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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/30/2017 in all areas

  1. I wanted to share a tool I made today to adjust front drum brakes. Utilizing an extra drum from a 1955??? Dodge truck, I was able to press out the wheel studs and separate the hub from the drum. Then welded a couple nuts to the hub. Drilled a square hole in a piece of steel plate and inserted a ½" carriage bolt and nut to complete the tool. It's so easy to use. 1) lay drum upside down and set the hub tool on top of the drum hub. 2) turn the bolt in or out until the inside edge of the plate is inline with the inside of the drum surface. 3) turn bolt 1/4 turn in and tighten nut to hold plate. 4) place tool on spindle (with bearings and castle nut) 5) adjust lower major adjustment bolts followed by minor adjustments. 6) rotate tool and adjust until desired clearance is achieved 7) remove tool and attach drum, check for drag, and readjust if necessary. Worked for me, hope someone can use this simple tool design to adjust their brakes, enjoy!
    5 points
  2. Does not indicate we have anything going on. But with this latest upgrade there is no way to make a "LIKE" without that stupid heart thing appearing. So forget the little heart! I like your posting but hot that much. This upgrade feature should change! GTK are you listening????
    2 points
  3. Some pics of oiling the tappets and cam....
    2 points
  4. over the weekend B1B Keven found me a horn ring attached to a B3D chassis (horn ring removed in photo) got me thinking, someday I might want replace the bed on our flatbed. has anyone built a flatbed that would resemble one made from back in the day? ours currently, is wood with bolt on pockets, 7' wide and 10' long (that backstop currently makes my outside mirror useless) there might already be a thread on this I missed Thanks,
    1 point
  5. I haven't attended a National DeSoto convention since 1991, but I was very impressed with the DeSoto convention in San Diego this weekend. The cars were just awesome with about 40 on display. It proved to me that the single marque original car club is not yet dead. It was amazing when at the awards banquet one of the hosts started talking about the origins of DeSoto and introduced Hernando DeSoto himself in full armor, helmet, and battle axe to address the convention!!! It turned out that San Diego had an advantage with that since San Diego was discovered by Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo and our "Hernando" portrays him on the replica of Cabrillo's ship in San Diego harbor. Just 20 miles away in Poway was the Hudson, Terraplane, Essex convention which was even more impressive with about 85 cars on the field. I've never thought much about Hudsons before because you never see them. But you sure could see them here in fantastic restored condition. I never knew Hudson's were so beautiful!
    1 point
  6. Finally I got around to checking and adjusting the valves on my '53 Chrysler. I did a valve job in June. I set the valves best I could, cold. The car has been running well. Those in the know, say the valves need to be checked with the engine hot. Even better, while it's running. Well for me, this was a first. When I first learned about setting valves on a running engine, I laughed. Good Lord, why would anyone tell someone to sick their hands inside a hot running engine ? Well, I finally got some time to do it today. I took the car out for a ride. I got it nice and hot. Came back to a driveway with all the tools lay'd out in advance ready to go. Like a pit stop, I had it jacked up and the valves exposed in little time. I fired up the engine and I checked all my intake and exhaust valves. I did find a couple of exhaust valves were a little tight. As I expected, as they expand more as they heat up. I shut off the engine, made a quick adjustment, then fired it up again to check valves again. The hot, engine-running valve set enlightened me as to exactly why this needs to be done. You can really feel those feeler gages being pulled in when it's right. My intakes were all good, in spec. I made adjustments to my exhaust and I feel a lot better about properly cooling those hot valves while I am driving. After I was done, I put together a quick unedited, unscripted video for anyone interested in seeing how I did this. Sorry about trying the talk over the engine. It's hard to clearly hear what I am saying when my camera was so close to the engine. It feels great to do, and learn something new. I only burnt my left arm once near my wrist. Totally worth it! - Keith https://youtu.be/aameeYT7SXQ
    1 point
  7. Oh, Don you are so sentimental about the past! No name!
    1 point
  8. Don, they pulled that on me at O'Reilly Auto so to speak. I asked the guy fora radiator petcock and an engine petcock. one is 1/4' npt and the other is 1.8" npt. He insisted on year make and model, good luck on parts for a 1950 B2B at O'Reilly. Said the computer didn't show one and they couldn't help me if it's not on the computer. So, no such thing as a real parts person anymore. I got on Amazon and looked one up from Dorman in like 15 seconds, sheesh!
    1 point
  9. Richard , You have already done a lot but don't feel belittled with my suggestion . While the weight is on the tires , have someone turn the steering wheel where the play is while you look underneath to see where the slop is . You might find that the looseness is in the steering box or something else is loose .
    1 point
  10. Thanks, Andy! So that's +1 for spray-welding. Doing a Google search yesterday, it seems that there are a couple of places that do spray-welding in my area, so I probably will call them today or tomorrow to see what they say. Of course, the best scenario would be if I were to find out that my seal contacts my crank in a smooth area, not in the rust patch like I have been fearing. I hope to get to the machine shop to determine if this is the case in the next couple of days.
