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WD 40 works well on the rubber. It makes it possible to attach the pedal with a light bump from a fist or better still, a rubber hammer.

It is a beautiful morning and I decided to take a short ride. Here is a picture for Bob D, (40Plymouth) he always has pictures of his car at the Neversink Reservoir, this is my car at the Wachusett Reservoir about a mile and half from my house. The Old Stone Church in the background is a local landmark. It was spared when the valley was flooded to make the reservoir around 1900.

Back from my hunt early. See below. 62"

The show season is beginning to wind down here in New England, and one of my favorites is the show put on by the Ty-Rods, a hot rod club that got it's start in 1952. Being a hot rod based club, most attendees are modified cars, many in the traditional manner, but there are also stock restored cars as well. The '68 Power Wagon Brush truck, T&C convert and '55 Dodge were gorgeous stockers. There were several finely finished hot rodded early MoPars present, but pictured here are those that escaped the dreaded "belly button" motor swap: the Green P15 has a LA 318, the '40 Plymouth a 440 six pack under it's flip nose, and the '32 Dodge coupe a early Hemi. Rat rods were represented by an unusual '60 Savoy 2 door post sedan with a built up slant six! I like to bring my '57 New Yorker to show the rodders a 392 in it's nature habitat! Drag files here to attach, or choose files... Max total size 3MB

Hello all, Want to introduce myself as I'll be posting and reading a lot on these forums. My name's Kevin from northern DE. Just picked up a 1940 Dodge De Luxe, 4 door. Needs a lot of work buts in overall good shape for 75 years old. Plans are to either rebuild the 218 or swap in a late 50s 230. Not 100% on the trans, OD will be nice. I found that the engine ID on the block and chassis match, and the body serial number is in pass door. But what are the other 3 numbers shown in the last image on firewall? Large tag looks like the dodge manufacturer tag ... small tag under that? Two stampings on firewall under these as well (above voltage reg.) ... 21678 and 1D under that. Looking forward to this project - was just at a local car show and there were way too many mustangs, corvettes and bel airs - nice to see something different on the roads. Also, one last thing ... I'm in Upper Delaware if there are any local or nearby forum members that would like to meet, it's always great having a local contact. -Kev

Your man does quality work.

All this complaining from the guys who complain when a new member doesn't include any info in their profile like location and project info. Having that info may actually help people get more accurate info faster. It's a one time thing, get over it.

And boy was my dad PISSED about it too.....

I found the new required fields annoying. There was a reason I left them blank before and put innocuous values in there now.

If the needle is pegging to the full side more voltage will only make it worse. We need to look at Ohm's Law. Voltage = Amperage X Resistance (V = I X R) The gauge moves based on how much amperage flows through the electromagnet inside. More amperage = higher level reading. If the sender is 10 Ohms at full and 70 Ohms at empty, let's do the math. 6 volts / 10 Ohms = 0.6 Amps. 6 Volts / 70 Ohms = 0.086 Amps. 12 volts / 10 Ohms = 1.2 Amps. 12 Volts / 70 Ohms = 0.19 Amps. So, if your gauge is pegging to the full side when the tank is much less than full, you need more resistance in the circuit, or lower voltage.

Another part he did to me,the hand throttle clip for my GMC.

Did you switch from 6v pos ground to 12 v neg? Did you polorize the generator? It entails removing and putting wires together at the regulator to let the gen know which polarity it is working with. http://www.texaspowerwagon.com/polarize.htm Hope that helps.

