should have........also worth checking the condition of the radiator hoses including whether you have a metal lower tube or coiled wire inside a one piece lower hose.....either maybe present..........depending on clearance between the radiator and the fan its sometimes better/easier to remove the fan from the fan hub then take it off, usually four 1/2" bolts then you can usually see where the water pump bolts are.............its worthwhile using a piece of cardboard to push the removed bolts into so that you can see which go where as they are different lengths..............also note that some water may come out of the block from some bolt holes.....make a NOTE of which ones..............then once the pump is removed the backing plate can be taken off and is usually cleaned up and used with a new gasket on the new water pump.............if you are not sure which bolts leaked water then work on the principle that they ALL go into the water jacket and after cleaning the bolt threads use some pipe sealer or Permatex type gasket Goo to coat the threads on all bolts and reinstall.............I think that there are torque settings for these bolts but so long as they are done up tight you should be good to go.............trust this helps........welcome & regards from Oz.......Andy Douglas
    1 point
  5. Well, here is an update to the 3 cylinders not working. Remember the first part of the problem? Well, it happened to be that the local mechanic didn't know what he was talking about. Everything that he said it probably was, was not. So, I looked online to see if I could find a mechanic that new about old cars and regularly works on old cars. Thankfully, I found a guy (Steve's Antique Auto Repair) about 30 minutes away (in Grand Rapids Mi) from where I live. He checked it out the car the next morning and found only one cylinder didn't have compression. He took the head off and found cylinder 1 had a broken valve spring. He put a new spring in and a new valve (it wasn't bent thankfully). He put a new head and manifold gasket on. The shop did a great job and runs great! Thanks Don Coatney to post this page. I really should get some of these publications for the late 40's and early 50's era automobiles. I know that I would definitely use them...knowledge is the best tool
    1 point
  6. I'm going to add this to my engine, sure would like to see some pictures of what some have done. TKS guys for the responses.
    1 point
  7. You have to drive them out from the top with a pilot drift and a BFH. The pilot must be slightly smaller in diameter than the guide so you don't mushroom the end of the guide, and so you can drive it through the bore. You can make a pilot quite easily if you have a lathe. A good piece of stock to start with is a differential cross shaft, or a king pin. Pound away, you can't really hurt anything as long as the pilot doesn't slip and you don't hit anything else. It takes quite a few blows, you'll only moving the guide about .030" - .050" at the most with each blow. You can break the guides in half when they've been driven half way through with a cold chisel and your trusty BFH, or a reciprocating type "saw thing" like Brent used. Only need to do this if the lifters are in place. Good luck!!!
    1 point
  8. There is supposed to be a tube attached at that point that extends low enough to get into the airflow under the vehicle. The airflow across the opening of the tube creates a partial vacuum (Venturi effect). That vacuum pulls air, cleaned by the oiled wire mesh in the oil filler cap, through the crankcase to remove any combustion byproducts that get into the crankcase.
    1 point
  9. I have had radials on my 1940 Dodge sedan since 1973, 205/65x14 and 275/65x15 and they are great........anyway when I bought the 1941 Plymouth Coupe it was an older restoration and came with Republic brand whitewall bias or crossplies, 600x16........I'd forgotten what a PITA crossply tyres were & are, wandering & following every groove in the road.........I replaced them and the wheels with wheel Vintique 15x6 and 15x7 Chrome Smoothies with Coker Classic Whitewall Radials, 195/75x15 and 235/75x15.........the new wheels and tyres were a HUGE improvement, no more wandering, seemed to steer better, handled better, looked better........in every way just BETTER as I drove the car at least 3-4 times per week..........I know some people prefer crossplies , they supposedly "look" more original, traditional, etc, etc........but for my money and here in Oz the wheel and tyre combination was over $3300.00 Aus so it was a substantial amount of my money but if you can afford them go with radials, I had NO problem with Coker tyres tho' I've heard some people have had various problems, have also heard similar issues with Diamondback tyres also but I ran the tyres at 35psi and they were fine, also no issues with low speed steering input either...........yep.....my 3 Oz cents worth........Andy Douglas
    1 point
  10. Suggest you take a look at the Diamondback Tires website. I bought tires from them for my P15. You can specify the whitewall width you want, since they attach the whitewall to the tires. I don't recall what the price was, except that they were cheaper than Coker. I've been very happy with mine, and they've been on the car for about 6 years now. (Mine are 3" wide)
    1 point
  11. Mopar Wayne , Looking in my Auto-Lite catalog ; your distributor model number IGS-4207A1 uses vacuum chamber VC- 2082R . Hagen's Auto Parts in Puyallup , Wa . ( 1-253-845-7020 ) shows one at $60 and your core .
    1 point
  12. Hey everyone, first off, you all rock! I have it figured out and done fixed it. Turns out the points the last person put in where missing part of the spring and I didn't even realize it when I took the distributor apart. I installed the new points (all of the included parts) and she runs like a raped ape now! I am not even sure if I need to replace the vacuum advance. I suppose if I come across a good deal I will. All of the ideas, suggestions and troubleshooting tips where spot on. Special thanks to Don. The drill idea was perfect. I didn't even need to hook it up to electric to find the issue. I know I will have tons more questions as I move along with this ole girl. I came to the right spot!
    1 point
  13. Nice truck. As was mentioned the Spitfire head was a Chrysler only head in the states. Might be different in Canada. Nothing special about the head except the Spitfire logo. So your engine may not be original. If you can post the engine numbers found on a raised "boss" above the generator on the engine block (as seen in the photo below) someone here should be able to tell you what engine you have.
    1 point
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