    1 point
  11. That improved the looks of the beetle.
    1 point
  12. that rear carrier is a later model 8 3/4 Mopar.........the 742 casting as it is commonly referred to in the muscle car arena...the pinion snubber is a dead give away to later application...
    1 point
  13. Great pictures, thanks for the link. I'm a bit partial to Hudsons and Terraplanes. When we first got our D24 I would frequent salvage yards in New Mexico looking for parts. One in particular in Alamogordo that seemed to have a rather high percentage of Hudsons, and one '37 Terraplane that caught my eye. I did a little digging and found out Hudson was a very popular brand in the area because of its reliability - and speed to cross the wide open areas - and several had come from the military bases in the area. I never could forget the styling of the Terraplane, so much so that I kept an eye out until I found one that was within my means, financially and mechanically. Took ten years to find it, which I did by accosting a group of Hudson owners that had stopped for gas in Carlsbad, NM, in route to a regional Hudson, Essex, Terraplane club meet in Las Cruces, NM. They gave me a copy of the club magazine, and lo and behold, there was one in the classifieds that fit the bill, and was only 50 miles from my uncle in southern Illinois. That was 15 years ago, I've kept it running, driving, and stopping, but it's a retirement project. Here it is the day I brought it home. 35mm photo, digitized, printed, then scanned - thus poor quality.
    1 point
  14. Thanks for the tips guys! I got my hands on a borescope to borrow and I have an extra gasket set sitting in the garage I'll bring. I like what dpollo suggested with pulling the head and reinstalling if no deal. Off to see it this Sunday, if all goes well and I like it, I'll post pics of the find. This will accelerate the time on my resto project. Now I have to decide which trans route to take ... original 3 spd, later 4 spd and convert to floor shift ... or hold out for an R10 trans on the interwebs. I love these cars!
    1 point
  15. No, I'm not one to jump very quickly. In fact, my wife complains that I get my PhD in everything I do, lol. I did call a couple of other machine shops today, and was surprised when they gave me the same answers my own machinist gave me. I mentioned the possibility of getting the crankshaft spray-welded, as that seems like it would put a thinner layer of weld material on, which could be more easily smoothed, but one of the shops I spoke to getting in there with a grinding wheel would be tough, and using a hand-held polishing belt would only remove a tiny amount and would most likely not result in a surface that's circular. So I'm learning, little by little.
    1 point
  16. Well, this old timer left a little early.
    1 point
  17. So Ed, not to beat a dead horse,would a 664941 gear fit ?And is it still available.Thanks for all your time on this
    1 point
  18. I retired in February after 42 years in the engineering business. My wife also retired this year. We are very lucky to have made it in reasonable health and with some financial security.
    1 point
  19. My 1947 Mopar Streamliner parts book only shows 1 carrier part # 663472 for 37-47 plymouth dodge desoto and chrysler. Then it shows drive gear and pinion sets Generated type 3.73 664941 for 37-41 ply 42-47 dodge 46-47 desoto. Also formate type 3.73 1123087 46-47 dodge and desoto
    1 point
  20. Don..........would be honoured if you graced us again........lol............your posts make me smile...........andyd
    1 point
  21. Rear main seal replacement is tricky. I'd pull the motor, mainly because I'm sick of laying on the ground. You'd have to unbolt the transmission and remove the bellhousing and flywheel for proper access. You have to remove the timing chain so that the crank can be moved down for clearance. The good news is that you can leave the connecting rods bolted in place, and the pistons will all slide down in their cylinders. Trick is not to move the crank to the point of the rings snapping out! This is at least for a two-piece modern seal. You need to take these steps so that the seal can be properly glued into place. Without sealant, it's a waste of time. Also, I'm Not sure about a rope seal, that's a different animal. See pics below for a recent rear main seal replacement on a 251.
    1 point
  22. I removed the 2nd leaf from the bottom on all springs, it's a lot of work, and lowered my truck 2 inches front and back. Then I put a size smaller tires on the front for a very slight rake. It drives great and is less top heavy on corners. I'm pleased. I'm running 15" rims and radial tires.
    1 point
  23. Got a piece of pipe that the OD is close ( within 1/2" to the ID of the cap? Put it in a vise to hold the pipe at 90 degrees to the vice tightly - slowly/gently take a small hammer to the outer edge of the cap while it is held about 1/8"=1/16" into the pipe and slowly hit the cap just inside the where the pipe rests against the pipe outside the dust cover while it is held at a ( approx.) 30 degree angle to the pipe. This will expand just the edge slightly and make a tighter fit to the inside of the hub. Then maybe the same tapping the other side just outside of the formed ridge to create a raised ridge. Find a socket that fits the OD of the cap inside the socket as tight as possible and tap the cap into the hub! Have done this Many/many times at work, seems to have worked good. Hope I have made some sense of this!. Another idea, hope to be of help! DJ
    1 point
  24. Mike, in 1956 I bought a 37 Ford two door sedan for $40.00, then discovered it had mechanical brakes and a V8. Brakes so bad I was scared to drive it.
    1 point
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