I was able to pick up a NOS oem accelerator pedal for our P15 project car, ( pp#974405 Black). Also, thanks to the forum - today I picked up 2ea of the Napa #735-1896 ball studs. Both the pedal and the studs are shown in the picture I've attached to this post. The pedal wasn't cheap, so I'm moving carefully on this one, (and as many of you here on the forum are aware, sometimes it don't take much of a curve ball to strike this ole batter out),..so in support of the ole saying "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure",..I'm gonna reach out again to the members here for a little confirmation - if possible. In theory, I get it,...the pedal pushes down onto the ball studs at the heel of the pedal to attach it to the toe board/floor pan),....but the combination of the hardness of the rubber of the pedal and the size of the ball studs (3/8" ball) has me a bit pinched up wondering if I'll destroy the heel of this pedal. I took a small piece of copper wire as a depth/width gauge and probed around inside the two pedal holes, and the interior of the holes do appear to be the same or very close to the same size as the round oval countersinks you see at the opening of each hole. The countersink hole openings measure at 3/8" and the ball studs measure at 3/8 ".... but the smaller dimension of the pedal hole opening is only 3/16" (half the size of the ball stud), so that small hole opening of the pedal has to expand/flex out TWICE it's current size, to accept the ball of the ball stud and allow it to pass through and into the hole,...also measuring from the top side of the counter sink hole opening - to where the small hole opening inside opens up into the larger 3/8 opening inside the pedal = is 3/16" deep....looks to me like it would be the splits just waiting to happen :). I would expect a little rubber treatment slick-em (like Mcguiars, etc...) would be smart to help things slide into place...anyway any feedback from folks whom have dealt with this - would be greatly appreciated....(the rubber of the pedal seems to be in great shape and the pedal doesn't show any signs of having ever been installed. When I say the rubber is hard, it's not cracked anywhere, it's just a very high density, super firm type rubber, I can take a finger nail and press in on it and see it give a bit, to try and be more descriptive), since obviously the condition of the rubber material would be key as to this working successfully as Walter originally designed and intended it to work......just trying to head off any variables that might have occurred over the years,... wondering if it would be wise to try and open those inner 3/16" holes up a bit so they wouldn't have to flex so far when installing and removing this pedal ? Many thanks Steve

The WPC club has posted that the 2018 National Meet will be in Chattanooga, Tn. Sept 4-8, 2018. I have gone to three and participated in two. Tours, activities, and a participant judged show. All Chrysler brand vehicles are welcomed. I think I can scare up about six cars to head down and represent Plymouth. Love to have a big crew. Don't need to be a member to participate. Watch the video http://www.chryslerclub.org/meetinfo.htm Mark your calendar, and tell your friends.

I think this is my favorite post ever. A guy in Brazil is missing a piece, and a guy (assuming) in Ohio posts pictures and dimensions, and someone handmakes the piece. Fascinating!

Thanks for publishing the ball stud part number! Appreciate that.

Maybe by Sep 2018 I will have freed myself from the bonds of employment and can laugh heartily at sight of the druggery in the rear view mirror. If the good lords allows, I will be there.

That new engine----2 carbs? alternator? I think you're on to something there. Keep us posted.

That '55 Dodge is beautiful.

Very nice car....your engine pic helped me determine one of my mystery parts found in the trunk of a 49 I'm working on...if anyone has any clue s on the other two brackets let me know also!!! Thanks for the precleaner bracket photo..

Hi Andy, Hi Marc, thanks for your welcome messages! @Marc: yes it's the one you sold to Alex of the Rumblers CC. I already informed Marcel about the possible deal. I have a meeting at the bank next wednesday. I met Alex last saturday on a meeting here in Luxembourg and realised he had a for-sale-sign in the windshield. I immediately talked to him and we're in contact now. I'll send you a PM on facebook tonight. Marcel told me you already made some modifications on your Plym. We need to talk :-) . Regards, MIKE

There are gas, brake and clutch pedals on ebay all the time at different prices.Most are after market. I would just swatch for a while and you should get a good deal.Check to see what Andy gets for them and look for some cheaper. That's what I do for many parts.

Several years back I had the same problem. I found that my engine had the same kind of seal as yours and that I would have to pull the transmission and fluid drive unit to replace the top half of the seal. I did not want to tackle that at that time, so I simply replaced the bottom half. I also discovered that the bolts holding the top half of the seal were loose. I was able to snug up the bolts with a thin open end wrench. The new bottom half seal and tightening the bolts solved about 95% of my leak problem. ... Not perfect, but it has been A problem that I can live with.

I articulated a few vehicles, but that was a long time ago.

Thats ok.....I'm just in it for the glory....lol.

I rebuilt;t my started for this reason, it would not crank fast enough to get the engine running. When I opened it up I found my brushes and bushings were severely worn. My armature was making contact with the field coils as well, the armature as scratched all around. I got a new armature, new bushings and brushes. It cranks over like a champ ever since.

Nice! Mine's a 230, Fenton headers, HEI distributor from Tom Langdon, alum. head from Edgie, & since last weekend a rod knockin'. Bummer!

This event takes place four an a half miles from my house. The president of the ty-rods club is a personal friend of mine. I've been attending for the past four or five years with my P 15 sedan, and this year I registered my P 15 convertible. I had intended to be there, but an impending business trip down under, and many things left to do around the house prevented that..