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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/16/2017 in all areas

  1. 2 points


    Three of the head bolts go into the intake ports in line with the manifold. I serviced one engine that was drinking up its coolant but before tearing into it I put thread sealer on these three bolts and a can of stop leak in the rad. Re tightened the head bolts and sent it out. It still runs well and no more coolant loss. You have nothing to lose by trying this first.
  2. 2 points
    Plymouthy Adams


    Rislone is a very good product by Schaffer....it is the only product I would use or recommend. BUT one must be able to read and follow instructions on the product label. It is the best upper cylinder lubricant and about the only product that I know that will free up hydraulic lifters almost immediately on reaching operational temperatures. Many engines that are not often over the road or see extended highway use can benefit from this product as the odds of varnish or other sludge build up will cause lifter problems. Probably the only product I do not view as snakeoil. Again, as with any product common sense should prevail and not over dilute your lubrication system.
  3. 2 points
    Plymouthy Adams

    lowest known P18 engine number

    Not sure about hard to beat...may be a problem with the membership here but with the POC or the WPC crowd or even members within the AACA....there are 180254 chances one will pop up as produced prior to your number.....P18 first engine number was 1001
  4. 2 points
    My cousin gave me a 52 Concord 2 door when I was 14, didn't run had lots of rust and the exhaust was rotted off from under the seat back. But it was all there, my next door friend and I got it running after a weeks wait to get money together to get a used battery from the junk yard down the street. Drove around the field, taught all the 12 and up kids in the area how to shift and drive, charged them 50 cents or two gallons of gas for a half hour behind the wheel. Even set up a spot with hay bales to practice parallel parking and three point turns which was part of the NY drivers liscence test. Every kid who practiced passed their tests first time. It was a killer way to meet girls, they came from surrounding towns to practice. Drove it for two summers on the lot, never used my own money for gas after the first week it was up and running. Put on a cherry bomb and a side exit tail pipe. Rebuilt the carb, fuel pump, the Genny,and rebushed the starter. Sold it to a neighbor for 50 bucks. Bought my 46 when I was 21 for 200 dollars in 1970 from the original owner. Done 80% of the work to put it in its current form. Drive it about 3000 miles a season, and endeavor to put one long road trip a year on it. Other than a fan belt and a couple of hot start problems it has never left us stranded. Plymouth builds Great Cars.
  5. 1 point
    Sitting here and got a phone call, listed as the VA Outreach Center....as they are a legit facility as I have a brother who is 100% under VA care so against most all incoming call policy I answered this one. Guess what, the recording started with I see by our records you have stayed at our resort facility....blah blah blah. How stupid are these folks to think I will automatically be warm and friendly to a deceiving phone call. These folks are scum in my book...
  6. 1 point
    I posted on another thread about this but as follows............re the upper outer bush, pin & seals the seals themselves you look at the pic of the shop manual are "tubes" that squash and do NOT have that HEX indent........the upper seals essentially can be replaced by large O rings which are much easier to install and in fact if you look closely at "Fig 2" above you'll see what appears to be "O" rings on either side of the bush.........btw lock bolt #20 in the shop manual pic will not allow a new bush to fit unless its removed first NOW, that rubber seal with the large HEX is ONLY for the lower fixed bush head that goes thru the hole in the lower spindle........there are sometimes found 2 different size hex heads on this part depending I think on the brand of part so make sure that you keep that hex indented rubber..........the other side of this metal bush uses a circular rubber with a round indent that fits over the protruding part of this bush when its fully screwed into the lower spindle......with both Hex and Round seals in place it is a tight fit into the lower outer A arms then screw the pin in the assemble it................... Does this all make sense?...........lol.........hope it helps........Andy Douglas
  7. 1 point

    No interior lights

    Spent a few hours with her today. ''Installed the battery the correct way,,, 'traced the interior lights to a bad B pillar switch. Traced the no brake lights to the brake light switch, mounted to the frame rail on the drivers side, and simply pushed the wire back into the socket... drove for a few hours. Amp meter goes into the positive now, not neg. i just barely push the starter button now and she starts up. Next project, fuel line heat shield. Is installing a new rigid fuel line from the fuel filter with it bent away from the manifold a good idea? thanks for everyone's help!
  8. 1 point

    Steering knuckle seals

    Those upper outer seals shown in Don Coatneys pic as above are a tube style and the original type, they are installed using a "U" shaped steel piece that fits either side of the bush and allows the seals to side in on either side..........however I have used a pair of large "O" rings that were about 1/4" thick and a tight fit around the pin...........I installed the O rings on either side of the bush, installed it inside the upper spindle hole then gently pushed it into the space between the outer A arms then screwed the threaded pin in........it was a bit fiddly but thinking about it now you could use a few small drops of super glue to hold the O rings onto either side of the bush which may help a bit...................dunno if this helps.........lol..........last time I did these was a few years ago and I teed up a mate who did wheel alignments to give it a proper one at his workshop and adjusted it myself by eyeball and measuring, then drove very slowly and carefully there..........lol............Andy Douglas
  9. 1 point
    Niel Hoback

    Time for an overhaul...

