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That homemade repair make look a little crude and rude,but there ain't no arguing with something that worked on a car that was probably being used as a daily driver at the time.

@Frank Elder, yeah I saw that. Makes me wonder as I read through the old posts (I have read EVERYTHING updated through September 2016 and working on August) if some of the posts are from members no longer on this earth or no longer able to enjoy working on their cars. Makes me sad. I'm 53 and only joined this hobby this February--before then I hadn't even bought a used car except my first car in 1984 (a 1977 Audi 5000). I had always paid others to change the oil and all other services - I've not been a car guy. Who knows where I'll be in another 25 years. But I'm certainly enjoying the fellowship here while I'm able.

Access to your spouse's measuring spoons but they are hiding the kitchen scale from you? As long as you are in the kitchen rummaging around through the drawers, check the refrigerator. The butter in mine comes in 4oz bars/sticks and I am guessing that it is about the same density as the grease they originally called for, so imagine 1/4 of a stick of butter for sizing purposes.

I concur with the line bore given you do not have the original caps...if you go with this process, do ensure proper marking of the end caps to the block on completion of the line bore so not to have any issues when removed for the final clean and assembly. Your machine shop will be able to advise you

had a guy from a local machine shop make a "house call" and ground the seats this last Wednesday after work. I do love the look of new valves

I called my favorite engine rebuilding shop and talked to them, while my "guy" there was on vacation the other person in the office said they could help you but did not know pricing etc..I explained that line homing was Not just what was needed but rather a line bore and maybe then a line hone. I was told that they could deal with that, so- call next week and talk to Steve They build and balance many race engines and the owner is a long time racer. A well established company and Steve knows Mopar flat sixes well. Central Balancing and Machine, Modesto, Ca. 209-538-8956. Hope the person I talked to- a lady but she has been there for many, many years knew what I meant but seemed to totally understand. At least a good contact a little closer to your location. Get er' done, best of luck-keep the forum up to date. DJ

Considering the planned trip to Morro Bay, I imagine that the ice blocks would only be needed for the trip out. Once you're there, you could "capture" some of the coastal air in the cooler, then just recirculate it to keep cool for the ride back home.

looks like it still has a lever operated starter which I believe stopped after 42

Ya I just had to dig up a post by Norm looking for a part # for an oil gauge line. He was one of the good ones

I'm hoping my wife doesn't notice the cv joint grease stains on her measuring cups. LOL

I ended up using CV joint grease, figured it was close to the original heavy fiber grease. The CV joint grease came in a 3 ounce packet, made it easy to figure out amount needed per joint.

230 has a longer stroke than the 218. The crankshaft and connecting rods are different. Other than that they are virtually identical. Not many parts from the 25" engines are compatible with the 23" version.

And just for fun, MoPar heaven picture. With newer filler cap

Well that's how my engine looks, except the air cleaner, the long radiator tube, and the huge dyno-something to load it at the rear.

Hmm I would have thought 30s from looking at it. Also the possibility they fancied it up a little for the film.

Sadly I did not place. The Pontiac next to me took first in class. Oddly the guy lives less than a mile from my house! Second place went to a blue 54 or so Chebby truck. All the vehilces there were wll done. Judging was odd, 30-45 seconds max at each vehicle, a quick walkaround and an opinion formed and moved on...really odd judging the "style" and "elegance" of a vehicle. meanwhile some pictures of some MoPaR things I saw....

I concur 100% buy another 265 or at the very least a 250. Stay away from the 218 or 228s, underpowered for your needs...

Briggs & Stratton and Tecumseh need the valve tipped for setting the valves. Oh and maybe Clinton garden engines. Not a MoPar flathead Brent!

Good thing you bought a running truck. I can't imagine what all you would have done to one that did not run

I think this is what your looking for.

