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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/10/2017 in all areas

  1. I drilled,tapped, and installed a petcock to drain the oil from my full flow filter.
    5 points
  2. I thought I'd share my current project with everyone. I'm normally on the truck side, but my dad bought a 48 Desoto Custom 4 door a few years ago. We've been working on it VERY slowly mainly due to time constraints. The body has seen better days, the rockers were completely rusted out, and the drivers side of the car was vandalized in the 1970's (bricks were thrown at it). The sheet metal is pretty solid though, and the doors are rust free. When we bought it the engine was rebuilt in the late 70s, but they never fired it up. We got it running and drove it up and down the road. We went though the front end, resealed the rear axle, and rebuilt the brakes, so mechanically it is ready. Now all we have to complete is the dreaded rust repair and body work. I've never done anything this invasive on a car, but it wasn't too bad once you dive in. Over the 4th of July weekend, and last weekend I was able to get the rockers done on the passenger side of the car. It took a lot of time, but it is done. Don't laugh too hard, I'm not a welder or body guy. I'm just trying to make a nice driver. I'm ok with the results, so that's all that matters. Now I have one more side to do.... Pictures are below. I had to do a lot of other metal work under the car (body mounts and braces), the rear wheel well, and the front rocker/A pillar structure. A lot of it was rusted through and needed patches. It seems plenty strong now, and I think it will be good for another 50 years. I seam sealed and undercoated the inside of the rockers before welding the sill plates on. I'll try and post pictures every so often when I work on it but I can't promise it will be frequent.
    3 points
  3. I went to the Iola Old Car Show today, as a spectator. Couldn't swing a full weekend to enter the Ol' Dodge and hang out there. There weren't many Dodge trucks, but here are a few I saw... When I first saw this one I thought it was Todd B's "Pistol Pete" based on the color. But isn't he a '49 Todd? It seems to have a Ford drive train. "429" badge on the hood and a Ford steering column and wheel. Interesting scheme on this one... A nice Town Wagon A couple nice older models... (Yes, it's not a Dodge... it's a Plymouth) And a decent '57
    3 points
  4. Well, Keven is back!!! He bought my project and I could not think of a better person to tackle the job! Best of luck to you with the restoration! I'll check in from time to time. Paul
    2 points
  5. What is a crate engine? Something that bolts in or do you have to find new engine mounts, a suitable transmission, rear cross member, and all associated parts such as bell housing, pedal setup, shifter linkage, driveshaft, emergency brake, radiator, ETC.
    2 points
  6. LOL, I was beginning to wonder the same thing after 18 hrs! it was a blast seeing that part of the country again and spotting old cars / trucks on the journey and meeting Paul. Beautiful place Paul...... BTW, this truck at 116" WB is the max you can STUFF on a 12' "bobcat" trailer!
    2 points
  7. Looking forward to seeing more as this one comes off the back burner! But first, how bout some pics of the shop? How big, what amenities, features, etc...
    2 points
  8. I didn't realize that Oldsmobile made trucks back in the day... From 1919 And a couple of corn binders... I think this one has a different chassis under it. Looks a bit narrow. And one more nice Dodge
    2 points
  9. There isn't much information available on the MOPAR Auto Stop accessory hill holder offered in the early 1950's, so I thought I'd add a little more here. My Auto Stop was listed on Ebay a month ago and appeared complete. The seller accepted what I thought was a reasonable offer so I took a chance and bought it. It was all there, right down to the little envelope that included the installation pieces, missing only the driver instruction card. It even included an extra throttle switch for early V8 equipped cars and an extra gear shift lever switch. Think of it as a 6 volt line lock or roll control. It consists of a gear shift lever button (looks like a door bell button) with an armored cable, a control relay, a throttle linkage switch, and the 6 volt solenoid valve. The gear shift lever switch monetarily completes the circuit through the rear wheel brake solenoid valve and activates the control relay on the fire wall at the same time. The solenoid valve then remains closed until the accelerator pedal is depressed. When brake fluid is the locked under pressure to the rear wheels, a parallel fluid circuit with a ball check in the solenoid valve allows more fluid to enter the circuit if more pressure is needed to hold the car on a steep hill, or if you simply want to activate the Auto Stop before stopping completely. Now you can take your foot off the brake pedal and prepare for the up hill start. An over the center type switch is placed in the throttle linkage and the pressure of the throttle return spring on the linkage keeps it closed. The control relay is grounded through this throttle switch so when the gas pedal is pushed, pressure on the linkage is decreased and the throttle switch opens. The control relay de-activates and you're on your way. You, the driver, are required to have the clutch pedal out near the friction point, and bring the engine RPM up quickly to avoid rolling backward. I've been practicing this week and have just about mastered the technique. For some reason it feels counter-intuitive at first, but not for long. My biggest problem has been remembering to shift into low gear after I push the shift lever button to set the Auto Stop. It's hard for an old dog to master a new trick.
    1 point
  10. Well done Keven. It's good to see you 'back in the saddle'. I look forward to watching your build. How was Brent?... is he alright? it's gotta be at least 6 months since he bought another truck so I suspect that he was suffering withdrawal symptoms at the time!