    Satin would be good. Not glossy, same as the generator and starter. Breather pipes, too.
  10. 1 point
    I would contact Nostalgia Sid's in Guthrie, OK. (405) 416-3080. I dropped off my axle with spindles still attached, and a new king pin set and $480 later it is painted and ready to pickup. The $480 included a 3" drop in the axle and the king pin setup reamed and installed. It is easier to save money somewhere else, I think.
  11. 1 point
    40's to 50's Plymouths and most others from that era will probably be almost free by then. Most of the rest of us will either be in a"Better Place" or worse yet a rest home. Except for me of course, I plan to do the same as I did at age 5, sit in the car and go "Vroom Vroom".
  12. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    1949 Dodge Bumper Jack

    can you imagine a bumper jack along side a busy interstate with high speed semis passing by....the very height one has to reach to remove a rear tire makes the peg leg approach very unsafe in my book....I recommend using the stock bumper jack as a static display while hiding a nice safe trolley jack in a vintage suitcase along with a couple nice wheel chocks. These jacks are very low cost and highly effective with their stable base and the support pocket provided...
  13. 1 point
    All right , all of you who were born in the first half of the last century : We may look at the world through the eyes (corrected vision) of a teenager but the world is not looking back at us with anything near the same enthusiasm. It was our duty as teenagers to find the weaknesses of our parent's generation of cars and we did our best. We know now that old age and treachery will overcome youth and skill and.... by golly..... weren't we lucky to have left home while we still knew everything?
  14. 1 point
    M first car was a P15 that was originally purchased new by my grandfather. Sadly, that car is gone (I tried to find it, to no avail), but I found a sister to it back in 2006. After approximately 4 1/2 years, it was roadworthy. Yes, it has been modified quite a bit, but at first glance, it looks stock. Upgrades include a 350 Chevy engine, TH350 transmission, power rack & pinion steering, air conditioning, Road Runner rear end, new interior, and custom rewiring. It's fun to drive, dependable, and still brings back a lot of memories of that first P15. Oh...and I'm 68 years old.
  15. 1 point

    No interior lights

    Not yet. Busy work week. I noticed that the positive from the battery is going to the starte solinoid and negative to under the engine block. 'I think I need to switch the battery around has having the battery in backwards been hurting the system?
  16. 1 point
    I'm turning 70 tomorrow and find myself in great company here. A wonderful neighbor gave me my very first car, a two tone green 1954 Dodge Coronet Red Ram 4 door in 1965. That was one tough machine. I gave it to a true friend and my first automotive mentor when I was drafted in 1966, and it ended up in a figure 8 race at Glen Este Speedway. My first "antique" car was a derelict $100.00 1948 Chevrolet sedan delivery purchased from a local AMC dealer, Harry and Carl Rambler, in 1969. They'd put it right out in front with bunting and flags as a joke, but the styling just blew me away. It was a tired old Grandin Hardware Store veteran, and with a Jasper rebuilt engine, an 8 volt battery and new tires, it became my daily driver for about three years. Next came a 1950 Plymouth Deluxe 2 door fastback, then a 1937 PT50 as a shop truck in the early 1980's, a 1936 Plymouth P2 coupe in 2009, and a 1935 Plymouth PJ coupe in 2011 which I sold to purchase my 1949 P18 Special Deluxe convertible this spring. Despite lots of other cars in between, I keep coming back to Plymouth flatheads.
  17. 1 point
    Physically I'm 65. Mentally, 18-19 (my wife would agree). Been a carnut since grade school. Kept me out of trouble. Could've been worse.
  18. 1 point
    My Plydo disc kit after 30-40 thousand miles.
  19. 1 point
    Steve......whilst my disc adaption is an Oz setup you can see that the brake hose uses a banjo fitting same as the Scarebird setup but I have the hose going at the rear of the suspension, in fact it uses the original Dodge hose chassis bracket that is held onto the chassis with 2 bolts, I don't have them or it pictured but they are shown(the holes at least) in the post of yours just behind the upper shock mount...........by using this bracket my brake hose travels behind the spindle and shock absorber to this chassis mount bracket and does not come into contact with either the spindle or stub axle on hard lock...............btw it seems that the hoses you are using or recommended to use have specific shape at the banjo end that only allows the hose to fit one way....is this correct?...... and this is how they fit as per the 1979 Cadillac?........I'd be seeing if some other banjo hose can fit or if the locating edges on the caliper can be removed to allow a rear pointing banjo fitting and hose...................hope I'm not confusing all this.........lol........Andy Douglas.
  20. 1 point

    Mopar Flatheads On Mountain Highways

    Here is my '53 among the forest fires here in BC this week. I took this pic on Sunday evening. We have lots of hills, you just can't see them in the pic through all the smoke. You can also see the elevation gain I was talking about in my earlier post above. There is a river in the valley in this pic. Up and down that elevation every time I head out in the Windsor. My apologies for generalizing about Alberta drivers. I did say we have plenty of bad ones locally too. I get grumpy from too many trips down the hi-way doing the speed limit. Then being passed by someone at a much higher speed. Being local I know these roads very well. The rise in elevation, the drop in temperatures, the sudden hail, rain, and snow that can and does hit mountain passes every month of the year, is not understood by many. Carnage ensues all the time.
  21. 1 point
    55 Fargo

    Mopar Flatheads On Mountain Highways

    Nope im wrong it's 1st and 2nd and 3rd and 4th for high range by my manual
  22. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    1948 3 window business coupe

    you may be kicking a can of worms that should be left to die in the hot sun.....check with some of the local old car owners first to see if this would be a wise choice, I have no first hand knowledge of Illinois DMV but some states would lead to confiscation and destruction of misrepresented vehicle...especially if a vehicle ID tag has been changed or altered.
  23. 1 point
    A way to find out if it is the back wiring is the problem. At least this what I did. Find the wiring that is going to your front park lights and turn signals and see if they are working through them. I also had to ground them properly on the box of the truck. Getting almost to bare metal.
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point

    Stuck valve?

    Sounds like you're off and running. But do continue to check the head torque occasionally; In my case it usually take 3 times before all of them stop moving with a new head gasket. for future reference, most people just spray the gasket off of the engine, so that you don't get a bunch of the coating on the pistons and valves. Marty


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