We had a big project for the USAF, and when the 1st deliverable was completed, a pic was taken with the (almost) everyone involved in making it happen and put on the company website and newsletter... one of the drafters involved was often heard to say "do I have to do everything around here" and he bore a striking resemblance to Morgan Freeman, one afternoon I caught another engineer photoshopping the drafter's head onto every body in that group photo to present to him, we discussed it and took it a step further by printing up the original and framing it to give to him as thanks for all the work he did, then sneak the doctored photo in late Friday after he left for the weekend, to see how long it would take for him to notice, with small wagers being made quietly around the office. Three weeks later, someone from administration stopped by his cubicle to have him sign some form, and we heard her say "hey, what the heck is this?!?" in her typical shrill voice...you could hear the entire office jump out of their chair at that to see what he was gonna do, and Mr. Freeman paused a long time and says a long drawn out "what...the...he//..." at which point the entire office has surrounded his cube to bust out laughing, explain what we did, and wagers paid off...from what I heard, he still has that picture up...GOOD TIMES

You'll get mixed opinions on this if you have the original main caps, but at our shop every block gets checked. If you sourced the main caps from another block then I would absolutely have the line bore or line hone done!

I have always heard it is required if you don't have the matching set of blocks and caps or didn't mark their orientation before removal.

The hood ornament is at About 15 seconds into to video. http://kstp.com/news/historic-cars-10000-lakes-concours-delegance-helps-nonprofit-bridgings/4558496/?cat=1

I think patience is the key. The 236 in my 1940 desoto was in bad condition and would need the cylinders sleeved to be able to rebuild. I got anxious and purchased a nice rebuilt 23" 218 with a 230 rotary assembly from a member on this site. He gave me a great deal in order for me to afford shipping halfway across the country. After doing further research And better understanding of the benefits of a 25" block, I decided to go back to use a 25" engine. I sold the 218 and purchased a used 1950 25" 251 engine from a member on the other side of the country. Paid much more than I should have (shipping) Engine came with broken intake manifold, broken fuelPump, no carburetor and the engine had very low compression across all cylinders. Not the sellers fault as I did not clarify specifics, got anxious and paid way to much for shipping. $550 A few months later I picked up a 265 Chrysler six that was advertised through the Instagram RodSwapper account for $200 -very clean engine, spitfire head, freshly rebuilt starter, freshly rebuilt carburetor, new ignition wires, cap n rotor and all assesories attached as well as an automatic 2 speed transmission. The seller just wanted to get his money back for the carb rebuilt and tuneup parts he spent on. He was going the V8 route

It doesn't have enough power for your car,but IF you can get it at a really good price,it might be worth buying as future trade goods. IF you can afford to spend the money and just sit on it. You never know who you are going to meet that might have something for sale you need,and they just happen to need a 25 inch 218 for their restoration project. If you get it at a good price,the worse thing that can happen is you end up selling it to another Mopar guy that needs it for what you paid for it. Or at least that is a theory I am working on,anyhow.

That is a Canadian 218 engine (25 inch) and although it would fit into your Windsor, bolt for bolt, it would prove to be woefully underpowered. The bigger cars need the necessary torque of the longer stroke to get them moving. If the price is right, there are some parts you might need. These include the manifolding and the water pump, the cylinder head ( good way to raise compression ) and miscellaneous pieces for the 25 inch block.

I am thinking this is my next purchase....or some variant of same.

Don, I look forward to reading your comments. Occasionally I may have missed something - it causes me to go back and read what has been posted in a thread that perhaps I missed and although I don't always totally agree with your response - ( you haven't lost your edge ). You, as one of the forum members who has been there done that...and have the pictures to prove it - I generally pay attention.

Probably a chinese replacement bushing...Orient sizing......

it could be worse....

Casting # 871357-6 Early 50's Plymouth? Rear horizontal mounts 4 1/8" ID Hole 7 3/4" Depth Casting # 864588-3 1948 Plymouth? Rear horizontal mounts 4 1/8" ID Hole 7 3/4" Depth Casting # 579298-6 1952 Truck? Side vertical mounts 4 3/4" ID Hole 7 1/4 Depth

It looks like a windshield wiper arm from something that uses a two pivot sweep . Somebody out there needs it badly. But who ?