    1 point
  11. I'm sure I don't know to whom or WHAT your referring too......... I sure have a craving for a banana
    1 point
  12. Good you are using an infrared thermometer - excellent diagnostic tool. If you continue to have problems - check the actual opening temperature of the thermostat. I have seen very few stats that open at the temp stated. I'd bet that your 180 stat is opening at 190 to 195 F. I have seen this time and again. Most stats are inaccurate, the only type Ive found reliable are Robert Shaw style stats, but I still test them anyway. How to check ? Pull the stat out; put it in a pan of water and heat it on a stove gradually while stirring, checking the temp with an accurate thermometer. I use laboratory mercury thermometers to check mine. You may be astounded at what you find. Good luck. After several irritating experiences when I was young, I now never install a stat without checking the opening temp.
    1 point
  13. Drain the oil and put your finger in the drain hole and feel for a layer of sludge. If there is a layer remove the pan and clean it out. I would also remove the side valve covers and clean that area of sludge too.
    1 point
  14. Call Dennis at DME Transmission Parts - 606 237 6648. I've purchased parts for two '36's and a '37 from him. He's had everything I've needed ( drive pinion, counter shaft, cluster gear, synchronizer assy, small parts, bearings, etc.). I also have a nice, but untested '37 transmission I bought 35 years ago and never used, but you'd probably rather rebuild yours.
    1 point
  15. Try Haggens 253-845-7020. I was told they might be a possible source.
    1 point
  16. Road trip! with B1B Keven, (center) to Whidbey Island, WA to meet Paul Hatfield (left)
    1 point
  17. Somebody had to do all the work!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    1 point
  18. bigger question is why Brent is in the picture? Congrats to all!
    1 point
  19. Almost, but the 265 will have a full flow oil filter as do some 251s If you are going to run an aluminum head, the gasket surface has to be right on specs.If you have a good machinist, follow his advice. Prices have escalated a lot, but your job will never get cheaper and a 265 in a 40 will be fun.
    1 point
  20. I have a couple of threads going here. It seems they are related. This one about the engine getting a little too warm for my liking, and another about possible fuel delivery. I addressed both it seems. A lean running engine runs hot too right? I found issues in my carb that I addressed. Which I suspect made it run lean under heavy load. I also pulled and flushed the cooling system, reassembled, and tested on the same hill again. Much better results. Engine stayed cool all the way up.
    1 point
  21. That's the plan. All the benefits of a 'modern trans' with the ergonomics of column shift. If it works, which I'm confident it will, I'll consider making a few more parts for a kit. Can't imagine too many people would be interested though. Leary
    1 point
  22. Thanks for the replies!
    1 point
  23. after too many years, I finally got my shop built and got to pull the 53 out of the pile of crud that slowly enveloped it and put it in the new shop. My plans are to be driving this gal next summer.
    1 point
  24. Hi Jerry, my parts book confirms it.... if I am reading it right, B1/2 F thru KM
    1 point
  25. " I was hoping to hear from other vintage Mopar owners with the L6, and their temperatures. " My 218 runs at 160 degrees usually , 165 - 170 if I am stuck in traffic . My thermostat is a 160 . My radiator is aluminum and my hood is vented . You mentioned that some engine work was recently done , if your engine is ' tight ' your temps might come down a little when the engine parts are broken in . Some members have brought their temps down a little with Water Wetter .
    1 point
  26. @Worden18 Thank you very much for the feedback. I was hoping to hear from other vintage Mopar owners with the L6, and their temperatures. I have yet to find anyone around my town with any old L6 experience. Nor even another L6 Mopar owner. So I come here to enquire about any little concern I have. I have been busting my butt at every free moment trying to get the car reliable since I bought it in May. Pretty soon I can get out to some cruises and car shows and meet other vintage Mopar owners. I am still working out all the little bugs. The car is getting better every day. I've had about at least 6-8 breakdowns, or nursed it home in the past 12 road tests. LOL. Big improvements lately tho, as I flush out all the issues. Everyone's help here is very much appreciated. - Keith
    1 point
  27. Just make sure the shop doesn't over pressurize it. Depending on your car it could either be an open 0 pressure system or 4-7 pounds. Don't let them blow it up using the pressure of a modern radiator.
    1 point
  28. A great improvement! Do another CT in a month just to see for fun.
    1 point
  29. Good point @Dodgeb4ya, lining up the rotor would have been a good way to do it too. As promised, before and after valve set Compression Test Results: Before Valve Job, Dry compression test results: 1 - 95 psi 2 - 70 psi 3- 95 psi 4 - 85 psi 5 - 85 psi 6 - 0 psi After Valve Job: 1. 100 psi 2. 100 psi 3. 105 psi 4. 105 psi 5. 105 psi 6. 95 psi
    1 point
  30. The only regret after a proper and thorough rebuild, would be selling the car. If you are planning to keep the vehicle that the engine goes in, do it right. If this is a pleasure car, driven for fun, not a daily commuter, it'll probably outlive you. Life is often measured by great memories. Decades from now you won't remember the $500 you saved today. You will remember all the great times you had in your reliable, fun, vintage car.
    1 point
  31. See he busted a knuckle.....builds character and the vocabulary.
    1 point
  32. I have repeated this story many times on this forum. Back in the day many of the unscrupulous repair shops along the highway would charge customers for a complete tune up but simply replace the throttle spring with one of lesser value. When done the customer would test drive the vehicle and comment how much better the vehicle accelerated because it took less pressure on the foot feed to get up to speed.
    1 point
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