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Here is an example of the wood graining that I did while using the kit from Grain-it company. They have a metalplate willall of the various wood grains and then the appropriate base colors and then the top coats. The graining is applied with a soft rubber roller and is a simple process to do. This is an example of curly maple that was used on the 39 Desoto. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.comu

Here are pictures of the previous two weeks worth of work. This side was a lot worse than the other. I had to make a lot of panels in the A pillar area, and I had to get into the floor a little more too. I am farther along than the pictures (I didn't take any pictures this week). I have the drivers inner and rockers in and welded. I have the rear dog leg by the fender repaired, and the rear wheel well is rust-free now. All I have left is to fit and install one small floor patch and the sill plates. I feel like I'm getting there though! After this is done, I will move on to the rear of the body by the trunk (two small patches), and it will need a patch in each fender it looks like. I am hoping to get some of the filler and blocking done this year in hopes to paint it in the spring (or late fall maybe). It would be really nice to get the body done and painted before it gets too cold so we can assemble it in the winter. I'm probably being too optimistic though, but time will tell! You can also see the damage on the doors that I'll have to straighten. I worked on them a few hours already, but I have a long way to go. Its going to a challenge with a black car! Once again - Disclaimer - I'm no expert!

If I may suggest, try to get your new title issued with the body serial number rather than the engine number. Although you may never need to change the block, whom ever follows you might and then they would be back in line at the dmv...

this was done with the grainit kit for the homeowner. It is simple to do and if the graining is not what you like then you just wipe it off and then do another pass. Also the owner of grain it stated that the wood graining does not have to be perfect becasue wood is not perfect in the graining when you really look at it. So I quess that makes alot of sence when you do it yourself approach. Also for the driver cars this is a great product and is the same that the guys that do it for 2-5 thousand for a car. Rich Hartung

Thanks! The car came with 2 or 3 of most trim pieces for it (including many NOS). I believe I have a re-chromed hood ordainment already. I need to go in the attic and figure out what I have! The previous owner started collecting parts, and his neighbor owned a chrome shop, so (lucky for me) all the chrome is done between NOS parts and what he had plated.

Nice work. That family of pigs is great for garden decor.

Or a little further south !!!

This last one shows the supplies I'm using. I prepared the surface with what I could afford making sure of cleanliness and adhesion. I have to depend on the weather and my environment to get a good finish. I don't have a paint booth or environmental controls. So I guess you could say this is the poor mans way to woodgrain. I will keep practicing and hopefully get better at each attempt.

Do you have fuel to the carbs..if yes it isn't vapor lock. If you can hear it boiling in the carb most likely percolation. When you look down into the carb is fuel spilling into the intake? Does you're intake still have a heat exchanger of some sort? Hard to see on the pic. Can be the float isn't completely closing off the needle and seat. How does it start after Hot? Does it shoot out smoke, do you have to floor it to dire up? What temp does the motor run. Are you running a high percentage ethanol blend. Lots of variables. A phenolic spacer may help. A heat shield between the ext and int manifolds may help. Check the condition of the carb if it's a fairly new problem. Kinda need a little more info to pinpoint the root cause.

Sorry not the right one. GGW's are pretty easy to find... not this GGU series. I need the pulley for one..

I am back to work and talked to our machinist and he is not able to commit to making more at this time. If that changes in the future, I will revisit it then. Neil

Still waiting for you to venture a little further north!

It's good to see you and the family really enjoying the car! Love the pics!!

Okay I got the exhaust leak fixed. Thanks Andy Douglas, that indeed was the right size bolt for the manifold. Also, thanks YoungEd for the advice. Taking it out for a cruise in 20 minutes

The colors and technique you used lend a sort of barnwood look to the pieces. I do wood graining in my work but it is done on mostly flat objects ( doors, molding ) and the tools used would not work well on compound curves. Here is a resource that has the tools to do automotive trim. Good luck! http://woodgraining.com/

Here is the information that you need: According to my Toledo Steel Suspension Catalog for 1942-48 Plymouth. you need the following tie rod end both Right and Left of each series. I did a serach on ebay just a few minutes ago and here is what I found. All ties rods manufacturers used the same numbering system ES60 was used ont he right side or the car and ES131 was on the left side of the car. ES60 r&l right and left on ebay for $30 for the pair and these are old stock not remanufacturer ES131 r&l $25 for the pair NOS good old american made ES60 is a common tierod end. The collecting of the various catalogs has come to save the day again. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com