I thought they were for when you lowered a car the very first time with a torch at the tender age of 16 and got it a tad too low and was too busy working a min wage job and chasing skirts to fix it right. They're easilly removed with a good launch from a railroad crossing. Your results may vary.

I have been using a toggle switch for my ignition switch for some time without any problems. Suddenly I'm having problems, why? This afternoon I photographed the wiring under my dash and studied it this evening. I discovered that the out wire on the switch was smaller than the input wire. Somewhere recently I change some wires, ops! With some net research I learned that if the out put wire is smaller, it may be forced to carry more energy than it is able and thus can melt the insulation ground out and even start a fire. For most readers that is electricty 101, but to some of us that realization could save a wiring harness, even a vehicle, maybe a shop, and even a cat's life. Will be changing some wires tomorrow. Years ago Plymouthy Adams taught me that the "net is my friend", he was correct, TKS Tim.

to me it sounds as if the coil is heating up internally and there might bea broken winding in the coil so when the coil get very hot internally the wires pull apart and then the coil can not provide the proper amount of power or electrical charge down to the distributor and then the spark plugs. So after about 6 hours the coil is cold and the wires have sooled off the heat and then are touching each other and then you can get the car to run for another 10 minutes until it get hot again. Chnage out the coil and mount it inthe proper direct with the main wire pointing down to the dizzy as it was explained above. Please let us know what happens. Also when the car gets hot and then dies what is the temp of the temp gage.? ALSO WE HAVE FOUND THAT ON SO CARS THE LOWER RADIATOR HOSE MIGHT BE COLLAPSING AND THEN THE ENGINES GETS TO HOT TO FIRE UP Check this lower rad hose did you ever change the hose and if you did was there ever an internal spring in the hose. Also there should be a metal tube that is connected with to pices of rad hose one from the water pump to the metal tybe and then another piece from the metal tube to the lower port on the radiator. Is this your setup or are you running a one piece form lower radiator hose. The metal tube took the place of a metal spring that would have been in the all rubber hose. Please let us know what you find and get back to the posting with you results. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

New wrist pins pressed in the piston rod. New rings for the Pistons, new cam bearings. Valve job , piston walls light hone. The head and engine resurfaced, new crank shaft bearings, new piston rod bearings. New oil pump, new water pump. New freeze plugs. All new gaskets.

I would like to apologize to the forum at large and Paul himself for my failed attempt at humor.

https://hum3d.com/3d-models/desoto-custom-suburban-sedan-1947/

HRT is correct, Frank. Yes they are. 3 7/16 by 4 1/4. Believe it or not, 25 inch engines can be 201 218 228 236 241 251 and 265 ( this 201 was 3 3/8 bore by 3 3/4 stroke used in Canada 38 to maybe 40 ) 23 inchers can be 201, 217 ( some call it a 218) and 230 all depending on the bore and stroke combination.

any advice for people who are wound tight but less on the progressive side of life?

Ive had 4 dodges from 46 to 51 all had D on the head. And one plymouth 55 with P on the head. When I was younger I bought a chrysler head with spitfire on it. I liked the word spitfire so I bought it to put on my 51 wayfarer. The car is gone, but Ive still got the chrysler head. That makes me a sht head.

I did my 218 in 2006 which included having the harmonic balancer rebuilt along with surfacing the flywheel and disc and rebuilding the pressure plate. I did not have to buy a new crank but did have to have it welded up in the thrust surface area and re-machined to factory dimensions plus turning all of the bearing journals. The cost of doing so was about as much as buying another crank so I did not save any there. I had all of the mating surfaces machined flat to provide a good sealing surface. Had the mains line bored and bored the block .040 over with new pistons,pins,and bushings. Had the rods re-manufactured, new guides and valves and had the cam reground for more lift and duration. I did all of the re assembly work and installed it in the car with all new rubber mounts. The car cost me $2500.00 when I bought it in 1986 and the engine rebuild and installed in the car cost in excess of $3000.00 in 2006. It become obvious I do not care about how I spend my money as long as the car remains powered with a flat head six.